Very good video excelente 😅

I have an actuator issue and my door is closed shut. How do I open the door? I tried pushing the cable but nothing happens. I guess that means the problem is not at the handle but at the actuator.

I have 520 f10, 2012, N47 engine. Pump in tank replaced, EKPM module replaced. Diagnostic just indicates the rail issue. JesterdayI disconect hoses from pump wirh additional batterz started the pump. After I get back hoses and started with no issue. It runs 15 minutes. I put in first gear then try to move it turns off and again cranks and eont start…

Great video😊

I got this, if this guy can perform this with one hand.

1:33 Important: buy the crank bolt and two sprocket bolts from the dealership. Reusing the existing bolts often has bad results.

how are the blinkers working? looked like they stopped when you were outside checking

28:48 the coolant resevoir can be pulled straight up without any clip damage.

This was extremely helpful, thank you. I have the same problem with my sequoia right now, smh..😓😩

Oscar, thanks for all the details about including the o-rings, how to torque the bolts and bleeding the brakes, etc. that was the only video that made me feel confident!

That extra connector is for the fog lights is you car is equipped with that.

Great vid

Thank you for the sound information. It worked

Oscar, is that a bad idler pulley squealing?

because of you I didn't have to pay a mechanic l did it myself on my 2002 tundra . Thank you, keep doing more videos please.

Thanks for the video...had a little bit of a hard time lining up the air filter box again...lol...just stayed patient ...good video

I strongly recommend using a 20 dollar ball joint separator from Harbor Freight. I you really need to use a hammer, use two. Place on against the knuckle where you intend to whack it and hold it there (against the knuckle), then use a second hammer and whack it against the hammer your holding against the knuckle or a or whatever. This way you’ll have less risk of damage to the parts your are hitting and you can better control the impacts. Again, the ball joint separator from Harbor Freight is much easier and quicker. The prongs are thin enough to CAREFULLY put it in place around the ball joint without tearing the boot. Using a pickle fork also works but kills the boot.

My passenger headlight goes out faster than the driver side. Am i maybe getting dirt on the bulb? Im wearing gloves

Useless Video when you cannot hold the camera etc. Waste of time

Pude hacerlo gracias a tu video.. thank you.. Silverado 2013!!

Hi, Do you happen to have the link where to pick up the new parts? Thanks

Cambio lado izquierdo, muy fácil.. lado derecho bien inaccesible…. Gracias por el tutoreal!

What tools are you using ? The impact gun size ?

What kind of car lift is that?

Gracias por el video fue muy bien explicado y estoy sumamente agradecido y no tengo conocimiento alguno sobre mecánica y complete el trabajo en menos de dos horas con todo el cuidado y súper asustado, pero siguiendo tus consejos lo logré y me ahorré la labor que es costosa, gracias nuevamente! Saludos desde Puerto Rico 🇵🇷

What kind of jack is that?

Great info. thanks so much

This is a 207 Mazda three with a 2.3 L. Coolant is leaking on the right side. You can see it just below some coolant hoses. When you start the vehicle, you can't detect where it's coming from. I clean this area out about two weeks ago and now there was a little pool of coolant there again today. It's on some kind of bracket or something. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for sharing the torque specs Oscar!

What is this part called? @ 00:18:31 Cannot find it on amazon or other parts stores.

How many miles should you change out belt on cobalt?

Absolutely awesome video. Thank you so much.

Okay guys...........😂 Had to bust ya chops a little bit. Thanks for the information though .

Thanks for the video! you saved the day! God bless you!

F criminals you have to take Many parts of the engine off . Thank so much. For the video I really appreciated. 👍

Oscar, thank you for the video. 2011 Mazda 3 2.0 My part was damaged in the exact same spot as yours. I recommend you guys buy the part, OEM part was only $75 shipped to me. I made the hose connections a little easier by disconnecting the hose from the coolant reservoir and waited until I had removed the part before disconnecting that hose.

Otherwise a great video !!

Shouldn't you only hand tighten the cam sprocket until you get the guides, chain and tensioner all installed and tight before you tighten the cam sprocket. Otherwise the sprockets are not going to be in sync with each other . The sprocket could be a half tooth advanced or retarded, whitch would throw off the timing .

...and a Bible verse to top it off. Nice!

Any update on that lost baby ?

if there’s no spark this is useless

2003 Z4 does the same thing only intermittently. Learn first to listen for the fuel pump activation (requires two people) on your specific BMW before you just fly off thinking this is the only solution…. Thank you for the insight and info 👍👍

I suspect this is what’s going on with my 2012 Mazda 3! Great video man! I’m gonna tackle it tomorrow. Is it essential to drain the coolant before hand??

Thank you for posting this video. I was able to do this job with the help of your video and another I found on KZbin. My Haynes Mazda repair manual does not cover this procedure and I do not have the Mazda repair manual so this video along with the other made it possible. I have many years experience of working on my own vehicles. So I took on the challenge and it was a "challenge of patience" for me. I took photos before I disassembled everything to help me remember. Removing the battery box/PCM and air intake was essential for me because I hate working in tight spaces. Having all the right tools such as a torque wrench, swivel socket extension, angled pliers, hose clamp removal tool and a magnetic grabbing tool was essential for me to do this job. I used the magnetic grabbing tool to help remove and re-install the four screws on the top of the coolant flange. I got the coolant flange off of Amazon for under $25. It arrived with the heat sensor loose so I had to tighten it down. This replacement part (mostly plastic) hopefully has the same strength/heat enduring qualities of the OEM. It was recommended in the other video to coat the rubber gasket with coolant which I did. Also, bleeding the air out of the system is necessary afterwards. With the part, bought tools and coolant I got the job done for around $125. Thank you again for posting!

I know this is not the vehicle I have a question on but you did videos on a Mazda 3 2 years ago I have a sound that sounded like I had something moving around in my oil pan but when I removed it there was nothing so do you have an idea what it could be . I have a 2008 Mazda 3 I sedan it has the 5 speed manual transmission.

Excellent video my friend- really informative. Thanks

No monitoring the temperature while filling the remaining fluid?

For a few more dollars. Duralast Gold is a better product. Good job. 👍🏻✌🏻

What tool is that that you used to take the bolt off at 1:26?

Bro you have saved me countless times when I’m working on my car and I get devastated !!! Keep posting videos man keep doing what your doing