I'm curious. Seen several tutorials. Most find fix issue. That is the fuse, short, bcn/ security. Im curious as to the surge that pops the mega fuses.

Useless

Fords are disposable junk these days. Do your maintenance and dump it after 100k

And now the new 5.0s have cylinder deactivation. Ain’t nobody safe.

Thank you! Thank you! We have been searching for a used Prius. So many rebuilts that say they have been certified by ICBC. We can move forward a little more confidently.

My 2015 Ford Exploder has the Service Advancetrac, ABS, traction lights on with Advancetrac shutdown. It happens intermittently and clears after shutoff and sits for a while. Did the wiggle sensor wires with lights and tones on and off with no change. Battery gave needing charge, alternator showed good at O'Reilly and Advance. I replaced battery and light came back on about 50 to 70 miles later. Turning left at a traffic light and braking the pedal shuttered like antilock and dash lit back up with tones. Advancetrac shutdown. Those auto stores computers may not have the ability to check everything.

I have a 2013 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. My thought is to change the coolant, transmission fluid and brake fluid at the 100,000 mark as I haven't done it yet. Can you kindly share your thoughts? Thanks

So 1st get a truck lift, then it's a cake walk

Great video buddy. As an electrician I need to know where you got your voltage tester

My ABS light is on as well as my park brake. Is one system connected to the other?

I have the same problem I need to bring you my car where are u

I have a 2006 ford escape. While driving it shut off with no signs of fuel or motor. My friend is a mecánic and we have tested everything and it wont turn on. Lights go on but no start. Any idea

Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6. My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start. Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home. Watched many videos. Checked: battery-it was ok, 1 year old Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good. Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on. With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again. Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found. Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side. Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start. Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured. Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.) He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board. I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems. I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode. Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems. Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.

We have a 2012 ram 1500 , it has the 6 speed transmission , it has a p0731 code and I believe a p0933 also but I replaced the transmission control solenoid and had it relearned and it is still doing the same thing feels like it only shift's once , doesn't feel like a slip I can't afford to take it to the shop again and I'm capable of installing parts myself but wish I knew exactly what to fix so I'm not throwing away more money

Good stuff!

Great job on the video, keep up the good work, do you by chance have a link to those wire/plug probes and connectors ?

Great video - If you're gonna do it, do it right. Amen. Now then, the OEM ESIM has the weight (rattles when you shake it), but for some reason, the Dorman replacement does not make the same rattle noise when you shake it. Perhaps, the weight is better seated? I am not sure, but there is definitely a difference in the construction of the parts despite the fact that many have eliminated their po456 code using the non-OEM replacement.

I have a Kia Sportage 2014. Shuts off while driving. No check engine light comes on. Battery alternator and started have been tested and they are good. What else do I need to do

These problems are from first Gen engines. Look at the Tundra V6 turbo. Almost all new engines especially 2016 and newer have something going on. It's just how engineers do Nowadays.

2010 F150, 3-bolted electrical connections & 3 starter bolts, 5hrs to re & re starter-the most difficult job in my 50yrs of wrenching! In my experience, getting the starter in & out was equally challenging! My starter had a nipple on the end, unlike the starter in the video.

Ford....Quality is Job # 1 Remember

Thank you for this video, my Ford Escape 2017 was dead, like no current (like if there was no battery in the car) nothing than 10 minutes it would start like nothing happened. It did that 2 times. Seems, it’s always the first fuse from the right. The part 782-1144 from NAPA Canada cost 14.46$ my garage changed it in less then 10 minutes. Having the part here I cannot see that it’s broken but the truck no longer has the problem. Time will tell but I'm confident that was the problem. Thank you again.

Thank you for this video!

How do I get to the plate and high current fuses? Remove air filter housing?

Can you please do a video on how you replaced the backup camera?

Hell yeah brother! I didn't know it was that easy to unlock them I got some new clamps and they were kicking my ass I watched your video and in seconds got them unlocked. Thanks 👍

What happens if you just force that lil detent to stay forward?

I have a 2014 ford escape 2.5 s class it will start for a little while then it will not start I have put a starter alternator and a new battery in it and it's still having the same issue is that the fews I need to change to fix the problem

Where did you buy that power probe? In that color?

Only applies to three wire sensors.

2017 2.7 130000 not issues yet and towing over capacity limit over 6 hr 1 way, but keep an eye in maintenance

At that mileage, most of this sounds like regular maintenance or things that could have been avoided with regular maintenance?

What about 07 Tahoe mine doing this now

This is the same symptom , of late with my ‘99 ram , diesel , anti-lock …..

This is a cake walk when you compare the same task on a 2015 Nissan Titan.

If you are mechanically inclined and are able to read reviews and item descriptions, you’ll be ok with some cheap parts. Know what you’re buying and you’ll be fine. For my obs I’ve bought tons of sensors and ignition shit from auto zone and some shops and I’ve had these things fail. Expensive “better parts”😂 shit I’ve had nothing but success with eBay parts, cheaper and I get to work on my own truck. Shops are good for certain things. Big issues but everything else, good luck to those that are willing to get scammed out of their money. Shops buy cheap parts and survive off the mark ups. People definitely should learn how to work on their own vehicles.

I'm having the same issue on my 2010 2500 HD. Traction control light comes on as well as the service trailer brakes. Would that be the same issue?

I’m having an issue it will go into everything except drive

Just picked up a '14 Prius V a couple of weeks ago, after my ancient Elantra was totaled by a Chevy Tahoe who's driver did something stupid. I owned 2 other Prius models (both Gen II) in the last 15 years... and it's so nice to return to a car that is so familiar. I am starting a sinking fund for the battery, which I'm expecting will eventually have issues in spite of a good care record (via Carfax), but for now... loving it!

This is a very common problem on the escape and the focus. Why is this fuse going out on all of them? Could this cause the car to shut off at speed on the highway because I read a number of reports of that happening to people?

This is precisely why i only buy vehicles with a Hemi V8 in them. The lil v6 motors can't be good for a full size truck or SUV.

Thank you! Had the same issue Nappa had the part too!

Thanks for this, after 2 hours of trying to get the top bolt out I measured two extensions to length you suggested and managed to get it out.

I have the same problem on my ford escape 2014 model

When programming the fobs to the BCM, do you need a PIN code?

Okay.... My 2012 Ford f150 was suffering the same issues with intermittent cranking over but not starting, and I checked the fuse slot number 27 and found exactly what you stated. I don't have a 5.0 liter though, it's a 3.6 but has the same exact problem as the 5 liter. Purchased a 20 amp fuse just like they sell in the relocation kit, and I relocated it myself to slot number 70 and all is working fine now. Thank you for posting your find and saving me some time and money.

Excellent explanation from start to finish! 🙏🏾

Most reliable, trouble-free car I've ever owned. 2008, 340k original batt

Combination meter I have issues in cold weather press power button without putting foot on gas open door flip lights 4 times the door light should come on and press the button again. Works almost every time. Lol. Better than huge car payments.

A Prius with low mileage have to look out for. That means it has been sitting and that’s bad for a hybrid battery.