Thank you 😊

Great video!!! Did you leave 3.25” inches of threads on both the front and rear to achieve the desired ride height, or is that measurement different?

I have the same calipers( black ones brinbo 6 cylinder ) , what size rotors did you use 150mm or 160mm

Hi, I'm Maurizio from Italy. I wanted to ask you 2 things: the first thing is if the car, at the end of all the work, gave you some message on the dashboard and the second is if when you finished the work you went to test the car at reduced speed. Thanks.

Do they talk the whole fcking time ??

The white post is to knock down high spots. They have instructions for a reason

Read instructions. Clean area w/ release agent. Let dry. Hold pull tab 10 seconds. Then let set 2-3 minutes OR MORE. Special note in instruction. “Allow glue to harden completely. May take several minutes depending on amount of glue.”

Badly engineered VAG crap

Красавчик! Все доходчиво

You should try doing a B12 chemtool piston soak and make a video. Low tension piston rings coking up and causing heavy oil consumption is pervasive with VAG engines and DI engines in general. Check out some of this guy's videos on doing those, one is a Touareg with VR6: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZK8Yqx6rbicgNk

Thanks for the video. I'm really curious what your rear jack point was?

Would this procedure also work on a 2014 base?

Thanks for sharing

👍

Absolutely fantastic video. There is no way I would've tried, let alone done this job without reviewing this great tutorial several times. As many have said in the comments, anyone attempting to take on this task will be grateful for Kevin taking the time to record and edit the journey that is this procedure. I bought the replacement diaphragm thinking that repairing the PCV valve in my 2008 Cayenne 3.6l V6 would be as straight forward as it is with the other versions of the Cayenne remove a cap and replace the diaphragm), and I was initially crushed when I finally realized where that disc lived (under the valve cover, in the rear on the passenger side). After watching this several times I dove in. In addition to the video, I learned a lot from the other comments and also from my own experience. Here area few items that may or may not have been covered by others or the video (especially since the video is about a 958, not the 957, which I have): 1. Allow MANY hours for the first disassembly. Once everything is removed, you will be able to more easily see where things should be and how to re-attach them, but it can be frustrating to get to some of the items when you have not done this before. case in point -- I made a mistake in the re-assembly that meant that I needed to remove the intake manifold for a second time. It only took me 2 hours, where the first time I did it was much, much longer. If you can allow yourself the time, it will cut down on your frustration. 2. Many of the items are in very tight quarters, making direct line of sight difficult -- especially during the disassembly. I bought an inexpensive endoscope on Amazon (get the one with its own screen, the one that feeds the image to your phone has terrible battery life) which allowed me to see into the nooks and crannies as I was going. Extremely helpful. 3. There is much said in the comments about the evil pipe (in the 957, it is black) that runs just below the intake manifold on the driver's side from around midway to about the end of the intake manifold. It's all true -- that thing is right in the way of two of the triple-square bolts on that side. It was super frustrating for me, especially since I didn't quite understand how it was held in place. Yes, there is a screw that is inexplicably attached from the underside of the manifold towards the rear end, and it HAS to be removed before you can move that damn pipe. The other connection on the pipe which becomes a million times more obvious after the intake manifold comes off is a flat bracket that is attached to/part of the pipe, around 5 or 6 inches toward the front of the car from that upside-down screw. You can't see the bracket before the manifold is removed because it is hidden by the solenoid, and also because it is tucked up to the underside of the intake manifold. It has two holes/slots in it that correspond to two screws in the underside of the intake manifold, so when it is described that you should "slide the pipe forward to release it" what is meant is that "forward" means towards the front of the car, and what will happen is that the bracket will be slid to the point where the holes in the bracket match up with the screws in the manifold, allowing pipe to drop down a little (you will need to push on it), giving you at least a slightly better path for removing the triple-square bolts in the middle and toward the rear. 4. Even more has been said about the "bridge" pipe between the upper fuel rail and the lower fuel rail. Some that have commented say that you only need to disconnect one end or the other, and others have said that the pipe must come out or it will be bent as you remove the intake manifold . I did it both ways, removing the pipe the first time I took off the manifold and detaching one end the next. I can say without a doubt that I should have completely removed it both times, as I did bend that hard line, which caused much grief later, and ultimately resulted in my having to replace that 5 inch long pipe at a cost of $59. I think that the reason that some have said that you can skip removing the whole pipe is because it is impossible (at least in my vehicle) to get at both ends of that pipe without removing the fuel pump and the two lines coming off the top of it. I also removed the fuel pressure sensor to give my fat fingers more room will loosening the bottom connection of that bridge pipe. It takes more time to remove all of those items, but for me it was just easier, and I lost any time savings because the pipe got bent. And another note about the fuel pump: on the 957 the Torx screws/bolts take a size 30 Torx wrench, not the size 27 mentioned for the 958. 5. Last, as others have mentioned, hoses may very well break in your hands as you remove them. As soon as I tried to take off the crankcase breather hose (one of the first steps :) it split in two. Same thing with the small, corrugated hose that goes from the solenoid to the plastic device at the front of the manifold. While it is not directly related to this repair, the brake booster pump lines are at the rear of the engine compartment. They are fairly hard plastic, and the ends will likely have split where they were pushed onto the barbed fittings, causing a vacuum leak. And while the valve cover gasket looked fine (I did plan on replacing it), the moment that I tried to pry some of it out of its groove it snapped, showing how dried out it had become. You can save yourself some time by ordering replacements for the hoses and gaskets before you head into this job. All of the above being said, it was well worth the struggle of this doing this job. In addition to the huge savings on labor, it was really satisfying to know that several nagging issues with this car were solved. I hope your repair goes smoothly!

Thanks Kevin!

New toy???

So I changed the battery after still having the original for 8 years. It was working fine. I decided to switch the battery because the voltage was going up to 14.3 or 14.4 and I thought that was kind of high and maybe the alternator is working to hard. After the battery change the voltage it is the same. Is that normal? I was hoping for the voltage to drop into the 13s. Is it because I didn't "register" the battery through software?

Thank you!

Thanks for sharing!

It's a perfect video, I just have a problem to get those 2 bottom bolt off

Thanks for sharing

Very clear video. Thank you.

You focused on the old jack stand teeth. They aren't the problem. The problem is the catch mechanism which engages the teeth. It is held in place by a 2mm set screw. That's the issue.

If you are leaving the jack under the vehicle after lifting it for added safety, something is wrong. That is the whole point of using jack stands. Never rely on the jack. So, just get 4 jack stands.

I bought 4 and the first thing I did was to spend 20 minutes removing all labels. Goo remover is needed to get any left over sticky stuff off. The stands look better without all the advertisements.

It’s a T27 but yeah good video

Only do this when the heads are cold, and nickel anti seize on the spark plug threads would be warranted. Thanks for the video!

Thank you, great video, nice and clear!

Great video. Wish I had the time to do this because the pcv valve on my Cayenne 958 just went and now about to pay the dealer 3k to replace it

Great video! I was able to knock out front and back brakes courtesy of your great instructions. My first brake job and it really went smoothly thanks to this video. I also swapped the brake wear sensors but had a wear indicator for the front show up about 4 weeks later. I inspected and, of course, found the pads were just fine so I replaced the sensor. The reset procedure (ignition on, press, press, hold, hold, hold) kept coming back with "Unsuccessful" VERY FRUSTRATING! But I found the magic fix on a BMW video. Now, when I jack the car up to work on the front, I chock and set the parking brake for the rear. But, YOU CANNOT RESET THE FRONT BRAKE WEAR SENSOR IF THE PARKING BRAKE IS ON! I shut off the parking brake, tried the reset procedure again, and it cleared immediately. Just an interesting note for those that set the parking brake for a little added security when working off jackstands. Thanks again, man. You saved me big bucks and I learned something! Win-win!

Saw a few requests and I cannot find the analysis. All I can say is that I did the change 4years and roughly 40k miles ago and there has not even been a one sniff of the issue coming up again. In retrospect, what I was experiencing 4 yrs ago was noticeable enough where anyone would think something was wrong, but was not totally impaired. I never did the Blackstone test again, but given that is is a PITA to change the fluid (as I get older) I will just wait until I see issues again. It has 95K miles on it now and has been used a few times to tow a track car as well as 1 time , (yeah, just once my wife allowed me), to do some off-roading. IMHO, try the transfer case fluid change fiesta dn decide from there.

I'm also leaking at the same spot

I had a terrible experience changing the oil in my 11 countryman. I pulled out my filter and there was a spring and another plastic valve looking thing with a spring. None of the videos I watched had these springs. The plastic one popped into the filter, and i tried to put the other spring over it; but, I could not the cover down with out cross treading it. Then I decide to to just leave out the "spring" and just put it back in with that other plastic spring thing. While tightening it down, the 27mm socket popped off and disappeared into the engine. I could not find it. So tightened the the cover down best I could with my hand. Not good enough...oil leaked and I was about to get towed, when I was able to find the 27mm socket and tighten down the cover. I did leave the spring out- i dont know about that-- but none of the videos had anyone messing around with springs!!!

Hey question, do you have a video showing you how to replace the same switch for a 2009 Cayenne? If you do, could you please tag me in it. Thanks

Please when show me this video whose talk Arabic.

After they changed my battery the only thing that comes on in my car are the headlights and the interior lights 🤦🏾‍♂️ I have no idea what they’ve done to my car

Bro, advice please. Anyone I pulled my 2014 cayenne into a Firestone tire to have the battery changed. Woulda done it myself but because of the location & the fact I don’t have tools I went with the professional. That was on a Friday and we are into Sunday and they still can’t get my car to start after changing the battery

No. Oil additive is a scam.

No really good information here.

Try oil extractor next time. It saves A LOT of time :)

I can’t seem to delete the brake sensor code on my countryman. When I delete using a scan tool, I hear a click, then it comes back. I believe the calipers are sticking, too.

Thank you. Great video. Just started with my 2012 mini cooper S.

Wow. What a pain in the ass. Just pulled the filter on this one and it looks like all the quick lube places agreed. (Factory filter on a 77k mile car.)

Gracias por la información visual, y por la información técnica. I’m so grateful for you information. Ig it the same !👍

I have one and I used Mobil 1 0w40 and the car sounded weird for some reason, any ideas on why that might happen ?

To much work. Not needed.

It had been so long since I changed the battery I forgot how to do it! My battery made it six years! About two years too long it seems.

It’s the same for the 957 3.6 V6. Thanks for your video