LowRider v3 CNC - cutting & assembly of base cabinets!

My very first try at making cabinets was successful, due in large part to my beloved LowRider v3 CNC, a mostly printed CNC that you can make for yourself using free plans and files from V1 Engineering.
Specs for the Base Kitchen Cabinets: 17 in. W x 24 in. D x 26.75 in. H (15.36 mm plywood) - watch the video for speeds and feeds!
Links:
Free plans for LowRider DIY CNC: docs.v1e.com/l...
Jackpot CNC Controller I use on my LowRider: www.v1e.com/pr...
FluidNC firmware I use on the Jackpot: wiki.fluidnc.com/
V1E Theme for FluidNC WebUI v3: forum.v1e.com/...
FluidDial firmware I use on the Pendant: wiki.fluidnc.co...
My build log for my LowRider v3: forum.v1e.com/...
My build log for my FluidDial pendant: forum.v1e.com/...
Printed Cabinet Knob I found and used: www.printables...
My Print-in-place Cabinet Door Hinge, with option for M3 screw as a hinge pin: www.printables...
Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes: www.printables...
View all my Design8Studio models and remixes on Printables: www.printables...
My PayPal tip jar: paypal.me/desi...
*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

[@theaustindude]

How long did it take to cut the parts for the two carcasses?

[@design8studio]

It's been a while so I don't remember exactly, but it was not bad. With new LowRider v4 the depth of cut can be even deeper for a faster cut and completion sooner.

[@kevinhoskins2142]

I am in the process of building a 2ft x 4ft or 3ft x 3ft MPCNC Primo. Please let me know the type of tubing you are using in your Low Rider and where you sourced it. I have found 1” EMT tubing at Home Depot. Is that tubing sufficient, or should I consider something else? Thanks. God bless.

[@design8studio]

The LowRider in the video here has 1" stainless steel tubes, and it's been so long since I bought them I cannot remember if they are DOM (drawn over mandrel) or laser welded. They are stiff and strong. After I bought them, came the pandemic and the hyper inflation, and now they are quite pricey. At the sizes you mentioned, you should consider switching from MPCNC Primo to the LowRider, especially for the option with a 4' span. Here's a quote from the Primo docs re. size: "All axes can be any length you prefer, anything over ~3′ (1M) would be best to start with a LowRider CNC, of course smaller is better. The kit comes with enough belt for up to 48″ of total outer X and Y axis dimensions (eg 24″x24″, 36″x12″ or any other combination)."

[@TylerDouglas100]

@@design8studiohey Doug! I am currently in the process of building a V3 but have yet to buy the EMT. Do you think it’s worth going with the 1 inch versus the 3/4” recommended size? If so, why?

[@design8studio]

@@TylerDouglas100 The general rule with EMT is the bigger it is, the stronger and more rigid it is. In other words, the better it is for CNC. The 1" OD would be significantly better than 3/4" OD - *but remember, EMT is sold based on Inside Diameter (ID) while the LowRider designs are concerned with Outside Diameter.* The LR4 steps up to 1" (ID) which in millimeters is 25.4, yet it has an outside diameter of 29.5. If memory serves, the LowRider v3 has an option of printed braces that can accept 1 inch (25.4 mm) *outside diameter.* My LR3 has that. It's a great machine! By me upgrading to LR4, I'm going from 25.4 mm (OD) stainless steel tubes (on LR3) to 29.5 (OD) galvanized steel EMT tubes (sold as 1" ID) (on LR4), and it is substantially stiffer.

[@design8studio]

@@TylerDouglas100 Also, some of the question of tube diameter is affected by how long your X gantry is planned to be. For a full-sheet capable machine, it matters more to go with the biggest tube you can get in the design. For a much shorter gantry, it does not matter quite as much.

[@TylerDouglas100]

@@design8studiook awesome that’s what I figured. I assume the LR3 will be upgradable to the LR4? If so, perhaps I should just wait? Rather than building twice as I’m in no hurry.