If you take it to a repair shop they would likely get a factory coil (if available) that costs ball park of $50 where as an aftermarket coil runs roughly $20. The labor should be about .5 hours depending on their rate. So if they used aftermarket and charge $60/hr, it’d cost around $50. If they used factory coil it would be $80+ in my opinion. Some shops charge upwards of $100/hr

Thanks for the view! Yeah I agree. It’s definitely not an easy fix. I do t think they could make it easier given the blade control and rear wheel drive. After doing a bunch, it does get easier. But not my fav thing to do. Haha

I would pull off the old carb first. 95% of the time it can be cleaned, plus the original carbs are always better than aftermarket. Here’s a link to a similar model that I pulled off and cleaned. Mainly the bowl, main jet, emulsion tube and the pilot jet that’s in the plastic piece on top of the carb. Check your bowl gasket and drain plug gasket for cracks. I rarely replace carbs, only if they have deteriorated or they physically broke

After the swap?

Can’t argue with that

Negative. Sometimes I do if the plug looks old or if it looks very black. 99% of the time, spark plugs are fine. Every once in a while they are the issue. I’ve had spark plugs that were 50 years old still work, so the likelihood of a 5-10 year old plug being an issue is rare. I usually clean it tip with a torch and wire brush.

Haha wouldn’t surprise me

Are you sure that’s the problem? Could be a grounding issue. Check all the wires and attachments over again.

There is a tool for it but I don’t have it haha. I’m not gonna lie, my hands were cramping by the time I got all the spring tight enough to get it inside the plastic spool.

Lefty loosey (counter clockwise) but make sure to block the piston from turning as well when taking the clutch off.

Thanks, I blocked the piston but the t15 will not budge. Any idea what might be the issue?

@@wesbrown5708there’s an arrow showing the direction to spin the clutch I used a wrench on the square part of the clutch and started turning in the direction of the arrow while holding the trimmer head tightly

@@SHONEY21Z I meant the t15. I blocked the piston but still cannot get it to budge. Any idea what might be the issue?

Hmm. It’s probably just very tight. It’s scary to turn but as long as the t15 is seated well and a lot of downforce it shouldn’t strip. It takes a lot of force to crack the bolt but then it comes out easy. A long t15 bit on an impact would probably break it open easier but if it slips it strips. That’s my best suggestion just to use the handle and turn pretty hard with down pressure. Hard to hold the head and the tool at the same time but it should loosen.

I know. Didn’t know it until I went back to do the editing. Basically placed the rolled up spring into the white plastic pulley

I remembered but I’m at an amusement park today. I may be able to check it out but won’t have much time.

@@SHONEY21Z ok if u can

With a little magic. The carriage bolt needs to be totally seated. And carefully place the cable holder onto the bolt to not push the bolt south of the hole. Once I get the holder far enough over the bolt I’ll grab the tip of the bolt with a needle nose and pull towards me while pushing yhe cable holder on. Even if the carriage bolt unseats, then I’ll just twist it until it seats again and then apply pressure to the cable holder as I install the nut. I know that sounds like a lot, but I haven’t found a better way other than taking more stuff apart.

Thanks a bunch man I got it!🤘. Thanks for the video also

No problem. Thanks for watching

I replied over on that video

Leaking bar oil is common. Some leak more than others. I recommend not storing it for about 24 hours after use because that’s when it will leak the most. I always have a piece of cardboard or ragging my saws because the all leak at least a little. Rather too much oil than not enough.

@@SHONEY21Z is a leak while running common with the saw. Cause it runs then after about 3 minutes. It starts leaking pretty bad. Just at idol

@@SHONEY21Z I have an old Homelite 12 that no longer leaks when stored- I turn it so that the bar is upward. (smile) Mike

I probably should’ve but I was able to salvage it and make a few bucks but after a lot of work. The welding on the deck by the chute is rather easy, I’ve done dozens of them.

Is the screw spinning or is the motor spinning?

@@SHONEY21Z just spinning

Are you sure it’s a T15? Some ppl say their trimmer had a Phillips screws. If it is torx, are you sure the screw isn’t stripped? If it’s unscrewed but never came out, that’s because the screw is built into the clutch drum and you just need to pull it off. And finally, make sure you have something blocking the piston or the piston will just go up and down as you turn the screw

I’m not 100% sure of the model number since it was in and out of the shop in a day or two but doing research, I’d say it’s one of these models. 51944 51945 51946 51947 51948 51952 51954 51955 51956 51957 51958 51972 51974 51975 51976 51977 51978 51998 51984 51985 51986 51992

Good question Richard. I’m not saying you shouldn’t do it, you absolutely can. However, I’ve rebuilt 100s of that’s carbs and rarely do I see a bad needle. If the carb was pretty gummed up, it’d be easier to replace the needle than to clean it. But both are normal practice. It’s the rubber and gaskets that go bad long before the needle. I’ve replaced both the lever and needle, but in this case, the carb looked pretty good. Great observation tho!

Check out the linked video, it is much more in depth. You’ll find it much more useful

Glad it helped you out! Thanks for the feedback!

As a small engine hobbyist, I can’t argue with this. String trimmers are very finicky. I like my gas powered equipment but string trimmers always seem to be a problem. Buy stihl/echo.

Thank you sir! Was a lot of work. But I hope I find time to do more of them.

Yeah. The fuel screen was full of fine dirty and fuel that started to gel. The gaskets weren’t horrible and could’ve been put back in but may go bad in the next 1-2 years. New gaskets and should be good for another 4-5 years, for only $6 more.

Thanks for the feedback!

I’m not too familiar but I’ve seen a couple of his videos, very knowledgeable. My top small engine repair channels I tend to watch the most are donyboy, taryl fixes all, and chickanic.

@@SHONEY21Z ok Ken has a live stream every Saturday evening at 2pm est talking small engines Micks mowers ,Steve small engine saloon,James Condon Eliminator performance (Wayne),just to mention a few is on the LIVE on a regular basis. I'm like u I like Taryl,Chickanic, Donyboy,doublewide6,steves small engine saloon etc. But anyways stop by every Saturday evening at 2pm- 4pm We really have a good time talking small engines and whatever else comes up. Taryl has been on several times as Chickanic use to be a regular Hope to see u there. Take care mate and thanks for sharing ur videos and knowledge

Thanks! Yeah I’ll check it out. How do they get on the show?

@@SHONEY21Z Ken puts out a link in the chat and u just click on the link and he will let u come up. I think Ken can have 10 people up at 1 time. It's neat. Hope to see u there when u have time

@@SHONEY21Z Ken is a walking encyclopedia on small engines if u ever need any help on anything. He loves helping people out. I think u will enjoy it!!!

I appreciate that!

Thank you sir. I’m still leaning how to edit properly and get better angles and lighting. But I hope to grow the channel and continue making content. I’m in the northeast US. How about you?

@@SHONEY21Z northcarolina here 60 miles north of Charlotte NC. BRUSHY MOUNTAIN area. Gods country

Love it down there

Thank you! Cheers!

You're welcome!

I fixed everything, including replacing the rear wheel, welding the deck at the chute, new blade, pull cord assembly,air filter, oil, etc. for about $70. After all that I found the sump gasket to be leaking and had to pull the engine apart to replace it. I messaged the seller and stated I wish I knew it had a major oil leak before buying and they offered a $50 refund. So add in another $10 for the gasket and I was in a total of $120. Sold it for $200. Wasn’t worth the time to only make $80. Wins some, lose some.

good advice! thanks for commenting! check out my other videos as well

Sorry about that. Didn’t know how to edit back then. Hope you got some value anywsy

Cool! Thanks for the info!

I couldn’t agree more! I tell ppl that all the time

@@SHONEY21Z Legit (and embarrassing) story: I went to give my '99 Toro Recycler its first oil change (@8 years old 😳). I realized I was out of 30 weight. So I went to O'Reilly's to get oil. Like an idiot, I put the dipstick back in. While I was gone, my wife got bored and mowed (most of) our 15,000 sq.ft. lawn (with no oil in the crankcase). It seized up tight before she finished of course and was smoking hot🔥. Last she heard from me was "Honey I'm going outside to change the oil in the push mower". So she didn't have reason to check the oil level - just gas. I got home, cried a bit, then waited for it to cool off a few hours. Filled it with oil and it started right up (as it always has). That was 17 years ago. I gave it one more oil change a few years back. So two oil and air changes and 2 sets of wheels in 25 years. Still the original drive belt. Still the original spark plug. I'm so impressed. Made in USA of course. It runs strong and quiet. Personal Pace mechanism runs as new. Great videos by the way. Keep on wrenchin'. 👍🏻

@@cobra-he9xj haha that’s hilarious. I always refill the oil as soon as I drain it and never put the dipstick back in without oil. For that same reason, I’m afraid to forget lol. That’s amazing it didn’t blow up fully. I watched project farm run old brings with no oil to see how long they’d last, it was surprisingly pretty long before they seized. I’ve gotten mowers in for service and went to change the oil it it came out in clumps. Like tar. Idk how they didn’t blow up. Thanks for sharing

Is everything together but the cord all the way out? If so then you are ready to start winding up the spring. Pull the cord out from the inside of the cover. There’s a groove in the white pulley, lock the cord in that groove and start winding the pulley clockwise about 5-6 times. Then let go of the pulley and it should retract the cord

You’re right prob not 15-20 lbs. more in the 5-10lbs range. But the weight does matter, over a course of an hour when making a lot of turns it weighs on your arms. Not everyone’s 30 years old and healthy. Most ppl that bring mowers with the starter report that they haven’t used the starter in years. So why carry the weight around? Thanks for commenting. I like starting conversation!

@@SHONEY21Z Hmmm, that would mean the electric start would come in handy.

And the batteries last 2-3 years and they never replace them.

@@SHONEY21Z you make absolutely no sense whatsoever. If you're too old and weak to push down on the handle to make a turn, then you're probably not strong enough to pull start the machine.

😂 pull the cord 1 or two times vs turning the mower around 100 times in a yard. I’ll gladly pull it 1 times vs moving extra weight around for an hour. What if you bought it second hand and don’t want the electric start?

Thanks 👍

Yeah they are fantastic

This fuel line and diaphragm broke apart in my hands. I keep them in stock, a pack of 10 diaphragms are $5

This mower is the personal pace rear wheel drive. The speed is controlled by how fast you walk. There is a cable that controls drive. Do you need that cable?

@@SHONEY21Z I am wondering how to control the mower engine RPM ?? The cable seems to be O.K. for now. Thanks for your time Sir. v

Are the rpms high or low?

@@SHONEY21Z JUST idealing now.

It’s supposed to stay at a constant 3200 rpms

Yw thanks for commenting!

I’m sorry to hear that.😕 Thanks for watching and supporting the channel.

What are you having trouble with?

​@SHONEY21Z I installed a new key mine looked just like the one you have here. I'm still having the kick back issue ?

@@rickster2929I would look at the valves then. May have a bent valve or bent crank rod depending on how bad of a hit the motor took when the key was sheared. Take the exhaust off and look at the valves under the access Cover. Check valve clearance and if they move up and down when spinning the motor.

@@SHONEY21Z thanks

Agreed. I find that white lithium works pretty well without getting too gummed up. The factory grease is fine but that gets sticky eventually too. Chain lube is a good idea.

Haha basically

Exactly. Very thin. And then get a little rust under the paint and it’s shot in no time. Some can be rescued but that’s if you have more time than money. Thanks for sharing

I’ll check it out. Thanks

thanks!

🫡