i would have replaced the water pump ( or at least a refurbish with the impellor machined flat ).

Not sure if it's easier to replace the bolts with studs and nuts ?

Hi there, really enjoy your videos, one question, your hydraulic jacks, where did you get them from, make and price if that’s ok, they look very useful Thank you

Did u upgrade the water pump? Lots of engines ruined because of lack of circulation

Gee, even rusty brackets and corrosion on alternator, you must be in the UK

Good job.

Great video of one of my favourite areas of Scotland. Wonder if my Stag would make the trip from Northants. Blackberry whisky sounds amazing

Run the brush in the threads to unscrew the thread, u just push the dirt down in the hole

U have beautifully polished valve covers !!!! And utterly rusty bolts I wouldn't even deign to b thrown in the bin...

I've had that inlet manifold off a zillion times in the 31 years/over 300,000 kms I have had my car. I have never had a problem with those front water passges. The have little flow, they are only a "highest point" air bleed. All the real flow is through the rear water passage. Rather than just clean the threads in the head, bite the bullet and fit heli coils. Obviously be very careful re depth. I did mine first year I had it, never regret it, it makes it so much easier, and you'll never have that "last bolt turns too easily/stripped". Like the bloke who invented the rear view mirror. Since that day, he has never looked back. :-)

Good job well done, Hope all goes well now. Bob

you can't beat Trevor and the team at Faversham Classics

Well done mate 😊

Any chance looking at wiper motor speeds and auto parking ? Richard Warren

Jiggle pin should be at the top of the stat, not down the bottom. 🙂 I have never had the Thermostat housing bolts snap off (or even be tight) and have a few inlet manifolds here, the ridiculous head studs are the worst ones for that. As far as stat housing, on mine I don't have the hot air intake duct (pointless here, it doesn't get cold enough), so I have had (for 30 years) a Ford small block V8 stat housing, as it allows the use of a straight (Gates) hose that is very common here. Keep it simple. Early on I also put helicoils into all 12 of the inlet manifold bolts mating threads in the heads. As the manifold lines up, it often puts side loading on the threads, and soft alloy easy to strip or damage. ALWAYS the last one. Wheras SS helicoils make them impossible to damage/far better piece of mind/ a lot more secure. I have stripped half a dozen Stag engines, (and always maintained mine) and mine initially (31 years ago, I bought mine Feb 1993) took a week with injecting penetrene etc down the sides of the head studs, let it sit/lock nuts to get them out. None snapped off luckily. They are a ridiculous idea, they have a ridiculously optimistic "screwdriver slot" in the end which is only good for assembly. There are various locking tools, but if they are stuck, none work. There are jigs for hydraulic jacks that pull the heads off over the studs etc etc etc. The usual "get heavy with them" is to weld nuts on, then get them off, but they can snap. I had to cut one as it was stuck for good, but that head was corroded beyond usable, just wanted the block and the fittings from the head. The second my studs were out, I never used them ever again. I went and bought high tensile socket head (allen) bolts, $5 each in 1993. Best 50 bucks I ever spent. In the 31 years and 330,000 km since, the socket head bolts ALWAYS come out easily, it just isn't an issue. The factory should have done that. Why keep the head studs when they CAN be a problem (usually ARE), when you can use headed bolts that NEVER are??? I would never put a torch anywhere near an assembled engine like that. That open flame near flammable stuff around it............ not a good idea to me. What I WOULD have tried was to stick arc welder earth to manifold, tap my arc welder electrode on the end of the stud and have it tac to it............. get very hot - disconnect the earth strap. If that didn't loosen it, then I would remove the inlet manifold. Put the stud into my enormous Dawn bench vise, and then just "unscrew the manifold from the stud". I have never known that to fail with things of that size. Maybe try that "stud in the vice" before you go to the "shop" seeing you have the manifold out anyway. Good luck.

I Remember working on stags years ago they notorious for water problems, the worst thing was the head gaskets. You have to take all the head stud’s out of the block before you can get the head off not easy at all. Your bolt is quite easy,you should try tapping the end with a hammer drill out the middle with easy outs should come out,plenty of heat and shocking the bolt needs hitting harder and sharp blows .

my god this is pathetic, get someone that knows what there doing, because your clueless

WD40 is NOT an ease out product. A 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid is best. Also it's not sheered, it's sheared. The clamp on your carburettor overflow is NOT the correct type for a fuel hose.

You need to heat the bolt - not the housing. And heat it to read hot. It's expansion is what will free it. Welding a nut on also heats the bolt. Using a center punch on a broken bolt does not usually give you a central hole. Use a die grinder tool in a Dremel (or similar) to give a good central landing spot for your drill. Easy to fine tune. The size extractor you were trying to use would just have broken off if it had actually threaded. If you can get a central small drill through the bolt then drill with largest size that does not destroy threads. And go right through the bolt - this weakens the hold. Will then extract easily - with the bigger extractor. Make sure you have a good quality extractor set - cheap ones are not even good as paper weights.

You could eat off that engine bay! 👍

You should have avoided the drill, and put more heat on the casing, then quench with cold water. Reapply the heat then try again with the mole grips. If that doesn't work, weld a nut to the stud with a mig welder. The heat from the mig and a bit of torque should move it. Reassemble using stainless studs with copper grease. Not bolts.

good grief , thats as easy as stud removal ever gets ,,, 1 your using the wrong part of the torch flame 2 cut a hole in a bit of plate and let the stud stick through , then heat it , not warm it , 3 let it cool and oil it , repeat twice , third time try turning the stud out with the vise grips ,,, failing that a drop of weld from a stick welder would get the heat up , its simply not warm enough.the heat and cool cycle expands the stud then relaxes it , this breaks the rust down , all it takes is practice and patience.

Instead of easing oil or WD40 try a 50/50 mixture of ATF & acetone. There's a high risk of melting the alloy with too much heat.

I bought an induction heating device for this problem. Safer than gas for tight access like this. Postet this before you get the gas out!

If there's enough thread left on the bolt? Try locking 2 nuts together.

Hi boys at Faversham will get you going again was nice to drive my stag yesterday down in Hythe

Good effort Sir. I'm struggling with the distributor being stuck solid on my Stag so know the pain.

31 years with a Stag, 330,000 kms, and have removed the block drain plugs only once, when I had the engine out. . I usually flush without removing them. Remove the thermostat housing, remove thermostat, and there are enough hoses you can flush from either end to get everything old out. Threads lubricated whenever I strip anything, so no horrors on mine removing bolts. Everyone "what about the silt/dirt/flakes??" When I HAVE removed plugs, nothing came out except fluid, so...... Obviously with heads off can suck water out of block galleries with syringes if doing any major work. Again, no deposits in there. I am very lucky here in that our water is very "soft", so very little minerals in it. So a little bit remaining is no drama. I always use "concentrate", so use distilled water anyway, but after flush and then blowing out hoses from either end, gets enough flush water out. First time I undo inlet manifold, make all threads on heads for manifold helicoils. The soft ally is just a hassle/helicoils means 30 odd years, never a crossed thread. simple to do. I have had my fair share removing those ridiculous head studs. Screwdriver slots to undo them? Pfft, dreamers. I have had "junk/spares" engines that they just would not come off, but have managed to get most off. First time I removed mine (took a week, penetrene down stud shafts/welded nuts onto some of the studs) I replaced the stupid studs with high tensile socket head bolts. A smear of never seize, and my heads have always come off easily. It is the best money you will ever spend on a Stag or TR7/Dolomite. I have never had that air lock thing. Always use a "jiggle pin" stat, and squeeze the top rad hose to suck it through the jiggle pin.

You should really flush the block and radiator separately. With your method any sediment from the block will now be in the radiator. You have just flushed any muck from the block into the radiator, it will either stay there or go back into the block when you run the engine.

Hi there. Having had a Stag way back & fully rebuilding a poorly engine I watched your video with interest. At present still gullible I am restoring a TVR Chimaera 450 on my channel. I digress. Luckily i have a fully equiped machine shop so would take off the thermostat housing & set it up on the milling machine. Then using the digital readout , find exact centre of the broken bolt. Then creap up in small sizes drill out the broken stud. Using reverse flute drills. Then when the metal gets weaker with size the stud will extract itself. Another way is with stud extractors, but not had 100% success with that method. I take it you do not have the equipment to do this job. But you should have a machine shop near you that will easily do the task for you. Hope it all works out. Given you a sub. Steve.

Hi just found your great channel. Bought a MK II last autumn and slowly going through the car as very limited service history. Generally the car is in very good condition. Done plugs, set points, changed air filter and repainted housing. The near side clip is a nightmare to get back on! Oil change next so your video was very timely. Done rear brakes, now on front brakes. Callipers seem to be seized so replacing with new. Your rocker covers look amazing, are they new or what? Hardly driven the car yet as brakes were so poor, I now know why. All the best Helen in Nottingham.

Take a ride down to the Greatstone Fish bar, amazing food, and the Boathouse fisheries at St Marys Bay does fish and chips to order. just a happy customer!!

Nice job and a good result. Good luck with the Grandson working on the Stag, I've done this with my 14 year old Grandson, must get them up to speed to take the classic's on when I can't drive any more!!!! All the best Bob

Good luck with that bolt. It's happened to all of us 👍

Note that an 11/16 socket is exactly the right size to remove the plug in the bottom of the float chamber. Just push it down over the locking lugs, it pushes them all in evenly and you can pull the plug out (a flat bladed screwdriver also helps if the O ring is a bit sticky).

Re: the float heights - I believe from other videos that these are set ignoring the thickness of the gasket. And no-one seems to consider the fact that the carbs. are mounted on a slope, so only the part of the float furthest from the pivot has any effect on the level of petrol in the float chamber.

My heart goes out to you, I've been here before with similar issues, the heart sinks. Take your time, it won't be a quick job sadly.

That sound is awesome. ❤❤❤

Real. Life experience, happened to me too. , better at home than on the A38 , or any layby ,

Happened to me. Ended up fitting new inlet, as I tried to drill it out still fitted and messed up.I would recommend that you remove inlet to drill it out.

Fantastic, I’ve loaded my Stag with stuff before, but you win hands down this time. I think yours is the Tardis!!!! Well done that man. All the best Bob

Love the aerial footage. Never seen your stag with the hardtop on. Some great locations to open up a stag. Cheers

That’s a great idea having a drone some lovely shots of the Stag and surrounding areas. Nice new video plan look forward to more.Bob

kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5WtpZx4mbSeqaM&start_radio=1

Nirth Downs are Kent and Surrey, South Downs are in Sussex. Great to see Stone Street and surrounding area again. I grew up in Canterbury and got very familiar with all the places in this video.

Hi thanks for the video hot in June I’m thinking.???

Eh! You’ve shown nothing other than over stressing the nut. Have you checked the end float in the hub bearing first?

Great car, I regret selling my R reg back in the 90's, but my current plaything, a1999 R129 SL320, is a far better GT.

While watching on me lappy...my dog decided he needed to give the gulls what for...I look him in the eye and said "they can't bloody hear you dog as they are in the UK!" Nice chippy and great seaside eating.

Hopefully over a few months, or you may not get back in the Stag so easily!!!! Good job Bob