Once the cover is on we can start building the trailer to tow the boat out on.

There's a bit more work that needs to be completed first. The back of the boat must be rebuilt so once that is complete I can start living on the boat.

I'm using oil stones, whetstones are actually faster for sharpening technically but also wear out faster from what I know. I'm using white oil but I've seen shipwrights even use WD40 spray oil to sharpen their edges. They work equally well I guess, I've just started with oil stones and they do the trick for me.

I'll do my best to try and post videos throughout the Winter. Hopefully we can get the trailer built which means we can begin repairs on the land. Thanks for watching.

@@LakesideProductions Best of luck on the trailer!

Forgot to mention - one of my favorite “tricks” is to over drill the hole size by a bit, then completely fill that hole with epoxy. Let it full set, then re-drill with the right-sized bit for the hardware. You then get a thru-deck hole that keeps any future water from penetrating into the ply or teak layers.

@@LucasTPate, I've known a few others who do that as well. It's an excellent way to do it.

The KZbin stats say differently. Sounds like your own personal opinion. Please be considerate when commenting.

Those white marks are just on the surface of the epoxy from drops of water that got through the cover when it was drying. Should sand right off.

But there is a plate underneath...

@@jooger69 May be - I did not see one.

There is a stainless steel plate underneath. You can see it when the nuts are being tightened from below.​@@manfredschmalbach9023

😂 It would take some storm to rip this out of the deck

Interesting 🤔 I have never heard of that happening.

I hope so! Thanks for watching Jim

Not true it's much better than paint lol, he is making a waterproof seal not heavy layers, great protection. Every fiberglass boat has plywood 😀

@ I used to make and repair fiberglass boats, the amount of delamination and rot is amazing, transom and floor rot the most common. Getting a proper bonding to a plank deck is very difficult and usually starts to fail within a few years .

@@waynemanning3262if you have a look at some previous videos, he has put a plywood deck and that’s what he is glassing to not a plank deck but yes I know what your saying about glassing over planking

@@waynemanning3262 Yes, that's because polyester resin allows water through osmosis. Epoxy resin over plywood does not.

Epoxy resin unlike polyester resin is waterproof in the long term. Epoxy over dimensionally stable plywood as done here is very long lived especially when done with fiberglass. West Epoxy documented boats over 40 years old still in good condition.

Yeah I definitely need to do more prep beforehand to save time on each job with sanding etc.. Delighted to hear you'll purchase my branded clothing. Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching.

@@LakesideProductions Leo used enough tape to wrap Tally Ho at least twice lol.

I believe it comes down to different factors. Epoxy will still need a UV protection coat either paint or varnish over top. I've seen people start with an epoxy coat before varnishing over top to speed up the varnish process and it makes the upkeep much easier.

@LakesideProductions I'm not trying to ask stupid questions, but they probably are. I am just starting to get into the whole 'boat' thing. Don't even live near a navigatable river. Some how got into blue water sailing. Found a man who can teach me some sailing stuff come spring. So I'm coming in knowing nothing. Isn't gelcoat just epoxy resin with some pigment? And that can hold up to UV apparently forever if you do a bit of wax and buff every decade. It seems like the absolute best material for boat building. And with new boat prices costing way more than a house, wouldn't these boat builders start with this? Interiors now won't mold, swell, or rot. If done on a commercial scale, like how plywood is made, coating everything wooden with an epoxy coat would make a lot of sense. Any possible boat I would buy will be on the 'needs work' side of things. Partially due to price, partly because I'm a farmer and love working with my hands. But would really like to get an understanding of what is worth saving, what is considered too far gone. Have a forest full of old growth Maple I was thinking I could mill to any shape I could need. Think the smaller trees are over 2' diameter. Big ones easily over 3'. But never see it used in boats. Is there a reason? And would having the Maple 'painted' in epoxy be a good solution? Sorry for this ridiculously long post. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the heads up. Normally I am wearing gloves but will make sure to take extra caution going forward.