Yup. Thanks to a customer in Aomori Japan, I have almost all their CD's. Thanks for the reminder, im going to go listen to the cd lunatic Dawn while i do clutch kit invoices.🤩

1st like on your "FFT w/a iphone" run up and bump test video. I was a vibe tech in a paper mill for 10 yrs. Soon as I seen "fft", I zoned in on that because its rare to see someone know what a fast fourier is. haha. cheers

I sell a lot of clutch kits and my statistic is there are more of my customers who had a bm can and had a problem with it more than any other brand. But i think its because of bm's marketing, they sell a lot more than other brands, then statistically, I would see more of the same issues. Some people are buying a clutch kit because they think the kit will solve an engine management problem, like a can that runs lousy on an engine.

@@iBackshiftThank you. I have a 16 Mxz 600 Etec I bought used with a BM can and I have done everything under the sun to try and resolve the issue (clutching, plugs, reeds, etc), and the best I could get out of it was 77-7800 on clicker 3 , when it should see 8100. Since I dont have the stock silencer, im hoping the other aftermarket replacement (J*** can) solves my problem.

Oh no...😁im not saying anything. You have to come to your own conclusion. Anything i say can be crapped on, so that's why i use other peoples words. All I can do is bring forward someone else's facts, what they know, what came to pass for them, including myself. The facts I bring forth are stubborn things and hard to reprehend me for not being factual.

​@@iBackshiftI have two 2012 Skidoo 800 XRS...looking for primary clutch kits to rebuild both. Both are OEM. Both are 120 tracks. What do you suggest for a better launch? Thanks in advance.

@@BlueRage Buddy, only use the BRP maintenance pulley repair kit 800R-E 11-17 BRP#415129626 DO NOT use aftermarket, from amazon or ebay, no internet at all. Go into the dealer and push the money across the counter and pull the repair kit towards you; or from an online skidoo dealer like inglesperformance or wellersrec etc. Asking about a better launch, it would help to know what's wrong with the launch, what do you do when you launch? Is this trail racing, every day trail riding, racing? Best to email me off of my website with this kind of question, then I can ask you questions to figure out what you need.

​@@iBackshiftThank you for your reply. What ramp in primary would you recommend for trail racing? Both are being rebuilt. Going with OEM kits, not sure of ramp pitch for trail racing. No markings on current ramps.

I run mostly trail and ditch bang.. I’m looking for rocket speed from 40-45 mph up to 115

Cheap fastenal M5 x 100mm long bolt. $1.00/each

Seen CG in a a gig here in our city, was great. Yvon from the Race Dept made a bunch of them and I asked him for one and he said take a picture and make your own. So I did and its better, lighter.

Your power peak rpms are wrong. The 850 engine makes 165hp at 7900 AND 165hp at 8000 rpms. The difference between the two is at 8000 rpms, it 1.6 pounds less torque. The 180hp turbo has a flat power peak , 180hp at 7900 AND 180hp at 8000 rpms. The difference between the two is at 8000 rpms, it 1.8 pounds less torque. MY dyno sheet is from Skidoo from their Eddy Current dyno. All aftermarket waterbrake dynos do not show the same power curve as BRP Eddy Current dyno. One of the rare aftermarket companies that has an Eddy Current dyno is HSK Racing in Norway. HSK Racing comes up with the same power peak rpms as Ski-Doo. The Eddy Current dyno is the only dyno that comes close comparatively to the real world environment. The way bikeman, and jawz and dynotech all these other guys with their $100K watebrake dynos take reading on the engine power does not reflect what the engine will do in the real world. Its one dyno operator racing another dyno operator; its as simple as that. If you try to clutch an 850 summit to run at 77~7800, I can promise you, you are going to be stuck.....Lots ! ! !

@@iBackshift so basically what I said 7800-7900 lol? Wtf are you talking about dude. 😂

Once I saw he got a 03 rev I instantly thought of you to give him some advice 🤷‍♂️

worn clutch wear parts, improper drive belt, wrong engine speed, all contribute to low top speed

Increase secondary spring start force and combine with a lower start angle on the helix.

Yer MINT

A slick bearing makes a ski-doo helix angle(s) act as-if the are 4 degrees bigger. Example; makes a 47/44 act as-if its a 51/48. Makes a straight 40 act as-if its a straight 44, makes a 50/40 act like a 54/44. I dont calibrate my kits with them. Not saying they are bad or anything like that, just me personally, I dont use them. My other observation is people dont maintain them, they still have to be cleaned 1 to 2x/season or they grind into red powder.

That's what the title says. People [not you] asked me if i had any vids to show a turbo vs a natural. So Ski-doo can make a video like that and many other guys, but I can't post one like this?

Also have seen on a brand new pdrive is the spider spring cup in the bottom, pushed right out of the spider. Buddy had to get a new spider under warranty...brand new sled.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Howdy. After seeing the Grip-n-Rip alignment tool and all the work that Tim did for it, I couldn't re-invent the wheel. His product is great for aligning. But now since 2020, the alignment on these G4 and G5 sleds have good align specs

Yes Mister. As soon as it dies down, i will be making more vidyas. You see my new shop in this vidja so now i have some ambition to do new ones.

@@iBackshift haha awesome I took 4or 5 days and read every comment you made on doo talk about clutching over the years thanks for sharing and you are a good teacher

The problem with that is people dont torque the bolts after and they come loose and damage the helix and slide sheave.

@@iBackshift I do agree but bolt heads are better than torx heads IMO.

I changed my bolts too to hex heads and blue locktite and TORQUED them!! I torque everything.. including the oil drain plug on my truck lol

Thank you. How long until you expect to have them?

@@nickmalatesta4007 ive had a machine shop fk me around. 2 other shops turned it down. I bet its not going to be within the next 30 days *sigh*

link above buddy

who was it, couldn't tell

@@tryn2befree our prime miniature TURDeau.

Yup. 1987 x 8v92 w/DDEC 3. 600hp [no smoke]

i think right about here kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6ecd4hvgax8r5Y im using some red-rod and a vise.

@@iBackshift perfect :-)… I’ll get it.. i have all the princess tools.. so I’ll make it work. Thanks brother

Man other than the turbos and 4 strokes. Sleds havent made much progress in the last decade. I think a tricked out 97 to 03 summit with a similiar track lug I don't think they were at 3 inch yet. Could compete ad keep up no problem. I think it's more of the creature comforts that have made big advancements. But electro digitals are a pain in the ass anyway. Cool tool tho. So 8100 rpm is it nowadays for a brand new BRP? I thought them 2 strokers where well over 10k by now

Hi Alex. I answered you in another post above, thanks, Joey

The stock ramps are great. Where you are going to get off the line the hardest is to have the engagement speed as close to 6000 as possible, then choose your helix start angle, somewhere in the 70 degree start for .31.

@@iBackshift just afraid it would spin out im running 46-44 now and bearly staing put in the starting matt. My engagment rmp is 5800 .would a 70 launch harder ? In theory when in starting from a startmat the prlmary wont pull all that helx angle at 5800 r Mp actually does it soften up the launch?

You said stock engine. Umm, still, did you shave the cylinder head? Zoomies also happen when people dont run the exhaust shields with their ceramic wool to insulate the pipe. Getting pipe surge when the exhaust pipe never gets the chance to heat up.

@Dynamo Joe the head is stock and nothing done to the pipe, all Insulation is intact