You need to 100% contact Tom Winkles he does all of our Mopar maxcare warranty’s. Based on what you said do not buy this car without maxcare or Alfacare and do not get a 3rd party warranty. You can get the car anywhere just make sure it has some factory warranty left it’s a requirement for maxcare. Then hit that guy up pay it and he sends an official contract. I’ve used mine 3 times saved about 6k so far. I’m not saying at all that they are not reliable but if your level of mechanical skill is growing then yes get warranty

@@MrLGR1992 leave it plugged in just charge from the front like in the video

Yeah I will make an updated video what I’ve learned is settings are not the same for every computer. Start out in settings go to scan for interface and save the number it auto generated press ok. Latency in windows has always been good around 5-8 that’s in port settings advanced you have to play around with it. Also don’t let the car just sit there for hours while you learn. Keep it on a charger if your doing this or long periods of time or the battery will get low and it will time out regardless of settings.

@@arminiogonzalez4427 yes they updated the part 3 times now so best bet if you wanna get the most updated one go grab it from your dealership directly. It’s the same set up 2017-2024 they just kept using crappy relays

Thank you!

It could be coolant from your turbo there is an O ring that messes up causing leaks they evaporate to fast to see. So go look for pinkish residue

Yeah I just left it alone but all it takes is the engine cover off and you can reach it pretty easy

@@alfamods2.0T Thanks so much!

@@captainculpeper1250 nah it’s a project car not a show car. Im more interested in helping people learn things, but thanks for the suggestion.

You want people to think you're a slob then owning a beautiful alfa... strange but thanks for tips!​@alfamods2.0T

100% metal are wayy way better than

@@BenTegu reset the power gate or reach out to whoever you bought from

I do my best, appreciate the feedback.

@@alfamods2.0T I know you do and it’s appreciated. I am just suggesting improvements because most people learn by seeing the actual part being worked on, and no verbal explanation replaces visual identification. Thanks for your reply. Blessings…

Thank you! In your case if you have the check engine service throttle I would start with getting the codes read. The relays help if the car is slow or sluggish and the start stop one when it dies the car won’t start intermittently so you will know if that’s bad. You can email me at [email protected] I can help I take donations

You can get one with some factory warranty left that's already depreciated by 50% and just get an extended mopar maxcare warranty. It's such a good value car for what you pay for.

a Lexus? OMG did all fun departed?

@@relax3d oh yes big time I got my money back and purchased maxcare for 1/7th the price and they just paid for a 3200 oil cooler job crazy here in the US.

@@sun2190_ nope never did car running strong. 0-60 tuned 4.5 so I’d say it ok. Just check your air intake sometimes the elbow gets loose

@@alfamods2.0T thanks for the reply, so you just live with the humming noise? It’s very annoying since it’s accruing on common highway speed

@@edwardveneziale6830it’s in the video when you turn the car back on you turn the wheel all the way to the right then all the way left then off and on clears the battery disconnect codes.

@@jesusmalverde612 it’s just a screw driver if it’s facing down and won’t rise after you turn it. The housing popped out of place for the projector and you will physically have to put it back in place or new headlight. It’s common so just saying normally it’s either straight up or super down. Otherwise just use the adjustment screw

Do I need the blue one cable?

@@julioqueral770 under dash board then find the control module it’s right under gearbox on the main menu

@@alfamods2.0T I run the general scan and delete the active codes but even so the error persists; and in the engine sound enhacement module section I can't connect, I think I need the blue cable to do it

@@julioqueral770 my previous comments I said you need blue cable “edit sorry actually someone else had asked in another video I assumed it I responded but yes you need blue to do anything just get the set

@@alfamods2.0Tohh ok ok thanks so much bro; so, just need the blue one to remove that error?

It’s muffler delete OEM resonator swapped over to a vibrant resonator

@@alfamods2.0Tah thank you man

@@alfamods2.0Tis the stock resonator louder than the vibrant one ?

It’s called the bleeder screws

@@benfilipkowski5127 nope checked my turbo for play 15k miles later no issues make sure it’s installed correctly

@@abdulmiyanji4768 it’s not easy you need a new clock spring and tap a wire in the lin bus system I have the instructions from people who have done it. Even at my skill level I would not say easy. This is more advanced. Example air filter easy intake easy, this requires both mechanical skill programing (proxy alignment) and some wiring skill. I can give you full instructions but it will cost for my time and live support and even then we know it’s not perfect like a factory programmed 2024 would be it’s close though. my email is [email protected]

@@dawhitecastle I mean it takes 30 min I have a video how to do it. There really is not a lot holding it on rear bumper wise

Thanks for watching!

100% normal you have to drive. It recalibrates by driving. If yours was super low up to 1 hour before it realizes it has a new battery. In your case should be very fast. Make sure you do the wheel to the left lock then to the right lock then off and on to clear the codes that come from disconnecting the battery

@@alfamods2.0T Thanks champ!!

Oil has to be at 3 bars temp with the car on when you reset or do the pedal method google it there is a long sequence

@@alfamods2.0T can’t get any of it to work. Late 2019 model.

@@Jamproductions808 the one that you hear after you turn off the car? That’s the EGR solenoid.

@@alfamods2.0T is that normal? I’ve been hearing that same sound

@@Jamproductions808 yes it will always do that after shut down if it doesn’t it’s not normal

Hi! Thanks for watching. I typed this last night and it didn’t post so. You can 100% use the throttle controller with Squadra I’ve been using it for a while like that and it does make it more fun. I will soon be offering device leasing where I send out a special obd2 that can remote load trans tunes so stay tuned.

Isn’t the remote transmission tune what Squadra is selling ?

Yeah you need multiecuscan to go into the abs module and clear out the air codes. I promise you didn’t disconnect the battery when doing this and pump the brakes right? If you don’t do that instant permanent code in the abs the dealership will tell you you need a new caliper I just fixed the codes for a guy in ATX and that’s what they told him when it was just a computer issue. DM me [email protected] I do charge th help but if will 90% less than the dealership

Buy them used now on eBay we’re finally hitting that point. There was a set for 500 each not the best condition but my point is now it’s affordable I wanted to be first

@@alfamods2.0T Thats not too bad. Definitly cool to get info about the upgrade. Love your channel by the way! Great vids and info! Wasnt trying to be negative.👍

Your welcome!

@@Theycallmebritish I’ll start the looking!

Thank you. I do have sensors; not sure if there's any bumpers without. Much respect

@@FizzGiGG55123 it doesn’t hold up nearly as long I’ve talked to 3 people that still ended up replacing turbo before this came out I don’t sell these they help

@@alfamods2.0T Yep, it's always YMMV. Sometimes it's the turbo wastegate arm itself, and that requires a new turbo.

@@Josueojeda98 find the code and come back here. Go to autozone have them read it it doesn’t take a special Alfa tool to read any obd2 reader and then I can help. Email me at [email protected] for detailed help for donation. As far as the liquid does it smell?

1000% this is not an NA engine it’s the post temps that matter those temps tell the ECU to pull timing if they are high but this is not the case here

An intercooler is only going to remove a set amount of heat depending on the outside temp and the speed of the air going over it. There for the hotter the air going in, the hotter the air the engine is going to ingest. You can't magically have cooler air just because you have an intercooler.

​​​​@@jlsracing997true but in this case it's a negligible difference. There was actually a study done that's on youtube on Guilia intakes showing that the post intercooler air temps between the "hot air intakes" and stock were 1 degree or less.

​@@jlsracing997 kzbin.info/www/bejne/imrYnGmua8-hjtksi=EOI0Jgz2iPYxyK6q

@@jlsracing997 we don’t have an intercooler it’s a heat exchanger and if you didn’t know that well there you go, but still the cars ECU only cares about numbers it doesn’t care what the outside temp is only after the heat exchanger and from a stock air box to an open one the data showed 2 degrees Fahrenheit difference from BMS open air and that difference does nothing for power reduction. The way it works is when the car ECU senses hot post IAT it pulls timing and that makes power loss. 2 degrees from the stock set up to open is not going to trigger a timing reduction. I’m sorry but we have data specific to this platform you don’t. I don’t even sell intakes I have zero to gain from this video other than people watching. I don’t even have an affiliate link with this company

@@jesusmalverde612 yeah your evap canister is bad order a new one and replace or it will keep happening and eventually throw a code. If it helps you can always leave a tip here. This is a very common problem

@@alfamods2.0T thank you for the reply. Where would you recommend ordering this piece from ?

@@jesusmalverde612 dealership or alffismo when you get to which one you need (they have different versions) and specifics I offer membership or donations for more detailed questions thanks.

there is a a small black bracket (10mm bolt) on the negative side of the battery down below where the battery is seated. It's a pain to get to with "man hands" but check there first. Unscrew the bolt with a 10mm and you should be able to remove the battery.

It’s the 10mm bolt like the other guy mentioned not easy to reach. Remove the carpet around it makes it much easier to find.

@@joebama6945 just the bleeder screws no hose you already have the updated hose. Even the 2024 they didn’t fix so it’s all Giulia Stelvio even the 2.9 has issues. It’s the worst when it happens too always at the worst time. I get a lot of people that emergency message me on Instagram so I can help them make a DIY fix just so they can get home lol.

Good thing there is a device it can also be done with a tune. I will post some later

Yes it’s the same bleeder screw that’s terrible you would think 80k car maybe not use brittle plastic on a part that keeps coolant in.

It’s GFB+ whistle low boost

I’ve tried it they pretty much all feel the same performance wise. I’ve tried Forge motorsports AFE, stock with bmc filter, V1 EC, V2 EC, ideal race, BMS, pretty much all that’s on the market I’ve only made videos on this one and AFE because those I liked a lot. So with that being said when I data log for post IAT temps alll these intakes are with in a few degrees of temp. They all slightly improve power in the upper. I would get ideal if you want crazy sound. AFE is a mix but to quite for me especially since I can’t tell the performance difference between any of these. If I had 5 new cars only changing intakes out and had a blind drive I wouldn’t be able to tell other than by sound not power