How do you get the bottom bolt off? Removed the nut and the bolt goes in a few inches and hits the side wall. Can't get it to go the rest of the way.

Do you know the part number of the 12mm nut and lock washer that's supposed to be fastened onto the back of the starter motor? 5:04 - 6:05

What's the belt number pls

I'm interested to know how having it mounted vertically affects the lubrication, I am using one on my project and i was thinking about standing it upright and purposefully overfilling it with gear oil to keep the oil at least splashing onto the differential but more importantly keeping the gears lubed.

No bleeding breaks.😮

I mean... you would probably have easier access to a prybar

Nice try diddy

No thanks

Time to get a helicoil

Dorman make a repair kit

Great video

Diesels don't have spark plugs

Bro they make a over sized and under sized plug and kit for that at auto parts store a drunken sloth can install

The repair kit should cost around 60 to $70, unless it's cheaper in your area or whatever. The hardest problem is finding the right socket. To do the job, you may have to use tape as a shim count. This ridge, it'll be about 30 half turns on the socket. Probably more, just so you don't think you're turning it way too much was no result. They do work

I've got 3 repair kits online. They work, okay, it's hard to find coil packs. Worth using, but whatever? Mine using runs on 56. Maybe 7 cylinders won't stop though. The plugs are called moon travelers.I've had four repairs on three holes

nothing unplugged the coil

Ah yes, the elusive v7

Happened to me. Got it repaired. 3.300 bucks later it was fixed. 3 months later another one blew out. Had only 112.000 miles on it. Sold it as is. Bought a chevy silverado. 276.000 miles on it and still running good with no issues.

Man, I've ruined at least two heads in my career trying to get these out and yours just pops out. Go figure lol.

Triton? Who makes this model?

Won’t damage the motor, just pull the connector for the injector so it’s not shooting fuel into the engine bay

Nice video. Good illustration of location, and your sense of humor cracked me up.

Socket sizes were all that was missing otherwise perfect will save me time 👍

Your truck was literally running the same as it was before you unplugged the coil pack

Nice job sir

Well done! Thanks for this🙏

❤❤❤❤❤❤

Is there anyother parts tha's easy to replace. This demo lesson is super amzing.

Great! So much easier than a Mitsushi Lancer (a real bitch), Nissan too omg! TY, i never new.

You have to change all the coils not just one

Woah I'm about to try this

Ahh thanks man. I've spent more time needed googling how to test the coils on a V8 Vortec. This will definitely help me out tomorrow when I try to diagnose my 6.0.

What do I do if the shifter did come out a lot and now it’s not shifting right and idk how to put it back in the right spot

I'm going to be doing this exact swap this weekend on an 08 any recommendations on procedure? or was it all as simple as you made it look?

What a great set of videos. Good descriptions. Good editing. The extra arrows and numbers on screen also very helpful. And thanks for including mistakes. Id likely repeat them otherwise. I found great chunks of metal on the magnet in mine. Bugger! Not the solenoid problem I was hoping for when I bought the car.

Hi. I have visited your youtube channel video. Your video Is good and has some SEO issues. So the video has no views. I will solve your problems if you want.

Ya forgot to connect the negative back to the battery. 😅

I took it off and popped it back in but I’m stuck at replacing the tension bolt I think is what it’s called? Does the longer horizontal bolt touch the belt? Is that how it tightens the belt?

Punch out the catalyst then reinsall you will get better performance. Put spacers on the downstream O2 sensor so you don’t get the check engine. FYI It will not pass an emissions test.

No intake gasket change?

Thanks buddy my doors are not locking or opening. Some lights don't work😂 thank s

You didn’t need an 8 foot pry bar for anybody thinking about doing this put load on the upper control arm by jacking up the lower or loosen the upper mount bolts to relieve the tension. Unless you have polyurethane bushings on the UCA you will need to torque them down when the vehicle/arms are in their loaded position.

Thanks man!

Having the same problem… thanks

I know this video is 2 years old warning to anyone that is going to try to do this be carful for me the initial bolt was to tight and snapped in half

Doesn't look bad, but I've got way more rust on my 2008 so I'll keep my fingers crossed. I had a dragging brake from a hose that collapsed and the rotor got red hot like tail lights a couple times, having to throw a gallon of water on it to keep from bursting into flames. I imagine I cooked the grease out of the bearing because now it runs hot, 7 seconds touch of the lug nuts after 20 miles and you're gonna say ouch. Sucks it happened but it does have 414,000 miles on it. I would suggest boards for footings under your jack stand legs on such soft ground, just big enough to reduce the PSI so the stand doesn't go right into the ground when needed.

Replacing the tension idlers and belt all together would’ve been your best bet. Take the motor mount out allows you to raise & lower the engine giving more access to the tensioner and its mounting bolt. Huge pita for a serpentine belt. Good on you for powering through and completing the job.

Nice work. Here I was hoping a couple guys with a wrench could replace my chewed belt no problem... Well, this is way better than the drawing board-- thanks.

Hi, you have done some great work! What are the rims you have on the car, they look nice?..

What size Engine