Glad I could help

How do you know you mixed the filler wrong. Did it harden and were you able to sand it? The only two bad situations are, if you didn't get enough hardener in it and it never fully cured. Or if you mix too much hardener in it, the bleach that is in the hardener can cause spots or stain in your paint job down the road. Tell me why you feel it is wrong?

How did you mess it up?

So this is not a CVT, this trans is a 6 speed automatic? I have access to global parts finder. But I am sure the cheapest I can find you a used trans with low miles is going to be around $1500 plus the shipping.

@@RodsshopOrg its a cvt in normal drive mode but when it starts doing as I described I put it into manual mode and the "gear numbers" was 5 and 6 its not actual gears it just the ranges programmed for sport/ manual mode

@@breakinggames6356 Does the vehicle seem to have a loss of power. The one in this video did have a slipping trans and I replaced it. However, it also had a clogged exhaust system and that messed with the shifting of the replacement trans. However, if you are sure it is the trans, if you would like, I can try to locate you a low miles replacement.

@@RodsshopOrg currently the exhaust isnt attached and its still not the case I have my mechanic trying to figure it out too

@@breakinggames6356 You do realize that the pipe that comes off the engine is a catalytic converter. They put two catalytic converters on them. Have you watched my other video on this? kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2qylH5nhbB8bas We went through a lot of diagnostics until I finally went old school and attached a vacuum gauge to the engine and saw the exhaust was clogged. I disconnected the exhaust pipe and no change. Then realized that the header pipes that come off the engine go into the first and main catalytic converter. Bought a new one and the thing ran like a race car. Watch the video and see if this is similar. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2qylH5nhbB8bas

The board had corroded connections and there were some components that went bad. That is whey I sent the cluster off to the Atlanta Speedometer Repair Shop.

Glad I could help

I wouldn't use rivets, they are not strong enough. You can use nuts and bolts. However, they need to be grade 8. Also, you are going to have some areas that are either going to be impossible to get bolts into or just not at all. What year make and model are you working on?

Yes, normally you would remove the passenger headlamp assembly. The owner of this car had glued his headlight back together from where it broke in the past and I didn't want to get into that nightmare. But you are correct, pulling the headlamp assembly gets you the access you need.

Glad I could help

That would be great if you make a video on the repair. Once you get it made, I will send my viewers to you from YT and my blog.

@@RodsshopOrg thanks. I will make sure I tag the video with all the probable Toyota models of that era. The Capacitors are 30 years old. My ones were fried but I needed a Lupe to see just how bad they looked. I suspect the black stains on the circuit traces was corrosion from leakage. I have heard they get cracks in the traces and that one in particular will have the odo working but not the Speedo. I was surprised that there was no info out there and even the Toyota manual just says to get the cluster tested. No great diagnosis. I will subscribe to you so I can get back over I've made the video.

Get the phone number for Atlanta Speedometer from the description and call them. Describe your issue and they can tell you if you should send it in or not for repair.

No, they are a sealed bearing. Once it starts making a noise, you have to replace them.

@workingtools2999 Yes, I have done that often. Just cut out all the rusted part, be sure to cut well into the unrusted areas. Then weld in the new metal. As a tip, I would use a Weld Through Primer to help prevent your welded area from rusting later on. Prime and paint it thoroughly.

@@RodsshopOrg Sounds good. I Don't wanna be removing parts that has no rust at all. Previous owner neglected it and now its my problem. Its only at 90K kilometers too. 2012 Nissan ser spec v. 😁

@@workingtools2999 You should be fine just cutting out what is needed and weld back in new. Saves a lot of time on having to remove fenders and radiator supports and stuff for sure.

I am scratching my head on how many people keep going on about high speed and low speed. There is ONLY ONE SPEED!!! The fan is on, or it is off, there are no multiple speeds. The 5th terminal is always switched closed, so when you add power to the relay, that leg becomes open. It serves no purpose when hooking up a cooling fan. Have you added these fans or are you trying to diagnose a factory fan? There is no speed controller to make the fan have a high speed or a low speed. Perhaps you are messing with some factory setup. But when hooking up a cooling fan. There is battery power that goes from the battery to PIN 30 on the relay. PIN 87 runs to the fan. PINs 85 and 86 are the low voltage switch, triggered by a coolant temp sensor or a switch on the dash. At no point is there a resistor or speed controller. If you have something in your system controlling fan speed, which would make no sense at all, then that setup is beyond my wiring diagram and you would need to refer to an OEM wiring diagram.

@@RodsshopOrg OE fans, only one worked. Replaced with aftermarket. I have two relays, one marked "low/high" the other marked "high" for the fans. When i first bought the car, im sure the fan speed went into high mode in the summer with A/C on. At least both fans are running now, thanks for the info.

@@HackHunter1835 What kind of car is this, I would like to research this High/Low stuff and try and understand their reasoning behind it.

@@RodsshopOrg 2004 Chrysler 300M Special. Google said low fan speed up to a certain temp, then high fan speed when temps reach 220 to 230 deg. This car has boggled my mind of late lol

@@HackHunter1835 Leave it to Chrysler to come up with such a dumb idea. Unless you want to do some custom wiring, you are kind of at the mercy of that ridiculous set up. Rewiring wouldn't be too hard, just depends on if you want to get into all of that. You would need to replace the coolant temp sensor with a real standard one that turns on like at 185° and shuts off at 200°. And just run your own relay and wiring to the fans. Fans either need to be on or off. The low speed and high speed thing serve no purpose. All it does is complicate things when stuff starts messing up.

This could be a really complex question to answer based on a variety of factors. First off, what is the amperage draw on your fan? If it pulls like 25 to 28 amps, then that could cause the relay to get hot. The biggest thing I can think of that is overheating everything, is the wiring. What gauge wire are you running? How do you have battery voltage source feeding the relay? You should at least a 12 gauge wire coming from the actual battery or at least a great high amp source. It is also highly important that your ground wire to the fan is at least a 12 gauge and connected to an excellent ground source.

Because, the less you have to remove the better, plus when trying remove inner fender wells, you often get broke or stripped bolts. Didn't see the need to get into all that drama and extra time when this method on this Blazer worked fine. However, as I pointed out in this video, not every S10 is going to be the same and you may have to pull the inner fender well on some. I have had to do that myself on a few. Just like some, I do not have to jack up the motor any and some I have to remove a lot of stuff. You got to love the consistency with GM in those years.

There are many videos on this subject. Many of which show you can clear over the existing paint. It is possible to do but it isn't easy to do if you want it to come out right. I have some videos on this, here is one of them so you can see what I am talking about: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWjKYWqwfbBpe7s If you can sand the peeling clear back to where you can no longer see the edges of the clear. And do this without sanding through the color, you might be able to get it to look better than what it does. I would highly recommend getting some matched base coat, Sand the peeling clear back, and at least wherever the peeling places are, spray and fan out some base coat in those areas before you clear. You can get matching base coat from your paint code and this company here is the paints I used in the video that led you to me. rodsshop.org/get/automotive-touchup-aerosols/ I can look at what you are dealing with if you want to send me some pictures. Contact me through my website and you can share your pictures: rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/ I can give you better advice and tips if I know exactly what you are dealing with.

@@RodsshopOrg Thank you for the prompt response! The vehicle is a fiberglass motorcoach. I have areas on the back that was exposed to sun when I bought it from the previous motorhome. How do I send you photos? Email? Thanks again!

@@user-lm2qo8xb9e Contact me through my site and we can start conversing and you can send me pics. rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/

amzn.to/3VzzaBN

I can tell you, to make the job easier, you can remove the headlamp assembly on the passenger side to make it easier to get to some of those nuts and bolts. This car in the video, the owner had glued some of the assembly in and I didn't want to mess with it taking a chance of not getting it all to glue back. Just a tip

For a radiator change on that size engine and radiator, plan on buying 2 gallons. However, you also have to decide if you are what your mix ratio is. You can buy antifreeze already mixed 50/50. Which is fine unless you live someplace that the temps drop down to 0 or below for long periods of times, or you live out in hot desert type area where 100 degrees is a cool day. No matter how you mix it, 2 gallons of coolant should be enough.

Ok thank you

@@RodsshopOrgok thank you

Yes, this Bonneville is 10th generation and run from 2000 to 2005. So this would be the same.

Contact me on my website rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/ Your question is a bit long and convoluted. One thing, there is no high and low speed on a cooling fan, it just turns on or off. This sounds like you are trying to hook up an aftermarket fan to the OEM equipment. None of what your saying makes a lot of sense but I think it is because I do not have enough information of what kind fan you are hooking up. So contact me through my website and I can provide you a way to upload me some pictures of what you have and what you are doing.

My book shows the knock sensor is located on the back side of the engine under the exhaust manifold between the frost plugs. The connector is located on top by the battery/air box.

You didn't tell me the color and I am assuming this is 2007 Blazer. I think the hood is a bit larger on the 2007. If you are painting a color like a white or light color, it may take many coats to go over black. However, if the color is dark or black, then covering it should be quick. According to the specs on a can, they should cover up to a 25 square feet. However, take that with a grain of salt. If you are shooting a dark or black over black, then 2 cans of color will work. If a lighter color, then you may need 3 to 4. For the clear, I would only use the 2K urethane cans. Anything else, you would be wasting your time and money. 1K or regular clear will peel off and dull within a month. The clear coverage is about the same as the color. 1 can claims to be able to shoot about 25 square feet. From my experience, you will want at least two cans and that would give you a good medium one coat. If you went 3 cans, that would apply a good 2nd coat to the hood. Be sure to read the back of the cans for flash times. Some brands vary on the flash time you wait between the base coat and the clear coat. The last aerosol I sprayed was wait 30 to 45 minutes before applying the clear, so double check that by reading the back of the cans before you get started.

I did have the bleeder open when I was filling the radiator, just forgot to show that in the video. It still had air in it. Almost every 3.8 setup around these years, I always have to bleed them after they run a bit. I couldn't remove the bolts to the headlamp, this was a bad car to show for an example. The customer had the headlamp assembly strapped in and some pieces glued and I didn't want to open that can of worms.

Is this installation the same for a 2004

There is no speed control on fans, they are either on or off. The temperature sensor is really just a switch. When the sensor gets to the set temperature, let's say 190°, it turns the fans on, when the sensor gets cooled down, it turns the fan off.

@RodsshopOrg ok so my next question would you recommend higher Watts fans if it's not keeping my truck cool enough. Currently have 12v 90w dual fan but just getting on the freeway they don't stay as cool & after a while with the AC on it starts to overheat if the truck is stationary but on the go not really.

@@hase1357 I am guessing you have two fans since you said FANS. It isn't so much buying higher wattage fans, you need higher CFMs and there is a difference. I am helping someone right now on a Porsche that have super high wattage fans that requires a 70 amp fuse and blowing fuses and heating up wires. There is no point is jumping up wattage. Look at the CFMs and the wattage. A good fan will pull lesser wattage and deliver the proper CFMs. I know this may be a stupid question but need to address this first. Are you sure the fans are blowing the correct direction? Believe me, I have seen it all with electric fans. If the fans are on the engine side of the radiator, they need to be pulling in the air. If they are on the grille side of the radiator, they need to be blowing toward the motor. How big are the fans, as in what diameter? In all honesty, if the radiator is clean and flowing good, the thermostat is working correctly and is at the right temperature and the fan coolant temp sensor is turning on and off at the right temperature, most any fan is going to work. The only times I have seen where a fan isn't keeping an engine cool standing still, is if it is really too small in diameter or a real low CFM fan. If your fans are pulling somewhere between 1200 and 1300 CFMs, it should work. Get me the full specs on the fan. Go to my website and contact me through it so I you can email me some pictures of your setup and I am sure I can help you. rodsshop.org/contact/

Glad I could help

Fan temp switches do not always act the way you would think. Mostly due to the location of the switch, especially if the temp switch is in the head. If you know what your thermostat is, you need to get a switch that turns on about 15° to 20° higher. Example. if you are running a 180° thermostat, get a temp switch that turns on at 200° and off at 185°. Even then you still may have to play with this. I use a laser thermometer to measure the engine temps where the temp switch goes to get a base idea of what I need. Try all this and let me know what the outcome is.

@@RodsshopOrg Thanks and I’ll try that . My thermostat is 160 and the switch they say is 185

@@llewelldynjones755 When you run into these kind of issues, it is helpful to use a laser thermometer gun. It has helped me find cooling system problems, double check the thermostat to ensure its temp is right to blockage in a radiator. But I have used the gun to get a better idea of what temp sensor to buy as well. This is the exact gun I have, it is pretty cheap and great for this kind of thing. amzn.to/49IGbnW With your engine at full operating temperature, aim the gin at the hose that comes off the thermostat housing and take the reading. Then aim it where your temp sensor/switch is and see what that temp is. This will tell you if there is any temp variance. You can also aim it at the temp switch when the engine is just warming up and see what the actual temp is when it kicks that fans on. Sometimes, even a new temp switch isn't accurate.

Thanks for the information I’ll check sometime this week when I’m off and let u know

Having grease fitting is nice but on these end links, the need for a grease fitting isn't that crucial if any. The upper bushings and often the threaded part of the shaft wears out long before the lower bushing. So if you can't find one with zirk, you should be fine.

I used Speedo-Coat, you can get it here: amzn.to/3x3mx8d It has a really deep gloss to it and you can sand and buff it in the same day. They advertise within an hour but I always recommend to wait a day or at least 6 hours if you are in a big hurry.

I am not sure what you are asking. There is no pin that goes into the emergency brake lever. You may have to drive out the emergency brake lever pin out of the shoe and use the old one. If that is what you are asking, I show that you have to drive it back in with a hammer. Can you explain what you are asking, maybe at what point in the video did I lose you?

You know, I thought about your question and realized what you were asking. All I did is just slide the adjuster back, there is no hole for it to catch in. You can see me pushing it into place. However the view is blocked. That pin sticking out on the adjuster is to keep the emergency brake lever away from the adjuster.