The transmission fluid strainer is a lifetime filter. It can only be accessed by completely disassembling the transmission such as when doing a rebuild.

This car has some sort of connector on it

Im going to attempt this soon. How can I ensure the steering column doesn't come apart at the spline? Theres another video on youtube and the guys wheel came off the spline and he had issues with alignmeent afterwards.

random question. couldnt one just place a tube on the bleed valve and use a hand pump to suck the fluid out, liuke with brake fluid change?

At 5,000 kilometres from new now I had the transmission fluid changed out …. it isn’t inexpensive but you can get it special order on line at SuperCheapAuto …. Gulf Western Ultra Shift M 75w Full Synthetic MTF … has cured one to two shift problem.

I have 2016 toyota gt86 trd, D4S or H11? HiD or LED? Which is better?

Thank you excellent video just to the point!

So far so god ,we are at 23:24

This is the video I needed. Thanks from a fellow Australian!

I'm guessing it's the same for petrol version. I have MY2013 1.8LT Petrol wagon?

Great...ahm.....video.....ahm....thanks.....ahm....

Hey would you happen to know a link I could use to buy the bushing I been struggling to find it

good video,thanks

what’s the part number for both of them?

Would a plastic pry tool work also?

Bro just saved us all 1500 bucks a pop 😂 really appreciate this video man

Great video thanks. Upon reinstalling the pedal I've inserted the three 'bolts' loosely, but the 'fork' on the actuator rod is to one side of the pedal. And I can't manoeuvre it to 'clamp' onto the pedal. Should I be able to push the rod towards the firewall in order to get the actuator 'fork' to move across and 'clamp' the pedal? Thanks for any help.

Have on coming in mail in two days.. Quick jack. 10//05/2024

Brilliant! Thanks for this post OP. If only they had these decades ago. Now it's number 2 on the list of must-haves for my Lexus LS 460, right after the other money-pit, Tech-Stream...

Well explained . Thanks

What ended up being the issue with the noise you were hearing since it wasn't the EPS Damper???

So what was your issue?

mi hai salvato, ormai è da mesi che vado avanti con i fari che mi illuminano massimo 10m davanti a me haha e gli abbaglianti è come se non ci fossero

This is a great video. I definitely learned a few things I wouldn't have thought of otherwise. A few random thoughts: - the hose routing, but this has been covered - QJ orientation - good to know, but far from mandatory in most cases. Engineers factor the weight distribution when they design the jack points, they're typically shifted toward the heavier end. I've lifted many cars with the QJ fwd or backward, and they're rock steady either way. Orientation is usually dictated by where I want the power unit or hoses, which bumper is closer to a wall, etc. Still appreciate you calling attention to it, there may be some scenarios where it may matter. Just not usually. - the hockey puck pinch-weld blocks - I did the same to use with floor jacks, and I've used them with the quickjack, and they're fine for both. And I've used the rubber blocks on pinch welds and no splitting. I wouldn't glue them together though. Or just cut a groove in one face of the rubber block to accommodate the pinch weld so it doesn't split. - in the unlikely case of a QJ failure, it's not necessarily going to come straight down, so the jack stands may or may not be useful. I prefer to throw a couple wheels underneath the car alongside me, but out of my way. Doesn't hurt to have the jack stands there though. A couple tips I can add: - once its locked in place, you can remove the hoses if they're in the way - if you park on top of the QJ, the car can drip on them (esp. salt runoff if winter area). Consider covering them if you choose to do this. - ***ensure the QJ are parallel to each other when lifting***. If not, the blocks will try to roll sideways / may pop out. -#1 hack: add casters so you can easily roll the QJ under the car, around the floor, etc. Should have come this way from the factory. Can buy them for $350++, or many online sources showing how to add them for nearly nothing. I'll shut up now. Off to double check my hydraulic oil level!

this is the same problem Hyundai and Kia has. Did you find the culprit of the noise? Steering rack bushings?

the front dif is much darker than the rear. good to change the front more often.

Thank you for this video, very helpful

Thanks mate.😊 A well detailed explanation in every steps gives me more confidence to service my tucson for the first time.

This is a very informative video and I thank you for taking the time to make it. I am currently in the process of placing an order and your video helped me a lot. I have watched about a dozen videos and you explained it very well.

Do you really need to clutch in 5x? I've read only 1x is sufficient.

Thank you for the video, saved me a lot of time and money.

Your hoses coming off the cylinder are not routed correctly.

What happens if you don’t change it? will there be smoke/steam coming through vents and a lot of condensation?

Good on ya mate,I just adjusted the boys BRZ and after turning the shaft the wrong way to start with,it all worked out perfect.. Cheers Mark..😊😊

You have it setup wrong. Hydraulic hose goes under the frame so it doesn't get busted

Thank you so much for this video! I was having the rattling issue in my 2015 FRS and found out that this part might be the issue (and it was). Your video helped a lot when trying to see what parts were which, so thank you!

Ive been coming back to this video everything i need to do a coolant fillup or someone has a brz/frs that needs to do it. Best video for this.

Love my quick jack, thanx for the hacks

Greetings from Texas. Great video, man! You’ve given me the confidence to tackle the job on my ‘23 Santa Fe torque converter auto this weekend. 🍻🤠

Great video, ive owned my quick jacks for about 7 years now and love them. Definitely not a tool i use every time im working on something but nice to have when you need them. Good idea with the positioning of the jacks depending on vehicle mass. I usually set them up where i can pull my car in all the way and when it lifts it pulls the car/truck back away from the wall. I work on a lot of older vw's so the weight hanging over the jack vs behind it is a great idea. Ive also used the jack to lift the car sideways which quickjack actually put up on their facebook

According to the service manual - the engine needs to be running in park or neutral while you check the atf level. The ATF should be between 50-60c like you said in the video. You might want to check the level with the engine running next time. Thanks for posting the video.

An upshift blip and maintain throttle around 2000 RPM helps in my BRZ when cold.

Does this method get all the old clutch fluid out of the hydraulic lines or does some get left behind?

Thank you for the video bro.2024😂😊

Fucking yapper just get to a tutorial

Bro make both videos for the second gen please. Im a noob trying to do this

Right in the morning the first few shifts i just go from 1 to 3 and skip 2. Then by the time I get to the main road it's working just fine. So weird how it doesn't wanna go into 2 for me in the mornings.

Holy, thanks for the video I’m definitely replacing my tie rods first after seeing your results!!! Vibration noise in my frs seems to be from steering wheel area however so I’ll be back here eventually.

Appreciate the video man! Had it all broken down in about a hour thanks to you waiting on my new part to come in to finish up!

My bulbs look nothing like this in my 2015 scion frs. Lmao.