Yes! I have no experience growing it but if you have the space for it (30' x' 30'), it will make a great shade tree. It is considered hardy for our area from what I have read.

@ People are also using Eucalyptus as soil builders. Chop and drop. But they are called widow makers for a reason.

Yes...I have them both as grafts. They are here to stay in my yard.

Thank you and glad you enjoyed the content!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Angel Red is patented, so it is probably not available as scion wood. However, you could potentially purchase two small plants of those varieties and use them for your scion wood later. One Green World has both varieties. Another possibility is figbid or inquire on the ourfigs forum. Someone might have those growing and maybe selling some wood later this year or next.

@ Thank you for those excellent suggestions! There is a seller of Angel Red pomegranate trees on FigBid currently. This could be a chance to try my hand at that grafting method Charles Malki demonstrates where you use a potted tree as the scion. Or to research a replacement variety without a patent, which would be cheaper! Fruitwood Nursery scions are a bargain, but they sure don’t give much information about the varieties they sell.

They were! Some of my tastiest figs are harvested in the fall because the weather offers a longer more gradual ripening time than summer.

Thanks for the kind words! I purchased both the sweet almond bush (Aloysia virgata) and the Mexican sunflower (Tithonia diversifolia) as small starts from Green Dreams Nursery in FL. Pete usually has them in stock on his online store if you can't find a local source.

@ Great. Thank you for that! You always are SO good about answering questions! It’s much appreciated. 🙏❤️

For a deciduous fruiting shade tree, mulberry would be the best choice of the two. 20th century does not produce much for me and all pear trees tend to favor vertical growth and do not canopy out making them poor for shade. Plus mulberry is bulletproof when it comes to disease where as pear trees are susceptible to developing blight. I personally would not grow the white shatoot variety that close to my house as they get pretty big and will have big root systems. A dwarf variety will still get 15'+ tall and give lots of fruit. But if you are up for a lot of pruning, a standard-size mulberry tree could be kept smaller

@ Hmmm…I wonder if there are any dwarf mulberries that are white or anyway nonstaining. That tree will eventually overhang my cement driveway. I will Google it. Thanks for your opinion!

Yes, it's possible to save it. That's exactly right. Cut it back to clean tissue at a 45-degree angle. Dab the cut dry with a paper towel and then apply some Elmers glue on top of the cut to seal it off. It should recover. Best of luck!

Zone 7a, plant is indoors only, was going to replant in a little bigger pot since it was getting so tall, guess that’ll have to wait to see if it survives this. Loved my little “palm tree”. In 5 years it has never branches or bloomed, just looking like a palm.

Amazon. It's the Klein Tools 18-Compartment VDV ProTech Transport Tool Case

You are welcome! Moringa is likely an annual in your area. Grow indoors as starters from seed and plant in the ground in spring to maximize growth during the growing season for leaves and pods. I don't have seeds currently but many places sell them online; moringa have good germination rates. For your climate, I recommend Mt. Edna fig varieties (like Black Marseilles, Chicago Hardy, and Red Lebanese Bekaa Valley) for maximum fruit set and a longer season. The ones I mention in a top 10 video excel in 9B Phoenix but your climate is cooler/ different where other varieties are better suited like the ones listed above.

Thank you! Quince are amazing fruit; they thrive in cool climates and do well in high heat. The internet is not too reliable on reported chill. All I can say is the variety I grow (labeled as Smyrna) fruits very well even at 100 chill hours. Perhaps try one out!

@@EnlightenmentGarden will try and find a corner in my yard for a Smyrna quince!

Thanks for the comments! I too believe there are fig varieties floating around with different names. And yes, I remove the skin on my suebelle for maximum sweetness as it does carry some bitterness.

The LSU Purple was in the ground there for 7 years at top-working with this video. I top-worked it much earlier at 3 years with other varieties. Grafting is how I trial fig varieties with little time and commitment. It's not the most vigorous rootstock being a dwarf but I wanted to take advantage of the existing root structure. For more vigor, a standard-size fig variety is best for rootstock. I guess this proves that even slow growers like LSU Purple work out in the event top-working is needed or desired.

That's great! If you need more, you can just get out a reciprocating saw to divide up those clumps, and plant

You are welcome!

Glad it helps! No need to protect a mature fig tree from wind. If you recently planted a fig tree then I would just recommend double-staking it so windy conditions don't break /damage it. Otherwise, the wind does not bother fig trees.

@EnlightenmentGarden Just about to plant a black turkey! Had a different one last year. It budded but thry dried up. I got leaves at the base but the sun burnt them up. Hoping for better luck with your help!!! Thank you!!!

The widely available brown turkey and black mission are not the best. I no longer grow either based on experience. Perhaps try Chicago Hardy; I think you'll be pleased with high production and vigor.

That's great to hear! It's still a good performer for me also.

Thanks--glad it helps!

Appreciate the kind words and you are welcome!

My solo watering container is 2 quarts so that's approximately how much volume I put down each week into each container along with the diluted water soluble fertilizer. Once the plants leaf out, they'll need water more often. I think I touch on that in the next video in the series but I recommend picking up a plant and record the weight of a fully moistened pot. You will get a feel for when it's less than 50% of the fully moistened weight. That was my signal to apply another watering at the same 2 quart volume.

@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks for the reply. I try to remember everything in your videos, I've seen them all, but forget I guess. I did weigh them when they seemed fully moistened at 800grams. Then again a couple weeks later with some bottom watering & they went to 870 grams. I guess patience is what I need most. Sincerely, Matthew

@@MatthewsFabrication They are pretty forgiving so the moisture does not have to be an exact %. I forgot myself and was mistaken. It was a 2 quart container for the water. I corrected my comment above. Happy growing!

​@EnlightenmentGarden So it's been 4 weeks as of yesterday. I gently pushed & removed a Panache cutting with no growth whatsoever & it has a Massive amount of roots all over & some starting to go up the 4x9 tree pot. So I'm guessing any day or week now it'll start pushing growth 🤞🏻

@@MatthewsFabrication That's awesome! Yes should be soon

Sorry if these dual terms caused confusion. In botany, a tree is a perennial plant. I'm using both terms and both are acceptable

Thanks! You face a harder climate with high consistent humidity because of the potential disease that brings. I'm sorry I can't help more with that but just don't have the experience. You may have to do more treatments with fungicides to keep them looking their best if facing issues like powdery mildew and anthracnose. Perhaps look into varieties that are adapted to high humidity and may do better in your climate

Appreciate it! My Key lime is also mostly in the shade and is loaded up with fruit. Yes; the pomegranates are all in full blazing sun nearly all day. That causes some of the pomegranates to burn that are more exposed but I found a good trick is to spray the fruit with Kaolin clay to protect the skin and reduce sun damage. It also wards off leaf-footed bugs. I only bag the fruit in late summer to prevent bird damage. Plants are very adaptive so I would not be surprised if pomegranates could also produce well in partial shade as long as the pollinators were still in full force for fruit set

@@EnlightenmentGarden I have 2 poms planted in what is full sun now, but once the trees around them grow larger they will be in filtered sun. Will be interesting to see if they fruit!

In my experience, honey figs require more humidity than other varieties. Yellow Long Neck and Nixon Peace are the exception and do well even in dry heat. Perhaps try giving your Peter's Honey some shade and consistent water to see if it improves. If not, it may be a great contender for top-working. My LSU Champagne never produced a single good fig but is the best rootstock I could ask for.

@EnlightenmentGarden Thanks for your response. I did add supplemental with an every other day watering in addition to every 4 day 2 hour drip. There were lots of fruit,but they never matured like it was not getting enough water. However, i saw no change after i supplemted the water.it was planted in Oct 2021. It will be a Frankenfig next year. Every You tuber , like you, recommends cutting /pruning all the rootstock away to allow all the grafts to take. Does this mean all grafting has to be done in the same season? Thanks, I really enjoy your channel.

Peters Honey is not a great variety for dry climates. Nixon Peace and YLN are the only honey-type varieties I recommend for a desert climate like mine. No; not necessarily, but leaving rootstock means introducing competition for your grafts. I prefer to have none and give the grafts all the energy possible. See what happens when you graft every branch on rootstock versus not. If your experience is like mine, it will be night and day and your grafts will thrive.

I sell fig cuttings from my trees on my Etsy store (online) every January. I usually announce on the channel just before sales start

@@EnlightenmentGarden Thank you!

Thanks and you are welcome!

You are welcome and glad it helps! Thanks for the feedback on the chaya; glad to hear it will come back. I'm impressed how fast those plants grow.

You are welcome! I recommend getting and planting a well-rooted 1-gallon vetiver plant rather than a small slip with few roots. The well-rooted plant has a better chance of establishing quickly and taking off. As you saw in the video, I planted them in full sun; they don't need any shade but can tolerate it. I water them daily in the summer.

Thanks for sharing your experience and options. I'm unfamiliar with the varieties you mentioned but will have to look into them. Happy growing!

Thanks, Jay! Appreciate the kind words.

Thanks!

They were all labeled as edulis except for one machete I got from Green Dreams (that I forgot to show). I may have the feuilleei growing here as I notice stark differences in the format and bark of the various Inga I have growing. Some exhibit a thick stout structure with brown bark and others with a thinner upright structure with greyish bark. It usually takes at least 4 years for fruit and I'm only at year 2; time and extreme lows may help distinguish in the next few years.

@ May the best ice cream bean win enlightenment gardener. May the best beany win.

Glad you enjoyed it! Definitely a good thing to harvest most of your sweet potato this year. I harvested around 100lbs to clear out the space and they are still popping up. You have selected excellent persimmon varieties! Happy fall!

Yes; I read the same thing about 8 years ago and was hesitant to plant one in my yard. If planted in the middle of one's yard with nothing nearby as a young sapling (under a year old), it could definitely die from frost. Outside of that, they seem to do just fine here. I have never had to frost protect a curry leaf at my property. In 2019, my yard saw back-to-back mid-20s for a week and the curry leaf did not burn or defoliate. It's a rockstar in the extremes of summer and winter for me.

Hi! Thank you for the sub. I purchased the plant id labels from a shop on Etsy and did a video with all the details and links called “Durable Plastic Plant Tags for Harsh Climates”. I get all my irrigation supplies from an online shop called “Drip Depot.” Ironically I just posted a video all about my irrigation including the spot irrigation emitters called “Emitter Types and Maintaining Landscape Irrigation.” Please use the search in my videos tab to find the past videos. The colors indicate different flow rates (GPH). When you shop online for the emitters, they will provide the details on what color represents each flow rate. There is no recipe for what emitter I use for a type of tree. It can vary on so many factors but in general, I am trying to saturate the root zone /soil around each plant at each watering to a depth of 1-2’. I experiment with different emitters until I find one that achieves the goal. It’s a complex topic; my irrigation playlist should help answer a lot of your questions. My city water is between 80-90 degrees out of the tap in summer so the roses that are on drip get watered at 1am-3am when it is cooler. I avoid using standard drippers because the water coming through them can scald the roots. Other than roses, all the emitters I use are sprayers. The water cools as the water is sprayed through the air. The spray emitters not only lower the water temperature before it hits the ground but also cause evaporation which adds humidity to the air near the plants which the plants love.

​@@handle1603 You are welcome! My Barbados cherry took 18 months to fruit from a planted 3-gallon. Your tree should start bearing cherries in year 3. Re-planting will really set the tree back. Instead, I recommend root excavation on your Oro Blanca. An arborist should be able to provide that service if you are unsure of how to do it. Removing the dirt that is smothering the plant is necessary for the long-term health of the tree to prevent collar rot and girdling roots. Hope that helps!

Yes; you can likely get a better deal from a local nursery if you buy now as this is the off-growing season. They may even be larger than the stock you will find in spring. I did the same thing with my first one and kept it in the container over winter and planted it in the ground in spring. I would definitely bring the plant into your garage when temperatures approach freezing. Green Life Nursery in Phoenix often carries them and have various sizes

​@@EnlightenmentGarden appreciate your response thank you!

Thanks! I have tried the perennial peanut and unfortunately could not get it to grow in my area. Perhaps too hot and dry here. I'll have to give the sunshine mimosa a try next spring. Is it best to start from a rooted plant or plant seeds?

I recently did a video on irrigation maintenance and touched on this topic. I stopped watering multiple times daily when our highs went below 100 degrees. I am watering around the same volume of gallons (or slightly less) for most plants currently but spacing out watering every 2-3 days. I'll drop to once a week when our lows are consistently below 50. This week and last was unusually cold but I would not be surprised if our lows and highs jump back up to the normal range for November in a week so it probably will not be until December that I go down to once per week. With any measurable rain, I will skip irrigation this time of the year