Ah, playing it safe.

Have fun and safe riding!

That’s what we’ve heard.

It is a standard crimping tool. You will have to decide how much of the pad to cut, but it must match the resistance that the computer is looking for, and that can be checked by comparing to the OEM part.

@3ftDeepChannel I have a tiger 900 GT. Can you tell me how much you cut? When measuring the resistance on the pad between black/red and black/yellow, it's exactly the same! I was under the impression that they are two separate elements. I was going to use the whole pad but connect it to red. Thanks

If it’s all one circuit, you can’t cut anything. We were able to cut ours, as there were two different circuits, each one with 9 ohms resistance. Hold your pad up to the light and follow the track and see if there are one or two tracks.

@3ftDeepChannel I have the exact same pad from your video. Also fitting to the same bike. There are two circuits, one from the red wire runs all the way and the yellow halfway. I just want to know how much to cut in order to get the correct resistance. Thanks

If you have the same pad, I would cut in the same spot we do. Use the black and yellow wires, and follow the heating coil that uses them, making sure that when you cut you don’t cut through that element. You discard the element using the red and yellow wire circuit. I can’t say exactly where the cut goes, but you should be able to deduce it like we did by tracing the wires.

Have fun!

You should inspect your pump once a year. If you use your machine a lot, like more than 80 hours a year, you may want to do it more often. Usually there are no signs of any issues until it fails catastrophically. The damage resulting can be extensive and expensive. Good luck.

@ ok thank you so when I inspect it look for rust and spin impeller to listen to bearing? Anything else??

And repack grease if needed?

The main thing is to ensure that there is absolutely no water in the pump. If there is, then you need to evacuate the grease and look for any signs of rust and replace any rusty parts and the seals that are allowing water intrusion. If not, you can just repack it with grease.

Bizimki 9 ohmdu

@@3ftDeepChannel okey. Peki yolcunun ?

Yolcu koltuğu ısıtılmıyor.

Obrigado

Greetings from Canada!

Not sure, but I wouldn’t do that.

In my part of the world the dealership always installs accessories after they receive the vehicle. They usually charge labor to install them, too. If you can, try to negotiate the labor to install your accessory/ies. Good luck and safe riding!

Thanks for your advice.

Pretty sure, but not 100% positive.

Fair enough. Thanks for your comment.

Why would you worry about that? The engine coolant is full of antifreeze on a closed loop system 30 seconds is not going to heat up the motor to cause any cracked heads. Besides you are removing any leftover water in the exhaust system to prevent damage from freezing, If you are "running water thru it" how would you remove water from it?

Correct. The exhaust gets very hot very quickly when no water is running through it. I think that’s his point. Also, the carbon ring heats up very quickly when not submerged in water.

@3ftDeepChannel I feel I can never be too cautious with those silly carbon seals. Terrifying how quickly you can lose a ski if one fails on the water. Again, my comment was not in any way trying to be rude, as this is by far the best and most in depth video of a winterization I've ever seen, I'm more or less saying how I'm too nervous to run my ski without water for anything more than 5 seconds, haha. Incredible video, honestly!

@ralphhuff5912 The coolant doesn't cool the exhaust, carbon seal, or pump bearings. It only cools the engine. The pump sucks water up and through all those other components to keep it cool, and when you run it without water, they heat up very quickly. Even on a hose the manual states not to run it for more than 60 seconds. And you don't necessarily need to remove all the water if you're putting antifreeze in it, that's the whole point of putting antifreeze in it. Believe it or not, the manuals actually say nothing about putting antifreeze into the flush port for winter, and ONLY say you need to blow out the port with compressed air! Putting antifreeze in it is just a second line of defense against our pesky winters! I personally also put antifreeze in it just in case.

Sorry, I can’t recall which type of socket we used. I don’t think it was a deep well socket, though. You can check what type of screw it is by going onto Sea-Doo’s parts diagram for your machine year and model. It’s on their website under “Parts Catalog”. Good luck.

It definitely needs to go straight up and down. Machines are all different and there is not mandatory place to place it. If you can find a nice, safe, secure place for it then feel free to use that instead. Good luck.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Only extremely temporarily

Doesn't matter for this test.

Could be. We actually put three coats to make sure it was fully covered, but you may have hit the nail on the head. Still, I think next time we’ll leave it to the professionals.

It shouldn't rust if you keep the tank full and use ethonal free gasoline. Would having the tank galvanized be better?

@MarthaGomez-h3o Yes, but when you buy a used bike, you get it as is. Also, much older tanks will naturally start rusting. I believe fuel tanks can be galvanized and it’s probably better than coating it with paint. Not sure how it compares to epoxy, though.

They use an epoxy that is not easy to use and quite toxic. I believe there’s a subtle insult in your question.

@@3ftDeepChannel no,not an insult,just a genuine question but I do think the whole chemical thing revolves around cleanliness and perfect conditions to apply any liner( I’ve got a bike that’s almost 100 years old and I’m still thinking of using the original tank without liners as I’ve heard so much about failure surrounding liners, 👍🏻

Good luck with your project.

Hey, thanks!

Blame KZbin free music.

It depends on your machine. Probably every 3 years, but check your Owner’s Manual. It will say in there.

By “metal basket” are you referring to the iBR?

@@3ftDeepChannel probably, don’t know what ibr is

That’s the big metal bucket at the back that drops down for braking and reverse.

They leverage the power in that when taking down wildebeest at the river bank. Incredible power.

Thanks very much, Chris!

Not a complete one, sorry. We did post this below the video, though …Materials list: Frame: 1 pc 8' 6x6 (or 4x4); 2 pcs 8' 2x4; 1 pc 8' 2x10; 4 pcs 3/16" 9" to 12" long straight brackets; 12 pcs 2.5" long 5/16" lag screws; 2 pcs 1/4" 3.5" long eye hooks; 28 pcs 3.5" 5/16" lag bolts; 56 pcs 5/16" flat washers; Bunks: 4 Loadrite light duty bunk swivel brackets; 1'x12' pc. trailer or outdoor carpet; 1/2" staples; 8 pcs 1.5" long 1/4" lag screws; 4 pcs. 1.5" long 1/2" bolts; 4 pcs 1/2" flat washers; 4 pcs 1/2" lock washers; 4 pcs 1/2" nuts; 1 pc 10' 2x4; Casters: 4 casters (rated at least 500 lbs each; www.amazon.com/gp/product... 16 pcs 3" long 5/16" lag screws; 16 pcs 5/16" flat washers.

@@3ftDeepChannel Where did you purchase your loadrite swivel brackets? I can’t find them from anywhere that doesn’t destroy the wallet on shipping.

I believe it was Home Depot. It was a few years ago now, though.

As long as it’s secure and legal.

We don’t think so.

@@3ftDeepChannel I think so.

O ye of little faith!

Which joint? The ball joint?

@@3ftDeepChannel Its the silver joint that connect on the cable right after the hexnut.

Hmm. Have you tried some good penetrating oil (i.e. NOT WD-40)? Apply some and let that sit for at least 24 hours and reapply, if necessary. If that doesn’t work, a little heat and some muscle with a set of good quality wrenches usually works. Good luck.

@@3ftDeepChannel thanks these are great tips, will report back !

Yep. Until it fails. Then you try to flag someone down for help and spend all the $$$ you saved and much more, at that time.

@@3ftDeepChannel why would it fail?? Fill up the tank up, fuel stabilizer, new plugs and oil change in the spring, even if that?? Especially if it’s in an insulated garage you don’t need all that nonsense.

The enemy is salt water. If you don’t ride in salt water then it’s not such a big deal. If you do, however, it needs intensive care before being put away.

I used an adjustable pin wrench similar to this www.amazon.ca/Grinder-Adjustable-Spanner-Lock-Nut-Grinders/dp/B07FPGVXTQ?th=1

That would be fine. One person can do the job. You will have a continuous flow when you screw in the drain, as that is the lowest point and it’ll keep flowing until most of the coolant is gone.

The OEM quality is totally satisfactory.

Sorry, but Amazon severed all our links to products. You can buy many of the tools at SBT or directly from Sea-Doo. Good luck.

That’s a different video.

Ours came from a local Triumph dealer.

Thanks. We actually showed the entire process. The needle bearings are applied to the grease on the shaft to get them to stick around the shaft (we put them on in sections; there are lots of them). The drive gear them slides over them and will rotate over the bearings surface. Needle bearings provide a wide bearing surface as they are not spherical, but instead are cylindrical.

How did you end up dealing with it?

@@3ftDeepChannel When I saw it , I used a special glue. Before, I used cooler-tight what helped to get me home from Scotland and Norway. Both tours were a torture. Now, I have a GSX 1100 F. No aluminum, no watercooling , no ECU and no hided alternator. The alternator was the first thing, that broke down after I bought the bike.

A great idea for a video!

Lo siento pero vendimos el barco y no sabemos la medida.

Hey, thanks!

I don’t see why not. But it would work far better if there was liquid in the system, as air is highly compressible and wouldn’t be as accurate.