The indicators in the video are the original Triumph ones that came on the bike when new the North American market got the large round ones the European market got the slimmer indicators.

Thank you

Thanks!

Thanks, Robert. We try.

Thanks for the advice, Ives.

Agreed. The owner of the rental shop said he maintained the machines regularly. Of course, they were only two years old.

The block went to a machine shop to check cylinder to piston clearances the clearances were within spec so the cylinders got a light hone and new piston rings. The head was checked for warping it was within spec so no need to re surface the head just clean up of the gasket surface before re assembly.

Safe riding!

I don't have a problem with the face numbers the only time I find the new dials a little hard to read is in bright sunlight the back lit neutral, indicator and high beam lights could be brighter.

I suggest you call your dealer. They will have the information you need.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear our videos have helped you out! Yikes, if the iBR actuator is stuck that may be a difficult situation. I haven’t dealt with that before but you may need to unbolt the actuator (a pain in the neck job) and free it up that way. Someone may have a better suggestion, but that’s probably where we’d end up. Good luck!

Not on this year, make and model. It just runs.

@3ftDeepChannel 2023 model, is it just plug and play?

Sorry, I don’t know. I suggest you check with your dealer.

@@3ftDeepChannel ok thanks bro

Safe riding.

Thanks, Andrew. I do, too!

I’m not sure what you mean by your question. Where are you measuring the voltage from? I would make absolutely sure your connector is put on properly and that you have the right wiring.

The license plate where we live goes on the back of the bike and is unaffected with this installation. Sorry, no picture.

We’ve never put on a mask to do this. We always just reach under and clear as best we can. I still don’t trust Sea-Doo’s new clearing mechanism and avoid buying any machine with it. Lots more points of failure as far as I’m concerned.

@ I agree . I won’t purchase a Sea Doo again as I love my KAWASKI. Are you saying with that "de-clogging" rod you can stand next to ski and reach underneath?

@SteveAppel-r2o No. It clogs up when riding. You need to get off the Ski and into the water. Usually, with one hand on the rail you submerge your head and reach underneath (while holding your breath) and unclog it that way. If you’re near shore, we would normally drag it part way up the beach, lean it over and use it while standing on the shore.

@@3ftDeepChannel got it. Great explanation and I now understand. Thanks very much for managing my expectations. I just found a large rock in impeller now that my ski is in garage and I can get underneath. Will fabricate you rod as it looks like an invaluable tool to have on hand, thanks again

It’s come in very handy many times. Good luck!

Hey, thanks for the kind words. We keep it in the front compartment. There’s plenty of room for it there in a Sea-Doo. Save riding!

Sorry, I don’t know the answer to that question.

I think it's called a tri wing bit the one I have came with the throttle spacer kit it's marked S2 Y3, I hope this helps.

Ah, playing it safe.

Have fun and safe riding!

That’s what we’ve heard.

It is a standard crimping tool. You will have to decide how much of the pad to cut, but it must match the resistance that the computer is looking for, and that can be checked by comparing to the OEM part.

@3ftDeepChannel I have a tiger 900 GT. Can you tell me how much you cut? When measuring the resistance on the pad between black/red and black/yellow, it's exactly the same! I was under the impression that they are two separate elements. I was going to use the whole pad but connect it to red. Thanks

If it’s all one circuit, you can’t cut anything. We were able to cut ours, as there were two different circuits, each one with 9 ohms resistance. Hold your pad up to the light and follow the track and see if there are one or two tracks.

@3ftDeepChannel I have the exact same pad from your video. Also fitting to the same bike. There are two circuits, one from the red wire runs all the way and the yellow halfway. I just want to know how much to cut in order to get the correct resistance. Thanks

If you have the same pad, I would cut in the same spot we do. Use the black and yellow wires, and follow the heating coil that uses them, making sure that when you cut you don’t cut through that element. You discard the element using the red and yellow wire circuit. I can’t say exactly where the cut goes, but you should be able to deduce it like we did by tracing the wires.

Have fun!

You should inspect your pump once a year. If you use your machine a lot, like more than 80 hours a year, you may want to do it more often. Usually there are no signs of any issues until it fails catastrophically. The damage resulting can be extensive and expensive. Good luck.

@ ok thank you so when I inspect it look for rust and spin impeller to listen to bearing? Anything else??

And repack grease if needed?

The main thing is to ensure that there is absolutely no water in the pump. If there is, then you need to evacuate the grease and look for any signs of rust and replace any rusty parts and the seals that are allowing water intrusion. If not, you can just repack it with grease.

Bizimki 9 ohmdu

@@3ftDeepChannel okey. Peki yolcunun ?

Yolcu koltuğu ısıtılmıyor.

@@3ftDeepChannel6 ohm kullansak nasıl bir sonuç doğurur?

Bilgisayar muhtemelen onu tanımayacak.

Obrigado

Greetings from Canada!

Not sure, but I wouldn’t do that.

In my part of the world the dealership always installs accessories after they receive the vehicle. They usually charge labor to install them, too. If you can, try to negotiate the labor to install your accessory/ies. Good luck and safe riding!

Thanks for your advice.

Pretty sure, but not 100% positive.

Fair enough. Thanks for your comment.

Why would you worry about that? The engine coolant is full of antifreeze on a closed loop system 30 seconds is not going to heat up the motor to cause any cracked heads. Besides you are removing any leftover water in the exhaust system to prevent damage from freezing, If you are "running water thru it" how would you remove water from it?

Correct. The exhaust gets very hot very quickly when no water is running through it. I think that’s his point. Also, the carbon ring heats up very quickly when not submerged in water.

@3ftDeepChannel I feel I can never be too cautious with those silly carbon seals. Terrifying how quickly you can lose a ski if one fails on the water. Again, my comment was not in any way trying to be rude, as this is by far the best and most in depth video of a winterization I've ever seen, I'm more or less saying how I'm too nervous to run my ski without water for anything more than 5 seconds, haha. Incredible video, honestly!

@ralphhuff5912 The coolant doesn't cool the exhaust, carbon seal, or pump bearings. It only cools the engine. The pump sucks water up and through all those other components to keep it cool, and when you run it without water, they heat up very quickly. Even on a hose the manual states not to run it for more than 60 seconds. And you don't necessarily need to remove all the water if you're putting antifreeze in it, that's the whole point of putting antifreeze in it. Believe it or not, the manuals actually say nothing about putting antifreeze into the flush port for winter, and ONLY say you need to blow out the port with compressed air! Putting antifreeze in it is just a second line of defense against our pesky winters! I personally also put antifreeze in it just in case.

Sorry, I can’t recall which type of socket we used. I don’t think it was a deep well socket, though. You can check what type of screw it is by going onto Sea-Doo’s parts diagram for your machine year and model. It’s on their website under “Parts Catalog”. Good luck.

It definitely needs to go straight up and down. Machines are all different and there is not mandatory place to place it. If you can find a nice, safe, secure place for it then feel free to use that instead. Good luck.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Only extremely temporarily

Doesn't matter for this test.

Could be. We actually put three coats to make sure it was fully covered, but you may have hit the nail on the head. Still, I think next time we’ll leave it to the professionals.

It shouldn't rust if you keep the tank full and use ethonal free gasoline. Would having the tank galvanized be better?

@MarthaGomez-h3o Yes, but when you buy a used bike, you get it as is. Also, much older tanks will naturally start rusting. I believe fuel tanks can be galvanized and it’s probably better than coating it with paint. Not sure how it compares to epoxy, though.

They use an epoxy that is not easy to use and quite toxic. I believe there’s a subtle insult in your question.

@@3ftDeepChannel no,not an insult,just a genuine question but I do think the whole chemical thing revolves around cleanliness and perfect conditions to apply any liner( I’ve got a bike that’s almost 100 years old and I’m still thinking of using the original tank without liners as I’ve heard so much about failure surrounding liners, 👍🏻

Good luck with your project.

Hey, thanks!

Blame KZbin free music.

It depends on your machine. Probably every 3 years, but check your Owner’s Manual. It will say in there.

By “metal basket” are you referring to the iBR?

@@3ftDeepChannel probably, don’t know what ibr is

That’s the big metal bucket at the back that drops down for braking and reverse.

They leverage the power in that when taking down wildebeest at the river bank. Incredible power.

Thanks very much, Chris!

Not a complete one, sorry. We did post this below the video, though …Materials list: Frame: 1 pc 8' 6x6 (or 4x4); 2 pcs 8' 2x4; 1 pc 8' 2x10; 4 pcs 3/16" 9" to 12" long straight brackets; 12 pcs 2.5" long 5/16" lag screws; 2 pcs 1/4" 3.5" long eye hooks; 28 pcs 3.5" 5/16" lag bolts; 56 pcs 5/16" flat washers; Bunks: 4 Loadrite light duty bunk swivel brackets; 1'x12' pc. trailer or outdoor carpet; 1/2" staples; 8 pcs 1.5" long 1/4" lag screws; 4 pcs. 1.5" long 1/2" bolts; 4 pcs 1/2" flat washers; 4 pcs 1/2" lock washers; 4 pcs 1/2" nuts; 1 pc 10' 2x4; Casters: 4 casters (rated at least 500 lbs each; www.amazon.com/gp/product... 16 pcs 3" long 5/16" lag screws; 16 pcs 5/16" flat washers.

@@3ftDeepChannel Where did you purchase your loadrite swivel brackets? I can’t find them from anywhere that doesn’t destroy the wallet on shipping.

I believe it was Home Depot. It was a few years ago now, though.