The chain size is #40, that is what the sprocket on the centrifugal clutch is. The tractor transmission input shaft sprocket is 54 tooth, the clutch sprocket is about 15 tooth, that works out to about 1000 rpm on the transmission input shaft, the original engine was rated at 1500, so the speed is about 2/3 of what it would be originally. The engine has a 1 inch shaft, the clutch slides onto that, I think the outer diameter of the clutch is about 4 1/2 inches The parts all came from Princess Auto.

@@RattieRanch Do you have the part number for the 54-tooth sprocket?

@@HomerKM1914 I think it is Princess Auto Item number 3844081. For some reason they seem to be on clearance now.

@@RattieRanch What size is the shaft on the Massey? 1.5"? Part number for the weld on hub? Part number of the clutch?

@@RattieRanch What is the tractor's shaft size?

Thank you for that write up. I did get manuals off ebay, and most parts are either off the shelf bearings or are not too difficult to make.

@@RattieRanch there’s the Floyd county museum in Charles city Iowa (which is where Oliver was head quartered) and they have every manual for every piece of Oliver and cockshutt equipment you could want

I have not made any cardboard models of it, I should draw up some dimensions. What model of loader do you have to make a quick attach for? If I were doing this again I would certainly make it skid steer quick attach style, that would not have been much more work and it would be easier to use and much more versatile and add less distance to the distance between the loader pivot pin and the attachment. I should also note though that this pin grabber quick attach has been in regular use for years now and has held up just fine except for when I came in to an attachment with the loader too low once with the latch handles up and bent one.

@@RattieRanch I have a 236 loader on a MF 390T. I bought the tractor and loader just to stack round bales of hay. But changing from a bucket to a spear is a big job. Your design is perfect, however, I may just slide in the lower bucket pin rather than the very clever latching system you designed. I don't weld, so I need a final design to give to my welder. He runs a great bead, but is not a designer, so he needs a good and precise drawing and a mockup to help him visualize the project. I can not drive the tractor to him. I am an engineer but don't weld. Since you have made a good working model, I hoped you could find the old wooden templates and make a cardboard copy for me. That negates my need for lots of trial and error work making a template. I thought about the skid steer design but just don't need to spend that much money or add more "junk" around the farm. Thanks for the quick reply. You do great work. Thanks for sharing.

After further consideration, I wonder if you could just supply a few dimensions, especially the length (height) of the plates and the spacing of the holes. Your video has been vey very helpful. My concerns are about contact conflicts. Many thanks.

@@edwardroggenkamp8838 I have a few drawings I can try to find. If it would help I can do a walk around video with measurements in a few days.

@@edwardroggenkamp8838 I was planning originally on just putting pins in the bottom, but then for some reason went with this complicated latch system instead. Pins would be just fine, and many others have been made that way. Almost anything is better than the four pins that never line up system that is original. Just wondering where abouts you are, if you happened to be in the area and wanted to look let me know.

What to you mean by the auger boots? The base of the unload auger? That was a job alright, cut off about 18 inches from the auger where it was very rusty at the end, removed the base piece and bevel gears, formed a flat piece of 18 gauge to mostly round, welded it on to the rest of the auger tube and on to the auger pivot base and then caulked all the seams and put it back together. I remember it was tricky to keep everything lined up correctly.

It is time for a repaint. I think I would use a different color the way things are now.

The local CIH dealer had them on the shelf. Unfortunately that was long enough ago I do not have the bearing box or any other recollections of the bearing. The nuts at the end of the shafts were hard to get off and it is important to tighten them often after reinstalling them.

I do not have a manual for this seed drill and I do not know the model of it either. I wish I knew where to find one but it seems the models changed frequently and are not well documented. I will write more thoughts on the rebuild later.

Some of the grain is in feed sacks or barrels with a cover, some more in make shift miniature grain bins. I should do a video on storing and milling and mixing for food and feed. Good luck in your combine acquisitions and adventures.

Yes the repowered Massey Harris 33 is still going just fine.

It is a Massey Harris 33 with a Honda clone engine.

@@RattieRanch that's so interesting never thought one of those engines could do that.

I am not familiar with a 282, are the hydraulics for the loader from the transmission/3 point/remote valves, or are they a front hydraulic pump on the front of the engine?

Plowing deeper than a few inches here brings up a lot of rocks and clay.

I have not had a problem and I am not aware of it causing anyone a problem.