hi, just wondering if you were to spray with satin black paint would you need anything else after that?

Do they offer colors like red ?

G'day Dave, Gav here. Mate, you didn't mention anything about red oxide primer !! I'm doing WW2 vehicles, they all came out with red oxide primer or yellow zinc chromiate primer (which you can't use anymore due to it having toxic chemicals) and then painted in a single pack oil based enamel olive drab paint. I'm having a major issue with my paint not bonding to the red oxide primer. The first top cost paint I used was an acrylic enamel mixed by Dulux Inspirations at Nerang in Queensland....cost me $340 for their "Autosolv" brand custom made. I sprayed that and when it dried it just scratches off. Now the parts I sprayed need to be blasted again.....the red oxide primer applied was an industrial grade primer and done by Neumann's Coatings at Currumbin on the Gold Coast. You can literally scrape the paint off with a key but not take any primer off. Absolute waste of money for thst paint I was then recommended Protec's Camoflauge range Olive Drab, so I switched to Protec's PPG Enamel-Alkyd-DPP paint, which is what they supply to the Australian Defence Force. The primer I'm using is dulux Metalshield Red Oxide Primer out of their rattle cans. The primer has been used on a few hundred parts and ranges from a days drying time to a few years. I sprayed 2 costs out of the 400gm rattle can from Protec onto some parts...it played down nice, dried to a satin which was odd but was told it'll fade and go lustreless in the UV. Let it dry for three weeks and then bumped a part and again.....the bloody paint chipped off !!!! So I went back yesterday with the part thst chipped, scratched checked other parts and they too came off, and showed them photos as well as the part I brought with me and the Dulux primer. Nobody could tell me why the paint failed other than it being the red oxide primer from Dulux. Even after scuffing the primer, which was pretty much useless on cast metal parts, the paint just chips and scrapes off......WHAT THE HELL IS GOONG ON?? All the parts have been wire wheeled or sandblasted back to bare metal, wiped down with either brake cleaner/solvent or wax & grease remover, and then hit with the primer and put in storage ready for paint. It's like this brand of red oxide primer has some form of barrier to it because it seems not even their own Metalshield paints stay on without chipping off. So I have a grey etch primer from Protec to try an experiment with this weekend and have sprayed their olove drab onto the Jeeps body tub, which has the Neumann's primer, and see if it sticks. If it does then I'm assuming the Dulux primer has some weird property to it that stops paint bonding with it. What's your thoughts because Dulix customer service and Protec have no idea why two different types of paint from two different supplies won't bond with two different brands of primers.....the common denominator is thst they're red oxide primers.

Wonderful video I want to try and fix my car thank you very much

I thought If you’re spraying 2k base coat. You don’t need to use clear? I don’t understand the point of putting clear over 2k base when it doesn’t need it?

I am with you.great info for the beginner.its not as hard as people think.this is not factory spec time.been painting for 30 years.keep doing it.youll figure it out.bac in the day we had no choice. Dad.. you do it until it's right or would you rather a left hook .miss you Dad.😂😅.

How much would something like this cost?

i just tape over them, then use plastic hammers on the tape. The raised edges will cut the tape, carefully remove the tape, paint as normal then remove the tape from the letters. You can even paint the letters a different colour first if you want.

is there 1 spray gun that will paint epoxy primer, base coat and clear? Thanks

can this be used on the plastic coil covers on the 2jz? Thanks for sharing

Congratulations for having one of the best you tube channèls

Should change the title from "How to fix peeling clear coat" to "painting a car". Good video and all, but was hoping to see something for to do with spot fixing rather than just sanding the whole car and repainting.

I have watched several videos on accomplishing this effect and this is definitely the way to do it. Thanks

Wow! What a transformation! ❤

You dont paint calipers, you powdercoat them because painting is never ever as durable as (proper) powdercoat.

Did the same with my intake manifold(subaru) but with candy paint 2k has survived the heat no issues cannot recomend 2k in a can for rocker covers, brake balipers and other small parts you want a nice durable high gloss finish on

Actually looks the same to me

Brilliant video as usual. 10/10

If only it was as easy as you make it look.😮

Great job. Does VG Autopaints do a 2k engine block kit? Thanks

Michelle, as well as having an actual job on her hands, she is also hot 👌. On a different note, this video will save me hours of work in the future as I used to use a sand block and sand all the layers off from the letters, all this after painting and curing 😭

Good 👌👍

I don't understand it as it's like witchcraft. But the end result looks amazing.

This is fantastic! Have you done a "Wrinkle finish" on a engine cover video? @customspraymods

Nice work.

Great video and the rocker cover came up mint!

I use the same clear coat cans on my carbon fiber parts that I order from China. They usually come with crappy clear, I sand it down, clean it, spray the clear and the carbon looks great.

as a professional pdr tech yall are idiots.

Good Job 👏 ! Good people 👍

Well I'm at a loss. I thought this wanting painting raised letters, not just just clear coating. Oh well - I'll stick to my method where I paint "PAINT COLOUR" on raised letters.

hell yea sr20 :D

Another advantage of using the 2k Clear is that it's more resistant to fuel and oils compared to 1k Clear!👌

This was single stage?

Ok

280k subs. Vid up for 40 minutes. And I'm first comment.

Edge primer over body filler? This guy is on crack.

I got to do that at school today just my class but it was a flop like we got foam but no where near as much our beaker didn’t even over flow😕

What if you have a hole going right through the hood, do you puta piece of fiber glass cloth over it first?

hey mate, where can I get that pouring cap that is on the adhesion promoter can? Is that the correct name? I am doing such a big mess every time I use thinners, hardeners, etc

Thank you so much for the clarification as a lot of other videos are not as clear and professional like this. Thank you so much. ❤

change your title

A real Wog wagon

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Thank you very much. I have learnt alot

Awesome work as always!

Hi Dave, this is gold for a noob, thanks a lot!

What chemicals you used sir?

What did you use to remove the clear ?

Fking nice I need help

Thanks for sharing bro, huge help.