Thanks for pointing that out. I'm no electronics expert, just good at researching and sorting the charf from the grain. Cheers

Love it. This opens my brownbuilt steel cabinet door from a meter away

If you have to ask if it's bare or enameled, then you shouldn't even be watching the video.

I think there is a comment about burning the enamel in the notes. Cheers

Check out this link on making the magnet recharger kzbin.info/www/bejne/nn7adJeXnJeDpJI

@@adambone4213 Thank you.

It is a re-magnetiser.

Not sure of the length but that doesn't seem long enough

I originally used another youtube video to get the concept and construction ideas. Unfortunately it seems the original post has been removed?? I verified the Lucas standards and did a ton of research at the time. I'm no electrical engineer but what you are saying makes sense. Either way, with the amps spread across both coils, you'll still end up with 65000 ampere turns. There is also no reson why you can't exceed the Lucas power specs. The windings could easily handle more amps as it only is on for a cpuple of seconds at a time. Can never have too much magnetism! Cheers

You are spot on, you could always have more. I just wanted to be sure I had at least the minimum. I have another video about increasing the voltage from a welder by removing coils. A few more volts increases tha amps via ohms law. Easy to bang it up to 100 000a/turns but I haven't had the need. I guess if you were trying to remagnetise some magnets in an old motor with some distance between the poles from the magneto charger and the 'in situ' magnets, this could be the option. The old ferite magnets from early motors and horseshoe magnets in general needed a 'return' strap across neg & pos to keep the charge while the magnets were out of the device. Bit hard to keep that strap in place when re-inserting the magnets. Charging 'in-situ' negates this problem. Hope I haven't woffled on too much. Thanks for your interest.

The post was for construction details. I have some videos of it in action if you are interested.

@@adambone4213 I would like to see it in action. Where can I see your videos?

@@rustyhoodphoto I made a video but there were some errors in it so I took it off. I'll make another at some stage when it comes out of storage, won't be anytime soon though, we are building a house

@@rustyhoodphoto Send over your email address and I'll give you the link explaining the issues with the vid. I'll make a new one down the track with correct info for public display

Yes it is. You could get away using half with twice the amps for the same output. I had to buy the whole spool of copper so I used as much of it as I could

Yup. No way around that if you want a serious magnet.❤

You might be waiting a while. I don't have access to my machines for some time

Can't rember exactly, was some time ago now. Somewhere around the AU$400 mark as a guess for parts and plenty of time & labour

Mostly ebay from the USA. Also had plenty of bikes to pick from, had 12 of them at one stage. Sold 5 runners off and the rest in parts. Got heaps of good spares but in a container at the moment. Be a year or so before I have access to them again

@@adambone4213 wow 12 of these?! Thats awesome. Keep me posted on whenever you get access to them, I’d love to buy some parts.

Engine number will equate to a year of manufacture. If you don't have a brass plate, sometimes these numbers are stamped on the crank somewhere. I don't have access to my info at the moment, stored on a container. Bit of research and you'll work it out

@@adambone4213 thanks adam , the serial number is 4938 on mine , its on the brass plate, so any idea of the year it was made, thank you so much, pd

This one is a 1927 model

Just look up star and delta wiring diagram on google images.

Check out this link kzbin.info/www/bejne/nn7adJeXnJeDpJI

It is hand wound. Quite large and relatively expensive. If you only want to remagnetise a couple of magnets, I recommend you get someone else to do it for you. Auto electrician, magneto restorer or maybe a vintage stationary engine club member. Whoever is trying to charge one end of a magnet at a time clearly doesn't understand the process, or in fact how a magnet works. A horseshoe magnet is basically a straight magnet bent into a 'U' shape. The rectifyer converts my power supply from AC to DC to simulate a battery. You need the north and south pole to remain the same, not alternate as per AC. If you are doing a one off and have acquired an electromagnet (coil with steel core), just a car battery or 2 in series would be an easy option. All the best

@@adambone4213 Thanks for your clarification! Have a great day!

Check out this link on making the magnet recharger kzbin.info/www/bejne/nn7adJeXnJeDpJI

Its a large capacitor, not a coil. Check out this link on making the magnet recharger kzbin.info/www/bejne/nn7adJeXnJeDpJI

I have scored a few crank guards to make them a 'little' safer

I agree!

It weighs a ton too. Opens my steel cupboard door from a meter away

Theoretically it only needs to be on for a split second to do the job but I leave it on for 2 to 3 seconds at a time just to be sure. It pulls my brownbuilt cupboard door open from 1 meter away

You only run it for 1-2 seconds at a time! The magnetism effect only takes milliseconds

#10 wire is nominally rated for 30 continuous amps, running in relatively loose conduit. Wound in a coil like this, the amps rating is much less... for _continuous_ running. For intermittent, momentary duty, such as for this magnetiser, #10 wire is quite satisfactory.

It's a $20 second hand welder dedicated for this purpose. I have a mig welder for actual welding

Yep, we know. It has been corrected. Thanks for your interest

first thing i saw..

I have successfully remagnetised many magnetos, both fixed and revolving magnet type

Adam Bone do you live in Sydney? I need a flywheel remagnetised if this is something that you do. Of course prepared to pay a reasonable price.

Sure. Call me on 04181999084

Yes, many!

Unfortunately no wiring diagram. 6 volts it is. The basic flow is the 2 wires from the lighting coil/alternator produce A.C. I lifted the one wire that goes to ground and extended that wire to come out a bridge rectifier. This effectively isolates the A.C. from the frame. The 2 wires run to a bridge rectifier to convert to D.C ( I had a couple of spare square 50amp bridge rectifiers but a 20amp one from Jaycar would be fine). This output runs via a battery, then to the key switch, then horn, lights and blinker relay utilising the original handlebar switch blocks. I used inline brake switches for brake lights (ebay items cut to length with new end 'T' pieces soldered back on). I also used 2 terminals on the key switch to earth out the ignition wire from the coil. The first position on the key switch brings the lights on, second is ignition & lights, third is ignition with no lights(saves battery). Good luck

correction to the previous post...50v 30amp bridge rectifier

Adam Bone thx that's what I was thinking to isolate the ac

I'm sure it is a little over engineered but that's the way I like it. You can do it!

I just wound 1000 turns on each, didn't weigh anything. I bought a spool (25kg?) from Regal, (formerly OBA) at Wetherill Park NSW. Cost a bunch, about $400. If I were to do it again I would go for 500 turns as there is less resistance and the welder output would easily handle the higher amp output to get the desired 65000 ampere turns. I did a lot of research into it all when I built it but at the end of the day the only important thing is reaching the required amps v/s turns (ie 500turns x 130amps). The unit is only on for 3 sec max at a time so any moderate size copper winding will do, say 14 awg or greater (2 to 3mm ideal). As far as the diameter of the iron core, I went for 3 inches but calculations indicated 2.5 inches would suffice. I am one to over engineer things. The additional iron doesn't detract from anything, just making sure the core doesn't get saturated. Hope this all helps. Always great to fire it up!

Nice. If you need any advise please do ask. Cheers - Adam

Nice. If you need any advise please do ask. Cheers - Adam

Cool thanks. I will be sure to ask if i am stumped on anything

Not enough, but great for keyways

Thanks for your interest. I do have 1000 turns per pole as they are wired in parallel. You could half the amount of windings to 500 per pole and double the supply current to 130 amps to get the required 65,000 ampere turns. Any welder will easily supply that. As mentioned, the long length of wire in a 1000 turn coil creates a fair resistance so I had to up the output voltage of the supply welder to overcome the resistance (achieved by losing some windings from the primary coil of the welder). Main reason I went for the 1000 turns was I was a little concerned running a large current through the winding causing heat and a potential burn out although I'm sure I was being over cautious! The wire came from OBA which is now called Regal at Wetherill Park NSW but there and several stores around Australia. Number is 1300 888 853. Wasn't totally cheap though. Cheers - Adam

Yeah, have 1 thru to 4 burner. Lots of tilly lamps too. Love them

+Gideon Amir Doesn't actually have a number??

Yep. This was a full rebuild, bearings, seals, cylinder reconditioning etc