I just binge watched every episode. Great job with the welding! It must have been a nice feeling to put it all back together. Can’t wait to see it painted! My personal two favorite Midget colors is that mustard yellow and white. 👍

So if it works correctly the air bag light shouldn’t be illuminated at all even when u just open the ignition like the other lights ? Or is it supposed to to turn on temporarily

its looking good im excited to see it finished

Great help. I have a 1963 Midget that I am just starting on. It has been stripped down to the body. Need to build a rotisserie. Can one be built from wood ?

I have a 1993 Miata. The air bag just started flashing on and off when I drove it home from being detailed yesterday. Any suggestions. I live in Cincinnati area and would love to reach you directly if possible. Thank you.

Glad to see you back at. I'm with you about the the Cold. I've got a wood stove with a fan blowing on it. Ok for 30 degree days. Cluster & other projects slowing my motivation. Warmer days ahead lol Take your time now. You're working on the *Eye Catching* stuff that will show up after painting. You're Almost There. "Keep Pushin' On"

I cannot stand using Bondo. A friend of mine did a restoration on a Shelby KR 500. Just body tools. When he was done the body was perfect. Perfect body lines and gaps. He wanted to paint it and we all said no. He then clear coated it to show the exquisite body work

Thank you for your efforts to update us. I have wondered how your project was going. Looking good! (This *IS* the Bondo sculpting phase, after all...)

i gotta say using that dustless sanding block is like cheating. Where's the fun in that? i want to see you completely covered in dust.

Great to see you back on KZbin with the midget 👍 v-much enjoyed the video, keep up the good work.

Thanks so much for this! I have a White 93 NA as well and recently I've had a three blink code that turned into a four blink code and I'm worried it's going to blow a fuse. Do you have any suggestions? Looks like an s-sensor from what I've seen online but I'm not sure if I should buy a whole new module or what not. Thank you!

Hello need your favour please I m looking for front & back mudguards of this bike.

I have a white 93 NA, I'm the original owner. Kept it in the garage all this time. Mine has power steering and it's automatic. I just put a Cat Back exhaust in it along with a front grill and front air dam, some mud flaps and door sills. It sounds real sweet! I have the air bag issue as well. Took it into Mazada for a dignostic check several years ago. They no longer make that module and they set my car so the air bag light no longer blinks. Enjoy your Miata!

Is it point or converted into cdi?

Happy Birthday Mr. Rob. Glad to be a part of this restoration journey

Rob You have a lot of patience I watched videos from 2 years ago You documented the build perfectly

Did you order the seals through honda?

im having the same issue with mt 1988 Ford Ranger, it has been sitting for a few months without starting, thanks for giving me some great ideas to work with.

the chrome just kinda dissapeared off the front in the middle of the video. did you just drill out the rivets to remove it?

Amazing progress in 2 years Rob. I'm still tearing down this body shell I bought and revisiting your episodes for advice and inspiration. Since mine had 3 floors (the rusty original sandwiched between 2 sheets of steel) almost all potential datum points had been melted along with 60% of the flanges. Currently the entire floor is out along with all of the rear bulkhead, the drivers side sills and the outer and front footwell panels. I braced the thing but I'm now pretty sure it was twisted before. When I dry fit the outer footwell panel and inner sill and position them at a right angle and lined up with the A post tab (which as you found is a slow job to drill all the spot welds out) the jacking point is out by the best part of an inch, and if I use the jacking point as a datum and line everything up correctly the sill sticks out a half inch in front of where the front footwell panel should be! I'm now considering fitting a complete rear bulkhead to the back end of the car, dry fitting a whole floor to it and hoping it gives me reliable datum points to square everything up. Of course it may just fall apart if I have to remove the bracing bars! Ah well nothing ventured nothing gained and as you say gotta love the journey! Iain

Mr.Rob, nice to meet you. It was very helpful. thank you. I'm looking forward to the completion of MIDGET's restoration. I'm running MIDGET1500 in Japan. I'm always repairing some part. I will use this as a reference in the future. So you'll excuse me.

Great update Rob. Glad to see you're making some solid progress!

Since you have that door pretty level, consider a rubber sanding block, it'll be faster removing filler,and will give a better 'hand feel's for the high and low spots.120 or 150 grit when you're close then, hit it with primer, re-sand with a higher grit. that Bondo shrinks, LIGHT COAT application of glazing puddy too thick will cause paint to eventually crack cause it's thick primer. We used to call it, 'red lead glaze'. Doin a great job Bud !

Rob, That old 'bonnet'? ....tie a rope on the latch and use it for sled riding in the snow! Oh, yinz guys don't get snow like we get in PA. Lol

there will allways be a market for these little trucks.when maintained from the begining.they will run damn near forever.& parts are still widely available.& as simple as it gets mechanically.seen several with near 300k miles.usually highway commuter 2 wheel drives with 2.3 5 speeds.ford did their homework well on these.

This project is definitely worth the time, just hoping you don't lose interest in it, I did see the video on getting sand blasted and primered recently, so its now two weeks before Thanksgiving 2023 as I watch this. Should have that Midget on the road come Spring 2024 .... right! Lol Try to remember where all the nuts n' bolts are, and don't force the finish. Ya got too many man hours to rush to completion! Love the tenacity!

Yes a Rasp Is A Good Tool to remove filler at the start. Beside my Paint lab Experience, I have 10 yrs + in a Drop Forge as a QC Supervisor. HEARING isn't Emphasized enough on YT. Sound might not seem Loud enough to hurt your ears now -- It's The Long Term Effect -- When You Can't Hear what your Wife & Grandkids say to you when you turn 60+

Body filler and paint... Makes the welder I ain't ! That sure is tedious work you're doing, but it's definitely the right way to make it last! Enjoyable series you got going on. Thanks!

I think I missed it in your video, where did you order the quarter panels from?

Just caught this video, I know it's 2 years old, but just wanted to say, if you need any metal for your next project,... You can always get bed frames from Good Will, or thrift stores cheap! Sometimes double bed frames for $5 bucks queen frames for $15.

I always used a product in a gallon can called, wax and grease remover. Wipe the whole car down with a wet rag and finish it off with a dry one before you start sanding. Mix small amounts of filler at a time to fill the low spots THIN COATS. Check for flatness with a straight edge (steel rule from a combination square). Another tip, second coat of filler add a drop or two of food coloring, it'll help when you sand down to the first coat to see if its low or higher. That 5in block sander will give you better results for removing material in the curves flatter, rather than divots with the 16in sander. If you need to remove a lot of filler quicker, get a rasp file better known as a 'cheese grater' in the auto body world. It'll save a ton of sanding and paper. Last tip... Wear a good pair of ear muffs. That vacuum is louder than you think at long intervals. Sorry for going on, Happy for ya! Enjoy the journey!

Now the fun begins! Did I ever tell you how much I love block sanding? Your sandblasters did a great job. I know you're excited to get it to this phase.

haha that looks like mine

Im more of an NB Miata (or ND2) guy myself, but of course you can never go wrong with the classic NA! So much cool stuff you can do with that car. I love Mazda really in general. Great get!

Fuel pump should be on the engine block. Only sending unit in the tank.

Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your videos Rob. I subscribe to a few since I started work on my '71 and they all help to motivate me during the tough days but yours is the most informative. I watch them multiple times. Mine is a mess having had 2 PO's trying to restore it over the years. It had 3 floors and so much extra metal welded on top of rust that it weighed a ton! Its a lot lighter now but most of the flanges are gone so lots to do and seeing the detailed work you've done makes me believe I can do this. Anyway as you say you have to love the process!

Check that timing belt

I would just buy a new tank - new sending unit and replace that fuel line you blew on.

This is great, surprised you haven't got more views. Your work is really neat and you haven't cut corners like some others, it's an enjoyable watch. Currently restoring my Sprite in the UK which has seen a few too many salty roads in winter so it's been good to look at yours for reference which appears to have been kept in fairly original spec, panel wise.

This is great! Equipping the next generation.

You're right --- When you got that mocked up it does kinda look like a car again. lol Keep taking your time It's All adding up to One Fine Midget. Have you decided on a Color Yet? A lot of Red Little MGs out there. Of my Two Sprites & a Midget, two are Red. It doesn't look to me that these decrease in Value because not in Original color. I like something that not everyone else has. I seen some in a Darker Ocher color that looks nice. "Keep Pushin' On" Rob

Hey Rob --- Just Catching Up. Busy with Rider Mower Restores. *Nice Intro* !! Great Looking Vintage Bike. Funny how the only rust Is the battery tray? Not rust -- Battery acid corrosion. Common even on the Mowers I do. *Spilled Milk* now but next time soak the entire tray in a Baking Soda -- Water solution to neutralize the Acid first for 15mins or so. Anything you used, wire wheels & brushes will soon start decaying too. Acid is still on it no matter how Cleaned it looked before painting it, for Much better paint adhesion. Keep an old plastic Windex or cleaning bottle around of the solution to spray on your tools & bench. They'll dry off quickly. The Rust acid dust you created will harm things that it fell on also.... Remember: 26yrs in a Paint Lab, now retired LOL "just sayin" Now on to your Next Video. Your Son will be Happy -- Take Care Dad

I sure hope more motorcycle videos are to come!

Great to see another video posted up 👍 I liked the pragmatic approach to filling a hole with weld and then shaping… Keep up the good work…

Thanks so much for all your videos Rob. I have exactly the same model Midget (and color) that I've started on and your first-hand experience is saving me a lot of time!

Looks great, Rob. I'm looking forward to you being able to drive the car and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Is that what you call winging it? You've come a long way, Rob. You're really spreading your wings. You'd make a good wing man. OK, I'll go away, now.

That repair is looking flawless!

Those things are bulletproof !! Greatt little bke / I had the CD200 Benly , same engine . I used it for my job as a courier every day for a few years . You can get new rollers and springs for the sprag clutch from Honda . I had to do mine once .