Looks like the same bodgey design as the Scheppach DP16SL I'm about to send back. The table wobbles left and right as you try and move it up and down, you have to take the thing apart just to change the gearing and the teeth for the table rotate around the shaft instead of staying fixed in place - which only makes the table wobble even worse! I did grease mine due to the scraping of metal on metal and it made the table wobble even worse again. The Scheppach was "made in Germany" as well - only it cost me £200 and didn't even power on! Total junk!

Good concept. However I would suggest to make it toolsfree as possible.. try using wingnuts or knobs.... And I would really suggest that the router doing the x y movement and the other side where the work piece goes should have parallel up and down movement. This way we can clamp bigger work piece and where the cutting is being made will always be visible

Great video and all the info I wanted

Just what I wanted to know. Picking my 1020 watt router later today. Shocked to hear you have to press the button down all the time while using it in the standard way. New one on me, especially as the router has two handles you have to hold?

Great vid, i just got one of these for 50 aud in all working order but in need of a few things and cleanup. Wondering what did you use to clean the clear plastic guard? And any idea if you can get transfers or something for the protractor as mine has vanished

Excellent video Crooks! The attention to detail and great camera shots made it easy to follow along during your tear down and rebuild process. If I could pick your brain for just a moment, I just bought a Makita LS1013 today from a retired carpenter for $100 that came with a new blade on it. Runs perfectly, exact 90 degree cuts. It is in very nice shape for its age. Everything works with the exception of the inner side of the right side of the blade guard (plastic closest to the metal shroud as it is in the up position when looking from the top down) rubs a bit on the metal when moving the saw up and down. Do you know if this plastic guard is adjustable to the left/right? I haven't taken anything apart yet but was wondering if you encountered this on your saw and if so, if you might have a fix for this. Thank you much in advance.

Just picked up a 2007 L1214L for £300 in next to mint condition, love it. So quiet for the size and power.

Would an engine crane do the same sort of thing ??

looking for a small and cheap mitre saw for some wainscoting/panelling work. do you reckon this saw does the job well? I am also doing furniture carpentry work so should i go with a sliding mitre saw instead?

Is that a td5 sunroof?

Thanks a bunch. I’m trying to reacquaint my high school knowledge at 65, to woodworking 😮.

Thanks ! How did you clean the rusty rail guides?

Great work. I'm an amateur, so forgive the foolish question, are you using a router to cut out the window frames etc?

Still my fav saw made I've run miles and miles of base,case and crown with this saw and still kicking to this day 👍

Hello Crooks , im Ashish . I had a problem with this equipment recently ; a new Router bit ( with a12 mm dia shaft ) was installed thro the black check nut and its collet within. The machine vibrated and the router bit was thrown away not before damaging about 4 to 6 threads on the armature shaft . Had to replace the armature. My concern now is about the direction in which the tapered collet is to be installed ( the tapered length is unequal on borh the sides of the collet.

That’s massive wtf

Appreciate this, i've just bought a 2nd hand one for 150 quid, still in pretty good condition. Just 1 question, if I stop the motor, it will gradually slow down until it's spinning slower and then it seems it bites into a break and stops quicker (not instant but quicker). Is that as it should be or should it gradually slow down all the way until it stops?

@ezdubs_bot English to french

Great progress on the camper build, with the units in it really shows how far you have come with it looking forward to next part

Good job with the camper refit and video production. I also remember This Old House 😂

I am interested to know how you cleaned up the tubes so it glides nicely? I am using a LS1014 that needs some TLC, thanks

absolutely love the review, I just needed someone to say the straight up facts. Legend mate.

Thank you very much !

Excellent! Thank you!!!

Second that, a complete game changer. Simple solution vs the complex ‘sissor’/ply monstrosity I was planning! Thanks Matt

Hello How did you put that spring???? The most important and perhaps the most difficult part is that I am looking for the method of placing the spring. Thank you for your good and informative videos.

Inspirational! I bought my Makita LS0714 slider over a decade ago, and it's still in ok nick after over a decade of use. The only major problems are rust on the arms and the bevel mechanism which are starting to stick. Your brilliant tutorial has given me the confidence to give my Mak a much-needed overhaul. Thank you!

what saw is this one

Hi, have you ever had to calibrate the bevel adjustment on the back? Or more specifically the two hex socket grub screws which tune the spring/ball detent that makes it click at the zero position? Mine has a bit of wobble at the zero position before I tighten the handle on the back, so tends to cut on a bevel angle by a fraction of a degree. Any advice much appreciated.

Cheers for this video. You pushed me over the edge to buying one this week. I had a crappy Titan one (like a cheap copy of the Makita) which lasted 20 years. Although it was clunky and inaccurate it served most of my needs. Now i really appreciate all the extra facilities this has, plus a very well written manual. I'm v impressed at how easy the brush replacement appears. This tool will see me out!

Looking so much better already, looking forward to seeing more, hope you and your family have a great xmas, mike

Hi, what oil/varnish did you use on the wood please?

Genuine question: how sturdy is that in use? Does it walk at all when turning?

I think still made in Japan - which is way they are so good.

It is finally broken . I used this tool for 11 years . All this time I changed 4 carbon brushes sets and the rotor big bearing twice . Now the motor creates sparks and the break is not working. The motor creates continuous flames . I presume is the rotor so I ordered a new one .

Is there a way of this running on the Dewalt track rail?

Looking good mate

Coming along nicely😁

Great project. Nice one

I don't think I would wear gloves around machines with exposed moving parts. Why not use knobs rather than huts that require a wrench to tighten and loosen?

This is something i always wanted to do, will be interesting to follow along with this project

can this machine cut through steel??

Great job well done, i did think for a second the router had chewed into the wood when it jolted

Awesome job. What a great saw. I have a 12 inch 2x18v saw from makita that is having a few fence issues. I thought i'd just have a quick look at a video before adjusting to see what i'm looking at, and i'm glad i did. That digital angle gauge looks like the next tool i'm going to buy, what a mint thing. Awesome video, well made

I realize this is an old video but did you ever manage to sell these kits or at the least the plans? I need one for the same router, albeit a 2015 model. TY.

Hello friend. I changed the brush but i keep having the same problem. Any ideas ? Thanks for the video

Hi mate are you uk based? I have a mitre saw and the bevel lock isn't working, was hoping for you to have a look at it.

How do i get the side where the power goes in back on one of these. You need to be an octopus to line the rollers and blade up lol

Could you please supply plans

Made in Germany or China? The latter surely?