I didn't. I think 19mph is stock speed.

Thanks for posting. I picked up a Briggs 5hp (70's era) for it, which I think I was told they used, or did they use Tecumseh for the 700? I'd still like to get a nice original pill seat for it.

@@woodysgarage469 Earlier dog eared engine plates were for a 5 HP Briggs.They use a model 130212 or 130232 .The later Model 700 bikes after early 1969 used Tecumseh 5 hp engines The engine plates were no longer Dog eared.They were only dog eared for the Briggs 5 HP to allow the engine plate to be more forward.Also the reason for the offset foot rest as the Briggs 5 HP stuck out of the frame more . 5 HP Tecumseh motors were the same size as a 3 HP Tecumseh block.Briggs 5 hp were much larger then a 2 or 3 HP Briggs. I know all the minor details on these bikes...so ask away any other Questions.. 🙂thanks,Steve.

@@stevengeier7566 I just checked and this Briggs is a 130232. So is that right? I also cut a foot brake assembly off this frame that everyone on "OldMiniBike" forum says was not original, it was a little awkward looking. The disc brakes are too much $, was hoping someone would come up with an alternative that didn't require frame butchery.

Yes, run it with the filter it will richen the fuel mixture up a bit and then try the jet adjustment.

@@woodysgarage469 I tried but it just keeps acting like its running out of fuel

@@elijahnorris6760 Did you clean the carb? Getting a good flow of gas from the tank?

@@woodysgarage469 yes sir I did

@@elijahnorris6760 Not sure what to suggest. Old gas in it?

Thanks Wolf

Thanks

Short Shaft

Don't watch it then, Champ.

Might be as simple as a broken throttle like this one. I usually charge this outside.

Thanks Steve

Thanks reggie, good luck.

I sold it, loved them since they came out.

Thanks straightpipe.

I wasn't riding my 550 much so I sold it. This one is a blast on the road, good for riding along the coast, down to the beach, back roads.

It's how I like them.

Time will tell. I've heard of antifreeze being used to make wood swell, like to fix a loose hammer head.

We'll see how it goes. I may end up doing tubes.

How's the compression? Plugs good?

@@woodysgarage469 checked the compression, I had about 30. I took off the head and whaddya know I had a breach that looked pretty much identical to the one that you had. Gonna pick me up a new gasket, what's the one that you got?

@@tmapaman7080 I'd look for an OEM Gasket, or Sierra brand. Should be good.

@@tmapaman7080 One other thing. Maybe get a new impeller kit, head gaskets sometimes go when over heated.

@@woodysgarage469 I know what happened when it went out, which makes sense. I ran over a plastic shopping bag at full speed so the prop cavitated and revved way higher than it should've. I guess it won't hurt to check. The gasket comes in monday

I'd say new points/condensers. The points get old and get worn past adjustment.

That would make sense, but didn’t you adjust the points before taking it out the first time?

@@blueback21 Yes, but it can effect the timing if there is not enough contact there. The Gap will be correct, but the timing not.

@@woodysgarage469 looks like you did something to the carb the second time around. I hear ya I put new points and condensers in before I took it out last summer, but it was doing exactly what yours was doing.

@@blueback21 I think it was basically cleaning it (I had to watch the video as this was 2 years ago) I would recommend a rebuild kit and to clean under the welch plugs (which I did not, but should have). I also had the the lo/hi speed adjustment only out a half, when it is supposed to be 1 1/2.

No, but there are plenty on ebay, just buy from someone with good feedback on the carb you are buying.

Tim, I just started mine up yesterday too. First pull. It is purring without doing anything to it at all. I guess those shift levers are notorious for breaking.

@@woodysgarage469YesSir. Apparently they are a well known and documented weak spot. Pot metal bubble ridden little wanna be levers that break if you look at them cross eyed. Used handles are $100 plus. Plus the aggravation of disassembly. Well it was my fault it broke. I put it on side in back of pick up and it rolled over about 10 years ago. I finally built a nice temporary fix and now it rides shotgun in front seat with me. Hahahaha. No more pickup bed for this motor. I’ve enjoyed Evinrudes and Johnson’s since I was a kid. Grew up with them and still have a few to tinker with and use. The quality is unmatched and the simplicity makes them easier to keep around and work on. Like I said, enjoyed your video and will look for more. The best to you.

Yes, it's too bad. Cheap old VW's are impossible to find here in Rusty MA on a budget.

Thanks Johnny

Thanks

Thanks

Awesome, Thanks

Try grabbing hold of the pulley and see if there is excessive movement (worn bushing/bearing) there that make make it hard to shift when running. I've been told the correct belt can make a big difference as well. Good Luck, let us know if you solved the problem.

​@@woodysgarage469Thank you. Will try. 😮

Good to know.

if it was a merc he would still be chasing bacon wire

Thanks!

​@woodysgarage469 No problem. I love in depth restoration series. It takes a lot of the guess work out of the bike and makes it less daunting.

I reviewed my disassembly videos and I think I have everything straight now. It is odd that CT70 engines don't seem to use valve seals like XL70.

They don't have many, only go back to 75 and only list a QA50. I find www.cmsnl.com to be best, but still I didn't find a good enough view.

@@woodysgarage469 Go to "models with no year". You'll find XL70.

I'll remember to make sure the cam sprocket is tight now. Thanks

Yep, the adjuster became loose when I was riding.

You may be right, stay tuned.

Hey RK!, yes that was my after thought....lol, perhaps I'll do that.

Don't the Scrambler and Enduro use the same frame?

Yeah the only difference was the motor and brakes, I'm building a scrambler now and that's the identical to my frame