As a rule, flower buds are rounder. Wood buds are pointier.

I'm glad you appreciate my videos! Thanks for the nice comment.

Thank you! Cheers!

Probably not so much. Even if the chosen rootstock had a good compatibility with the chosen varieties of the different fruit types, some would (inevitably) grow better than others. Controlling the different vigor and growth rate of each graft would be quite a tasking job and even if they all were kept with (roughly) the same development, some fruit types would produce much better than others. And the tree would look quite awkward in some periods (some branches with leaves or flowers, while others may still be dormant, for instance). I have a pear tree grafted with 6 pear varieties and 1 nashi pear and I have to fight all those problems - check this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZqwqWiFqd2WjJI - at min 6.22 to see what I mean. Nevertheless, its quite an interesting experience to make.

The Chip Bud grafting technique provides a good cambium contact and a strong union - check this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqHCdX6sbtGAaKM - for some examples (the technique is covered from minute 9:52 and examples of grafts with 2 and 4 years old are provided at around minute 12). If you let the graft grow vigorously in the first year you will have to provide some kind of support, otherwise strong winds or fruit weight will break it (but that is valid for any graft). If your chips are not connected at the top, try to make a better cut on the rootstock (wider or narrower) so the chip adjust well. The goal is providing rootstock cambium tissue near the chip and contact is made not only at the bottom (the flap at the bottom provides an extra contact point , so it's easy). Cambium layers don't have to adjust perfectly. They just have to cross each other in some points. Beware of making the rootstock cut shorter than the chip or the top part will never join. Check my best video on chip budding technique, with lots of close up footage - kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGSQZaaeis94rpI

Thank you very much for your detailed answer!!❤

Não, lamento mas não comercializo estacas ou plantas.

Great! I'm glad my videos where helpful.

Yes, I do. Rarely on fig trees (in most cases, the flow of sap is so intense, that the tree covers the wound on its own). Regarding pruning paste, here's what I reply on the same question: I'm using a store bought one (brand Arbokol - a synthetic resin). I don't know if its available outside my area, but most commercial pruning pastes are fine. Just avoid the tar based ones. If you want to make your own, you can do it easily. Just mix oil (like, olive oil) with grated bees wax (for instance, from a candle made of beewax). Melt the wax inside the oil using vapor (use a double boiler). Add a few drops of an essential oil (like, tea tree oil) to act as an antiseptic. The paste will be solid at room temperature, like a shoe polish. For a softer paste, use more oil (1 part wax to 2 parts oil will be softer). The web is filled with different recipes using different oil, wax mixtures (canola oil, linseed oil, paraffin wax, etc.). I promised to do a video about it a couple of years ago, but I got side stepped and never got to do it.

@@JSacadura thank you, yes I would love to make the bio degradable pruning paste, as well I would like to see your video on it some day. All best from Slovenia!

O KZbin disponibilizou a dobragem automática em várias línguas, incluindo o Português (do Brasil) - para ouvir o audio dobrado nessa língua, basta seleccionar esse idioma no ícone das configurações do vídeo (o que parece uma roda dentada) e escolher o Português. Não tenho qualquer controlo sobre isso, já que não permitem que se adicione as nossas próprias pistas de audio ao vídeo. Se o fizessem, claro que seria muito simples adicionar uma pista de audio em Português (de Portugal) com a minha própria voz.

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Glad to hear that! Thanks for the nice comment.

M106, M7 and M26. El M106 lo utilizo en suelos arcillosos que tienden a frenar el crecimiento del árbol, que permanece pequeño en esas condiciones. El M7 y el M26 los utilizo en suelos de mejor calidad, pero necesitan soporte.

That seems like a good plan and if your trees react like mine do (I'm in zone 9a) it might help producing the tree structure a bit earlier (but remember that patience is a virtue when we talk about growing trees😊) . Beware that when you pinch, the tree tends to concentrate on developing fruits first and branches later. You might have to remove all fruits while they start to develop, to be able to see a quicker reaction, regarding new wood growth. Good luck with your trees.

@@JSacadura Very helpful. Thank you sir.

I'm using a store bought one (brand Arbokol - a synthetic resin). I don't know if its available outside my area, but most commercial pruning pastes are fine. Just avoid the tar based ones. If you want to make your own, you can do it easily. Just mix oil (like, olive oil) with grated bees wax (for instance, from a candle made of beewax). Melt the wax inside the oil using vapor (use a double boiler). Add a few drops of an essential oil (like, tea tree oil) to act as an antiseptic. The paste will be solid at room temperature, like a shoe polish. For a softer paste, use more oil (1 part wax to 2 parts oil will be softer). The web is filled with different recipes using different oil, wax mixtures (canola oil, linseed oil, paraffin wax, etc.). I promised to do a video about it a couple of years ago, but I got side stepped and never got to do it.