ASMR Replacing your FEP with nFEP

#3dprinting #tricks
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[@Foxenkraft]

when i see the vat of the m3p i feel love and i feel proud of her.

[@lightningrocketcreates]

That was the first time replacing the FEP was ASMR with no problems. That was magical.

[@kunalkapoor3883]

soothing sounds

[@damiencross7334]

So i have a m5s pro and i switched from acf to nfep. For longer lasting film life. I was running through acf so fast. Plus i have heard about nfep being better for quality. Not that the acf was bad in that department. Since the printer is set up for acf. Im having trouble getting the settings dialed in. Most prints are stuck to the bottom of the vat or nothing happens at all. Was wondering if you could share your nfep settings or any tips on how to get this printer running with nfep film. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@J3DTech]

When using NFEP, you're not going to want to lift as fast as ACF. All of their settings could be the same as ACF only helps with the first stage of TSMC, meaning the very first lift speed. I genuinely run 45 mm a minute for the first 3 mm. After that you can go as fast as you want. That was slow down your print a little bit but should help out quite a bit. You want to do this for the first layers and the normal layers? Same speed but on the first layers instead of doing 3 mm you want to do four. Print sticking on the build plate is a combination of a few things. Temperature is one. Make sure you're above 20° C being level is another. These M5 series printers are not the best at that with the auto leveling bit doesn't often work. I recommendation would be to disable it and manually level. There should be documents on how to do that. Finally the exposure time. The trick on this one is really not a trick at all. Just keep going up by 4 seconds until the print holds firm, but you can still remove it from the build plate and remove it means once you get the spatial underneath it kind of pops off. You shouldn't have to chisel it. The heavier the print the more burning time you'll need. So let's say I'm trying to discover a good burning exposure using my build plate calibration parts. They're very small and generally can run at about 20 seconds. But if I'm printing a big piece of train that has a lot of weight to it, I'm going to want to add between 4 and 8 seconds. For something in between like a miniature or part of a multi-piece statue, I may only add 4 seconds from my small calibration. Following this, you should find a good combination with your resin and printer. After quite a few prints, you really understand how your resin works and you won't ever have to really second guess yourself. Finally, normal layer exposure can change the burning layer exposure. This is because we're only running a few burning layers. I only run four burning layers and three transition. The normal layers will still reach down to the build plate at harden the resin next to it. So if you dramatically reduce or increase, that exposure might throw off your burning layers. This is why in my guide I give a baseline of settings and then the build plate calibrations which are very small and then boxes of calibration. These work together to get you the best calibration you can ever get so that you never have to second guess your settings ever again. If you could get failures, you can look at the bottom of the guide and see why you might have gone such a particular failure and move on. You don't have to keep playing with settings. Never really getting anywhere.

[@damiencross7334]

@J3DTech thanks for all that help. I been running on circles. When i first got it. The defult settings were great but when i changed to nfep. It started to be a headache. The m5s pro only has a profile on photon but i been preping in lychee and slicing im photon. I prefer lychee but it yet doesn't have a profile for the m5s pro. So files i slice on it. Don't even show up on the printer select screen. Where can i get your full guide and calibration test prints? I appreciate you taking the time to write all that out and responding quick. Everyone keeps saying you are a life saver when it comes to resin printing. I see why.

[@arjenheyman]

Haha nice Derek 👍 What are the wires connected to the VAT, for heating?

[@J3DTech]

Yep, this was for the installed VAT heater.

[@davidc3150]

Hey there. Merry late Christmas and upfront happy new year. Your channel has always provided great insight. So thanks a lot for that. If possible could you please talk about the software called UV tools? I just recently read about it and it seems wonderful. However not so sure how safe is it to download or if there already exist a better substitute for its features. I think among other things it detects islands from a sliced file. Thanks a lot for your time and I hope you get to read this rather sooner than later

[@J3DTech]

Thank you and you as well to you and yours. I'm not a huge user of UV tools but not a bad idea thanks for the suggestion.

[@davidc3150]

Happy new year. Most likely I'm asking a dumb question. But what's your recommendation on the build plate usage when printing. I mean how full should it be? Is there a percentage on your experience? Perhaps being full causes more suction/vacuum effects? Can it be mitigated? Should lift speed be increased or decreased? Or as long as the bottom exp is good just increase lift height? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again

[@J3DTech]

Happy new year to you as well. I run the same speeds and normal exposure for everything. However larger prints do require more burn in exposure time.

[@calif94577]

I don’t know squat about this as I just got my resin printer a week ago but isn’t that super loose? Don’t you want it tight across? If not how tight/loose do you want it?

[@J3DTech]

It's very tight, but if it's too tight it won't stretch and flex. It's important that it does this to help it release. This is why it's not glass. Make sure to find the link to my guide for everything you need to know, found in the videos description.

[@scottpovlot7376]

I noticed you used a small block under the film tightening it. Is that a specific size? Do you anything else special to set the tension?

[@J3DTech]

It's foam and you can see the size in the video as it's on a measuring pad. For thickness it's about 13mm thick but anything from 8mm - 15mm is fine

[@TheMoondougie]

@@J3DTechhow much taller should it be than the FEP frame? How much give are we wanting to build into the FEP by using one of these?

[@J3DTech]

@@TheMoondougie The foam block Im using is 8mm tall

[@TheMoondougie]

@@J3DTech thanks, kind sir!

[@ItsBrody]

Wonderful. How tall was the foam?

[@J3DTech]

13mm, but anything from 8mm - 15mm is fine.

[@SolarVR4]

What is a nfep?

[@J3DTech]

It's the more common type of Film used for 3D printing. It's also known as PFA. There are three major types FEP (crap don't use) NFEP (the best for detail) ACF (Better for speed but damaged details)