I just installed an Aluminum radiator that was perfect the fans in the kit was to thick had to move radiator toward passenger side to get to work

The one I bought is at this link. www.amazon.ca/Aluminum-Radiator-Austin-Healey-Frogeye/dp/B09NPTWK64/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=204T4VAJ7SG9J&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qvXWroxzMJTmWNuHhjcKbmqMSdvBj66WIYIGBGdYXguuo4t_hZH6iGP6vpb0tkO5J3GVltqi1aSmocL1pj19lSiKVqOgjpviRzYKSHtfJPVY62zHuKVu1nMmd627Sly8xRuotIzmEBK0UYzkS4m2cMPIyabjgk6fezUVLXjIvzqxUXmtqF6Rfhbk1U8GFHPAFzx0Arv1TpmY-Ezw5MnjUQ.uh9t8jOPVX6ipYGh2FdK86h2_9VBuzvJckQwGUfvpBU&dib_tag=se&keywords=mg+midget+radiator&qid=1717720013&sprefix=mg+midget+radiator%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-2

Do you have a link for the one you bought? I do see a number of them on Amazon, but a lot of '74 and beyond ones. That and older ones.

Thanks for posting the video, thinking of doing this on mine, whats your opinion now after using it for a few months?

Is that the stock carpet or aftermarket? Debating an eBay kit or the moss kit

Thanks for your comment. I know lots of people have successfully used the push through mount things but I would never recommend it with an old Midget radiator after this mess. I forgot to mention in the video that the fan housing doesn’t even fit in the front without some trimming. The Moss fan kit relay was also lower quality than the cheap Amazon ones I bought for the lights. They need to do better. I was lucky to have a spare (if ugly) rad to use temporarily. Still added hours of work and will add hundreds of dollars to correct.

Thanks for posting up a warts and all video 👍 that fan conversion looks an awkward job and the kit from moss has room for development by them 😊 those push through cable ties gave me the colly-wobbles, radiator cores can be delicate… Enjoying your videos, keep them coming 🙏

Great work around and probably saved you at least three hundred Biden Bucks in this economy.

Did you ever solve this? My 73 midget runs at 70psi hot, 50psi at idle hot

I bought my 71 the same color after it sat in the garage for 43 years. The owner felt he was too old to work on it so he sold it to me for nearly nothing I dove into it very quickly. The car had no rust but needed Brake hoses and a clutch slave cylinder the previous owner had done everything else including a new tank. I had it up and running with a new head gasket and exhaust valves after five days. Since then, I have re-sprayed it and converted it to original spoke knock off wheels. New top I drive it every day I have put 5000 miles on it since October 23.

Were you able to get to the starter from the top? I'm having a hard time reaching the bottom bolt.

This video just came across my feed. Really spent alota time on it! The Midget looks great, probably wish you would have finished it long ago, so you could enjoy the ride, BUT, looks like you enjoyed the rebuild as well! Good stuff!

I had gross jets in mine that caused the same issue. Got the right parts from Joe Curto . If there’s no vacuum leaks definitely fuel starvation. Try increasing the spark plug gap from 25 to 35 that helps also. Beautiful MG love your work!

I like to take my K car convert. to local car shows. I don't stop, I just drive through so they can gawk in envy.

Interesting and informative video 👍

😂 just caught up with this video after writing a war & peace length comment on the condenser video 😂 very useful video, subscribing 👍

Great tip regarding testing the condenser… You mentioned buying a spare to keep with the car… I’d like to recommend the dizzy doctor (uk) for quality components. I replaced the condenser in my moggy two years/3K miles ago and it’s still going strong. ESM Morris Minors also stock dizzy doctor condensers… Expensive (10$) but quality… ESM provide a top service…

Great job.. Thanks.

that half shaft looks remarkedly dry...

Great video thank you!

Happy new year. Help if possible, my door mirror eont dtay in place, has no tension,the mirror just flops on the actual door stem. Any clues how to tighten it, not the mirror glass the ehole mirror housing. Many thanks

Absolutely fabby information.

How do you remove the door card please.

I’m also in the process of taking apart the rear hubs for the brake adjusters. When taking the backing plate off of the axel. What side is the bolt holding the backing plate on? And what size is the socket please? Did you film this bit? Thanks !

that's how they are built...you know why they don't make computers in the uk...they haven't figured how to make them leak oil

Where did you get those plug wires and what kind are they

Not sure if you got this sorted. 80psi on a cold engine with choke is not unusual for these engines. High oil pressure will not make it blow smoke. The oil pressure is measured with a hot engine. Many of us run 15w40 or 10w40 as the 20w50 is like honey when it is cold; this means high oil pressure and low flow.

Looks good to me and just needs running in. On these A series engines they should have small O rings on the valves to reduce oil passing down the valve stems. I would be interested to see after running in what the smoking was like when the rings have bedded fully with the bores.

How do you remove the old bearings, since they're pressed in? I'm at a loss as I want to repack them and replace the seal. Thanks

I literally just did this job on my Frogeye yesterday afternoon, along with fitting new drums and shoes. Job went smoothly, but I'm intrigued by the packing of the bearing with grease. Obviously, it's normal & essential practice with unsealed ball and roller race bearings, but in this case the unsealed bearing is exposed to the rear axle oil. When I stripped the bearings out all the grease had long since been flushed out by this oil, but the bearings were nevertheless still well coated in oil and in not bad condition. I have an original 1958 works manual for the car and it mentions that the axle oil can reach the bearing so I can only assume that this is a satisfactory long term lubricant for it. I did nevertheless pack the new bearing with grease in the conventional manner so that there would be lubricant there until the axle oil found its way along to the end of the axle casing. I fit the seal with a special rubber lubricant (not rubber grease) that makes it almost possible to push them in by hand. I then lay the old seal on top of it before tapping in with a large socket (it's just a little protection for the rubber from the steel socket).The lubricant is made for fitting suspension bushes and the like and it really excellent because it goes off in the absence of air meaning that the seal is firmly held once fitted. It used to be an embarrassing product to order because it was called "rubber lube" and you always got a lot of innuendo from the supplier when you said what you wanted. Fortunately, they changed the name; unfortunately they changed it to "bush lube". They couldn't have made things any worse if they'd tried! If "bush lube" means nothing stateside, look it up for the British meaning.

thanks. I can use the same process for my MGA.

Hi, How is the epoxy holding up? Just as good as having them stitched?

How did you delete the air pump? Looks great!

Very nice car. I have its twin down in Florida.

what on earth were you censoring ? lol

Smoking is from rings or coolant..head gasket

True Canadian, using hockey nets to support your wheels! Nice!

I have a 1970 mgb that is literally brand new showroom condition. Same yellow color too

Bad head gasket

Looking at the distributor, as I have had many BMC engines over the past 50 years, it looks like the ignition timing is way out from where it should be. I think I would reset the static timing then do an adjustment with the distributor loose and rotate the distributor with the engine running so that it at least runs smoothly. It looks like it is too far advanced from the position of the vacuum advance.

the spring is too strong

bit like blood pressure

Hi and thanks for your video. I restore my own Midget in France. How do you know the good position of your distributor? With the sound of the motor?

Hello, this means you have too much pressure in the crank case, check the charcoal canister to make sure it flows if not John Twist has a nice video on how to refresh it, or you have too much piston blow by, worn piston rings, you can check that with a leak down tester witch is quite inexpensive but you need a compressor. Very nice videos. Good luck

Is there an electronic ignition module to replace the points & condenser?

Hi, The catch can does seem to have helped. It continues to collect oil that would otherwise have entered the combustion chamber. It’s an easy thing to try at least. Good luck with your car.

Did this seem to help your problem? I have a 74 Midget that is having the same issues you described in your last video. Good video BTW!

British cars of this period had an issue with a change in the supplier for fuel tanks which resulted in paint from the inside of the tank blocking the fuel system as a result they had to fit an in-tank filter over the suction tube on the fuel tank level sensor

Great video and really helpful. I have a problem with my coil becoming hot 🥵 I heard you mention that the coil was warm. Have you any ideas why a coil may be running hot when it appears that the engine is running well? Tkanks👍🏼

Nice clean Midget! 1275? Good diags. I would have been chasing the carbs.