Importance this historical description Needs to be emphasized Kind of like magnetos and Babbits two generations before mine started turning screws in the 1970s

Do you know if that housing need to be removed in order to pull the crankshaft and cam shaft? Great video by the way!

I think the 235 parts engine is a 54. You show the casting date and the last character is a 4. It also has the 53 and later style head with 18 head bolts.

my right ear says this is a great video

This saved me alot thank you, I'm 18 and got a 76 chevy I don know what I'm doing but people like this Make my life a littermore esay

Only bla bla bla

Great info thanks

Clear as mud. Explaining positions of the components while flipping the cover around every five seconds and pulling the shafts out and apart before ever showing them in theirr neutral position. What was the bench test?

Really good boneyard to keep all these old cars. Many places just crush everything these days.

Audio too low

Why do people tell us things we don't give a shit about

Ahh perfect, thanks. Good video man

It appears the camshaft gear has already been changed to a metal one. The originals were fiber and usually have to be busted up during removal. No fun !

A bunch of talking and no action waste of time.

Im swapping cranks. How do I get the gear off the crankshaft and onto the "new" one?

Is it better to remove the entire housing and re-center it like you show, or just pop out the old seal, and replace by leaving the housing in the stock place? I’m at this crossroad right now…. Any advice would be very helpfull!!! Thanks!

Thanx for the info...I was trying to figure this one out, the exterior bolt heads on the outside were confusing me. Now I know, Thanx again!

I’m 17 taking apart my engine for the first time thank you!!

What is that block off plate with the oil line on the side of the 216 for?

All early 235 engines have the tall side cover also. Except for maybe a casting or serial number, an early 235 is indistinguishable externally from a 216. The 216 and early babbit rod 235s had 2 problems, neither had anything to do with the engine itself. Problem 1 was people running thick oil chasing oil pressure, which was never a good plan, as this engine depends on high oil flow to live, not high pressure. If you want a babbit rod 216 or 235 to live a long life, you run #10 oil in it, winter summer spring and fall. Period! Problem 2 was stupid people working on them who had no clue, and should have stuck to knitting or painting with watercolors or something. None of these engines, including the full pressure 235's and 261's are anything but a hand grenade waiting to go off above 3500 rpm.

Thank you for the info on the fuel pump. i just did 76 305 chevy Malibu classic and i was having problems putting the pump on.i didn't know about the hole on the front of the engine.i wish i did it would have save me some time. But what i did was put grease on the shaft and it held it in place. After i was done and try to start the car it didn't start. Is their air on my gas line ?

Cool! What did you mean by you switched the shafts to the other side ? Does the collet side need the ones with less wear?

Lost me 2 minutes in, no reason for back ground music to be playing at the same volume as the instructor.

great video! thank you.

no gasket?

WOW, YOU HAVE SOME NICE TOYS,

I’m running the SpeedMaster roller rockers on my 318. I had to clearance them to clear the spring retainers. I have revved it over 6500 rpm many times. I’ve got over 8000 miles on them and haven’t had any issues so far.

what that seal made of

WOW -someone that doesn`t want to keep everything secret,I have subscribed.

>> 235 Chevy online 6 << Does that mean you can start and program it over the internet?

Good morning to you this s morning. This is YourBoyEric from Southern Cali and I’ve been watching your videos for a long time and they have been very well informative. This is why I need your assistance for my project. I have a 78 Chevy Camaro Z28 I’m building fresh m scratch. I’ve purchased a universal wiring kit from Amazon which I’ve done 95% of the installing myself and it’s very easy to do. The problem that I’m having is the tail lights. On the new wiring harness there are two wires for the rear parking lights, one for left side and one for the right side (which I believe are for the rear marker lights). Also two other wires for the reverse lights (left and right as well). On the tail light harness there’s only one single wire for the parking lights and one for the reverse lights. Do I tie both left and right parking light wires together to that single wire as well as the reverse light wires as well? Thank you so much for your help. YourBoyEric from Southern Cali.

How many times have you smashed your toes in your shop there?

Gear driven camshaft and splash lubricated rod bearings. What were they thinking?

Didn't read all of the comments but your new motor is a service block. It has motor mount holes in the front and also on the sides. It may be '58 or newer.

Those were all terrain and get you were you need to go

261 canda chevy one of the bad boys

My 216 ran for 40 plus years if you wanna haul ass a stock drive train anit happing

Skip the weld. I JB welded mine in 10 years ago ! still there !!!

Good morning. I bought the same harness that you have purchased. Mine have a black wire that's unmarked. Would that wire be a ground to where I have to ground it or just ignore it all together. Thank you very much. YourBoyEric from Southern Cali.

Hi my name is mata where are located I’m in baltimore

I have these on my 1972 B300 van with the 360 (Holley 4160 carb and air gap 4bbl intake). 650 miles so far without trouble. They are definitely low quality. Probably not good for 6000rpm street racing, but they seem fine for normal driving. The main reason I bought these was because my exhaust valve seats had been machined at some point in the past that has resulted in them being recessed about 5-6mm. The stock rockers were not opening the valves far enough and they also couldn’t close all the way because the stems stuck up so high. I was able to adjust these within tolerance and my van went from 7-8mpg to 12.5mpg. Cheaper than buying new heads, which will eventually be my permanent fix.

Disagree with your opinion on the “babbett pounder” 216 engines. They were very tough and reliable engines. They did not like sustained high rpm’s but they could easily cruise at 65 MPH all day long. They also didn’t like being run low on oil. But “basically” they got the job done. Yes,the full pressure 235’s were better but the 216’s were far from being “bad”engines.

That sleeve is an alignment tool also, leave it installed while you torque the retainer down so it will be correctly centered

You didn’t actually finish the job and install the pump! Lol I didn’t come for the music I came to see how to install the fuel pump because I’m having trouble getting mine bolted on even using the bolt trick! Other than that the video was ok. I didn’t notice the country music until you pointed it out. I’m not a big fan of country music, but I do love small block chevy’s! 😊

I have auto dim on a 76 Lincoln.can’t buyem.thank u for video

how do you put it back on the right way? or do you just bolt her back on wham bam?

I wouldn't use Emery cloth, you don't want to scratch it you need to polish it with corcus cloth.

I'm a Chicano in So Cal and I listen to country when I'm wrenching in my garage

Got a 79 k10 that is same color. Has a 355. Though have a 454 in garage i want to swap in.

Are you talking..sounds like mumbling