Big differences between full pressure 235 Chevy online 6 and 216 babbit pounder slash oiler engines

[@louiscastaneda98]

Been driving a 216 babbit pounder going on 20 years now and have not blown an engine yet but did change out the 411's. Mine would scream at 40 mph big time! Do use non detergent oil and change out the oil every two months regardless and at one time it was my daily driver for several years and would change out the oil ever month, again regardless. If you keep everything lubed up pretty reliable engines.

[@jacquelinechellis4036]

GMC 270 oil pump will give a 235 55 lbs of oil pressure and better oil volume. Just have to build a pan. I took a 270 Jimmy pan and welded 235 ends on it and rails. Distributor gear and cam gear are same

[@poortouringhotwiregarage5617]

Sounds like a good idea as long as you're not running hydraulic lifters that might pump up and hang valves open

[@poortouringhotwiregarage5617]

Update: Had to use the 216 harmonic balancer on the 235 because the 235 balancer is WAY too big to run in the 40s cars because it hits the crossmember. FYI that's not an issue in the trucks because of the I-beam front axle

[@craigjorgensen4637]

Disagree with your opinion on the “babbett pounder” 216 engines. They were very tough and reliable engines. They did not like sustained high rpm’s but they could easily cruise at 65 MPH all day long. They also didn’t like being run low on oil. But “basically” they got the job done. Yes,the full pressure 235’s were better but the 216’s were far from being “bad”engines.

[@poortouringhotwiregarage5617]

Well, I'll send you all of the 216s I pull out of my projects then 😆

[@georgepavich8266]

I agree my 48 chevy has the og 216 which still runs

[@cisco831saladbowl9]

216 are the best mine still runs strong

[@poortouringhotwiregarage5617]

Forgot to mention there are 3 major versions of the 235. The 1st generation came out in 1951 and ended in '53 (manual transmission only) This is what is commonly referred to as the "babbitt pounder" and they're not worth rebuilding unless you're trying to do an original restoration. They are pretty much the same engine as a 216 and have the same oiling issues and poured babbit rod bearings. The 2nd generation 1953-1955 1st series was considered a "full pressure" but only came in the 1953 if it was a Powerglide automatic car or truck. All 1954 and up 235 & 261 engines are "full pressure oiling" and in later years (1960s) they had a "full flow" oil filter system. The 2nd generation engines are basically the same engine as the 3rd generation but they use a 216 style water pump mount. This makes for an easier conversion on a 1937-1953 car or truck because of the cooling fan location

[@davidward9487]

Your correct about the 53 power glide. They also upgraded to hydraulic lifters. I believe in 54 all engines in there passenger cars were "ful pressure Oilers " rule of thumb from the older guys were the valve covers 4 bolts full oiler 2 bolts babbit pounder except a 53 power glide. Im still learning about this engine but I find it so interesting.

[@michaelbenardo5695]

@@davidward9487 You are correct about the valve covers.

[@michaelbenardo5695]

The splasher engines are indeed worth rebuiding as long as you are keeping it stock, or close to it. As long as you don't routinely over-rev it, it is a very good engine.

[@franklinbrown8417]

235 engines started in 1941 in big trucks. They were basically the same as 216 except larger displacement. In 1950 the 235 was redesigned with a new head and a shorter side cover. The 50 Powerglide engine had hydraulic lifters. In 1953 the 235 was again redesigned with a new head in two versions: a babbitt rod style with the dippers, troughs and nozzles, and a full pressure to the rods engine used in Powerglide cars. Etc.

[@SecondShiftPleb]

The lack of casting marks or serial numbers might indicate that this is a post-1958 replacement engine. I think GM continued to make the 1958 version of this engine for about 5 years after they stopped putting them in the assembly line vehicles (i.e., as a crate engine). It was so superior to earlier 216/235 models, that they had a large customer base for swapping in the late models. The older engines were reliable engines, but most babbit-era engines are weak and kind of weird to work on. In general pre-mid-fifties engines were all gutless and had inadequate oil slinger systems.

[@_Slados]

Hey man, You have some good insight into these motors. It's very helpful iv just purchased a 51 deluxe it has a 235 on a 3spd have been having trouble trying find information on which 235 it is as the casting numbers are different here in Australia. Keep up the good work

[@flaviopaulopereira2731]

Gratidão.. é uma aula. Estou agora abrindo o Motor 216 da Chevy 3.600, espero conseguir reabilitá-lo. Falo aqui do Brasil. Um abraço

[@rickschmiderer1380]

Importance this historical description Needs to be emphasized Kind of like magnetos and Babbits two generations before mine started turning screws in the 1970s

[@bulmaropulido7724]

Great info thanks

[@licha5050]

grate info thanks man!

[@craigsnyder7747]

Didn't read all of the comments but your new motor is a service block. It has motor mount holes in the front and also on the sides. It may be '58 or newer.

[@im1sinfulman]

WOW, YOU HAVE SOME NICE TOYS,

[@pete1342]

All early 235 engines have the tall side cover also. Except for maybe a casting or serial number, an early 235 is indistinguishable externally from a 216. The 216 and early babbit rod 235s had 2 problems, neither had anything to do with the engine itself. Problem 1 was people running thick oil chasing oil pressure, which was never a good plan, as this engine depends on high oil flow to live, not high pressure. If you want a babbit rod 216 or 235 to live a long life, you run #10 oil in it, winter summer spring and fall. Period! Problem 2 was stupid people working on them who had no clue, and should have stuck to knitting or painting with watercolors or something. None of these engines, including the full pressure 235's and 261's are anything but a hand grenade waiting to go off above 3500 rpm.

[@genehart261]

Gear driven camshaft and splash lubricated rod bearings. What were they thinking?

[@franklinbrown8417]

I think the 235 parts engine is a 54. You show the casting date and the last character is a 4. It also has the 53 and later style head with 18 head bolts.

[@coilmotorworks]

The water drain you mention is the oil pressure gauge connection. The 235 was upgraded to full pressure in 53 for the automatic versions and all 54s with slush box got the full pressure crank. I have a 54 and it has the narrow tin on the lifter access. I have a 54 that has a full pressure 235 and the 3 on the tree from the factory. The water pump is a two hole. My question is does the 54 235 have the aluminum cam gear or the fiber version?

[@eddysandoval2068]

I have a big issue on a 1951 power glide Bel Air with a 235 engine and I can't get oil to the head at all it has a line that goes from block to head but on my engine it has it on the bottom of number 6 cylinder on passenger side and I changed oil pump all ready and put drill inside to see if it runs and nothing and help I would really appreciate or is it best to install an external line

[@frankschwartz7405]

>> 235 Chevy online 6

[@aftershock2222]

What is that block off plate with the oil line on the side of the 216 for?

[@user-sc1ck6ec8f]

Those were all terrain and get you were you need to go

[@76629online]

How many times have you smashed your toes in your shop there?

[@georgepavich8266]

My 216 ran for 40 plus years if you wanna haul ass a stock drive train anit happing

[@charlescox6608]

You would be better off to junk both of them and get another newer 230 or 250 6 !! 235 crack heads bad and 216 is actually a better motor than 235 !!!

[@michaelbenardo5695]

If you want the 3rd gen Stovebolt, the 250 would be a better bet than a 230. 230 doesn't have very much low end torque.

[@dennisyoung4631]

I had a 250 in my first car. Leaked oil, but was reliable.