Let me know if the cleaning worked. It may still need a special kind of lubrication.

Thank you! Seth Thomas also makes clocks where the hour hand is attached to a sleeve that can only be accessed once the mechanism is removed. Until you figure that out, one can go crazy trying to pry off the hour hand.

Thanks. Yes, I have. Here is the link to it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnW5hml7Z9yhgZo. Is this the same one you have? I was not able to get the chime working properly, but did get it to run.

@@mherzog7 My ST westminster chime is a "Tambour" style they called "Medbury" circa 1953. I just watched the other video, a very complex clock. I saw comments that told how to fix the chimeing, did you ever go back and try again on the chimes.

@@Capricorn1-14-44No, I did not

Thank you!

Remove the minute hand and the hour hand. Re-seat the minute hand and advance it till it chimes the hour. Remove minute hand and seat hour hand pointing to that hour. Reseat minute hand on the 12.

I was not clear in my explanation. I had adjusted the saddle a bit, which I did not mention. It improved the running but I had to let it go for close to an hour so the pendulum slows down to a steady back and forth period. That is when you can fully check for being in beat as well as if it is running slow or fast. Some clocks will settle down in 10 minutes, some take longer. I feel that you can be confident in a steady rhythm after an hour. If it stops, you have to adjust the saddle again. I posted another 400 day clock repair video that I think gives a more clear explanation on how to put it in beat. Here it is, start it at 38:00. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g529q5J3otWsrsk. I also realized that although I talk about adjusting the saddle, you can't see it in the video, but I found another video that clearly shows the saddle. Briefly, as the pendulum swings, you mark the spot where it clicks, first moving left, then right. The pendulum keeps turning after the click. You then mark the spot where it finally stops, both to the left and right. The distance between the two should be close to the same. This is the saddle video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpTXnnp_lMR5opY. Good luck, and thanks for watching!

@@mherzog7 Mark, I so appreciate the quick and detailed response. With your info, I was able to get a family heirloom clock running that hadn't for 25 years. I don't have a beat amplifier and couldn't hear the tic, so I used the method described at about 2:40 in the second, saddle video you pointed me to. I'm sure it is not as precise as the overswing method, but it at least could be used to get the beat in the zip code to run long enough for the overswing method. Likely obvious to some with experience, but I learned and then read elsewhere that I needed to use very small adjustments and leave the adjustment mechanism fairly tight between trials. Loosening and tightening the adjustment mechanism was enough to throw off the alignment. 1 degree of adjustment seemed to give 10-20 degrees of overswing change. This was the first time I've fixed a broken clock. Seeing it run makes me want to jump into and try another! But first I'm going to use some of your videos to adjust the speed and clean and lubricate. This particular clock had started out in very good condition. Even though it had been in storage for many years so it was much easier than the ones you have done.

@@garypeterson6114 I'm happy you got it working. Fixing them can become an addiction. You will find some really beat up ones at local thrift stores, and if you offer $10 to $20 they will likely take it. Each time you fix one, you get better and it gets easier. Good luck!

I just place a few drops of the synthetic oil, no need to fill it up. I would hesitate to use compressed air, I do not see how it will get the oil out, as you are blowing it into the same hole it has to come out of. I do not know where to get a replacement coil. If it seems the wires are close to coming apart, try securing it with either some epoxy glue, gorilla tape or glue from a hot glue gun. The only way I have been able to replace a coil is by finding another non-working similar clock and using that one. Good luck, and thanks for watching.

@@mherzog7 "I just place a few drops of the synthetic oil, no need to fill it up." Roughly how many drops would you recommend? Closer to 5 or 10, for instance? Out of curiosity, what would happen if one were to fill it up? Would that have any benefits at all, and would it cause something bad (like making the rotor leak or the clock to make sloshing noises while it was working)? Do you know how much oil the manufacturers used to put in when the clocks were first made?

@@hardwickebenthow 2 to 3 drops. Less if you are using a large diameter dispenser. When it comes to oiling these clocks, less is more. If you fill it up, it likely will not run. No idea how much oil was used initially.

@@mherzog7 Thank you.

I really can’t say. I would take it apart and check if there was a break in the wiring (you can check that with an ohm meter) or if something is stuck.

@@mherzog7 Will do. Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I know. I don’t have the tools for that. Thanks for watching!

What kind of rotor?

@@mherzog7 Same as in the Hammond Skyscraper. The flat pancake style that's held in with a brace, and drive gear only exposed. I have a large wall clock that needs one.

@@mantolaman Sorry, I do not have any of those at the moment. Your best bet would be to look for a similar clock on eBay, non working, and you should be able to repair the rotor, if frozen, the same way I did. It will cost far less than trying to buy just a rotor. One tip to see if you can get the one you have to work, heat it with a hot air gun. That will loosen the old oil and it may run, but eventually it will thicken and stop. But at least you will know that it is worth the effort to open and drain the old oil.

@@mherzog7 I've up and down that road. Had success with one, but the Skyscraper had a bad rotor. Got it torn completely apart. Took out the fiber gear and it's bad. Tried to repair it with epoxy with no success, yet. So I borrowed the rotor out of my wall clock and I'm short one. That's why I bought the Ravenswood. Betting on a good rotor, we'll see. Should get it today. But if it's bad then I'm short two rotors! Can't get ahead repairing Hammond clocks!

Just got the clock. The rotor is locked up solid. Got on the stove warming up to see if it will free up. If it does, I'll take out the solder plug, flush it out and see how it runs.

I have not been able to find the exact mechanism.

@@mherzog7 true but wouldn't any mechanism do as long as the hands fit

@@SuperNathan90 No, because the movement snaps into place on the front plate and you need to match the size or it will not fit, plus the back cover will not fit over any different shaped mechanism. Different quartz clock manufactures have different sized hands, it is almost impossible to mix and match.

Thank you. Yes, was unfortunate.

Thank you very much!

Thank you. The problem is these motors are soldered together, so it is next to impossible to open them up to attempt any repairs.

These clocks are very cool. If you need more help in getting it to work check out 'Bugsy's dad enterprises' on KZbin, he specializes in Jefferson clocks. Or just look for 'Jefferson mystery clock repair", his videos will pop up. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for the info. Is that the same thing I am seeing called Rodico watch cleaning putty?

I recently found that if I cannot repair a rotor my usual way, heating it to further drain old oil and than re-oiling it brings it back to life.

@@mherzog7 thank you very much

I had a clock with the same problem, and if the tab that holds the spring in the barrel is worn, unfortunately you need a new mainspring.

I think you might have given up too soon! Following the steps outlined in how to take them apart, what order, what to do, etc., I have been able to repair a lot of different makes of clocks. Including Telechron, Seth Thomas, Sangamo, Ingraham, New Haven, and many others. Although all are different, all of them work basically the same way.

Thank you very much! Best of luck to you.

Thank you. Some of these clocks seem so interesting that even if it turns out that I can’t fix it. I think it’s still worth seeing.

Thank you very much.

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure where I would place the clamps or zip-ties. Thanks for watching!

@@mherzog7 @dperry428 has a video which shows him letting down and capturing (clamping) the mainsprings: "Repairing T's Gilbert Mantel Clock Movement" starting about 8:07 in that video.

Thanks, I’ll check it out.

Thank you. I think the loops at the ends were placed by someone, and not original. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the info, I’ve been told that the only supplier of motors is Timesavers

Are you referring to the plug that goes into the back of the clock or into the wall outlet?

@@mherzog7 yes

@@pamelasheridan9717 Yes, the plug that goes into the clock or yes, the plug that goes into the wall?

@@mherzog7 I guess I should have said power cord. The cord that goes from the clock to the wall. It's very old and needs to be replaced.

@@pamelasheridan9717 Here is a link to a video I made showing how to replace a power cord. Good luck! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJ-4i5predJ2n5Y

An amazing coincidence, yes. Good luck with your repair.

Thank you very much!

Yes, I noted that the clock is covered with a thin layer of 24 karat gold, only use warm water with a soft cloth, some Dawn for stuck on dirt. The glass should not be able to rotate but yes, the retaining ring needs to be placed a little off-center, and then rotated until it locks into the notch, and then you have to gently pry it into position. Thanks for watching!

If not special tools, I’m sure they got quite proficient at puttting them together.

Yes, very.

Fortunately I have been careful enough to not have that happen. Thanks for watching!

My SA5 does not have that adjustment rod. I have seen it on other clocks, where it is used to disable the alarm. It moves a lever that prevents the hammer from contacting the bell. I do not know why yours is running slow, these clocks usually keep perfect time. It is likely an issue with the motor. If you can completely disassemble it, clean and lubricate, it may work properly.

@@mherzog7 "I have seen it on other clocks, where it is used to disable the alarm. It moves a lever that prevents the hammer from contacting the bell." Ah, I see. "If you can completely disassemble it, clean and lubricate, it may work properly." What is the best lubricant, and what's the best cleaning substance? Also, what are the best things to use to clean the wood and the brass trim? And does Restor-A-Finish fix milky-looking patches caused by rubbing alcohol? I used alcohol to clean the glass on the front of the clock and accidentally got some on the wood. It causes milky discoloration on the varnish.

@@hardwickebenthow I use synthetic clock oil, there are several brands, I use Horace Whitlock, but I am sure they are all the same. If you have an ultrasonic use hot water with Dawn detergent to clean the brass parts, otherwise use a toothbrush with Dawn. I clean out the pivot holes with a toothpick soaked in alcohol. I use Bruce's wood cleaner for wood cases, and follow with Restor-a-finish. You can try it on the white patches, it may help and won't make it worse. I use Brasso to polish the brass.

@@mherzog7 "otherwise use a toothbrush with Dawn." Would the correct procedure be to put Dawn on the toothbrush, lightly scrub the parts with it, then rinse the Dawn off of them under running water? Also, does this only apply to the interior parts made of brass or also the iron/steel ones?

@@hardwickebenthow rinse parts in hot water, dip toothbrush into some dawn. Parts should be taken apart. Do it to both brass and steel parts, but make sure you dry the steel ones as they can rust.

Sorry, I cannot.

Sorry, I do not.

Thank you!

Yes, considerably so.

@@mherzog7 Thank you.

Did you let down the spring and then just wind it 3 or 4 turns?

@@mherzog7 No, I will need to give that a try. It is fully wound up right now. What is the name of the tool that you used to wind down the spring. Not sure if using the key is a smart idea.

@@briantreiber Do not use the key. You need a let down key. Here is a link on how to make one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2fcnqakhs2Sj80. He makes it more difficult than it is. Here are a couple of links to videos I made showing how to use it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kH2wZpSGjLGheck, go to 9:30; and kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2S5o2Vuf99gh8U, go to 4:40. Just keep your fingers away from the key so they don't get whacked when it spins down.

@@mherzog7 A let down key is the only safe way to remove the power from the gear train. A butterfly key will spin out of your fingers and hurt you and the clock. You must do this before separating the plates or removing the anchor. Some anchors can be removed without separating the plates, but you must let down the power even so. After I clean and lubricate a clock movement, I assemble it without the anchor so I can see the running of the train with a couple of clocks of the mainspring. When I'm satisfied I put the anchor in and check the action. Finally, I add the suspension unit and pendulum and observe the action of the escapement. I only give the pendulum 180 degrees of rotation from rest to initiate the motion. This is more than enough and any more is unnecessary. Mark's description of setting the clock in beat matches what I do.

93 mm

Thanks for the info! I have seen that in other clocks, but I have also had clocks that do not start even with the second hand turning. It is usually due to either sluggish gears from a build up of dirt and oil or a frozen rotor. Thanks for watching!