I was using the MeasureQuick app. It’s had a good layout. A few little things I don’t like, but overall the layout is great. Love being able to swipe and see all the readings I need.

Good to know it’s not just mine. I’ve found the same thing, close the app and restart fixes it most times. I haven’t used the Fieldpiece probes but I should test out the BT range on my meter. Thanks mate.

It’s impressive! I don’t know how long this condenser was down for so that probably helps 😂

Thanks mate.

Thanks mate.

I haven’t used them. The set up looks great though. I use the Appion vacuum rated hoses with their Schrader core removal tools.

😂 I Want To Believe

City Multi don’t have a recovery/evacuation mode on their HR units. Because their HR units are two pipes you’re able to pull from both sides. The PUHY does have function 988 Recovery/Evacuation mode.

Thought so, looks like they didn’t

They do. I’m fairly confident they did turn off, but I’d need to go back and watch the video. This was filmed over 4 months ago so can’t remember.

That would’ve been a pain on the arse. I’ve had a few issues with their new units.

Thanks mate. I swap it at the isolator or power terminal block. That way everything is receiving the same phase rotation.

It was pretty quiet overall. I look forward to spending more time on them going forward. I get it 😂 my preference is Mitsubishi Electric.

I dont know what's happened to Daikin because 20 years ago when I started out they were elite, ow having nothing but issues with their inverter boards failing, I know they had a bad batch of capacitors on their smalling splits but lately I've diagnosed 10 inverter boards on vrv 4 loops that are less than 3 years old

Feels like they spent all their budget on designing the app than making the equipment better

The unit had its own dedicated power supply. It’s a legal requirement here. If they’re all seperate units you will probably need dedicates supply’s to each. If it’s a multi head unit everything will be run off one supply. Probably best to check your local codes to see what is required for your area.

Thanks mate. I took a stab and thought 960g wouldn’t make much difference so I didn’t do another test mode. If I go back once the additional 3 head have been added I’ll put the system through another test mode then.

Such a bad idea 😂

the bottel is up side down so it still charge liquid

@@dongkaizhou9524 👍

Stub on vapour port is at the top of the bottle amd on liquid goes down to the bottom, hence turning upside on vapour will be liquid

@@daniellonergan5669 thanks, what about charging liquid into the suction line? Does that harm the compressor

I was charging slowly. There is a suction accumulator between the port and the compressor. I was also charging through a Schrader core. The chances any liquid makes it back are next to 0%.

This is the second one I’ve ever seen like this. Great of if I ever need to work on it.

BS Boxes should be treated as an indoor unit and should never be outside unless it's in a enclosed accessible space. I'm from Canada as well

You Canadians have to endure way colder winters where everything wants to freeze over which we just don't quite get in most of Australia, so that could be a significant reason why. Total exposure to the elements probably isn't ideal for the branch box though no matter where it is.

I flagged it with the office and a warranty call has been lodged with Daikin. I meant more what I could do about it in the mean time. It’s an odd decision by Daikin that’s for sure.

😂

Not with City Multi. They don’t even provide you with an option to do it via their Functions list. All their systems are two pipe, including their Heat Recovery, so you’re always pulling from both sides of the system. All other manufactures VRV/F I’ve worked on yes, you do need to put in into a recovery/evacuation mode.

I really appreciate your help mate. I am changing a compressor next week on one and it’s the first time I do Mitsubishi I am usually working on Toshiba and mostly Daikin. Cheers 👋

Easy mate, happy to help. Mitsubishi use dip switches on the control PCB for functions. You set the SW4 bank of dip switches with SW6-10 set to on.

I’m currently using the Fieldpiece SC680 which has that function. It’s a solid meter.

100% 😂

I’ve noticed a few of my videos have been stuff we’ve done recently 😂 I’m going to a Daikin VRV commissioning of ours tomorrow so fingers crossed.

@@hvacraustralia oh yess!! I can't wait

You’re kidding mate w

I don’t mind them overall but they do seem to have some issues. I work on the tri-capacity series the most. Everyone Actron I’ve worked on seems to have a difference board setup too with different ways of changing parameters. It’s small but still annoying.

Temperzone tech support just having a laugh 😂 I think I do this all the time. I’ve had to correct myself a few times.

I did email them about a month ago about this issue and they said they would sort it out on the next update. That was two updates ago 😂 hopefully they sort it.

@@hvacraustralia it was worth a try! 😂

I don’t believe so in this instance. Every time I’ve had a faulty RV I’ve seen some sort of pressure and temperature difference somewhere in the system. On these I had no movement anywhere.

I contacted Statewide Appliances directly to get it. I tried going through LG direct but it was a massive hassle and eventually gave up with them.

Absolutely.

Handy tool if you’re seeing them all the time. Considering it’s a 1/6th of the price of the Daikin one it’s brilliant! Overall the Daikin BTSC has a nicer layout though.

That will do it 😂 I could see signs of rats inside the unit so surprising it wasn’t that. Seen it plenty of times over the years for sure.

It’s is on a bit of an angle. When I eventually replace the unit I’ll sort out a better base.

Looks like the refrigerant evaporating out of the oil. Can kinda see it bubbling

Refrigerant flashing out of the oil

Refrigerant boiling out of the oil in the sight glass. It was tight access, probably should have zoomed in.

The 12VDC power for the wall controller is supplied from the indoor PCB. Check the TB15 terminal at the indoor PCB for the 12VDC supply. Check the wiring between the PCB and controller for continuity. Also, if the PCB has recently been replaced confirm it has been addressed using the rotary dials located on the board. The pcb won’t send power to the wall controller if it hasn’t been addressed. Check what the LED’s on the PCB are doing also. They can tell you a lot. Hope this helps 🤙

@hvacraustralia i have checked everything the power is OK and the outdoor signal is 29 DC but the leds all off (PEFY-P20~140 VMA(L)-E this is the type of the device

I really should get one of those. Very handy.

@@hvacraustralia get a couple.

Thanks mate. JNG based in Dandenong have parts for these units.

Thanks mate.

Thanks mate.