I would have used the magic x , on the final quad

bomber video

Nice video. Consise and clear. Lots to take away from it. I have just been revisiting the paper that comes with my gear and note that certain knots in Dynema slings reduce the strength by 50%. That 22kn link becomes 11kn. The girth hitch is a culprit here. Especially as a sling is rated for a straight pull on two stands. It's probably impossible to have equalised and redundant without knots, but it's making a bomber setup sub-par if 12kn is considered the minimum value for a solid anchor. No wonder everyone has different ideas.

just use a grigri lol

I did one here at Rumney yesterday, I was actually supervising a buddy doing his first rappel, I led the pitch & anchored in to the two belay bolts with a Dyneema quad anchor using my rope up to a screw gate on the quad anchor and back to my belay device with a clove hitch. But! Later when setting him up to go down first and untying the rope (to go thru cow horns) I untied my figure 8 without adding an extra anchor so I was actually not secured to the stance. Learning point is never untie your rope until you double check you are independently anchored by say an anchor draw.

Better to overhand mule on the breaking hand

thanks john mulaney

5:17 its your brake hand not break hand

I wonder how screws hold ropes and weight in snow...!! Like i watched climbing David Lama...! So i end up searching for these videos. Couldn't find any..!

Very helpful! Thanks, guys!

SOrry, but your "method" works only if the load strand is in front and the carabiner gate is on the right. People usually don't notice that and then try to use your method and fail.

Excellent.

A thing to add is that a second visual inspection of the follower rappel system would be nice. It requires both people getting on the rappel at the same time, which is a bit inconvenient.

They single most boring video I've ever watched

Or just use a bag... So much better than throwing it

Nice tutorial, thank you for your tips & tricks. I also sometimes use the saddle bag method for rappelling down, but I find that tightly wrapping the sling around the coil rope as shown in the video makes it difficult to rappel down in a smooth way. Instead, I use a loose sling, which allows to quickly rappel down, and anyway the coil rope remains in place and does not slip out due to weight on both sides.

I see you’re in little cottonwood canyon! Don’t come here it’s very bad climbing not fun.

Nice job 👌. Clearly explained and illustrated.

I have a question, why would you even plan to fully release the device by loading it with your own body weight? I think the way Petzl describes it in their manual allows for lowering and braking by tilting the device like you would a ClickUp for example. You lose that breaking option in this setup, no? Still with the third hand, there is extra security.

What purpose does the obwrhand knot have? What do you mean by "securing the rope"? It's right there with you!

I didn’t really understand the warning at the 5 minute mark? Can someone explain plz 😅

Not a very useful method if you're trying to escape the system with a climber hanging from the rope, which is one of the main uses of the munter mule. That strand you make a loop in will be loaded.

I'm sorry, 'break' hand? No, it's the BRAKE hand, for a very obvious reason! You shouldn't be getting that wrong, SIET.

More up to date, the girth hitch with a half twist in one of the clipping loops has been shown to be far stronger, while holding if a side strand fails, than an eight knot in the Dyneema type sling. The G hitch is adjustable, easily untied, and the locking biner it is tied into becomes the master point, rather than a webbing loop. It seems to be about the best option currently used in slippery static slings, and should be learned as a safer, stronger replacement for any anchor slings where knots dramatically reduce strength. While most anchors will never experience severe loads, every occasion just might become that rare instance where such loads can be generated, and a complacent, "good enough" attitude, when a better option is available, could turn into an entry in annual In Memoriam essays.

Cool explanations. Thanks a lot!

One thing that helps me remember for the munter is your turning the key with the same hand as the carabiner gate

STRADS = SOLID, TIMELY, REDUNDANCY, ANGLE, about 30-45 degrees between the two bolts and master point. DISTRIBUTION (of weight), equalize the weight. SHOCKLOAD.

We were practicing this at a training at a course and my partner unlocked the belay device without a third hand or in our course we were supposed to use a munter. I fell onto the backup knot. I was surprised, they were surprised. At least we were basically on the ground so it wasn't a fall as much as it was a brisk surprise walk. Do practice in a safe setting

Nice video, from Colombia we are learning. Thanks a lot

I like watching these videos on how things are done today. As an old man who climbed decades ago you would not believe how things were done back in the day. I never used any device belaying my second.We used a figure eight device for belaying a lead climber and that was about it. I learned to repel and catch a lead climber without using any belay device, just the friction from my waist. Yes is was painful and my waist would get rope burned. This all said I never dropped anyone and I climbed all over the country. The new gear looks nice. I never even thought of belaying two people at one time. I guess on big walls that would come in handy. Thanks for sharing. My nephew who does a lot of indoor climbing keeps trying to get me back into climbing but that ship has sailed. Thanks

Thank you for a very well presented, instructive video! I have one question. Why use the carabiner hole on the reverso? I've seen videos show that connection made to the breaking biner. When the belayer puts their weight on the sling the effect will be very similar, but it is easier to clip a sling to the breaking biner than to feed a sling through the carabiner hole, particularly if you don't have a thin enough sling to hand. I think it is still important to have the cat knot, 3rd hand and redirect, in any case. Thanks again!

The traditional way to tie off the Italian Hitch/Mezzo Barcaiolo/Halbmastwurfsicherung was with two half hitches and that still works well.

Hello can i ask a question. What is the length of express sling in 7:54min-8:17min ?

Ive never seen so many double actions in a single video

Dude threw the Alpine bomb like a 7 year old girl forced to play ball with the boys lol... Just strange from a climbing instructor I guess... Good vid tho and subbed

You should also show theREAL equalette that had 2 main and important advantages: it doesnt take much materieal and it is perfect when protection are far from each other

The equalette you are showing is not the equalette but the Quad

A few weeks ago 4 of us attached to an anchor through the night trying to untangle two 70m ropes tied together so we could rappel. That knot was chaos. Nightmares.

Hate the fact that the climber 2 is bagged up, what happened ?

How did you guys spell brake wrong at 5:14... come on man . Video was reviewed by 2 or more certified guide and/or SIET instructions? Really?

I just post arborist video's but you guys are (or were?) waaay more technical! Thanks for sharing all these vids!

Italian Hitch. Tried and tested for safe controlled descent. Prusik not correct for this task

I feel like 2 overhands for near each anchor and then a magic x on q sling that has 4 strands per side is super good enough.

Video to safe lifes!

Hmm... For 3 person team, I'd do 40m rope. 10m between the climbers, and then each person at the end has 10m to do the rescue with. You don't have to be able to reach the fallen climber with a loop to haul them up - use a prussik and a pulley to pull the rope that goes to the fallen climber. This also works if the fallen climber is unconscious and can't receive a loop.

I love the video, at minute 5, there are too many cooks in that kitchen, I think she even caught herself double checking the double check. You and your climbing partner always have duties that are specific, I have never combined those duties in a collective mindset, again, it removes the mental flow chart and creates a dangerous potential hazard

nice video. just noticed - quite much loops....looks like rope is cutting white sling (2:36)

The better third hand to prevent losing control on a rappel is the use of the VT prusik. It is made of material that is highly resistant to burning, so if you need to stop while going fast of for long distances, you won't melt the system. The most important aspect, is that you don't need to extend your rappel device. The VT goes above your rappel device and once it is tightened, it can be easily released with a simple hand movement. A rappel device that is extended has various problems. The extension places the rappel device closer to our hair or jacket hood. Getting ones hair caught in a rappel device is a dangerous situation. Dirt, mud or ice on our rope has a higher chance of getting into our eyes. Another issue with extending the rappel device is that you weaken the strongest portion of your rappel system. Having your rappel device directly connected to your harness tie in spot is the strongest possible choice. Extending your device adds another link into the system. This link is not as strong as your harness tie in. By using your PAS or sling, you are using equipment that routinely is subjected to abrasion during climbing. Stitching can become weaker with use and this can be hard to detect. Regardless, there is no reason to induce additional equipment and risk because the use of the VT prusik is far better and obviates the risk of extending systems.

Hello, I would like to know what carabiners you use for the reverse, the dual Connect, machard knot, thanks!