Thanks

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching. Happy flying!!

Thank you for watching

This gear came from Extreme Fight. It is for their 48" Extra 300.

@ghostriderrc Thank you for the info. Just bought a used one, and the guy said the stock gear was a bit flimsy. That's how I found your video looking for alternatives. Thanks again.

Okay, glad you found your answers. This is still the best mod I have done to this plane.

This gear came from Extreme Fight. It is for their 48" Extra 300.

I could not find a FOD screen that was in stock in the US. So, I picked up this FOD screen from Ali Express. I did a search for "turbine FOD screen" and a couple of options came up. I picked the one that best fit the outside dimension of my JetCat and planned to modify it.

Also, I have been thinking about doing a turbine training series. This would track how I have setup an EDF to prepare me to fly this turbine. Do you think a series like that would be helpful or not really?

@@ghostriderrc I’ve wanted to fly turbines for a while. A friend let me fly his reaction 15? years ago. It was like flying a pattern/trainer airplane. I bought an E-Flite 90mm viper to practise with. Mainly to practise circuits and landing approaches with a sleeker airplane with flaps. I’m not new to rc. I’ve been flying RC for 60 years. I mostly have been flying Giant Scale TopFlite War Birds. Last year I flew my Turbinator 2, with SkyCandy Lights, which really help for tracking the airplane in the air. What a great hobby. I’ve met lots of pilots from around the world through it.

I purchased it from Extreme Flight. It is the gear for their 48" Extra.

I use BSI 30 min epoxy. Any two part epoxy should work well. The 30 min gives you enough time to get everything in place before it starts setting up.

I consider a conservative CG to be on the nose heavy side. An indicator of this would be, pull a 45 degree upline and roll inverted, the plane wants to pull toward the ground pretty quickly. I consider a good CG to be, perform the same test, the plane would hold that line for a long time before starting to drift toward the ground. I set my 3D planes where they will fly hands off inverted on a horizontal line. A more conservative CG pushes the weight forward. Because, as they say, a nose heavy plane flies sluggish and a tail heavy plane flies once.

No additional packing. I drilled the gear to match the original mounting holes in the fuse.

I use a 3s 3300 mah battery placed as far back as I can get it. This puts my setup where it is hands off when inverted. You will want it to be more forward than I have mine for your maiden. I recently did a maiden for a guy at my club and his was just behind the aft limit in the manual. This gave it an IMAC type of CG. He is using a 4s 2200 mah battery in the middle of the compartment. I really think the recommended CG is very conservative as far as stability is concerned. If you have flown sport planes before, place the CG at the aft limit or just past (1/4") and you should be fine on your maiden. Give yourself a couple of rates with varying expo so you can get a good feel on the first flight. Other than that she really wants to fly. Happy flying and good luck with your maiden.

I also really think the factory suggested C/G is very conservative. @@ghostriderrc

I now have 30+ landings on this gear, no issues at all. This was one of the best upgrades I have ever done to a plane. I say that as far as the amount of improvement from original to modified.

I use a 3s 3300 mah battery and have a timer set for 6 min. I typically land with the battery at a storage charge. This gives me plenty of charge if I need to do a go around or two.

@@ghostriderrc Thanks for the response. I have mine all assembled, but haven't had a chance to Maiden it yet. I have a " 4s " 3300 shoved all the way up to the motor, and it's still Way tail heavy. Did you have to add weight to yours to balance it. Also, Where is yours balanced at.

I have found that this is a decent flyer. Not great, but not horrible. I agree that the gear is not good (hence the upgrade). I never take the wings off, so I can't speak for the wing bolts. I have the bind and fly version, so maybe the AS3X system is helping more than I realize. I have mine trimmed just right and she hoolds anline nice and tight. Also, I have added some mixing to mine to correct a few places where the airframe falls short. Be diligent with getting her trimmed out and I think you will like it more than you thought you would.

I considered turning the servo around, but the wire would be pointing toward the rudder. It made the servo wire turn too tight for my liking.

So, not really a complaint. However, I have seen it done better. I do understand that there is a black theme going on and it looks nice. I myself {like most of us) install the wing tube in the first wing I am putting on and then put the wing in place. This makes installing the wings easier and guarantees the wing tube is in place. However, the real point is that I have seen guys pick up the wreckage and then realize that they forgot the wing tube.

Richard, Thanks for watching. What you said here is correct, in part. It is not particularly wrong, but misleading since there is a lot of info that is missing and a number of different concepts in play. You mentioned that HV servos will pull less amps depending to the spec, which is true. If we look at the power formula it tells us that, for two identical spec servos, as voltage goes up amps go down. However, when we are talking about 6v to 7.4v it doesn't move the needle that much. If we look at the same servo with different voltage the servo actually gets slower, so not really the same spec since the performance changes. All of this to say that we shouldn't just generalize this concept by saying more voltage equals less amps. You also mention that a shorter servo arm will reduce the amp draw. This is true for any servo since it reduces the output torque required from the servo. I don't think many people realize the advantages of using shorter arms. It seems like these days people just throw a longer arm on it and program the transmitter to get the throws they want. On my servo setups I set the transmitter to max movement {150) and then select the shortest arm that gives me the throws I want. This technique also gives you better resolution from the servo, which equals a more precise stick movement to servo movement link. For this video, I think the greatest advantage to the relatively low amp draw came from selecting brushless servos. The brushless servos that are on the market today are so much more efficient than brushed servos. They are actually so efficient they will throw power back toward the receiver. On any setup with brushless servos you should have a capacitor in the system to absorb the power that comes back from the servos. Again thanks for watching my video and commenting. I think it is great to have these types of discussions and learn from each other.

I used FoamTAC. I haven't had any looseness issues at all.

@@ghostriderrc Thanks