Does it have to be reprogramed /relearn process ?

Can someone explain why this is disappointing? It's not a traditional full-float and you can't just slide out the axle but who is actually snapping axles often enough to make that a deal-breaker? Can't see a reason you couldn't pull this axle on a trail without much issue. A bolt on unit bearing should be plenty strong and a lot easier to replace than servicing an integrated bearing. The front wheel bearings seem to hold up fine so why would the rears be different. Finally, the lug pattern. This keeps the 5 on 5 lug pattern so all the rims stay the exact same as every other JK, JL, and JT ever made. To accommodate a traditional full-float hub they would have to change the front and rear lug pattern, use different rims, and then the full-float model is different to everything else out there. For this reason alone they were never going a traditional full float.

Just call it 33 inches 🤷‍♂️

Damn that's CLEAN!!!!! Love the harness style connection!! DO tell!!!!!

1180 Morris Point

would this also cause a sway after all other steering links and ball joints replaced?

HI, what the letter D means?

What bearing set did you use I need two of them

Not very informative at all?

Wondering if there is a conversion for 2022 JLUR? Could this hub assembly bolt onto older model housing. Bolt pattern looks similar.

My 1943 Ford GPW had a full floating rear axle!

It would be interesting to see if this actually improves the strength of the axles. I also wonder if you could upsize this unit bearing design for larger axles.

What is the length difference between the two bars

An old customer sent me a link to this channel about a week ago. I’ve only watched a few of his vids but from what I’ve seen this gentleman knows what he’s talking about.

Having had a shop for over 30 years and had more front and rear axle assembly’s part than I can count as I told an old customer at best it’s a Mickey Mouse full float. If I have to do anything more than than remove a few bolts and a drive flange to either tear down the center section or change an axle shaft it’s a very cheap imitation. Another example of Stellantis (Chrysler has very little if anything to say about what comes out of their assembly lines now) and )eep going cheap Charlie. Now that my rant is over you did an excellent job on exactly what’s going on with this axle assembly.

This is exactly what i assumed when they announced it. Unit bearing on rear axles.

Did you happen to check spline count?

Roughly every half turn of the steering wheel is an inch of side to side axel movement.

Since 1941 Jeep hasn’t been listening to its core users. Make you 😂

1 Tonne axle ona $98,000 (AUD) you thought. Come on, Pal You don’t get that on an almost $100,000 vehicle. 😂

How do you reset the system if it notices that the sensors replaced?

The death wobble zone for my 09 JK was 50 - 55 mph. I just replaced the 15 years old steering components and everything seems to be a lot tighter, hitting bumps doesn't generate the kind of harshness anymore. Hopefully this will fix the problem for a few years down the road.

Great explanation 👌

Get a reclaim or rivet cutting tip and you can cut closer than you did with your grinder with a torch.

Nice video. My question is can you change to this style setup on an older JL/JLU M220,M210, axels

Amazing 👏

I took the flange nut off , tried a puller , did several burnouts , heated it and trust me , them flanges just dont strip or come off . lol . They are as good as welded .

I have a 2 1/2 lift but every thing else is new but still factory track bar, draglink and stuff. Would I need a flipped draglink. I have bad bump steering it’s all over and a floating feel when hitting bumps or cracks in road. Please help I’ve been dealing with this problem for about a year and no shops in my area can figure it out.

Thank you! Very well explained 👍

First video I've seen that mentions putting the arm on first! Thank you! I'm having such a hard time getting everything lined up. Hopefully, this helps!

Installing a new rear Bodyguard bumper on my 2021 JTR Gladiator and my sensors were all a real pain to get unplugged. That's why I found your video to see exactly how to unplug the darn things but mine were nowhere near as easy as yours, but I finally worked them loose without breaking anything. I found no good examples anywhere else, so I appreciate you doing this video for people.

Miss these videos 🙏 keep em coming!!

Question: I have a 2020 Jeep Wrangler JL. Putting on a steel bumper to replace the factory bumper. I successfully removed all (4) sensors and respective parts; however, the order of the sensors themselves got mixed up (as far as: far left, center left, center right, far right). Are the sensors themselves interchangeable? Can they go in any of the sensor locations on the bumper?

Is this the same as a 2010

I absolutely cannot wrap my head around how flushing the heater core changes the temp between driver and passenger sides. If it's blowing hot on the passenger side it means the heater core is getting hot and working, so why or how does it continue to blow cold on the drivers side? It makes absolutely no sense. Help me understand.

I remember when mine had 30k Miles .. now I'm at 76k 😠

Do you happen to have a part number / link to where to get a new blend door actuator?

I have these same problems on my ADD Stealth Fighter front and rear bumpers for my 2020 1500 Ram. Thanks for this video, as it gives me ideas on how I can troubleshoot my sensors.

Hello great video. Question I’m doing this , where can I get the bearing kit? Race, spacer, etc etc . Can’t find the parts. Thanks

Thank you really helpful

Jeeps are made like junk buy one new and have to put $4,000 i to it to drive safely

बॉयकॉट जीप रांगलर

I have a 2015 JK . 3.5 lift kit. I don't need that?

What do you do with the Thrust Block in the spider gear in the differential? I don't think it's needed anymore as there is no wheel bearing adjustment. Is it just left to bounce around in the diff?

At 2:30 removing the small collar. Since the collar is the only part of the bearing touching and held in by the back plate, the small collar must be the only thing that stops the axle shaft coming out when fully assembled. When bolted down, the back plate and then the collar push on the ends of the bearing rollers which then push on the outer race. Therefore the inner race and therefore the axle shaft is left to flop about. How is the bearing kept tight so there is no play at the wheel ?

Thank you for the video. I have a 2012 JKU, getting ready to put on Bilstein 5100 shocks and Icon dual rate coil springs, 3" on the front 2" on the back with 33" tires, front and rear steel bumpers, which on the front and full-size spare on the back, it's too heavy for my current shocks and springs...hoping this will improve the ride a bit without putting on an adjustable front track bar or lower control arms, only time will tell.

This video helped me fix my jeep. Thank you

Oh good, another thing I have to buy that kits never include. I'm really starting to HATE my Jeep.

Thank you for all the information 🙏

PepBoys installed new bearings and spacer ON my '84 CJ7 (along with a new TruTrac diff) and didn't know what they were doing. Within 5 miles I thought my brakes were dragging it got so hot. They redid it and still didn't get it right, so when I got back to Michigan I had my local Ring and Pinion shop redo it. They had to replace the axles as PepBoys screwed up the axle removing the bearings.