Jeep JK with Weak Heater or Clicking / Popping under Dash

[@Efferri]

First video I've seen that mentions putting the arm on first! Thank you! I'm having such a hard time getting everything lined up. Hopefully, this helps!

[@patelliott39]

Thank you for saving me $500 bucks. I suddenly had no heat, no clicking & warm hoses. Fixed this with the $23 part from Autozone in an hour.

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

That's what we love to hear!!! So glad to have helped!!

[@thesilversurferhackerking]

Thank you guys you are so amazing! You help me so much I've been searching for months how to fix this... You are God's amongst men!🤟✌️🤟✌️🤟

[@Chevyanything]

Mine was clicking I would have figured it out but man you video made quick work of it thanks

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@gtrad1]

Does it have to be reprogramed /relearn process ?

[@tyrowan85]

I have hot heat on passenger and cold to warm on drivers side... did a coolant flush, and core flush, no blockages...

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

It's not so much the blockage, as it is removing the sludge that the factory coolant develops over a few years. I find that flushing my system every two years is easy enough and also keeps it like new. Ignore the whole 10 yr/100k mile garbage that Mopar lists on their coolant. Its more like 3 yrs tops. Don't switch off of that coolant, just flush it every 2 to 3 yrs and go back with Mopar fluid.

[@conniebennett6646]

I was told there's a way to reset the actuator on the blend doors but I forgot how. Maybe left battery DC over night

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

So after a sleep cycle and ignition strike, they should relearn themselves.

[@cornwasher]

And this is why I bought the Service Contract on my Chrysler Jeep product.... Have had my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee five days and four things have gone wrong so far. This might be some kind of record and really bad carma....!

[@christophertomlinson414]

Very helpful discussion! Thanks

[@robmclear9976]

Is there a video that was done to show how to remove the lower vent that blocks access to this? Thanks!

[@JeepRoad]

Me too. Mine doesn't just "pop" loose or anything

[@RossyOHarmada]

On mine I had to take vent apart. So i had to remove the bottom half and then the top half.

[@allabout4019]

Did you or anyone hear the clicking after you unlocked the vehicle? Before you even put key in ignition?

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

There is a sleep mode in which you can hear various actuators moving around once the vehicle senses you are gone (no activity for awhile). I havent paid much attention as to when I return to the Jeep, but good chance you can open up the panels to get access and look through there and watch as you reenact your entry and start up routine.

[@allabout4019]

@@PlatinumOffRoad I read on a jeep forum and then saw your video and they both seem to describe what us going on. We really liked your video, by the way. Gonna take a look at it this weekend, before there is no heater/defroster!

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

@@allabout4019 a solid flush is going to help out tremendously! Getting our actuator to work again was helpful, but still lacked extreme HEAT! The flush brought things back to the way they were the winter I owned this Jeep

[@allabout4019]

Platinum Off Road agreed, we’ll be doing a flush next. And replacing the hvac control module (I think that’s what hubby called it).

[@TerraFirmaX]

Awesome, thank you.

[@petejr7599]

We change the blend door actuator and flush the water and we are still having the same issue with hot on one side and cold in the over side

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Purge the thermostat and keep doing it till the heater blows hot. Here at the shop, we turn the heater to high, and we don't stop purging the system until the far driver vent is blowing HOT.

[@JPG010783]

Do you happen to have a part number / link to where to get a new blend door actuator?

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Best thing is always contact your local dealership parts counter. Give them the last eight of your VIN and then you won't have any confusion.

[@cmccarthy]

I absolutely cannot wrap my head around how flushing the heater core changes the temp between driver and passenger sides. If it's blowing hot on the passenger side it means the heater core is getting hot and working, so why or how does it continue to blow cold on the drivers side? It makes absolutely no sense. Help me understand.

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Just flush it and see the miracle yourself. Lol literally. The heater core is hot enough to supply nearby heat, but not hot enough to supply long range heat. Grab a digital thermometer gun and check the vent output. Even what you think is hot or warm on the passenger vents, is not all that hot compared to what it could be.

[@FRWD_FXLRST]

Is it true if the hvac module blinks at start up its out of memory and needs to be replaced?

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

I wouldn't say it's out of memory. Rather, it's faulty and needs replaced. So upon initial ignition start up, the AC or defrost display light will flash for about 10 second or less. That's the sign it needs replaced. I've not known another way around it, other than just getting a new switch head.

[@ramsesavila6314]

Liked just for the introduction 👍

[@conniebennett6646]

Mine does the max heat once it's been off for a while. Then within sec. The left middle and far left vents starts blowing sort of cold and very cold. The mid right and the far right are warm and hot

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

If the actuator is staying full temp and you begin to get varying output temps (colder as you go towards driver), then give the system a very very thorough flush. Especially the heater core portion.

[@XxProRider]

Need to take hose off of upper hose on drivers side fill with funnel , prob have vapor lock ,,,,, this will work

[@4WDTrek]

I did have that issue with mine. Did a video on replacing the heater core and the radiator for the dreaded casting sand. Had to do those hoses as well

[@simonerubino52]

Is this the same as a 2010

[@rhemo6322]

My actuator moves at all cold side notches on the temp dial then stops advancing when the temp dial is turned to the first red notch for heat and does not move when the temp dial is turned any further into the heat side of the dial. Is that the actuator or the dial?

[@jimb3900]

I have a 17 jeep compass. A previous owner (bought from a dealer) took off the actuator and the arm (its the same on as in the video) that is on the actuator that operates the blend door. The Chrysler dealer does not sell that part. Does anyone know where to get one? Can someone fabricate the arm? What are the dimensions of the arm (thickness, length, width)? Thanks for your help

[@wiseup216]

Might want to try a local junk yard.

[@Krugerj1007]

Have you had the cool air return on the driver side (given it's over a year now since you flushed the entire system)? Reason I ask is trying to decide if it's worth simply replacing the heater core entirely if ultimately it gets clogged again within a year of doing a full flush.

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

You are very much correct. So the system uses a Non Acid mixture to prevent corrosion to the aluminum components from electrolysis. This mixture is more apt to gum up with what looks like a glass of tea left out for a week in the heat and you get that marbling swirl of some nastiness. That stuff will sludge up your system. The best performance we've seen on client and personal systems is from a complete coolant flush and exchange. Thoroughly flush each portion of the coolant system and return with brand new MOPAR non-acidic coolant per your VIN. Get it in concentrate from the dealer.. it's pretty cheap nowadays.

[@richardturk7162]

You think Jeep (Chrysler) would fix these issues My 2012 JK is having heat issues so its going to get a heater core flush soon. My 2004 Nissan Xterra has never had side to side heat issues or blend door issues.

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

I personally theorize the coolant selection. With the Organic Acid Technology (OAT) formulas I've seen a lot of gumming up or nasty gunk forming within the coolant and I imagine that is what is causing the clogging or restriction of the smaller channels like the heater core. As for the actuators, those little guys are commonly used in a variety of vehicles outside of the Mopar line. Maybe other manufacturers are using a different plant when selecting their units.

[@4WDTrek]

It may be the casting sand issue that i had. I did a video on that fix. A bit more involved but do-able

[@ChrisBurnsATL]

Doing it now. Can’t get that air duct to come off! 2013 Jeep JKU. It’s driving me crazy. Any tips??

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

It can be a true pain, to be honest. Sometimes we've had to use tiny curve-picks to reach it and release the tabs

[@conniebennett6646]

Man thanks for the access info and the description. But seeing all this done instead of described after the fact isn't a lot of assistance with the removal and install.

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

You're absolutely correct. I wish we inserted the actual procedure within the video. We tried to mount a camera up under the dash and my hands kept the viewer from even seeing the removal. There just isn't much space under there to get a good shot.. at least not with the equipment we have or have access to.

[@simonyoh1256]

Hey C. Bennett, this is a much easier method than what I did for my 2013 JK Rubicon. I took the whole dash out and removed everything. I'm doing it the second time around cuz the actuator failed again. First time I bought the model from O'Reilly's, then this time around I just went with the OEM. Hopefully it'll last for more than one year. Jeeps, gotta love 'em, but u need heat!!!

[@simonyoh1256]

So use platinum off road method vs taking the whole dash out

[@Max-vv5cw]

Love your videos

[@bryanphelan1104]

Did you use an 8mm open end wrench on the lower bolt holding the vertical support by the duct ? I can get a socket on it but not enough room to swing the ratchet (SnapOn 3/8 dr).? Thank you.

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

It's been awhile, but it will either be a 10mm or 8mm on pretty much everything under there.

[@Opticpain]

Here's a question, my 2011 jeep liberty clicks under driverside dash when you open any door. Heat works, AC works and no check engine lights. Nothing seems to be affected by this clicking and no sure what it could be.

[@angelscoach]

Platinum off-road I have the same thing. Any idea?

[@Opticpain]

@@angelscoach it ended up being some actuator in the dash. Wasn't sure about the cause or why but had a mechanic replace it and it stopped doing that.

[@renzog1237]

My heater blows hot air on Max and lukewarm to cool on any of the other heat settings. Will this address this issue

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Use this video to monitor the actuator. See what positions it will hit and hold. We've seen so many temp issues come through the doors here, 95% of the time it is the temp blend door actuator. We have had a couple where it was the actual temp control switch head (the fan, temp, and mode switch panel). Some year models will require a dealer to sync and flash the new actuators and switches, so don't be alarmed if even after a new actuator, it still acts quirky... go get it flashed, calibrated, whatever you wish to call it.

[@anthonygallo3576]

In my case,same symtoms,however the rear defrost light ,located on the knob would flash,when it did the fan would cut off.this is the computer,trying to reprogram the bad door.,jeep confirmed this with a scan.its there right now being fixed under the warranty.wish me luck i cant see why they have had it all day .taking a ride over in a bit thanks,next time covered or not,i will do it myself

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Very much true. Usually when a bad switch or control head is involved, the indicator lights will flash for maybe 10 seconds after initially turning on the Jeep.

[@waleedalkindi2265]

Amazing 👏

[@elpaz527]

My Jeep actuators is clicking 24/7 even with no keys 🔑 on driver and passenger actuator what could it be??

[@finalthought3888]

Im having same issue

[@rigobertosalazar1878]

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[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Yes. They go into a sleep mode and restore to a sleep position. If the parameters are not being met by the sensor, the. I could see a skipping gear within the actuator not allow the unit to fully reach the desired position... which will continue to cause the actuator to receive power in that direction continuously

[@FATHERKNOSEBEST]

Too much plastic! Especially for the high price tag of Jeeps. Great video though!

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Thank you!

[@todpharis4996]

Where are the other two actuators? Lol

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Take out your passenger side glove box (super easy) and you'll start to see them

[@PlatinumOffRoad]

Sleep mode. After so long the actuators will return to a sleep mode by command of the ECM

[@jmendoza1174]

Do all three go to a sleep mode? I hear the clicking sound only when unlock button is pressed on key fob and or 5min after turning off the vehicle. Witch of the three would be clinking?

[@flash1034]

Gotta love plastic gears…..