It's the thing in the middle that's not to oily

Thank u it's called the shifter linkage

Can u give alternative suggestions

Probably correct, however irrelevant, it gets plenty wet every time it rains..

Take the castle nut off, then take the washer and outer bearing out. Put the castle nut back on , give the rotor a tug making sure the nut grabs the inner bearing. The seal and bearing should pop right out and stay on the spindle. Just make sure you put the castle nut on far enough so you don't strip the threads before popping the inner bearing out.

it does but lots of guys swap out the orange DEXCOOL because of reports that it can become corrosive if you get air in your coolant system.

I have done it on my 1994 Caprice B4U. It's not that hard.

it's basically removing the front fan belt, which is easy. Then removing the old main drive belt in the back, which is easy enough if you can get to the tensioner in the back. Then just weave the new belt through and over the pulleys...

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didn't have to take off, use universal and 15mm long-ass Extention can get all bolts from trans, dislike rusty trans cooler lines careful blue tip wrench

Thanks! I appreciate it. I have BIG plans for that Caprice in the future. Look forward to twin turbs build.

Lookup PN 74040 on rockauto. I believe that is the one you need.

Mike's Garage Thanks for fast response

Its my pleasure, Thank you for watching.

the rear hub is directly attached to the axle.

First of all, its cool yours has 4 wheel disk brakes. You should be able to press out the bad stud and replace with a new one. Not sure if you have to remove the axle or not. if you do have to pull the axle, its simple. Open the diff cover, push axle in and remove the c clip. then axel should slide out. reverse process to install. dont forget to add friction modifier to the diff fluid if you have limited slip, (which should be indicated witha metal tag on one of the diff cover bolts). Hope that helps.

Thanks, I figured that out as well and has since been fixed correctly.

Hi Tom!!

@@MikesGarageWorks Hi Mike! I haven't logged into KZbin probably all year and I do today to see this! Call or SMS me sometime dude!

Sorry for the late response. The bolt has to come off.

Yea, sorry about that.. I was new to filming then. I tried to edit most of that out, which kinda says something about how bad it was to start. Thanks for watching though.

yeah I see so many people filming and the camera is moving so fast all you get is a blur at times... and they don't hold the camera on any one thing for you to get a good look at what your seeing

It has a nice firm shift as i ordered the transmission with some upgrades. its rated for ~800 Ft lbs. I wanted it to hold what i have in store for it later. Thanks for watching!

A crazy thing happend with a company van it was with a 96 astro..I had never seen dexcool coolant before so I asumed with the dark color it was bad..Took it to the auto repair shop where the fleet. gets its vans serviced and they changed it out with green coolant..shouldn't they have known this was wrong being professionals?

Blk Popeye you can use either or you just cant mix them both

It doesn’t matter, as long as you don’t mix it. Dexcool is absolute garbage anyhow

You can see on the radiator shroud that it says to use DEX-COOL fluid only. At some point they drained out the orange and put in the green. Vehicles prior to 1996 had regular green antifreeze. GM made the change over to DEX-COOL in 1996 with the B Bodies. Also, the method shown only drains what’s in the radiator, which is about 1 gallon out of a 4 gallon system. You may have to repeat this multiple times to completely replace all the coolant.