Is microtraxion good for TRS?

Nice men

This really seems to be a very involved way to rescue someone. It seems like you are showing the rescue on a glacier without any snow cover (as your client seems to have fallen into the crevasse without being attached to a rope). Why are you using a static 5m cordelette as safety in that scenario? It should be safe to not use a rope at all. In addition to that, a fall on several meters of slack on a static line would certainly not do you any good at all. I assume that you’re rappelling down because your client is unconscious. With all the adrenaline rushing, it is easy to loose your rope down that crevasse as it is not attached to anything when you’re throwing both ends down. Thy do you rappel on a munter if you have an ATC available that is not needed until after you get backup? I do not understand why you don’t use a figure 8 knot to attach the rope to your client, especially as it is already present at the end of the strand? How do you plan on pulling your client up? Do you simply pull that lifeless body over the razor sharp surface of the ice? Wouldn‘t it be better to carry that person on your back in the scenario that you are showing? If your client is conscious, why not just drop the end of the rope with a figure 8, ask him to attach it to the belay loop, do a 5:1 and be done with it in no time? You carry a lot of gear: you seem to carry a pulley, an ATC, two ice screws and eight carabiners but no Micro Traxion and no Tibloc. That seems a lot of weight and some of that gear is unexpected to me.

Nice video, thank you! I was a first responder before being a guide, and I recommend adding some sugar in the "brain" of your bag. Ideally some glucose gel. It is common for clients to need an energy boost or have a sugar drop. Also, if it is gel, it can be rubbed in the gums if a person is unconscious due to diabetes. This combined with a quick chewable electrolyte pill can really bring blood pressure back up quickly.

Great with your lively explanations!

the voice sounds like the funny iceclimbing guy that was guest / featured on "how not 2´s iceclimbing introduction."

Nice video! You are putting a 2:1 on a 3:1 that makes it a 6:1or did I miss something?

Re 14:00 At this point, you have the client tied snugly into the upper anchor & ATCg, & into the local anchor/ice screw (assuming they put it in?) which they might (be told) want to remove, or else keep until they eventually feel the tension of your haul system, but while their anchor is still loose enough for them to remove. (Talk first, or yell later.)

Well put together video. Great point about wearing out the front welts.

Great value demo-Thanks! What gloves are those?

At the time you are getting ready to rappel down into the crevasse, I think I count you are using 8 lockers and one plain carabiner. That’s a lot of gear! What’s your standard gear list for glacier travel?

Is it the best to go there while there is daylight?

Thanks!

Munter with the break strand over the ‘biner’s gate? I know it should tighten the locking ring if braking lefty. But, why put more wear on the rope? Also no redirect off the Prussik?

Sweet, thanks)

best video on this subject!

Hey Mike, top thematic chanel for Iceland, thank you!

Excellent info. But y'all are better than to play into the mental illness of modern society by rescuing "its."🙄

Bad Ass

Hi. I love these videos! I've discovered them only recently. It's always important to actually do stuff in the right environment instead of "dry" demonstrations where you have to imagine things. At the same time, you keep the explanation clear but not too verbose. One thing about this video, I'd put the pulley always on the strand you pull. Since MA gets multiplied in stages, attrition reduction benefits from the same multiplication. In other words, making the MA close to you more efficient is better than making the MA close to the load more efficient. Another way to look at it: it's better to make the hands stronger than the weight lighter. Yet another way: you put the pulley where the rope travels the most, which is always the strand you pull (if not, you're really doing something wrong). Pick the one that's easier to remember. And BTW, it doesn't make that much of a difference, so in practice one pulley in the system is better than no pulleys, and sometimes better go for convenience rather than max efficiency.

Thank you !

Brothaaaaa!!! EXCELLENT teaching skills🙌🙌one of the clearest and best described/depicted videos covering top site lowers I’ve ever seen. Keep up the good work!🤙🤙

Tibloc also works well and BD Gridlock can be set up to tend a simple system with just a friction hitch by running the rope through the small end of the Gridlock.

What gloves are you using ?

Do you ever use atc guide at the anchor as progress capture for crevasse rescue if you didn’t have micro traction? Or is that too much friction.

Great video, helpful to just have the camera on the anchor. thank you!

You guys are a bunch of bumblers. You don’t clip into the end of the rope with a locker unless you need easy escape from the system for example glacier travel. For water fall ice you should be tied in through both belay loops with a follow through figure 8

How is written your greetings in Icelandic? Sounds very funny 👍

Hey congratulations, very good instructional video. Perfect and very clear explanation, love it! What do you think about the technique used in this video at min 06:00: the loop with micro traxion in combination with Tribloc can be dropped from above kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYaymKKMecmBrqM Regards

I think I'm missing something but why is the application of a mule knot needed for the non drop loop scenarios? Wouldn't an 8 or alpine butterfly be effective for getting the climber tied into the system? As a side note, love the vids and the format, the 6:1 vid was great. If you're taking requests I would love to see your 5:1 z haul setup. Drop loop is rad but sometimes I'm fearful I won't have enough rope to do a drop loop.

Great video. Love the system you're using. I've never ascended with a micro traxion so I was wondering. Would it be advisable to throw a catastrophe knot or some sort of back up in while you ascend?

Hi Mike, love your setups and explanations, clear, precise considered. Good to see you have made more videos. Thank you.

prusik should be tied with a double fishermans/ barrel knot never with an overhand. Also the knot should be off set, you should never have to knot resting on the carabiner.

can the people on the tour climb in the caves?

The new AR Arctery bags do have the "brains" again.

Very helpful thnks

The prussik is not going to work if the climber falls where you had it as it will pull into the ATC. Why don't you just put the prussik and the climbers side of the ATC?

Great video!! Thanx for posting

Thank you for mentioning why not to belay with a microtraxion that was good info.

The water is so pure that the ice glaciers formed are nearly invisible. You guys are really lucky to experience this wonder.

Great videos! Enjoyed the 5:1. Wondering if you have a pulley to make the haul more efficient where would you add it? By the Tibloc or higher on the new haul / carabiner point? Great videos!

You should also show the fastest to rig and easiest to carry method vith instant progress capture, by using the petzl tibloc in progress save mode in a oval carabiner, not as smooth as a micro traxion, but less friction than using a atc in guide mode, works great.

What is the point of putting a mule on the victim?

I’m a major beginner so I’m only asking for learning purposes and not trying to critique. After you set the microtraxion you removed the Munter hitch and used a foot prussik. Would it be better to set up a backup such as a clove hitch below the microtraxion in case of a failure or is that over-redundant?

Waooooo 😍

Amazing, Iceland?

Hello. Thank you for the detailed info. Wondering if the DMM Pivot would work to accomplish the same task or does it need to be redirected as well when setting up a top-down climbing system?

keep going Mike! love it!

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYm3h5xvibWpic0