How to create an Ice Climbing Anchor - Top Roping

  Рет қаралды 1,740

Glacier Adventure

Glacier Adventure

3 жыл бұрын

The goal of a Top Roping anchor is to make sure the focal point is over the edge and in this video you will learn many ways to extend your anchor using a 5 meter length of 7mm cordelette.
When making these anchors, it's important to consider the strength of your anchor. If we take a single strand of 7mm cord, which is commonly rated for 13kn (1300kg) and we add a knot, we lose roughly 1/3 of the rated strength which would put us at about 867kg of strength. When we go down to the 2 strands of the focal we have about 16kn of strength, assuming that you have a double bite for your focal point knot. Take note, that if using single strands, a double bite at the focal is essential as noted in the video.
If you do choose this single strand method, as compared to joining the 7mm cordlette with a single fisherman's and using a loop, it is recommended that an 8mm cordlette is used which is rated for about 15-18kn and would be within safety standards.
Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.
Check out glacieradventure.is/courses/ to sign up for various Hard Ice courses.

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