@@Stoic-of-Rome No EGR delete was carried out

@@mattwalmer6162 I have to agree with you. Very poor oil cooler design on this engine

@TheKeenMechanic very poor oil cooler, turbo, intake, air box, and everything else design. Even their oil filter is stupid. Why not just use a spin on type filter like everyone else. This isn't 1934 anymore. Lol. How many hours did that whole job take you? Do you think its be easier removing the whole engine and placing it on an engine stand to do the job? I have the opportunity to buy a 2014 GL 350 Bluetech that has been well maintained with 100k, but videos on YT are scaring me. 😆

@mattwalmer6162 Hi Hard to calculate exact hours when filming videos but I guess I spent about 12 to 14hrs with the detail I went into. Sometimes people put the scariest stories on the internet. If I were you I would go for it but bare in mind most new cars suffer from issues with AdBlue system and it could be expensive to repair if you can't do it yourself. Best of luck

@@TheKeenMechanicI'd be removing the Ad Blue DEF system right away. I'm a trucker, and all they do is cause more problems and expense. Thanks.

@@armenianman5826 Yes, due to no space. Thanks

@@TheKeenMechanic Thank you for your replay. I bought 1994 bmw 530i and planning to replace the lower big gasket. Many many times I replaced the o-rings the original on oil filter housing on two hoses but it' still leaking the motor oil. I just got another o'rings from amazon chinese but it's still leaking.

@@armenianman5826 Best of luck, E34 is a great car

@@jimsmith5184 Is yours diesel or petrol?

@@Slyrs_Hunter Thank for watching buddy, I have a full engine rebuild coming soon, currently editing it. It will be a very long video but worth watching🤝🏻 Happy Christmas and a new year🥳

@@UFPANZER2 Plenty more to come. The channel is doing well and I really love working on cars so hoping to be able to produce a lot more quality content for everyone

@@10knik Crankshaft pulley

Yes, very expensive problem as the repair is expensive but if not repaired it is also expensive on oil as you stated it will leak 1.5l of oil every 5000km

@@prichgumpo7515 We all learn and sometimes the hard way 😄

@pavokx I don't believe they can be installed the wrong way but nothing will surprise me to be honest😄. It is a massive job to replace a valvecover and injector gaskets on these N57 engines but if you are getting leaks you will have to address the problem as it will only get worse. It could be the case of someone overfilling the engine with too much oil too or just poor quality gaskets were used. Best of luck and hope you get it sorted🤝🏻

I am sure it is possible but I personally wouldn't do it. It will probably cost less to sell your 2.0d and buy a 3.0d. Best of luck. The transmission is also different so definitely not financially wise

@@markamd1 Thank you for watching. Glad to hear you got the job done and that you found my tutorial useful. E class is a bit easier to work on, MLs are back breakers🤝🏻

Additional info: I got help from a mechanic to monitor the values from the EGR as we drove for a spin. We didn`t have reference values to lean on, but the EGR seemed to work normally. You can see the opening in % and the air mass on the iCarsoft instrument.

Hi Komodo, Thank you for your kind words and for subscribing to my channel! I appreciate the detailed explanation of your situation-it really helps to understand the context and provide meaningful guidance. I’ll address your questions and concerns one by one. 1. Checking the Swirl Flaps Actuator (Motor) Functionality Swirl flaps actuators can indeed be costly, so it’s wise to diagnose their functionality before replacing them. Here’s what you can do: Visual Inspection: Remove the intake manifold to see if the swirl flaps move freely without any obstruction. Sometimes carbon buildup can cause them to stick. Testing with Diagnostic Tools: Use your iCarsoft or a similar tool to observe the actuator's behavior during ignition cycles and at various engine loads. Ideally, the diagnostic tool should allow you to command the actuator to move and observe its response. Multimeter Test: If accessible, you can test the actuator motor's electrical resistance and verify if it falls within manufacturer specifications. If the motor doesn’t respond to commands or has abnormal readings, it may need replacement. If the swirl flap mechanism itself is intact, a repair kit may suffice. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly to prevent carbon buildup from causing future issues. 2. Preventing Cross-Contamination During Oil Cooler Removal To ensure you don’t get oil in the coolant or vice versa: Drain Both Systems: Draining the oil and coolant systems before disassembly is the safest approach. This minimizes the risk of cross-contamination during the job. Flush After Replacement: Even if you’re careful during the replacement, residual oil or coolant may linger. Perform a thorough flush of both systems after reassembly to remove any contaminants. Inspection During Disassembly: Check the oil cooler's gasket surfaces and sealing areas carefully. Clean these surfaces meticulously before installing new seals to ensure a tight fit. Use Fresh Fluids: After completing the job, refill both systems with fresh fluids to maintain optimal performance and longevity. 3. Fault Codes and Diagnosis Your fault codes provide valuable clues: 2511-1 (Y27/9 - Left EGR Positioner): This typically indicates an issue with the EGR valve's position feedback or its control circuit. Since you’ve already cleaned the EGR and verified its smooth operation, the problem may lie in: The EGR position sensor or its wiring. A fault in the EGR control module or its connection to the ECU. 2355-2 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control - Air Mass Too Large): This fault suggests excessive air bypassing the EGR system. Potential causes include: Leaks in the intake manifold or turbo system. Double-check for air leaks, especially where the damaged orange gasket was replaced. A malfunctioning mass airflow (MAF) sensor or an incorrectly calibrated sensor reading. Cleaning was a good first step, but consider testing or replacing the MAF sensor if the problem persists. An issue with the turbocharger. Since you mentioned damaged turbine blades, this may contribute to incorrect air readings or insufficient pressure. Installing the replacement turbo may resolve this. The fact that the EGR values seemed normal during live monitoring is promising, but without manufacturer reference values, it’s hard to conclude definitively. Once you install the new turbo and address potential intake issues, revisit the fault codes and monitor the system again to confirm resolution. Final Thoughts You’ve done an excellent job diagnosing and addressing the issues so far. Your plan to replace the turbo and address the swirl flaps is logical and aligns with the symptoms. After completing the repairs, I’d recommend: Performing another diagnostic scan to check for new or persistent codes. Observing live data during a test drive to ensure all systems are functioning as expected. Keeping an eye on fluid levels and system pressures to ensure everything is sealed correctly. Best of luck with your project, Komodo! Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or need further guidance. It sounds like your ML is in capable hands. Warm regards and Happy Christmas, The Keen Mechanic

it’s possible that a faulty swirl flap motor or its mechanism can contribute to these fault codes. Here’s why: EGR System and Air Mass Correlation: The swirl flaps are designed to optimize airflow in the intake manifold, improving combustion efficiency and reducing emissions. If the swirl flaps fail to operate correctly (due to a faulty motor or mechanical obstruction), the air-fuel mix can become inconsistent. This could: Mislead the EGR system into compensating incorrectly, causing fault code 2511-1. Result in an "air mass too large" fault (2355-2) if excess airflow bypasses the EGR circuit. Limp Mode: A malfunctioning swirl flap motor could exacerbate or trigger limp mode, especially when combined with other intake system issues like turbo damage or gasket leaks. Most modern swirl flap motors, especially on vehicles like the 06/07 ML, are controlled using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). This allows the motor to adjust the flap position incrementally rather than simply switching between fully open and fully closed. PWM Signal: The control unit sends a variable voltage signal in the form of pulses. The duration of these pulses (duty cycle) determines the motor's position or speed. This precise control ensures optimal airflow for varying engine loads. Position Feedback: A built-in position sensor (typically a potentiometer or Hall effect sensor) provides real-time feedback to the ECU about the flap’s position. If you confirm the motor is PWM-controlled, you can measure the duty cycle using a multimeter with a duty cycle function or an oscilloscope. The swirl flap motor can typically be tested in the following ways: 1. Diagnostic Tool (Preferred Method) Use your iCarsoft or a similar diagnostic tool to command the swirl flap motor to move through its full range of motion. You should see corresponding feedback from the position sensor. Check for stored or live errors related to the actuator. The diagnostic tool may also display live data such as duty cycle or actuator position percentage. 2. Physical Movement Check Remove the motor and manually inspect the linkage and swirl flap mechanism for free movement. If the mechanism binds or sticks, this could overload the motor and cause failure. 3. Electrical Testing Resistance Test: Use a multimeter to measure the motor windings' resistance. Compare the values to the manufacturer’s specifications. Power Supply Test: Apply a low voltage (e.g., 12V) directly to the motor to see if it moves. Use caution to avoid damage or overloading. 4. Oscilloscope Test (Advanced) If you have access to an oscilloscope, connect it to the motor’s signal wires to observe its operation in real-time. This will reveal the signal type (PWM vs. on/off) and ensure it matches the expected input. Most likely it is PWM controlled. Hope this helps.

@@TheKeenMechanic Thank you very much for very good and detailed answers 👍 I have a couple of following up questions, but first we have some Christmas celebrations to do 🎄🎆🍻 But I left out one detail. When I start to drive, the engine seems to work ok. But after a short time it goes into limp mode. If I stop and start the engine, it starts to run normally again. But after a minute or two, it goes back into limpmode. This happens every time.

@@dimitrisivanov9285 Thanks for your input buddy, many thanks

@@trevankr Yes, very smooth and quiet now

@@TheKeenMechanic great work buddy

Thank you. I am currently editing the full engine rebuild on this van. Hopefully people will enjoy it and learn everything about this engine from my step by step tutorial🤝🏻

Runs very rough sounds like a diesel out of nowhere

@@conal9628 You have probably forgot to plug in something, check everything again. If no luck get someone to help you

@@claudiuilie90 Hi Did they charge you £15 for the bolts and copper washers all together?

@@DuaneDonaldson Much appreciated, I try my best to produce easy to watch and understand tutorials. Thank you so much for watching and for the positive feedback, it means a lot coming from you😊🤝🏻

@@jimi4405 Hi yes, the EGR valve is liquid cooled. There are 2 x O-rings on the EGR pipes connecting it to the engine block. They might need replaced🤝🏻

@@DuaneDonaldson Hi Duane, yes, this is the same video link I posted on the group for this tutorial. Thank you for checking it out and for the positive feedback. It means a lot. I try my best to explain things as simple as possible and easy to understand.

@@ggmtv1394 Nice tip to know. Much appreciated buddy🤝🏻

@@garybelano7047 Thank you so much for writing such a nice comment. I am very happy to hear you enjoyed the video

@@korba85 Try it if you have enough access, you have nothing to lose. If you can't then take it off but it makes sense to try it first on the vehicle🤝🏻

@@ddjc862 No, only copper seals

I copied the OEM boots, to be honest the replacement boots are great quality but look slightly different from the OEM ones. Thanks for your feedback anyway

@@BEARDEDKURDISH I did some work on the active grill. I made other videos on the removal of other components. I have a small garage and when I take the engine out and have a crane and other things in the way I risk scratching the front bumper so I decided to be safe that way. Hope this answers your question🤝🏻

@@Stefcio86 Not sure buddy, haven't done these yet

@TheKeenMechanic I just bought 3 weeks ago my first bmw f11 weather was storm so not checking all properly and small silly bulb . I put new H7 from top, but no results . Now, I need to check power get in or fuses for light 6 or 8 of them one by one .

@@TheKeenMechanic Hi again me I asked on forum about my angel light and answer is Control TMS Module , it's hard to change it my selft or better to take in garage.

@Stefcio86 I would suggest to go to a garage if you are not sure as it may need some additional coding or programming. Best of luck and hope you get it sorted

Hi It doesn't matter what way you install them to be honest. I did them with the tighter coils on the bottom as a friend of mine told me he had the same van and whatever way his mechanic installed the rear caliper hose it was not done the correct way and the hose got crimped in the spring. I did it this was as there is less of a chance that the spring can pinch the hose as most of the spring movement will be at the top. Hope this makes sense🤝🏻

@@RPDBY I used 60mm ERT rebuild kit. Bought the kit from Autodoc.co.uk

@@m.pietro9087 Most likely yes🤝🏻

@ thank you. 🖖🏻

@@BrokenC63 Thank you for writing back with your update. Are you able to write step by step after you establish communication with the new unit. I think it will be priceless information for anyone else trying to do the same

@@kimbangayan2340 Carefully check everything before you try to remove. You must be missing something

@@JanGregoric Thanks for watching and for your nice comment. Look after your car and it will serve you well

@@xristospanagiotopoulos7401 You are welcome🤝🏻

THANK YOU🤝🏻

Also, the torque converter drain is only on the earlier models, something like pre 2010.

@@JC-welliz Yes, my van runs at 80°c operating temperature so my operating temperature would be the 80° check on the dipstick. Thanks for your comments and for sharing your knowledge and experience

@@JC-welliz It is the 1st vehicle ai have worked on where you can drain the torque converter. I am normally a BMW fan but since I have started working on this Mercedes I see how well they were designed before the recession hit and before all manufacturers started cutting budgets to compete with cheap Asian car manufacturers

May be they are afternarket cams, not sure how to help buddy

@ lol turned the engine one more time and did the trick. I feel dumb. Thank you.

@@kimbangayan2340 Glad you got sorted. No shame in asking

@@sungilcho7821 Mid rise 3ton scissor lift. You can see it in most of my videos

@@agdercont8634 You can certainly try it. It didn't work for me, but I was lucky I could still communicate with the module and was able to clone it through variant coding. In my case the issue was faulty conductor plate inside the automatic transmission.

@Tonino-r6p Thank you for the very nice comments. I can't thank you enough for your support on the channel. If I ever visit Como area we will definitely have to meet up🤝🏻🤝🏻🤝🏻

@TheKeenMechanic i wait you!!

Do you think that is a good idea to make a washing to gearbox? I have seen that there are some specialized shop that offer this service. I have seen that for mine zf8hp70, the maker suggest only the Change of the fluid and filter. I am curious for your opinion ..

@Tonino-r6p The transmission flush uses a bit more oil than normal oil change as it feeds fresh oil whilst drains the dirty oil in a separate container. It flushes the torque converter and oil cooler. Some people say it is not the best thing to do (including ZF manufacturer) I personally think if you drop the sump and do it yourself it will be cheaper and you know it is done right. You will not be able to drain all fliud in one oil change but you can repeat the procedure again in a few thousand KM. I can recomment the Febi kits as they are just as good as the BMW OEM but much cheaper. This was you can do the service twice and still save money by having to pay someone else. 8HP-70 is one of the best gearboxes ever made. Look after it 😉🤝🏻

@@TheKeenMechanic thank you !! I have the same idea, if the manufacturer says that the correct way is just to replace the filter and the oil I think that we can trust. Good bye ! See you on the next video

@Tonino-r6p You are welcome🤝🏻

@@paridshllaku7244 manual

@@giuseppev5024 You are welcome

@nerdsandotherlegends652 try the Facebook coding/programming groups. Someone may be able to help you

@@KyleGladden-b7y No need for internet. Make sure your comport settings are correct. If you use the laptop for other things than solely for diagnostics it will mess up the settings and it will not connect. Can't help any more than that I am afraid

I have already checked the comport settings and even the Ediabas settings 😭 seems like my next option may need to be a complete reinstall of the software. The laptop doesn’t get used for anything else, so it’s weird that it’s not working now. Thank you for the info though

@@GaLaxY-1905 You are welcome

@@H0kieJoe Yes, they are aluminium, oven cleaner is corrosive on aluminium but as long as you keep it off the machined areas like the gasket surfaces it is fine on cast aluminium. I use it all the time but of course you have to apply common sense. It dissolves the carbon and oil build up extremely well

@@Anthony1Lusher Hi I have updated the technique in my last video on the Gearbox rebuild. I checked the correct level with a genuine dealership dipstick I bought from a closing down dealer in Germany. Thanks for watching