Yes, I love the leaf color on this one. Keeping it in full sun has allowed the reddish margin to persist. I got the pot on Bonsai Outlet.

Thank you! I'm flattered that my tree is an inspiration. I hadn't realized how much this tree had changed until I put this video together - it transformed slowly, but that makes it all the more gratifying. Good luck with your larch!

Thank you!

Thanks for the info. I guess I don't have the allergy.

Thank you!

Thank you, much appreciated! Not much growth yet, but it's still looking healthy several weeks later, so I think it will be fine. Yes, I plan to put it in a more shallow pot in a year or two.

I agree, it's a nice variety - I love the deep forest green of the foliage. I bought it at a regular nursery, but it was sold as a bonsai starter - basically a well developed cutting in a small pot without any bonsai training.

Thanks for the tips - both good ideas. Have you had better success through soaking and/or using sphagnum moss?

@@BonsaiNorthwest I do both, the soaking means they absord lots of water pre planting, the chopped sphagnum moss is not only moisture retentive but also anti bacterial,slows down root rot. I've been collecting and growing Bonsai for 25 years, I specialise in Satsuki Azalea's I just grow maples to grow on or give away as they root and grow so quickly. Good luck👍

@@edmundblackaddercoc8522 I didn't consider sphagnum's antiseptic properties - next time. Thanks!

Thanks! Good luck to you as well. Those are some nice cultivars.

Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, planting it in a bigger pot or the ground (where I had it previously) would greatly increase its growth rate. I put it in this pot because I envisioned a small tree in a small pot, like in the picture I shared in the video, with a shorter final height than shown here (the large oak leaves will never be to scale). To my understanding, oaks resent root disturbance, so I was afraid if I let it grow much more in the ground I would never be able to successfully transition it into a small pot. I didn't share it in this video, but I'm keeping this pot in a larger pot to allow the roots to escape, which I'm hoping will help the tree grow and maintain vigor. Another reason for my growing it in a small pot now is to intentionally stunt it's growth (to a degree), so that I get short internodes. It's also a bit of an experiment for me, to see how the naturally large leaves reduce. But yes, it's a tiny pot, so for the long term health of the tree, I might need to let it spend a growing season or two in a larger pot in coming growing seasons.

Thank you. I don't see them much over here either, in garden centers or landscapes.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you! Yes, I love the reds of the succulents in early spring.

Thank you!

Thanks! Ha, yep, my Mikawa Yatsubusa JM has been mistaken for a cannabis before. JM are definitely my favorite bonsai subject. But I agree, there are plenty of great species native to North America that make great bonsai. I'm really loving my Western Hemlock and Douglas Fir that I collected in the forest about an hour from my home right now.

Me too! I plan to give an update in a few months, whether successful or unsuccessful. I recently took some more cuttings from my Yuri Hime Japanese Maple as well - I'm really hoping even one roots as I really love the cultivar.

@@BonsaiNorthwest Ooh, looking forward to seeing both of those 😊

Thank you. Good point, maybe it was a bird. After I made this video I began to look for this tree's parent more earnestly I did find several oak trees of what look like the same species within 100 m of my yard - I had just not noticed them in all the years I've lived here.

I'm with you, Japanese maples my favorite. This is my first time trying JM cuttings, we'll see how it goes.

Thanks!

Thank you!

Thank you. It's always fun to take an overgrown maple and make it look like a bonsai again.

Thank you, I sincerely appreciate it. I could say the same to you about any number of your trees (I'm a fan of your channel).

Thank you! I agree, I think a pot with rounded corners would suit it best. I plan to put it in a nicer ceramic pot when I repot it in 2-3 years, likely oval, but I think rounded as you suggest would also work well.

@@BonsaiNorthwest yeah maybe a drum style pot with half inch feet... All the best to you

@@grahamharlow7471 Yeah, the more I consider it, the more I like the idea of a round/drum pot. Thank you for the suggestion; I don't know if I would have considered it otherwise.

Try and shorten the top branches to increase the conical shape or allow the bottom branches to grow longer than the top of the tree will help to balance the tree at the moment the tree is top heavy, beautiful though keep it up

@@percyacutt3110 Thanks for the suggestions!

Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it. And thank you for subscribing.

Your welcome brother

Thank you!

Thanks! Yes, they've all grown well this spring.

Yes, I like Shishigashira and might add one to my collection, thanks for the recommendation. In the spring I have them in full sun. Once temperatures get above 90 (usually not until July), I put them under 40% shade cloth, until Sept or Oct or so. My Mikawa Yatsubusa definitely needs shade when it gets hot (I've had leaf burn before), although I wonder about my generic Japanese maple - it might be fine in full sun even in hot weather.

Ha, wow, shuffling 300 pots would be tough indeed! 100 isn't a small number either. I don't mind the shuffle for a few weeks but admittedly I'm weary of it by the end of May.

Thanks for the introduction. I'll check out your channel. I'm in the Inland Northwest (Idaho panhandle), but only wanted my channel name to be two words so I dropped Inland. Thankfully Japanese maples still grow well here despite our more temperamental climate here (USDA Zone 6).

Thank you! Yeah, I instantly loved the Jacqueline Hillier when I found it. I would have loved to find a larger one like you have. I'm really liking the Seiju as well - it's really growing well despite being a dwarf. BTW, I realized it's not apparent from my channel name and description but I'm also located in Idaho, in the panhandle.

@@BonsaiNorthwest Oh no kidding? I saw the "Northwest" but wasn't sure where. If you ever want some Siberian elms, I have a million cuttings so I could send you some.

@@BonsaiBoise Thanks for the offer! I'll look around here first (I don't want to trouble you) but will let you know later if I can't find one. And same offer to you - I've been recently getting more into taking cuttings and should have some to spare - I'm about to try Japanese maple cuttings for the first time.

No, there wasn't much warning, the snap surprised me. I was overly optimistic about how much bending it could take. Pines are generally quite flexible and can handle big bends, however, it's smart (and perhaps necessary based on my experience with this tree) to wrap the tree where you will bend it with raffia or the like. I think it wouldn't have broken if I had done this. Conifers can also heal partial breaks (where only part of the tree breaks) well. However , this was a complete snap. No worries though, I prefer the tree's shorter height now, and it will also make for better trunk taper. As for wiring, you need to use wire that is big enough to hold the branch in place. To check this I push a straight section of wire against the branch I want to bend. If the wire bends, I need bigger wire. If the branch bends, the wire is thick enough to hold the branch.

Good information! Thanks for sharing!

Mikawa Yatsubusa is a great (and popular) Japanese maple cultivar for bonsai! I highly recommend it. All Japanese maples can withstand frost in winter. However, there is a difference between 'top hardiness' (the temperature that the above ground branches and the trunk can withstand) and 'root hardiness' (the temperature that roots can withstand). Top hardiness of Japanese maples is generally -20 deg. F (-29 deg C). Root hardiness of Japanese maples (and other tree species) is much less, 15 deg. F (-10 deg. C). Pot size makes a difference - smaller pots will freeze through faster and thus need to be monitored more closely when winter temperatures drop below freezing. I got those temperatures for top and root hardiness from Michael Hagedorn's book 'Bonsai Heresy'.

@@BonsaiNorthwest Thanks for the info!

Thank you! I do plan to do a cutting propagation video in the future, as I would like to take some Japanese Maple and ficus cuttings this year. It sounds like you are doing many things right. Some things you might also try are 1) keeping the air around cuttings humid with a plastic bag (but keep in shade so you don't fry them), 2) experimenting with soft, semi-hard, and hard cuttings for each species, 3) keeping at different temperatures. Sometimes they take a long time - I found that to be especially true for some thuja cuttings - I think it took after least half a year before I got a semi-hardwood thuja cutting to root successfully.

Thank you! Cheers!