Any chance you have the STL for this? Would love one for a cassette too. Your modeling skills exceed mine!

i build some recumbent bikes with flat headtube angle - tested different amounts of rake - and had very similar experiences like you told 👍

This was one of my issues with that Smarter Everyday video about backward steering. I'm not saying it wouldn't be difficult, but he inadvertently changed the angle to be very twitchy by putting the handlebars in front of the normal position by a few inches. Had he done the opposite, he might've had an easier time.

Negative rake... You're in supermarket trolley territory there... Wheel death wobble 😂

So interesting! I didn't think negative trail would be rideable at all. I guess another thing to try might be constant trail but achieved with different combinations of head angle and rake. The difference is supposed to be wheel flop, which it's sometimes desirable to reduce on a bike intended to carry front loads.

Did you dezinc the nut before welding? Or maybe the inside of the tube had a coating that was impregnated in the metal.

Thank you for that demonstration. Are you you going to do any more geometry demo? specs for Eddy Merckx bike circa 1970, 72 degree head tube, 40mm rake, trail 68.4mm bottom bracket drop 75mm.

Very informative indeed! Squirrel bonus at around 3:06

Great project and video, Steve! I've read so much about the theory, It's great to see the variables compared in real time practice. I'm gonna revisit a project that turned out "floppy" and see what I can do to remedy the geometry.

This is a practical demo of all that theory. Good work.

Mike Burrows kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4vVp3-ajZx1aac

Beautiful and really interesting experiment! Thanks for sharing!

My most comfortable ride is a touring frame I built up. I think the real difference comes from longer chain stays as much as the fork and head tube angle.

Thank you very much for your efforts! It was very useful for me to know this before building my city bike)

Great vid!

I'm more of a practical learning guy. This finally helped me totally understand these geo changes. Great work and thank you for that!

Where is the test for 0 trail?

Ah darn, now i want to get a nonsense geo testing bike in my own garage! 😂 Cool to see the comparison, this is awesome work.

hey Steve, awesome video. One question - when you change the headtube angle you're not adjusting the handlebar? Moving the bar to the extremes will make you sit further forward or back on the bike altering centre of gravity which will also affect handling?

A friend builds custom cruisers based on MTB geometry because it makes them easy to control.

Lets go! 🇺🇸

Glad to see that you are back Steve!

I like the chuck cap, but I just start by tightening the chuck down just enough to let the spoke through, and it keeps it from slipping out. For repetitive length cutting I put two felt pen marks on the crank shaft, one to set where the spoke hits the cutter, the other with how far to crank it down

Glad you are back on youtube! Cheers from Cleveland.

Have you considered making the cross tubes telescopic also as well too?

Glad you are back to making videos. 😊

Glad to see you are back! You totally inspired me to get working on my own bike project :) Love the way you did the videos and the approach to building. More please :)

I think you would enjoy, if you haven't already done so, Tony Foale's - "Motorcycle handling and chassis design". That book along with Phil Irving's book - "Motorcycle Engineering" should be a must read for anyone interested in steering geometry of two wheeled transport, motorised or not.

Hey bud, get you a set of "Jobber Length" drill bits, those super long ones youre using now tend to deflect on holes and in situations like that cross-nut you made, the short ones are rigid and drill straighter holes

Great work! Thank you for showing us the rabbit again as well!

I'm thinking full face helmet before test ride, BTW Love what you're doing!

Love that crown to axle height control. So smart, but simple.

Great work! 😊👍

To keep the handlebar height, I'd suggest making a clamp-on stem, and a set of spacers. This A-head system should hold the tension inside the headset better, as I have my doubts about the seattube clamps.

It's really coming together. I was struggling to visualize the finished product, then you assembled it and Voila, it looks awesome 👍

Hey Steve, do you find yourself almost exclusively using pulse TIG and laywire now? I've been experimenting with a variety of things trying to get more consistent and that is one of them. Good stuff as always dude. :)

Perfect execution! And next, adjustable chainstay length ? 😊

Very interesting and looking forward to learn how the trail adjustments affect riding! Super craftsmanship!

Nice job!

So glad you’re back bro!

Amazing work !!

Sorry to hear about the move. I am very inspired by your videos. How did you learn all of this?

No more mini-mill! You were the one that inspired me to buy one.

It’s been a long time since I watch one of your vids. Just want to tell you how much you inspired me to lean how to Wendy and make new stuff. Thank you very much. I bet there is a lot more gays lime me out there, inspired by you, who decided to get hans dirty. 👊😎

Always interesting how you make things. Some of the vintage racing dirt track motorcycle have adjustable triple tree just if you are interested. Thanks for the video.

Your channel has been one of my favorites since you started dude keep it up

#MBFH

You can make custom headbadges pretty easily with electrolosis speed rusting a pattern in. Ive always wanted to build my own frame. My dads done quite a few after we stopped making headbadges.

Your videos are great. Very glad your back posting. I like the artwork drawn on your bench, did you do it?!?

Moving is really stressful. Nice to see you back 🙂