Raw Build & Test Ride - Mini Town Bicycle 17

[@Pushyhog]

l always like this chsnnel, no loud music and to the point.

[@PithyBikes]

Thanks! I'm always trying to find a good balance. My very early videos are hard to watch because of the music, I've learned a lot and am still learning. :)

[@bopis123]

Been waiting for this for years! Congrats on the build!

[@PithyBikes]

Thank you!

[@robertruhl2270]

great to see you still making video's :)) we've missed you

[@VideoArtFan]

Shifter: SL-C2010-3 Thank you for your work.

[@Kremenetsky]

It's nice to see your work! Bike is beautiful 🚲

[@Mad-Duk_Machine_Werkes]

having learned how to ride a Motorcycle before I owned a bicycle, I always put the brakes set up like a MC- Front on right lever, rear on left- I'd kill myself riding a bike the standard way! LOL Looks great man!

[@greghawley7852]

Smiles: a) Seeing you face the fork--the right tool doing a job effortlessly and b) the bike selfie on the first ride. That said, I've suffered snap rings too many times in my life. Happy yours didn't end up flying off to some random corner of your garage/shop/lab. :-)

[@peterbaasch5598]

i can highly recommend wearing safety goggles, especially when removing those rings :)

[@beanbuilding7158]

I love fabrication, and am learning to tig weld.. but I must confess.. I'm here for ride test at the end haha 😁 awesome work!

[@adrianyeung8537]

Didn't know you had to ream the base of the steerer tube. Glad to see another video up in this series. I imagine it with a coffee cup holder on the handlebars, looks rad and a fun ride! nice job Pithy Bikes

[@PithyBikes]

Not all steerer will need facing. I think steel forks specifically need to be faced. Alu and carbon fiber are usually already prepped for a crown. But I'm not an expert in this area!

[@deniselee1900]

Love all the little learning pitstops!

[@gerhardthartlieb8308]

Nice job as always, and I really hope, you have already something on your mind for the next project.

[@PithyBikes]

Thanks! I have too many projects on my mind. Still got to do a finishing video for this one - bridges for fenders, cable guides, kickstand mount, front rack, lights. Cheers!

[@NotaRobot_gif]

Awesome bike! Wow, what an awesome bike path to live near!

[@antoinedoinell]

soo sweet! congrats on the finished build!

[@zerk773]

Awesome! I am inspired and about to start my own bike build.

[@PithyBikes]

Good luck and enjoy!

[@toft2k]

Yes Steve!! Thank you for awesome videos, always happy when i see a new video from you

[@pyroman__]

you have so many professional tools. so many money there. but you locate in US i think. when you live there its not for expensive for you i hope. and very nice production too of course. all thumbs up. i like all your videos.

[@eddiej9733]

Love that your still rocking a square taper

[@ethedona]

looks like a joy to ride!

[@user-cn4tw6ox5b]

Good to have you back making vids dude. Two tips for you for future, hopefully they’ll help. 1) don’t add grease to the square taper axle - it’s supposed to be a totally dry, metal on metal, interference fit with the crank. Adding grease allows the crank to press on further than it should, which can cause it to crack. 2) to fit the snap ring, place one end beside the split in the groove, then jam a screwdriver in 180° from that point and use it as a lever to pop it on. Work your way round from here. Should take 10 seconds.

[@PithyBikes]

Thank you!

[@roncy68]

WOW!!!! Respect!!!!!

[@krazed0451]

No, that's a snap ring, the thing you described is a circlip ;-) Nice work BTW!

[@davefoster7770]

Ha ha ha. Those snap rings are a nightmare. Last one I did took me nigh on an hour of swearing. Looks good.

[@paulpiegsa6747]

thanks for this video series! I learned a lot. The warning on the disc brakes is so you don't loose a finger cap, so be careful ;)

[@eugeneanisko833]

It’s very easy to put the snap ring on with a small screwdriver if you put one side of the axel in the vice (use 2 nuts to protect the thread and prevent the axel from spinning.)

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

looking good ,leave it like that RAW so everyone will see its handmade :)

[@PithyBikes]

I think I will!

[@chenxin8542]

This playlist is nice to watch. I am also trying to custom design a city bike for my wife, but struggle to find affordable services. I don't like the traditional triangle design, with a high top tube though. I think it is important for lady bike to have low / no top tube to allow easy front mounting.

[@PithyBikes]

It's tough especially in today's economic environment. The costs of nearly all materials and consumables has almost doubled. So if custom frame builders are charging more, It's probably justified. :) I recently paid triple to refill my argon tank from what it used to cost 6 years ago. I'm actually surprised any frame builders can make any profit anymore let alone stay open.

[@wimjoulz9654]

4:00 hold one side of the ring in the slot, wiggle a screw driver between the hub and ring to flip the other side in the slot. I find this the easiest method.

[@PithyBikes]

Thank you!

[@backyardmachinist]

Nice vid! Pro tip from a bike mechanic: don't grease the bb square taper spindle. The grease allows the crank to get on there too good! Sometimes a nightmare to get off especially if its on there a long time. Keep up the great content!

[@PithyBikes]

sounds good! I'll do that on the final assembly. Cheers!

[@Rebar77_real]

Lot of good ring tricks commented. But what you want is a set of "Piston Ring Pliers" they have opposed V's on the end specifically for flat end rings. There's also a style that "mandrels out" the shape if a known ring size was going to be a recurring visitor to the shop(or you see a set for 75% off). Cheers man, great build. Hope she doesn't want it hot pink or something, lol. Her choice though. :)

[@PithyBikes]

I just looked them up, great!! Thanks so much.

[@secretwpn]

If you notice as the cable stretches your shifting is off - do keep the manual handy, depending on the amount of gears you need your shifter to be in an exact gear when calibrating the cable tension via this little window on the rear mech.

[@PithyBikes]

will do!

[@GeneSimonalle]

Nice!

[@ridethroughlifertl]

Awesome video, like always. You mentioned riding fixed. Maybe you could do a little walkaround video of that bike?

[@midcenturymachine5307]

I see someone ask about using grease on an old school style square taper crank set. I'm old school, old and and well versed in vintage bikes. The answer, no matter what other's may think is NO. Never grease the the taper interface. EVER. It can cause the aluminum crank to over tighten on to the steel spindle and distort the aluminum destroying the fit. Other, more modern designs, do not rely on the tapered force to hold the crank on....typically spines with some sort of retaining cap or bolts or both to hold the crank arm place.

[@mikeshemonski7491]

Grease on the spindle allows you to predictably measure torque when tightening the crank bolt. If you don't overtighten you won't damage the crank. You can just as easily overtighten a dry spindle as you can a greased one. I've been a mechanic in a shop for many years and I've always greased them. Never had an issue! www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

[@rtz549]

Consider routing your cables inside the frame and tubes.

[@PithyBikes]

I did consider it but feel I'm still not experienced enough to take that on yet. Someday I'd like to try though. Thanks for watching!

[@dragostalks7501]

Rear brake should be routed on top tube and seat stay. All that work in the frame build... and I have watched with pleasure all your videos, and no internal cable routing!!! I am not a fan of 20'' othwr than folding bikes or kids bikes ir bmx, but that is your taste. I am also not satisfied with the shifter situatuon. I have 2 bikes like that, nexus 7 and nexus 3. I just use regular grips, without cutting the right one. The brake leaver will be slightly further but I have large hands and don't mind. That bike needs internal routing.

[@PithyBikes]

Thanks for you thoughts on routing! Someone else also mentioned internal routing but I feel I'm still not experienced enough to take that on yet. Someday I will try it. Cheers!

[@rtz549]

Look up Power Grips if you want to add toe straps to the pedals.

[@MartianGopnik]

Yo! I did not know that Shimano had an inexpensive, 3-speed Nexus hub. Cool. What was the bike like to ride? Easy to accelerate, I imagine?

[@PithyBikes]

Yes very easy acceleration. It's a pretty light bicycle but heaver than I thought it would be. Disc brakes add a lot of weight!

[@tedwingate]

I thought MicroSHIFT might have a nice thumb shifter for Shimano 3 speed hubs, but they don't. Sturmey Archer ones work though, and they're solid.

[@PithyBikes]

I picked one up a few weeks ago and will give it a go! :)

[@ddiva981]

I think this is a Mini-Velo

[@cyan933]

to prevent the cables from fraying instead of cap can you quickly weld the end?

[@PithyBikes]

never tried it but sounds like a fun thing to try.

[@JK-lj4lp]

A little bit of super glue works well

[@benjaminmerkt3288]

I didn't see if you mounted a torque support for the gear hub. Does the nexus 3-gear not need one?

[@mikeshemonski7491]

It only needs one for the coaster brake version. He has a disc brake.

[@alexdcpe]

Any plans to make a lugged frame?

[@PithyBikes]

I'm a TIG guy. I'm terrible with brazing.

[@severs1966]

I have been engaged in an apparently perpetual argument. Do you grease the faces of a square taper bottom bracket axle before you fit the crank arms onto it? I am in the habit of using just the slightest smear of copper grease. Others tell me that I am violating some sort of sacred law. Here we see a generous splodge of ordinary bike grease on the axle faces before the crank arms go on. Anyone else care to say something?

[@PithyBikes]

I'd love to hear more of what folks out there are doing on this topic. I've always used grease and have had no problem. However I'm not a heavy person so probably that has something to do with it not affecting me. However, I always like trying new things (new to me) so on the next round I'll apply arms to a dry spindle. There's a few other comments on this video and both of those also say keep it dry.

[@mikeshemonski7491]

@@PithyBikes Whether or not to grease a square taper spindle has been a debate among mechanics for decades. I follow Sheldon Brown's advice and always grease the spindle. I've installed hundreds (maybe over a thousand at this point?) square taper cranks and I've never had an issue.

[@mkot8524]

I will use a tool called "my hands" ! *hard try Ok may be not... me: lol !

[@jojo_is_a_go5893]

Edit: After further information some companies recommend greasing the spindle. Do so if you have a torque wrench. Don’t grease the spindle!!! Makes it impossible to remove the crank arms in the future because the grease makes them slide further on the spindle than they would dry. I know it sounds counter intuitive but trust me. I’ve nearly ruined many many fancy cranks.

[@PithyBikes]

Thanks for the tip. I'll need to remove the BB to finish up the frame so I'll try dry crank arms on final installation.

[@jojo_is_a_go5893]

@@PithyBikes Little bit of degreaser on the spindle to remove the grease and let them dry. LOVE your channel. I must watch your 1 bike 1 year fixed gear build once a week. You singlehandedly inspired me to want to trade framebuilding.

[@mikeshemonski7491]

@@jojo_is_a_go5893 Grease will not make it harder to remove in the future. In fact, it allows a predictable measuring of torque. You cannot predictable measure torque with a dry assembly!

[@jojo_is_a_go5893]

@@mikeshemonski7491 I’m gonna have to respectfully disagree. In my experience spindles that are greased are easy to overtorque without even trying. When I was starting out on assembly and disassembly I would grease everything. Learned really quickly that when the spindle gets greased and even just slightly over torqued the moment that grease gets pushed out it’s more difficult to get the crank arms off. I ruined some really nice Sugino cranks after riding them for a year because I greased the spindle and rode for a year. End of year packing up and maintenance and I strip the threads on the crank arm with my park tool crank puller. I had to use a spider to get it off and even then it still took heat and a ton of PB blaster. It was a miracle we didn’t screw up the shell. Had I greased the spindle and maybe maintained the bicycle every couple of weeks then yea that grease isn’t going to completely dissipate that quickly. But realistically who does that?

[@mikeshemonski7491]

@@jojo_is_a_go5893 Impossible to overtorque the bolts as long as you use a torque wrench! Rene Herse did a good test of this. A dry assembly resulted in a unpredictable fit. www.renehersecycles.com/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/

[@tadi999]

Hi Pithy! You need to adjust the internally geared hub. In the second gear the thick yellow indicator line should be between the two thin lines. E.g. images.app.goo.gl/F5SN7gXq8AE767R5A

[@PithyBikes]

Thanks for this! I should read instructions more ;)

[@kartikaramadhani3185]

Geometry please

[@PithyBikes]

try this! kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4rGoHyJfZ6CaLM

[@MybeautifulandamazingPrincess]

With those little wheels Your gonna have to pedal twice as much as someone with 26+ wheels to cover the same distance