@@lheftw1376 it’s basically the same but with a few small differences. I did a video on it a couple of years ago. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGrce2N5btiaeJYsi=cD9JUT-guZaeOoMD

@ Thanks as always for the quick and informative reply!

Glad you enjoyed it. Happy fishing.

@@Neds-nf4u glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for coming to my presentation in NJ! Happy fishing

@@JamesWeisgerber-c5r glad you enjoyed it

@@JohnHornby768 I carry heavy enough nymphs that I don’t find that to be an issue. And unless there was a knot to prevent it from sliding, the issue is that the split shot would slide down until it runs into the nymph. And a split shot adjacent to the nymph would likely make it less effective just like when moss clings to a nymph.

@@kevinbutler4065 it’s mostly about the background and the lighting combined with a river where you can get close enough to your target without spooking fish. And it can be tough to follow the sighter while keeping the camera smooth. Tripods and gimbals tend to not work as well as you would think.

@@Scoopster I think it still comes back from time to time…💀

@@maryellenbilenki6038 I think that’s pretty self evident from the realtime footage. That’s why I included both.

@@rcvflyfisher I’m glad you enjoyed it. Of course the velocity factors in. The amount of weight and tippet you need will always be influenced by those characteristics of the water. I still fish 4 mm beads where necessary. I just many people just jump straight to extra weight before working on other aspects of presentation that will end up being more effective if that extra weight isn’t required. And I’ve posted my micro leader in most of my on the water videos for the last several years. It’s also in our film adaptive fly fishing. I just adjust the diameters based on fish size.

Thanks for the reminder, Devin! I revisited the video you gave us 3 yrs ago specifically summarizing your leaders.

This video from a few years ago will address your first question about getting to depth. Regarding fluorocarbon, there are several topics to address given your question. I do use fluorocarbon for my tippet but mainly because of its abrasion resistance. I have tested sink rates with nylon and fluorocarbon in my bathtub. They are nearly indistinguishable in my hand timing once a heavy nymph is added. The density of the tippet is such a small part of the density of the whole rig that the difference in density between fluoro and nylon really doesn't change the sink rate much once the weight of the fly is factored it. What makes a much larger difference is the diameter of the tippet. Each drop in tippet size has a tangible effect on increased sink rate. Lastly, when nymphing with micro leaders, the only factor that influences sink rate for the portion of the leader that is out of the water is the resulting sag of its mass as I covered in the video. The leader is also mainly along for the ride during the cast with the weighted nymph when going this thin. When casting these thin rigs, the stiffness difference between nylon and fluoro is not nearly as noticeable as it would be in thicker diameters.

Ed, I'm not sure I understand your question. But in short, if you have an overly heavy nymph, either you will hit bottom or you will have to manipulate the drift to keep it off the bottom. This results in a less convincing drift to the fish and less takes.

Thanks Devin-I see your point

If you watch any of my on the river videos, you'll see I'm definitely not lobbing a short line. I don't know of a DYI dye that will make a clear line a visible sighter. Some of the specialty colored nylon we sell is also less expensive than bulk fluoro so there's no savings there. And yes, my entire leader is one level section of sighter. I recently did a series of videos on why I fish one or two flies so I will refer you to those videos to answer that question. I do use tippet rings, but I make my own from small dry fly hooks to cut down on weight.

@@douglasruecker6128 thanks! We all go through some ebbs and flows in our fishing. Hopefully this video will help you on the water. Happy fishing!

Glad you enjoyed it.

As the angler, there is always going to be some influence on the fly simply because it is connected to tippet, and thereby connected upward to your rod. The interplay of drag on the tippet, the amount of tippet you have available, the weight of the fly, and the way you pace the drift will determine how quickly and how far your nymph sinks. My goal is to try and have the least influence I can on the fly to allow it to drift as naturally as possible. I do that by fishing as thin of tippet as I can, adjusting my tippet length for various depths, and varying my leader angles depending on the depth and speed of each location. If your tippet is short and you have a heavy fly, then eventually you will come tight simply because the nymph will hang vertically. But even with heavy flies, there will always be a bit of sag even in a micro leader if you are fishing a cast that is beyond your rod tip. To take another view of it, "tightness" is relative. What I was trying to get across is that a lot of anglers probably fish too much weight and move their flies too much to keep them off the bottom. By fishing lighter flies and making the adjustments I mention above, you can achieve a better drift that will probably have less tension in the leader than you might be used to.

​@tacticalflyfisher3817 Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and to write thoughtful responses to questions. Great explanation. That helps a lot. I haven't tried a micro leader yet as I'm still trying to get better at casting a standard euro leader but I will definitely move in that direction. The improved drifts and strike detection make it a no brainer.

Good takeaway :) Happy fishing!

Happy fishing!

Thanks Steve!

@@patsheridan it’s more that I’m trying to let the fly drift with less influence from me so that I can get as close to a true dead drift as possible. That often ends up resulting in less tension and some curvature in the leader as a byproduct. And once that curvature is there, sight becomes the better way to recognize a take.

@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Thanks, as always

@@brianholaway I like a few different materials depending on the conditions. I probably use Adams, Baetis, and Sempe materials the most in my own fishing. I use Cortland Tri-Color for filming though because it shows up on camera better.

@@tacticalflyfisher3817 OK Thanks. I especially enjoyed the "physics lesson". I am glad to hear that you plan to add some casting videos which provide guidance on casting microleaders. Do you plan to add this sort of information to the Master Class?

@ only if Gilbert and I can get together to film again. It’s a lot harder now that we don’t live in the same state anymore.

@@fredmargolin1909 I’m not an aerodynamics expert by any means but descending through air is dramatically different than descending through water. There is so much more drag associated with descending in water than air that terminal velocity would be reached at a much lower speed with a 2.3 mm bead than a 3 mm bead because you also have to factor in the surface area and drag of the tippet as well as the fly.

@@jefflefevre1298 glad it helped!

When I've fished for steelhead, I typically use 3x tippet and scale the visible portion of my leader a couple of sizes larger than the tippet.

I'm glad you're enjoying them!

@@rickallen3141 glad you enjoy them. Unfortunately it wouldn’t do a dang thing to kill a carp around here. They are distributed so densely and widely that impacting them through anything but some of the new sex chromosome techniques that are being pioneered is pretty hopeless.

@@rabbittroll4247 if that works for you that’s great.

Happy fishing!

The downshift can be pretty abrupt in certain water types. But if you were spotting that and thinking it was a strike you're definitely on a good track. A lot of folks new to this style have the opposite issue as I talked about in the video. Happy fishing!

@@OldDominionTroutBum thanks! It was nice meeting you in NJ.

@@tacticalflyfisher3817 Same here, Devin!

@@johngrove4915 thanks!

@@wjb442 thanks very much! I’m glad you enjoyed it.

@@martinkrone7967 there’s not really a way for me to answer that without seeing the water. And if regulations allowed it, I would likely fish two flies for that type of depth.

@@tacticalflyfisher3817 the regulations just allow one fly... So I have to figure it out, starting with 3mm Bead...

I'm glad your Helios makes you happy.

First, lets tackle the terminology here. I assume you are referring to nylon monofilament because fluorocarbon is also mono or a monofilament. Also, I do use fluorocarbon for my tippet. I just don't use it for the colored portion of my leader. There are a few of reasons. #1 There are simply far more colored options for making sighter material in nylon. I haven't seen many fluorocarbon lines that are good for this purpose and those I have seen often don't come in small enough sizes. #2 The higher density of fluorocarbon is not helpful for reducing sag when fishing thin micro leaders. And when I've tried fluoro or nylon in smaller sizes for leaders, I haven't seen a difference in resistance to wind. There are other strategies I use for dealing with wind which I've covered in a previous video. #3 I end up replacing the colored portion of my leader pretty often. It's easy to put a nick in it from stepping on it or getting it in a tree accidentally. Colored fluorocarbon is a lot more expensive in comparison, so nylon saves me money.

Thanks a lot for this explanation! I always thought when people said «mono» that they meant nylon. I will definetly give it a try. Keep ip the good eork with all your video’s and articles, the really help a lot

@@thierrylerinckx1340 thank you! Good luck on the water.

@@cameronross5970 glad you enjoyed it

@@blueridgeflyguy9551 I’ll be doing a casting video or two this spring. Hopefully it will help.

One more reason you get to sleep in your own tent in March :)

@@saurfarming3772 that’s very kind of you. Im glad you enjoyed it!