Great Tutorial. Do you have any advice on an issue I'm having where one of my speakers is no longer playing sound and stuck in 'red light' mode? I debugged enough to confirm it's not the wiring since the same cable works fine on my other speaker. Tried toggling between R/L/Line and nothing changes. I can't fully tell from other forums but it seems like it may be an amplifier issue, hence I'm debating opening this thing up.

Have one - as you said, so far ahead of it’s time. Awesome to see it disassembled.

will this loudspeaker play only the center channel or can it play stereo signals in stereo? Or does it need to be modded to play stereo?

Why this company won't repair their crappy speakers !!!

2200mah

Tell me battery mah please

My covers where so stretched over the years, removed them and I bought some new ones from B&O. But between removing the grill and delivery of the new grill, i found they were sounding a lot better without grill, so I never put the new ones on and left them in their original tube packing. I know they are looking a bit weird now, but they are sounding so much better, the high notes are clearly liberated. Good video.

I love how this guy manhandles this device and practically destroys it.

Do you know how many watts the speaker has?

Hi, liked your detailed video. We have a Beosound 3200, unfortunately the doors are sticking, is there are 'simple' way how can we rectify this? Regards

In 1988 you could buy a Sony CDP-750 for half the price of a B&O Beogram CDX 2 and the Sony was a lot easier to operate and sounded better than the B&O. I must admire B&O for packing average quality Philips gear inside a smoked glass and metal box, and then sell it for 3 times what it's really worth. Back in 1988 it was marketed towards babyboomers with too much money, and that's still the case today. Thanks for sharing the disassembly. I wonder how the player managed to gather so much dust inside, but since you're discarding everything it doesn't really matter anymore.

It was nice to see what this product is made of and the quality that went into it, but this guy went way too far taking it apart. He destroyed the speaker taking it apart. Why not just show it without its covers and leave it at that? I am surprised he didnt melt the whole thing down and show us what its original state was. How is this going to get people to buy one? Just show people the quality of the product and that will do the trick. This was horrible to watch.

If you don't have the remote, HOW do you turn it on!!!???

Love the design and its functionality, but the screen quality is questionable.

So happy that you're taking them apart so that I don't have to 😅

I have an old beolab 2500 and recently the left speaker stopped working. No LED and left speaker not working. I opened the speaker up and found alot of foam rot. Other speaker works and right channel is OK. I don't know which part to replace as I can't see anything burnt. Could you suggest which part I need to change please? Also do you have that replacement speaker foam? Thank you in advance!

How to order for small power supply board.

So you have a coupon code for mi pls

How can we reset the pinkode. We had in storrage for years and we forgot the 4 digits

Dear sir of Kose Trading, many respect how easy you disassemble the 8000. Looks so simple although it is a complex piece of equipment. It is helpful for me. I have 2 issues with my 8000. I hope you can advise me. When I dial the FM frequency dial knob the frequency is not changing? Sometimes it does but only for 1 minute than it stops. Second issue, of the 3 digits of the radio frequency the middle digit the bottom segment of the number 8 is dead. How can I fix this. Thank you in advance for your reply. Kind regards Siert from the Netherlands👍🏻👍🏻🤣🙏🙏🙏

May I know what kind of screwdriver I need?

The connector you call lights is for programming and service,

Good and thorough disassembly! I'm, having trouble with my Right BL4500 that displays the Text UPSIDE-DOWN...

I think this is <snif> a very good tutorial, <snif> but it might even be a little <snif> better when you make a new <snif> voice over, if you get my <snif> drift.

A good one when using a peerless driver like Vifa speakers...

I am having trouble reinstalling the wire drive for the pickup assembly. It seems like the wire is a bit short. I am routing it as per the service manual. Does anybody have some experience in reinstalling this wire?

My ouverture mk1’s glass doors sometimes stays open depending on doors opening speed. And sometimes it works perfectly. What can i do in this situation.

Класс,хорошее отношение к технике,культовая акустика

Great Job Kose! Looking forward to Your next video.😄

You can find the new damping material in our website. kosetrading.com/product/bang-olufsen-beolab-2500-damping-material-insulation/

Tried to charge it with a 5v normal usb charger. Did I ruin it?

Great video, didn't fully help for me though as the red light went back on after reassembling but a few minutes later it was out again. Any ideas?

Have you thought about assembly process? I sent mine to a service guy in Odense, he fixed it. By the way : I can see your nice beard in the mirror- dustcover 🐻

Thank you! This video gave me confidence to strip and refinish my rancid sticky cabinets

Hi I have my beosund1 it off every 3 minutes how I can do to fixed it

Hey, I have a MK2 that over time lowers the volume. I've read that this could be a overheating protection, however the speaker is not any warmer than normal. I've read the service manual for the 3rd gen, and that specifies a NTC module which I assume is resposible for measuring the temperature, and regulating the power output. Are this also present in the first generation?

Driver size is decent, better than other small drivers

I need help with the gearbox motor for the glass door and CD clamper operation in Bang & Olufsen Beosound Century 2000. The belt snapped and I can hear noises. The door won’t work and the cd player cover won’t open. Please help.

Es genial tu presentacion del video,me gusta mas haces incapie en el aparato describiendolo completamente.((Genial))!!!!

Hi there, is there anything different between version 3 and 2 of the socket unit? Were there ever any DAB+ modules made for these? Thanks!

Punktkilde is also a Danish manufacturer of small quality speakers

Здроч одноразовая!!!🤮

I have an engineering degree. Now let’s compare between this speaker and the homepod since the Ferrari version’s and the homepod’s prices are exactly the same. The homepod has very good techs but this one is just a nice and whatever sounds. Homepod sounds a lot better in so many ways. The engineering of this company failed miserably. They pour so much money on ~non-sense areas rather than improving the quality and the balance of the sounds. Failed ideologies. Inefficient logics.

😉 *PromoSM*

I have a Beosound 8 that no longer powers up with an iPhone dock. Do you have any experience fixing it ?

Hi dear sir, i need your help.i have beosound ouverture type 2636.And the front glasses of them are broken. 26:10 .

I have a pair of BL1 but they are first generation pre-production samples. They've never failed until one of them started having some issue with outputting noise even when not in use a few weeks ago. This video makes me want to refresh them with new capacitors, removing the bad foam or whatever makes sense. Even very expensive audiophile speakers of today lack the beauty and care for the detailed mechanical design and material quality of these speakers and I wonder if there is a path to make them even sound better. For example, I could drive those speaker drivers with some external amps and use a miniDSP box to do the cross-over filtering and optimization. But such project would only make sense if the speaker drivers themselves are of high enough quality. Any ideas?

zero bass, no passive membrane, cheap technology and all that for 199 euros? bang olufsen thanks for ripping off

Is this for sale?

Thanks you for this video! I would not have managed to repair the BeoSound3 touch pad successfully without seeing your video first. A few tips, after a successful fix: - be very gentle when opening the cover, slowly heat up with he heat gun, not much heat is needed. Keep heating while detaching. Start detaching from the backside, not the front, then you don't have the risk to damage the cable in the front. - while detaching, keep in mind that it is a sandwich construction, with the aluminum plate on top, the foil in the middle and the circuit on the bottom. - my approach was to keep as much glue as possible. I did not clean anything until I understood how the system was intended to work. And this helped at the end to reassemble. Let me share my understanding here: as mentioned in the video, every button is composed of the three graphite lines, two on the base plate and one perpendicular on the plastic film. There should be a (very tiny) airgap between the foil and the baseplate that will be reduced when a button is pushed. The problem I noticed was that the system was constantly confused and acted as if many buttons were pushed simultaneously, therefore not reacting properly. I noticed a strategy how the glue was spread over the bottom side and top side of the plastic film: on the bottom side, the glue is spread everywhere, except on the buttons, but the glue on the top side of the film has an additional small dot in the middle of every button, I guess it is intended to keep the airgap and glue the film to the top aluminum plate. Having that said, I only cleaned the residual glue from the bottom side of the plastic film where the buttons are located and the counterpart on the base plate in order to make sure the buttons can work (and is not stuck due to the glue). - After this stage, the touch control worked but was very very sensitive. I guess the small dot of glue on the top was old and not sufficient anymore for a good operation. I chose to try an enhancement, that turned out to work really well, it even feels that the touch control works better than initially. I added an additional layer of very thing plastic film (the thinnest polyethylene freezer bag I could find at home) between the base plate and the original plastic film with the graphite lines, to increase the distance when the buttons are not pushed. I cut holes into the new layer for every button (I used the antenna hole from the top cover as shape). The new layer is composed of two pieces, the outer ring and the disk in the middle, each of them with the respective holes for the buttons. Then I reassembled the entire touch control with the additional layer in the middle, so far I did not add any new glue, it was still very sticky. The control feels much more determined, it maybe needs a slightly stronger push on the button than before but that's not a disadvantage. It works like a charm and it made me very happy today :-) Good luck fixing your BeoSound3 :-)