I've seen a good few excellent made Lancaster's just like this one is 😍 But all neglect to sort out the unpainted grey plastic part behind the window, on the inside of the fuselage on a real early Lanc' is a shelf which runs below the small oval window, next to the Nav's map light, on that shelf is an electrical device which is called......'Air milage indicator unit', the back of this device can be seen through the window on a real Lanc', the unit is there on the kit part but it needs cutting off and the back blanked off, all painted in black, a small shelf needs to be made and attached to the inside of the fuselage, then the unit mounted to the shelf, the grey bit i'm taking about is seen at 12:18.

Is it old British white or primrose yellow?

Simply beautiful!! Very inspiring. I don't know what are they waiting to also do a B-17 with the same accuracy and surface skin irregularity details! Regarding the display, you're doing a great job...after all, we are very lucky; if compared to railway modelers, for example, they need very large rooms for a proper display. For us, a large model normally takes about 1 meter by 1 meter approximately. You did also a great job with the coffee table...it will be a beautiful piece of furniture. I did a 1/72 Monogram B-52...I had a nice video till a few time ago...anyway, I bought a plexiglass casing for it and now I am almost finishing a B-36, in 1/72 scale...it's approx. as big as your Lancaster. I will just buy another transparent casing to be put on top of the previous one. I said this to encourage fellow modelers not to be scared by dimension...the final result is stunning and you can use many solutions for storage.

MAMMA MIA!!! I'm keeping watching and what is coming out is stunning! the "Stressed-irregular" skin effect is very visible, the realism is really at a high level! I think the next frontier of model kits brands will be producing models with this "stressed-irregular" skin effect and correct riveting! I keep watching with great interest!

Great job Sir! IMPRESSIVE!!! Great expertise shown here! You make it seem an easy built! You are slowly pushing me to buy one of these monsters! I like a lot your method of using Mr Surfacer and then just smooth it down with Mr Thinner but wouldn't be perhaps easier to use water based putty and then simply water to smooth it down? Anyway, I am just impressed by your work...museum quality!! Greetings from Italy!

Thank you Geoff

My car also has factory optioned wire wheels

Washer bottle cage in black or blue ? Do you know when they switched color ?

I’m doing a 1965, built October 1964 Pull Handle right now . Back to the original OEW , but with black interior Yours is my benchmark , my bogey. Not doing a show restoration, rather an original one Car was resprayed in BRG and a sport steering wheel was fitted, other than those two things, the car is completely original Looking at a 2 to 3 year project Safety Fast !

i am restoring a 52 fhc The 5 bows for the headliner is gone, so i have to make new one. I wonder what is the dimensjon of the bows?

Nice job. Looks great!!!

Why are the props going in reverse ?

If I dig through your videos, do you have tutorial or a walk-through of how you built in the five minute sequence for the Lancaster on the wall? I am looking to do a similar build for 2025 and have the motors for the engines and lighting kits, but, not real sure how to do the sequencing yet

Do you know if any changes were made to the type of wood veneer used? I have a 1964 built 3000 which has burled walnut veneer. I had thought they discontinued this relatively quickly because of the expense. Any idea if this is true and when the change was made?

Cool! My first car was an Austin Healy 100-4! By 1960 I traded it in for a Healy 3000 in red, carried 4! Auto-crossed this car, very nimble with good horsepower. Thanks for a great presentation for a wonderful sports car. Went on to autocross Porsches then on to the Historic Car Races through out California, Oregon and Washington until 1984.....Laguna Seca was a fun track before it was changed. We owned racing Porsches speedsters, and one 1960 Porsche Carrera Abarth.

The English are total smicks sometimes; given the size of the engine cavity, the only thing that made sense was to simply install a Chevy 283 (or larger) small block. In the late 50's in Calif. tons of guys realized that the only move was to ash can the weak tea bag stock engine and to drop on a chevy with a radical cam and like six carbs, set the engine back as much as possible and blast off at the nearest strip or stop light!!!

Good Job Thank You

Thanks for the history lesson Geoff. They sure did a lot of changes throughout the production years. Cheers

Fantastic work Geoff! Looks gorgeous. Love the colour combination. Etype are still my favourite British sports car. Cheers

Thank you for this video

Prop rotation is backward, have you got the power supply wired up backwards? Merlins always rotate to the right

Do you know about Rojas Bazan he scratch build airplane models of aluminum. Fantastic models

Geoff, do you have the templates for the headliner tack strips? Do you make them? Doing a 53 FHC.

this is absolutely amazing, this is my area but in the 50s

Did you mention where you sourced the cover from? looks quality. Richard's channel brought me here...these guys do great work.

Beautiful!!!! Thanks, Geoff. I am trying to get my BJ8 finished yet....

Wonderful videos. Thanks so much for sharing. They will be so helpful as I restore my own FHC seats in the next couple months. May I ask what glue you use? I've been using Gorilla's spray adhesives. Thanks

Geoff, when you use the 3M Sound Deadening Pads below the jute carpet padding, do you glue the jute to the 3M pad? If you do glue the jute to the 3M pad, do you first remove the mylar from the 3M pad, or do you glue on top of the mylar? 3M only advises that if you paint the 3M pads, you should first remove the mylar.

So the whole video is you blabbering and looking at a model you already built. How useless.

Great. Which figures do you use for the Lancaster in 1:32? I have the kit too, but I didn‘t start yet.

Great modelling, could you tell me where I can get the lights etc so I can do this to my Lancaster please.

Fantastic! 👏❤️

Beautiful sir! Did you hide the motors of scale model magic inside the engines or are they further back inside the wings?

Excellent work, thanks!

Hey, Geoff, Jeff here. I love the detail you put in your projects. You’re a true car ace.

The Lancaster a beautiful aircraft, that and the vulcan classics

Lovely !

Looks great Geoff! A lot of small details that you had to work through. Client should be very happy. Looking forward to seeing a few pictures of everything installed. Cheers

Jeoff, research the caps on the valve stems - not sure exact proper, but plastic is not correct.

Bravo my friend. Over the top.

Just superb Geoff. I wish you could supply me with a full trim kit for my very early 1953 BN1, but I’m in the UK unfortunately.

And I thought it was great before! Nice improvements, Geoff. Lin

Thanks so much for a great video! Started my frame off three years ago and now finishing up the interior. Hard to remember how it all came off or where it all goes! Even though I bag and tagged everything its hard to remember back 3 years ago! Your video showed me so much as to how it all goes back in the car especially the cut off #8 screws! Very good detailed info! Thanks Geoff!!