Cool series, it's ironic because I have a Kubota tg1860g that I couldn't stand, every year it would throw its drive belt. I don't even want to get into it about that model. So instead of fixing the belt last year, I inherited an 83 John Deere 111. It had been kept in a garage for 20 years and I got it running with a new carb. I used it until this summer and the engine blew. So I decide to fix the Kubota, only it won't run and it it spraying gas when I try, so new fuel pump and carburetor and everything seemed fine, I got to the end of mowing and turned it off and it caught on fire. We said good riddens to bad rubbish and bought a new engine for the John Deere. I put a 15.5 hp in it, it took a little modification, but so far so good. The new engine didn't have a port on the crankcase for the line to the fuel pump so I added one to the oil filler tube. I had to grind a little off the housing for the steering shaft because the back of the engine hit it. I guess the one I got was gravity fed instead of having a fuel pump. I also had to add a power line for the fuel shut-off solenoid. I'm charging the battery now to see if it will run. Had to put a new throttle cable on it as well.

Sound troubleshooting

After watching quite a few of your videos in the last few days I have much respect for your skills and knowledge. Also I'm tired of fighting with my Echo, Poulan, McCullogh, and Homelite saws. They are all pretty old now and I'm older than them. The easy start looks like it would be very good for me and I am wondering how it works and how dependable it is? Don't really want to spend the money these days, but I have a son that will benefit from the investment if it would be dependable and long lasting.

Lady, you are an excellent teacher!

Good for you, by admitting our mistakes, we can learn from them

I've owned a ms 180 for over 20 years I have been highly pleased with it I wouldn't use it for felling at all 😊

So the owner frigged with it and was not honest about it...................

Thanks for showing how simple it is to do the crankcase test. I've never done that and I need to do it on a couple of my old saw and trimmer engines. Really like how the Stihl engines are designed. Getting to the fuel line and etc. on some of my engines of different brands are really not designed very well.

Once again very informative. My 036 has been a great saw..

Very informative. I dont have much confidence in that type of tank vent.

I have a older stihl 025. It never ran properly right out of the box. It would work for a while then dy. Finally, after many cleanings and adjustments, I replaced the carb with Chinese model and it seemed to do the trick.

I never recommend the MS 250 to a older person that isn't in good physical shape. These 250,s are harder to pull then most of the homeowners saws. I will recommend the 251C instead with easy start option.

Good video- Thank you for your efforts. My MS250 I think is a lemon, but it has been worked on so much, by me, that I'm thinking of taking it to a shop and letting them put a new carburetor in. I am tired to death of needing this tool and it will never run, even after taking it to the shop mutable times, where I bought it. I'm going to ask off the top for a carburetor replacement.

I got a husky thats like that. You gotta pull it slightly passed tdc, then pull it. Most people cant crank it.

And my family said I can't ever find a perfect woman

Thanks for this video. I’m working on the same saw at the moment, saw has a bog and feels hot to me. Is there a part 2 to this series?

I installed jet o rings today that I bought on Ebay. they fit and are working perfectly.

There is always saw dust, but that amount of fine dust looks like they were cutting with dull chains. Looking at the work waiting makes me glad I am retired. When the freight or hot shot trucks pulled in and I was looking out the shop window I knew I was in for some long days and even weekends. The OT was good to get, but the human body can only take so much.

IF you don't mind me asking,why don't you use any power(read battery)tools?

Stihls in my life never start e asy if at all thats why there are no stihles un my life.

When you get a compression tester for small engines, what adapters needs to come with it? I have some vintage equipment made in SAE measurements and newer gear made in metric. Perhaps an ignorant question but do I need adapters in metric and SAE? I see that some tools come with several adapters while others only have one or two.

I fully agree to find the actual issue before adjusting the carb., however I see no reason to not at least check the settings, in case the owner tried to adjust for the issues. If you know the adj. were not changed from when working, then I would leave them alone till finding the dirt(I imagine); still watching.

Hello from Australia remote rural off grid , I look after my chainsaws could I go into this depth well 2 be honest its a NO. Amazing strip down and rebuild.

You do a great job explaining your work, but how do you test check valves

Thank you for posting. Loved it.

Great attention to detail. How about an 075AV oiler rebuild?

i am hard of hearing if you can put your mike up closer it would have helped just a sugestion

thanks for the vid...been looking for an all in one saw stihl, husq, echo....cant decide but looking at maintenance is helpful....interesting finally at the end it was the customer or prior user that added cost/labor

You're 100% correct. I think customers are embarrassed they tried to fix the saw and it still doesn't run right-must be something else-off to the shop it goes. It takes me longer to fix and costs them more in the end and wastes my time. I always ask, most times they never admit to working on it. Great thorough job!

Runs pretty good, that would make a good Bush hogg 😊

NICE VIDEO ❤

I have the ms251-CB-E and the spring loaded easy2start system is the easiest smoothest starting system. That feature is worth every penny.

Is that a new modification plugging the decompression port and not using the decompression valve?

I own a 170 and I recently purchased the 162. After I got it home and started looking closer at I realized that Stihl had really cut corners on the 162. No nose sprocket and only one , not two, retention bolts on the chain bar which is the main fulcrum point on any chain saw. I then started to check the reviews of actual owners of these 162’s. This saw is tuned to reduce emissions which always results in lower performance. This was verified by virtually EVERY cutting time comparison between the 162 vs the 170. The 170 beat the 162 in every test. The reviews were so bad that I returned the 162 without ever starting it. When I returned it I felt a little guilty and apologized but the dealer told not to worry because he had a number of his customers return their 162’s for the same reasons.

I know this video is 2 months old but it's just come up on my screen. About the customer not telling you the carburettor had been tampered with. This happens all the time it seems like they think they'll get an easier time if they don't tell you something important. They just don't see the time you have to waste to get there in the end. Good luck for the future.

What's a winter shutter? Extra choke?

"Good luck MS170!" 😂

Thank you. Would be interested in seeing a carb tuning video.

Picked up an 036 for $60 clutch was blown up took everything out from the clutch out. Put all new parts on it and it's a decent saw lower on compression and the cylinder and piston are polished smooth but it does run pretty good. Not grunty like my like-new 028 or a machine like my "old crap" $160 046 Arctic that I think I got for a steal as it rips like mad just needed a new bar and chain still has crosshatch it the cylinder just the heated grips don't work.

I bought one of these as "not running" also stamped Made in West Germany found out the carb was shot was just dumping fuel with the jets closes all the way and it would run fast one direction and die out the other. Got a carb from china (couldn't find an original anywhere) and new crank seals mine was shot on the flywheel side. Runs like a bad out of hell now just need a new recoil. It has a LOT of compression still has crosshatch which makes it a pain to pull and can carry it around by the pull cord.

I think from what I saw when you were cranking on the saw that the recoil rope was short.

Awsome video, I am a novice at best when working on saws, so this is great info for me. I love the details. I have a theory in your piston color. I currently have a 500i, a 291, and an m18. (M18 is awsome for limbing) previously had a 290 and a 440 magnum. I have a respectful ammount of time on a saw. I live and cut at 7,500' -11,200' my 500i was struggling to run, i bought a bark box and max flow intake to help with breathing but the issue got worse. I always ran moto mix fuel. I reached out to gordy with west coast saws to ask him why these add ons didnt help, he explained something i had never considered. He said that the octane in moto mix is too high for my elevation and this is why the saw was running poorly. Im thinking its stihl fuel in a stihl saw. So feeling like i just got fed a line, I mixed up a gallon of regular 87 with stihl oil and filmed it in a video, you can hear when the saw ran out of the motomix or the computer recalibrated and hit the new fuel. Wow, what a difference. I have never run motomix since threw 3 unopened gallons in the trash. Could be a similiar issue maybe not elevation but similiar with octane causing the cylinder issues. I had mine to stihl 4x and each time they said it runs fine. They dumped my fuel upon inspection and put shop fuel in it and the issue was gone, i get it home fill it up with motomix same problem repeated itself. Thought it might help ya if you didnt know it already or if in the future your chasing an unknown issue. Great content

You have an amazing channel. Have a problem with my 261 with captured bar nuts and if tighten them normally the chain will hardly turn on the bar and if they are barely tighten the chain will turn easily any suggestions.

I can tell one thing: Customers all over the world will not tell you the reason/ what they did beforehand. Not sure if it is pride or they think it will be cheaper to fix. If the latter, they are wrong, as is could possible pinpoint the reason why a machine do not work quicker and save them money overall. Thank you for the video, thumbs up and subscribed 👍

The guy is probably using low grade motorcycle oil .

Thank you for your videos, I really appreciate your level of detail and step by step processes.

Really surprised that you dont have more subscribers. You should do a collab with buckin billy ray lol

Unlike most 2 strokes, don’t pull on choke until it wants to run. First choke setting, don’t pull more than 3 times. Then advance choke setting, and pull until it starts. It floods super easy.

BIG EDUCATIONAL THANKS! HAVE OWNED ONE FOR YEARS AND OVERTIME THIS YANK HAPPENS WHEN COLD. NOT SO MUCH WHEN "HOT", BUT.... THE TRUTH TO- AS THE CAR MECHANIC- FRIEND JESTS! "OK, NOW-!----- WHAT HAVE YOU FIDDLED WITH?"

Stihl's dirty little secret. Stihl branded oil is formulated to run full throttle or the piston top, cylinder head and exhaust port and spark arrestor carbon up. Carbon build up will increase compression and pre-ignition causing heavy pull start force and kick backs. I suggest using a less carbonizing oil such as Castrol Activ 2T so you can save fuel by not running full throttle all the time.