No Brasil, acho que não. www.schaffpiano.com

@@FredSturm1 Obrigado.

French and English are the same. German is different - just barrel loops.

Jumping pins are a challenge, essentially impossible to tune with as much precision as pins with a reasonable torque. I use a jerky motion on the hammer in most cases, and it is a question of trying to find the amount of jerk that will just move the pin in the block. The higher the torque, the harder that is to do. Flexing the pin in the opposite direction at the same time is still helpful in judging how much extra force beyond just breaking free to apply - if pitch has changed 25¢ or more before the pin moves, that makes it that much harder to figure out what you are doing and control things. I haven't had success with impact hammers, myself, though I know others who have. I generally add length to my lever with high torque pins. The Fujan lever can add length (screw on additional segments) without adding flex to the lever. I carry a couple additional segments to use as needed.

Please read my.ptg.org/blogs/fred-sturm/2016/10/28/tuning-hammer-technique. This tuning demo was done by someone with 35 years experience in a university music department, with hundreds of concert tunings under his belt. Tunings will typically last through 15 recitals or more over a couple weeks without anything noticeably embarrassing showing up.

I'm not going to overdub narration, but here is the background, a long on line discussion of tuning technique that I compiled into a blog. my.ptg.org/blogs/fred-sturm/20...

Note the this is an every day, 70 minute tuning of a 50 year old Hamilton studio in a university practice room. It's intent is to show technique, real time, pitch change of 10¢ plus in one pass with a quick touch up. Efficient, and what I consider adequate in the circumstances.

It is a Fujan lever, www.fujanproducts.com

Old ones, up to 20 and maybe 40 years old. Beyond that, the fibers tend to have lost most of their resilience.

Thanks Fred, I repair electro-mechanical pianos - Wurlitzer EP models and Fender Rhodes models. Some will be beyond steaming (rock n rolled to the point they need re-bushing) but I will certainly try this technique on less worn key bushings, big time saver!

RIght, I should also have said you need to inspect the felt to see whether it is wear instead of just compression. If you do thorough lubrication, initially when installing the bushings (work teflon powder into the felt) or applying it to already installed felt with a folded pipecleaner (folded so you get the whole surface of the felt), wear will be minimal, and bushing will last many years. I guess I also need to say this depends on the pins being smooth.