Thank you

The non gyro version has an issue where it doesn't save the steering trim after every use so every time you turn it on, you have to re-center your steering. There is also a lot of play in the front wheels which can also contribute to car having trouble staying straight. But if its not those reasons then your servo might have trouble re-centering the steering after you let go which could be the servo is weak or you could possibly have some debris blocking the steering tie rod so it might not be a bad idea to open it up and clean out the dust/hair or anything that's in there and possibly add some lube or grease to help everything move freely.

I have 3 of them and none have done anything like that. Are you positive everything is plugged in correctly? make sure all wires are going to the right places, ground, power, signal, etc. Make sure the gyro isn't missing any of the tiny components on the board, inspect it and if any are broken off then try soldering back on or returning. Have you ever touched the board with a metal tool while it was powered on and maybe shorted out the board possibly? If none of those are the problem there is a small chance you had bad luck and got a faulty gyro from the factory which then you need to contact the seller about getting a refund or replacement. Sorry man I wish I could help you more but I don't know for sure so the best you can do is process of elimination to narrow down what could be causing the issue.

The motor side has zero room for anything, barely a millimeter of the screw sticking out on that side caused it to bind up. On the other side maybe a quarter of the spring or less could fit but then what's the point, you can only add a millimeter on that side before it binds up so that's why a screw with barely a millimeter sized head ended up fixing it for me.

I can't add the affiliate link in the comment section since AliExpress might penalize me so I added it to the description of this video. Just after the links to the cars you'll see it as ***Stock Replacement Steering Cup/Knuckle For Front or Back Wheels*** It's exactly where and who I ordered mine from

Are you annoyed because I'm saying differentials? Or that it doesn't have any? It's basically two solid axles but you know what I mean

@@AirToGroundRCFPV both. Problem is, you're talking about the car and its diffs. So, the viewer would be thinking, cool, its got diffs. Decent diffs in a car that small would be really good. Then you open it up, no diffs. But, you keep calling them diffs..... So, yeah, disappointment that is doesn't have them, and then it gets legit irritating that you keep calling them diffs. Oh, yes, I knew what you meant in the end, but then one wonders if you did given you called them the wrong thing all the way through the video.

@@alancx523 Look, all the the other cars I've reviewed so far have diffs and I bounce around between different models so mistakes happen especially since I record most of these videos late night. It's not like I'm trying to mislead you on purpose, do you ever misspeak and say one thing but mean another? It happens, I'm not perfect. I'm not gonna redo the video since it has a few thousand views already and you're the only one that's really upset about it. Let's be real it's pretty obvious cars at this scale aren't going to have diffs anyway, that's way too hard to make at that size for such cheap prices. So my bad, I'll make sure not to make that mistake again. I'll try to do better my friend, please forgive me.

I'm an R34 fan so you know my answer. I just have so many Mini-Z R34 bodies and no NSX so that's why I got the NSX otherwise the R34 would be my first pick lol

Yea it's basically a glorified paper clip. I'll be swapping out to my own custom shocks soon and some models are already coming with shocks installed now instead of the spring.

Yea it can probably fit but what voltage does it need? The car runs on 1s so 3 to 4.2 volts so if it needs 5 volts it won't work unless you use a step up regulator or something.

Thanks, no problem man.

Give me the keys to your car and maybe I will think about it

I'm pretty sure they are ph1.5. That's for the original models so far, they could change with newer versions. I think the DasMikro V5 gyro has PH2.0 and I force fit it into the ph1.5 connector on the main board.

I don't have a link but it's pretty easy, just peel off the rubber ones and push on, pull off the plastic tires. It's easier if you take the body off but can be done with it on.

@@AirToGroundRCFPV Thanks for the reply! Do you need any hardware to remove the rim from the axle?

No problem. The front wheels are held on by a tiny screw while the back wheels are either friction fit on the axle or glued, don't know for sure since I haven't tried to remove one yet.

@ Appreciate the replies! Thank you

I know I will soon, I have a few more videos to add to the series as well. I've just been a little lazy on making playlists lol

Thanks man I appreciate it

If the spring is wide enough then yea it should work fine.

That's not cool if they changed it. I've used it on all my old versions and it fits on all of them with a little bit of force so if you got an old version it should work. So if you got a new version that has new connectors that's pretty annoying if they changed that so it won't fit. You'll have to make you're own connectors then by cut and soldering or use adapters.

@@AirToGroundRCFPV ive tried it so hard to press it in that no the cables in the conector seems loose. Cause sometimes the gyro blinkes sometimes it dosnt. I will solder it tomorrow cause it annoyes me like hell. Also IF its connected and it blinks finaly, then i cant turn the steering. The steering is powered by the gyro, cause i cant move the wheels to left or right. But the led just blinks slowly and nothing happnes. What could be the issue? Any idea? The car was driving so nicely and I could make full powerslides with no problem. Then ive wanted to tighten the conector with a little bit of hot glue, so it isnt so loos, but after the hot glue the pins in the connector are loose now and the mentioned problems happen.

@@gaboaaa23 So what I did to help keep more contact with the connectors when they get loose is just slightly bend the two side pins of the three outward a little to help create more friction inside the connectors. It can be a little tricky to get the connector back on but once you do it usually will hold much better and the little pins will make good contact with the metal sleeves inside the connector. You can also take each sleeve out of the connector one at a time and pinch the sleeve closed some so it sits tighter on the pins when connected. Try getting a good connection first and see if that fixes the blinking light issue or not. If it doesn't we will trouble shoot some more. Sometimes when I'm holding the car in the air and turn it on the gyro won't set and keeps blinking until I set it down on the table for a few seconds and then it calibrates itself and then goes solid and I can move the steering again. You can also try resetting the end points to see if that helps get it working right again.

@@AirToGroundRCFPV hi, yea that makes sense with bending the connectors! Will do that today. Thanks! I cant reset the ending point, cause "IF" the gyro blinks and there is contact, i cant even steer. I turn the wheel on my radio controller but the servo or wheels didnt make any nooise or movement. But the gyro seems to be active, cause i cant push the wheel direction by hand. Its locked in the middle(streight direction) LED just slowely blinks. As if the gyro is out of connection somehow. Anyways, I will try to make a solid connection and then..... This little car is so much fun! I instantly could make perfect powerslides or drifts. My 1:18 LDRC Nsx was not halt the fun(even with the dasmikro installed) as this little car is. Im affraid though, that it want last long. Are there parts that can be swaped? The plastic gears for example? Or a other motor? Servo swap? Its SO MUCH fun this tiny car!

@@AirToGroundRCFPV ok, little update. The gyro works flawlessly now. Just the connection isnt stable. I dont know if i can solder the tiny wired to the even tinier contact pins.

I know I mention that at about 2:20 in the video. I don't know how good it is so I used my own lock tight but I would have much rather used a lock nut if I was able to but there is no room for one.

It's a Mini-Z McLaren P1 GTR body that I glued a wide body kit on, you won't be able to find the wide body kit anymore they are sold out. I made a video on my channel on how I made that body if you are interested. It's 1/28 scale and the chassis is a custom built WLToys K969 that I customized and 3d printed my own parts to allow the P1 GTR to fit on it. So basically this is a one of a kind build you can't find anywhere and I don't have a price for. But if you wanna get into drifting there are many platforms out there to get started on, the cheaper route to get started would be a basic WLToys k969 or LDRC 1/18 model they are around 40 to 60 bucks. The Mini-Z Ma-020 is good for beginners but expensive around 180 to 200. The problem with some of these beginner models though is that they are AWD and not the best for more serious drifting, you want a RWD set up for that. Just watch a lot of videos and do some research to find what's best for you.

@ i have a Budget of 350€/380$ What Would Yo recommend

True and that's usually easy to setup on high grade rc drift cars and diffs but this cheap rc car doesn't give you a lot of room for customizing it like that. The old plastic diff that comes with it is a solid piece so it's locked basically and this metal "upgrade" is limited in allowing you to adjust from unlocked to locked, the screw can come loose and fall out, it's not a good design because this is a cheap drift car not a top shelf one like you may be used to working with.

I agree. and I like the way the tension can be adjusted through the diff cup like 1/10 versions. I want to give one a try I suspect after a break in period it could come up awesome and I think a drill will speed that up

@@AirToGroundRCFPV Makes sense it would loosen up over time the screw isn't on a bearing. You might be able to find a small enough thrust bearing if there's space in the cup.

@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I wish, there is no space. The screw end was sticking out one side just 1mm and it was causing the dogbone to bind up. There's no room for anything with this design it sucks.

You're welcome, surprisingly it doesn't really seem to matter too much either way. The BMW drifts really well for the smaller wheels and since they are AWD the symmetry between the front and back tires having the same size works for the little cars. Now I don't have the version of the Porsche with the built in gyro so it's hard to compare exactly since the external DasMikro gyro I was running on it performs a little bit different so it's hard for me to say that the bigger tires are better like I originally thought they would be. If you were going to use them for racing I think the bigger wheels on the Porsche give it an advantage for grip and control on a race track over the smaller wheels but when it comes to drifting I don't think the bigger wheels really give that much of a performance boost over the smaller wheels in terms of drifting. So I guess it comes down to your preference on which body looks better to you in the end, I hope that helps.

​​​@@AirToGroundRCFPVThank you for your answer, it was really helpful. So you don't have the Porsche at now? Because I have another 2 question :) How long is the wheelbase? It is same in both car right? And is possible for you to measure the dimension of wheels (tires)? I mean diameter and width. It is important for my opened project of another 1/43 BMW with alloy body, which is unfortunately with racing soft rubber tires. On aliexpress is possible to order some spare parts for Jiabaile RC car, including tires or complet wheels.

@@dandobrovic5529 Yea I took the gyro off the Porsche and it's on the Skyline at the moment. I swap it around between them. All four cars have a 64mm wheelbase. The wheels on the Porsche have a 17mm diameter, the front wheels are 5.5mm wide and the rear are 7mm wide. The other cars have 14mm diameter wheels and are all about 5mm wide. I haven't seen spare wheels available yet on Ali but they will probably be available hopefully soon.

​@@AirToGroundRCFPV thank you very much for your answer, you are so kind. I don't know where are you from, but maybe it is important, because they offer on aliexpress for this Jiabaile little RC cars some spare parts. Which are possible to order to Europe. Like: car shells, car chassis, servo, mainboard, wheel hub, tires, etc. By the way, I just ordered a BMW. Thanks for helping me decide 😊

@@dandobrovic5529 No problem. I'm in the US and haven't really checked for spare parts in awhile but if they don't have any up yet it's probably only a matter of time soon if you are seeing them available.

No problem. Thanks for reminding me, I forgot to add the link to the Metal Diff and Gears in the description of the video. The gearbox on all the LDRC 1/18 versions is the same size so far, the AE86 just has a smaller chassis. The one in the video I installed in my 1803 NSX said it was for the AE86 as well, many are labelled like that but some other sellers that sell multiple parts say it fits all versions so you should be good with the 1899. I noticed the Diff sits a millimeter or two more to the motor side since it's not perfectly centered in the gearbox because it's a cheaply designed gearbox, found that out when I installed it and I will cover all of the that in the next video I will drop in a few days.

Thanks man, I made this video awhile back before I did my research on the 1899. If the electronics board is red, then it should be better than the old black boards and the gyro built into them is much better on the red board over the old black board like on the NSX. So most of the changes/upgrades on the 1899 R34s are a step up from the 1803 and under but the 1804 Miata should be about the same as the 1899 except it's a plastic body not metal. The only problem with the weight of the Skyline is it's so heavy it really doesn't give you a lot of room to add and shift weight around like I can on the plastic bodies to change the performance. I mean you can but it doesn't affect the car the same way if you did. It might not matter at all that's just my opinion since I like to test things in different ways. But overall The Miata and Skylines are definitely the best platforms to start out with especially if you are not planning on changing too much on it, my plan from the beginning was to tear the NSX version down and do custom upgrades myself so that's why it was the best one for me to get. Plus I have a bunch of R34s on my 1/28 Mini-Z but no NSX so I had to add one to my garage lol

Awsome makes alot of sense actually cuz im keen to do those mods your talking about now on the nsx to make it run as good (or better) then skyline. Appreciate the info and video's man these things have been good fun. My AE86 actually came with plastic shocks and shorter swing arms. Wasnt expecting that. I need to add weight tho to dial em in.

No problem man, the plastic gears will work if you don't drive it a lot but those who have beat theirs up know how long those gears last. Metal is the way to go for sure.

Thanks man, I preordered a RWD conversion kit for this car that also has max steering so it will completely transform the MA-020 into a whole new beast. I'll make a video of it all when I get it and install everything but it might not be for a month or so until I can.

These are much better than the Turbo Racing in overall performance but can't drive on a computer desk like the Turbo Racing can so it depends on where you wanna drive them I guess.

@@AirToGroundRCFPV thanks man I think I'll go for this C75 bit pricey too

hahaha

Thanks man

Thanks, I've been wanting to make this video for a long time now since I get a lot of questions about it so it's nice to finally show people exactly what I did so I don't have to explain it in the comments all the time haha

It's not a big enough difference for me to say the Porsche is better than the others. The other three drift really well with the smaller tires honestly. I feel that the Porsche may be better than the others when it comes to racing though so I guess it depends on what you use them for.

kzbin.infonHrMBq9IZCY kzbin.infov0-JMwl80Qk

Those dnanos look really nice, thats cool you got them when they were more popular. Getting one now is difficult without spending an arm and a leg. So these cars will have to do for now and I can do my best to modify them to be similar to the dnanos I guess and that will have to do. The dnanos are for racing not for drifting right? I mainly just do drifting now so I don't know how good the dnanos are for drifting. Thanks for watching man, also those tracks you have look awesome by the way.

@AirToGroundRCFPV thanks and your track looks awesome too. What is your favorite if you could choose one and which one handles the best of fastest around the track. Yes Dnanos are for racing only and they are the most precise R/C I have and that says a lot knowing I've been collecting sense the mid 70's

Thank you

I don't know for sure but somewhere between 16 to 20kmh I would guess.

I don't know for sure but somewhere between 16 to 20kmh I would guess.

That can't be true lol

They are very cheap RC Drift Cars for around 40 to 60 bucks if you are interested. I have some videos on it to explain in more detail like my unboxing video I did a few months back. Kinda boring though just a heads up lol kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2Olm4eBjZedhZY They drive ok out of the box but after a gyro upgrade they drift a lot better. I made a bunch of videos on all of that on my channel as well. I have links to where to buy the car in the description of the videos. Mainly from AliExpress which is a good Chinese website that you won't find a better price for them anywhere else.

Unfortunately no, I'm sorry it's not for sale. Just something I made on my spare time.

I saw those, definitely seems like an improvement over the old version style. Some people say they are a little too stiff though but I haven't tried them yet. I will be making my own suspension system for front and back anyway so it doesn't matter to me but it's good they have that optional upgrade now.

@@AirToGroundRCFPV They are indeed a little stiff, better than the original in my opinion. I took them apart and cleaned up the plastic material and it was a slight improvement.

@@wasaB. That's good to know and maybe switching to weaker springs of the same size could help as well like the springs from a wltoys k969/989 could work possibly.

Where can I buy It?

Between 20 to 40min depending on how hard you drive it and if you have a gyro or not installed.

Yes, 3500kv

@@AirToGroundRCFPV i have ysido brushless esc but they are cogging , i think the problem is in the esc. what best budget ecs brushless for this wl toys?

Thanks, me too. It's the best conversion kit I've seen for the stock MA-020 to finally have max steering and RWD. I think you can only preorder on RcMart and HRCArena at the moment and most of the description is in Chinese so it's hard to figure everything out but I'm gonna make it work when I get it lol

Thanks man, that's exactly how I feel. I love real cars but they can be really expensive to mod, time consuming and hard to find places to unleash their power with out getting into trouble lol So this hobby is great for tinkering and messing around with out worrying about all that for sure.

Most gyros will work as long as you have the connectors to connect to the main board. Some come with ones close enough to fit like the dasmikro and others you may need to get adapters or cut and solder your own. Now I don't know how good the TLY01 gyro is so I can't tell you if it's good for sure but usually you get what you pay for. What makes the dasmikro gyro stand out is it's really good for its price where it's almost as good as the gyros twice its price. Many people have tested the dasmikro and usually don't have any complaints so it really comes down to whether you wanna take a chance on something else a little cheaper or go with the dasmikro v5. I'm not gonna tell you how to spend your money so just do some research on each gyro and see what looks best for you.

Well I call it "low" because the stock suspension on the K969 is really tall and won't allow me to run a low profile body like a McLaren. This new design is low enough to let me run a Mini-Z McLaren body on the K969 chassis.