Hello Chr B thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Yup, circumstances have required me to put the channel on hold for a bit. It all depends on what you're trying to do. If you want to sharpen a knife or chisel then yes, you do not want the metal to heat up too much. Being that a blade is so thin it can heat up quickly and remove the temper. If it's steel, it can become brittle. If I need to remove a large chip or gouge in a knife or chisel blade I do two things. Grind and quench before it gets too hot and reduce the speed of the grinder. I use an inexpensive router speed control also found at HF. If I'm just grinding away a piece of steel to shape it and don't really care about the temper, I will grind away and either let the piece air cool or just dunk it to cool it down. Sometimes I will keep a bucket of water under the grinder or abrasive cut-off saw to catch the sparks. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment. Hope I answered your question. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Joel, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Unfortunately, life circumstances have required me to put the channel on hold for a bit. I DO have a few videos that I've shot and hopefully will be able to get them edited this fall. Besides, HF hasn't come out with any new tools that I need and/or feel compelled to review. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment. -Mat W/1T

And how much would u charge to put new tile in?

Hi there Angela. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Unfortunately, we've got a state between us and mileage would be very expensive. :) I dunno, maybe I could do a cameo? Thanks again for watching. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Cee Dub. Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment. My apologies for taking so long to respond. Yes! The reason tile manufacturers do not recommend using a 50% running bond (50% RB for our purposes), aka 50% offset aka brick pattern is because most large format tile has a slight bow in the middle. This is called the crown. When you use a 50% RB it has the potential to cause lippage. Lippage is where the plane of the neighboring tile is significantly different and forms a high spot. with a 50RB the edge of the tile (which is the lowest part of the tile) is placed right at the center of the crown (which is the highest part of the tile). This can cause an unacceptable difference in the plane. The bigger the tile, the bigger the crown. I have installed 1x2 in a 50RB. I use a spacing/leveling product called "Spin Doctor". This is one of the better products that I've used in controlling lippage. The consumables are relatively inexpensive and the caps seem to hold up really well. The product can be used with or without anti-friction collars. With the collars I have the ability to put a lot of torq on the caps to bring the neighboring tiles onto plane. I can get most 1x2 tile to flex into plane. In my mind, this puts a lot of stress on the tile. If the thinset adhesion and coverage is poor, this could potentially make the tiles susceptible to cracking if the tile were to be bumped by a hard/solid object. Especially on a floor. I most often install large format using a 1/3rd offset (33% RB). I still use the Spin Doctor system when installing this method too. Installing in this manor causes it's own unique difficulties when going from wall to wall. I'm currently in the middle of installing a single shower. I have been documenting as I go. Hopefully will be able to start uploading new videos in a month or two. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I really appreciate ya. Hope I answered your question albeit late. - Mat W/1T

Hi Christy. My apologies for taking so long to respond. Thank you for watching and the comment. Hope you are doing better/well. It's my intent to be entertaining as well as informative. If you get a chance you should watch more of my videos and comment if you wish. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Robbie. Thanks for watching and the comment. Yeah. The 60 second format for "shorts" makes it difficult to provide instruction. It's not too bad for generating traffic to the channel though. I have recently installed this texture into another home this year. I documented the process in greater detail with better explanation. I should be able to get the video up in the next few months. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment. -Mat W/1T

@@Mat-W-1TFandF We cool. 👍

Hi there Mr. Collins. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. You're right on all accounts! As for the window... Yes, this was a custom order by me. It was during that strange time when nothing was available and every custom window/door order was three months out. By the time I got the window and checked the fit, it was... Welp, gotta make it work. There was a window AC unit in the hole with a bunch of foam and caulk cobbled everything together. It very well could have been my original measurements. As I recall, the rough out was out of square too. As for the riving knife. yes I have had kickback. Not really with this Hitachi saw but my Rigid TS3650 that I use in the shop. That saw didn't come with riving knife (and I bought it used). I whacked a hole in my shop door when I was making a zero clearance throat plate for that saw ( I added a splitter on the zero clearance throat for that specific reason). Have had a couple pieces kick back and hit my hands. I learned about kickback over 30 years ago and have a deep respect for the table saw. My protocol is to stand out of the line of fire and always, always push on the fence side. maintain positive firm control of the piece until the very end when I use the push stick. Also, I make sure the blade is always clean and sharp. Haven't really had much kickback with thin medium density fiber board. . I'd have to check, but it seems like with the Hitachi, the riving knife comes off in one piece with the blade guard and anti-kickback blades. I think that's why I have abandoned using it. Maybe there's an after market riving knife? Anyway, very valid points! Thank you so much for taking the time to watch and comment. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Kathryn. Thanks for watching and taking time to make a comment. Replacing the whole shower floor is a tedious exercise. I would recommend being extra careful to not to damage the substrate under the tile. If it is a Schluter system (orange) the membrane is adhered to polystyrene foam. It is very sensitive to pressure and sharp edges. The way I tile my showers is from the floor up, so the walls are overlapping the floor tile. Pulling the edge tiles will be very difficult to not chip the wall tiles. Additionally, if by chance you tear or rip the substrate in the corners and it goes unnoticed the shower will fail again. For an entire floor, it would be my recommendation to pull the floor and first row of wall tiles around the entire parimeter. Good luck! I hop everything works out for you. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Harry. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I just installed this texture in another house a few months ago. The folks absolutely love it. I suppose it's not really for everyone. Thanks for taking the time to comment. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Aleem. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Yup. Under the covered porch I sure did use interior trim. MDF is often used in some "light weather" applications. Fortunately, this window receives no moisture and once painted and sealed will be fine for several years. I warrantee all my work. Installed this over two years now. Still holding up great. Thanks again for watching and the comment! -Mat W/1T

Hi Tez! I appreciate your comment. I am in the middle of a shower tile install right now and am making video of it. Hopefully I will have it up sometime this Fall. Thanks again for your comment and watching. -Mat W/1T

Hello Mrs. Farrell, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. My guess is possibly of a few things. First, there might not enough thinset under the tiles near the drain. It's important that a layer of thinset (near 100% coverage) stays under the tile for adhesion in order to "set" them. It should get pretty thick near the drain. When setting, it's like allowing the tiles to "float" on top of the thinset. With the Kerdi Drain, there should be about an inch of thinset below the tile. It gets somewhat messy when setting near the drain. The next thing (and somewhat common) make sure to back butter underneath the drain grate frame to ensure full support by the thinset. (I'm fairly certain this is what occurred with the repair I did in this video). This is a crucial step in the process, I make sure to completely fill under the lip so that it will squeeze out creating a bit of a mess. For this step I make sure to mix the thinset a bit on the dry side and allow the thinset to cure for a few hours before I start cleaning out my grout lines. (If you start to clean it out too early, it can add moisture to the thinset allowing things to settle). If the shower "tray" wasn't waterproofed properly to the "drain flange" and water is allowed under the collar this would allow movement which would create a failure point. Lastly, there might not be enough subfloor support underneath the shower tray near the drain. This would mostly effect the tiles a few inches away from the drain flange itself. That would then propagate inward and outward from the edge of the flange (about 6" away from the drain grate). "Softness" typically has to do with excess moisture. Grout is not waterproof. Neither is thinset. However, if set properly without voids (100% coverage under the tiles, under the drain grate frame) the moisture has little effect on the tile. Remember, it's the membrane beneath the tile that makes the shower waterproof. It's not the thinset/tile/grout itself. If you check out my channel there are a few videos of installing the membrane/Kerdi and the actual drain. Good luck! I'm sure you're going to figure everything out. If a monkey like me can do it, anyone can. If you have any questions let me know! :) Thanks again for watching! -Mat W/1T

Hey Yellowstone-cabinetman, thanks for watching and the complimentary comment! Us Northwesterners have to stick together. :) I'm guessing by your handle that we're likely even in the same state. This job was in Helena. Thanks again for watching and taking the time comment. -Mat W/1T

Hello Michelle. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. The "shorts" version is not a good format for a training video. I can only cover the basics. I have installed this texture in another house this summer and made a video of it. I'm just trying to find the time to edit it now. Hopefully this fall sometime. Hoping to make it about 5 mins. I go into depth with better close ups too. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. -Mat W/1T

Hello Aaron, thank you for the comment. Yes, this texture is quite labor intensive. I think I am able to do just about 200 sf in an hour. It really is a very nice texture though. It has a very organic feel to it. It kind of reminds me of natural stone when it's finished. Everything is random. My preferred way to install is very light and I try to make sure there are no strait lines, drags or tool marks. That's why it takes longer than a normal texture like a spray and knockdown. Knock down textures have a very uniform depth and fairly uniform pattern. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Thanatu76. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I appreciate your logic regarding the logo. In my former life (20 years ago) I was a Graphic Designer. I have always appreciated the First Interstate Bank Logo (Similarly it has two "F"s). When I designed this logo, I wanted something that was simple, eye catching and symmetrical. To be honest 1T Fit and Finish is secondary to 1T Enterprises which is the parent business and logo. :) Besides, you can still read the logo if I'm standing on my head. The business name is a bit of a play on words. My name is "Mat". Yes, it's Mat spelled with one T. For my entire life, I've introduced myself as; "Mat with one T". Technically, the channel name would be just "Fit and Finish". ;) Too late to change branding now. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment. -Mat W/1T

Hey there Mr. Hornby. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. I have just shot another video showing my process for this texture only slower and more in depth. I should have it edited in a week or two. Please check out my channel and/or subscribe and you will be notified when it's uploaded. Thanks, Mat W/1T

Hello. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I purchase a brand of venetian plaster called "Vella Plaster Systems" through Sherwin Williams. I believe it is crushed Marble. It use to be a little cheaper than paint. There are many different options on Amazon. The following is my amazon affiliates link. It has a product that is quite similar to the plaster I use. amzn.to/49t1KJ3 Good luck with your project. Thank your for watching. -Mat W/1T

Just wanted to add a reply to this reply... I am also a photographer. I've been freelancing since the days of film. My portrait and wedding days are pretty much behind me. It was nice in the film days when you retained the negatives and just ordered and marked up reprints. These days I go after the fast easy money shooting real estate and architecture. Best of luck again with your project! -Mat W/1T

Hi there Mr. Aulabaugh. Thanks for watching. Thanks for your question and I'm glad the video was thorough enough to make sense. The way I visualize the shower system is as a giant envelope. The drypack is simply part of the substrate. The Schluter System itself is what makes everything waterproof. Every crack that is directly exposed to water has to be covered with membrane (with a 2" overlap). There are other Scluter shower trays with off set drain options. This was the tray the company I subcontracted for sent me. I had to make it work. Thanks again for watching. Please feel free to contact me if you have any more questions. You can find my email on my channel homepage. Good luck! -Mat W/1T

Hi there Milosadventure. Thanks for taking the time to comment and attempting to watch the video. The music in my future videos has the music volume substantially lower. Those old videos were my first ones. I've gotten a lot of feedback very similar to yours. I appreciate the constructive assistance. Thanks again, -Mat W/1T

Hey there Jondozre, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I always plug the drain pipe one way or another. Not just for fear of clogging the drain, but also for sewer gas oder, losing tools and spacers! On this particular repair I might not have had my Oatey Plug but there was certainly something retrievable plugging that pipe. Last week I was taping and texturing a bathroom. My typical 3" Oatey didn't fit the toilet flange, so I used the bottom half of a large plastic soda cup and florescent orange tape so the toilet didn't get installed over it. Anyway... I have deep respect for plumbers and electricians. I can be as professional as you want me to do. :) Thanks again for watching! -Mat W/1T

Hello there Mr. Jeffrey. Thank you so much for your positive comment regarding the music. I have to say, if you read through the thread, I get hammered a BUNCH regarding my background music. My taste isn't really the same as everyone else. Just trying to add some entertainment value to the videos and if I can teach or help someone out, that's even better. My future videos and the last few I've made have had the same style of music but at a much lower volume. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment. -Mat W/1T

Hello Mr. Reisweber. Thank you for watching and your comment. I placed this window into a hole in the wall that was knocked out for an in-the-window AC unit to slide into. I don't believe there was much of a weather seal for the AC unit. The AC unit had been removed for a year or two prior to my repair and replaced with a loose piece of styrofoam and cardboard duct taped in. The original plan was to fill the hole and replace the siding. Unfortunately, I was unable to match the siding so the next most simple solution was to simply plug with a window. I did so with spray foam and caulking. In this instance Polyethylene foam and caulk are certainly a better water seal than cardboard. The opening is located under the roof of a porch. It receives little to no weather, moisture of any kind nor direct sunlight. There are thousands of solutions out there to accomplish what needed to be repaired here. The homeowner knows that I will replace any part of my work that she is dissatisfied with or fails. In fact she recently called me back to do another job for her. Thanks again for watching. Good luck with your projects. -Mat W/1T

Installer is unknown. I ended up replacing a ton of it. The highest part of the ceiling is 14' (I installed all of that wall by myself). Back in the day, this banjo was around $50 and you can't beat it for the price. One downside is the size. Being so small, it requires being refilled quite often. But, because of the size, it's awesome for this old guy with shoulder issues. I think I've run about a half mile of tape through it. Have run hot mud through it. It's fairly easy to keep clean. The corner attachment is pretty awesome. This is my amazon affiliate link for it: amzn.to/3uxqSjp Thanks for watching, and taking the time to comment. -Mat W/1T

Hi there Methodical2. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. Yes! SO MUCH prep. I have had people help me on the job site that cannot wrap their heads around prepping. I think of it as envisioning each tile layer from floor to ceiling. Thinking in advance toward several rows up and where the lines will fall. Sometime it's the better part of a day getting layout correct. I transfer the line to the front of the tile and cut it face up because my tile cutter seems to cut better that way. I suppose it doesn't matter considering that I clean up the edges with the grinder and polisher anyway. Lots and lots of dry fitting! And I ALWAYs dry fit every piece in a niche box. Spacers, spacers, spacers, wedges and tape. Thank you for taking the time to write a positive comment. Thank you for watching. -Mat W/1T

@@Mat-W-1TFandFSounds like me...anal with getting layout correct. Measure 4x and then cut, haha! Forgot, those wedges are great friends and should be in all tilers box.

Howdy Mr. Krooner. Thanks for watching and taking the time to write a comment. I absolutely agree with you that thinset is NOT waterproof. This fact is lost on a lot of people and probably a large reason why some showers fail. Because of that, the Schluter system might seem somewhat counter intuitive. I'm no expert, but this is how I understand it; Schluter membrane is a polyethylene waterproof membrane sandwiched between two layers of polyester anchoring fleece. It is hydrophobic and water visibly beads up on it. When you apply the proper trowel thickness of thinset, between two layers of membrane, the fleece absorbs the thinset and creates a mechanical bond with the fleece of the adjoining membrane (like hook and loop fasteners... Velcro). The mechanical bond or tooth doesn't allow water to penetrate (*that much). The recommended overlap is two inches. The overlap and proper thickness of thinset are key (the trowel used for Kerdi is 1/8"x1/8" square notch which leaves 1/16" layer of thinset). I've played around with Schluter stuff quite a bit. Have had to demo a couple showers that were improperly installed. I've seen a couple seams that had a bit of water in them, but not more than about 1/8". That could have been from improper installation. While I've been installing, I've had some corners of the Kerdi-band covering screws on Kerdi-Board come up, but I think that's because I wiped the joint too dry or I bumped them before they set. The corners weren't allowed to mechanically bond to the base layer. Getting them wet again, cleaning the lifted corners then adding a bit more thinset will set the bond. Once bonded and completely dry, the tensile and shear strength is quite substantial with really good adhesion. At this point, there's hundreds of thousands of Schluter showers installed, if not millions. Schluter carries a lifetime warrantee on the products when installed as per manufacturer specifications (that covers ALL materials and labor). Some folks, a lot smarter than I, created this product. If it truly was inferior and/or not waterproof they absolutely wouldn't be in business. I have to say, it's super easy to work with. It makes setting tile a lot nicer than setting on some weird uneven Drypack, Durock and RedGard nonsense. Incidentally, to use the proper MIL thickness of RedGard on Durock takes substantially longer and costs as much if not more than Schluter... And what a toxic mess! I can totally see where you're coming from though. I was a skeptic too. :) Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment! I'm currently installing a small shower and will be uploading a new video soon. Please check out and comment on my other videos if you get a chance. -Mat W/1T

Hi MrGuvernment, that's a great question. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I understand your thought process, similar to "house wrap". The main reason I chose to install vertically was because I was hanging the membrane by myself. Installing it this way is much easier than having the roll draped over my head trying to imbed it into the mud. Using this product, I've found that thinset can build up in the corners pretty easy. I am able to take a little more time removing the air and pushing the thinset around to make the corners nice and tight. As long as the two inch overlap is maintained Schluter will honor the warrantee. The waterproofing comes from the bond between the fleece surfaces of the overlapped membrane. The seams on this particular install were in the field on the window wall, so there was no further waterproofing in the corners needed. Was curious so just looked at the Schluter "Installation Handbook" to see what it had to say. There's no mention of whether or not to install horizontal or vertical. However, one of the illustrations shows the installer applying it vertically. I've seen several installers on YT putting this product in horizontally. Looks like they turned out fine. I believe it's just a matter of preference. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching! -Mat W/1T

@@Mat-W-1TFandF Appreciate the response. And good considerations I hadn't thought of around the mud potentially building up in the corners.... Good to know. I will be doing our shower in the coming weeks, so now I got something to contemplate!

Hi there JS. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Without knowing a little more about the situation it's hard to assess. Do you mean if the curb is installed and already tiled? if so, then no. If the curb is installed (wood, kerdi, drypack) and not tiled, then yes the shower tray can be installed after. The key is that it will need to be waterproofed with kerdi band or membrane. The membrane and/or Band is what ties the complete waterproofing system together. I hope that answers your question. Thanks again. -Mat W/1T

Hi Mr. parra. Thanks for watching and the comment. I do have a couple windows that need replaced and should be able to accommodate with a video. I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to it, but hopefully this spring/summer sometime. Thanks again for watching! -Mat W/1T

Probably his job security. Be back in 3 months

Hello Mr Meireis (hope that's your correct pronoun). Thanks for taking the time to comment. As I mentioned to Mr. Anderson, I did use a little Fiba-Fuse to cover the crack. I mention it in the video description. Just didn't include it in the "short". Gosh, I sure hope I don't have to go back to work on this job again in three months. I didn't even charge OR get paid for this first patch and I did it a year ago. Besides, it's over a thousand miles away from where I live. ***One year update, it's still holding great*** :) Thanks for watching! -Mat W/1T

Hey there Mr Anderson. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. I did mention in the video description that I used a little Fiba-Fuse to cover most of the crack. After I edited and posted the video I noticed that I didn't include that snip in the video. It worked out considering that I've gotten a TON of comments regarding this. The truth is, there's only so much you can show in a 60 second short. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mat W/1T

Hi there Sky Dome, thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. I appreciate your input, and I don't disagree with you. In many cases, that's pretty close to exactly what I'd do. I believe this crack was formed from an earthquake. There was no need for any screws. All the surrounding sheetrock was stable. I didn't mention it in the video itself, but I did put a small piece of Fiba-fuse over the crack to help a bit with stability. Realistically, a 60 second "short" doesn't go into much detail regarding the nuances of sheetrock repair. I don't bother with primer and Kilz is expensive. If I have any rock that's crumbly/unstable or any exposed paper that I can't cut out (including wall paper), I mix up Tight Bond II glue and water and paint it on. If I have to prime a surface (sometimes I'll prime a section if I'm matching an orange peel), I'll use "Maintenance Paint". I'll be doing a video on "Maintenance Paint" in the future. Thanks again for watching and the comment. -Mat W/1T

Lol! Funny, it seems like I distress most people in my life in addition to sponges. It was the only descriptor I could think of when I was doing the V/O. I felt it sounded a bit better than; "I rip chunks out of a grout sponge." ;) Thanks for watching, taking the time to comment and the laugh! -Mat W/1T