How to Install a Schluter Shower Tray, Drain and Custom Shower Curb. DIY

If you get a chance, please check out these Amazon links for products and tools that I use and recommend. **By clicking the links below, a couple pennies of your purchase goes to help 1T Fit and Finish through the Amazon Associates Program**
amzn.to/3NlBqbi - Schluter systems products on Amazon
Schluter Kerdi-shower:
amzn.to/3uRpS9B - Schluter Kerdi-Shower Kit 38" x60", PVC Flange
amzn.to/41eghWl - Schluter Kerdi-Drain Grate Kit, 4" Stainless Steel Finish
amzn.to/3No7DyW - Schluter Systems Thinset (ALL SET MODIFIED WHITE (50LB))
amzn.to/478ks7D - Schluter Systems Kerdi 1/8" X 1/8" Square Notch Trowel
amzn.to/4agTPQi - Schluter Kerdi Fix Grey Sealant 9.81OZ
Other Trowels I use:
amzn.to/46RM6Wb - Rubi PRO Bucket Trowel-Carbon STEEL-7” (Highly Recommend)
amzn.to/3thoJaE - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubiflex Handle Notches Size: 1/2" x 1/2"
amzn.to/3GAElZQ - Rubi Tools Square Notch Trowel - 1/4" x 3/8”
amzn.to/3RAKtHR - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubiflex Handle Notches Size: 1/4" x 1/4”
amzn.to/46N1vXT - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubl Square Notch Trowel - 1/8" x 1/8” (for Kerdi-membrane and Kerdi-Band)
amzn.to/46Nac4t - Rubi Steel Notched Trowel - 3/16" x 3/16” (for Ditra underlayment)
Tile cutting blades (highly recommend):
amzn.to/4adF6Wm - Rubi Tools 4-1/2" VIP Premium Dry Diamond Blade (used on the grinder)
amzn.to/4agwz5i - Pearl Abrasive P4 DIA07TT Turbo Mesh Blade (used on 7” wet saw)
Tile Cutter/Cracker I use:
amzn.to/3Nlw4wQ - QEP 10624Q 24" Slimline Professional Tile Cutter
Spin Doctor Leveling system:
amzn.to/3NnYC90 - Spin Doctor Lippage Control System 250 Starter Kit With 1/8 Base plates, Tile Leveling System 1/8
amzn.to/4898Odt - Spin Doctor Clear View Shield (I really like these for reducing the friction when tightening down the leveling caps)
amzn.to/4abSt9J - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1 by 16Th", 1.5mm- 1 Box of 250 Piece
amzn.to/3NndDHZ - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/16" Baseplates 2000Pc Bulk Box
amzn.to/3TfCAJn - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/8" Baseplates 250Pc
amzn.to/3RCZgSH - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/8” (2000 PIECES BULK))
Horseshoe Tile Spacers:
amzn.to/488E24m - Horseshoe Shim Tile Spacers 1/16 Inch (300)
amzn.to/3GBhDkn - Horseshoe Shim Tile Spacers 1/8 Inch, (300)
This is my step-by-step process for installing a Schluter shower tray and curb prior to waterproofing.
I prepare the sub-floor and make it level. Using expanding foam, I create small barriers so the self leveling compound won't flow into the drain and under the stud walls. I mix and pour the self leveler and allow to cure. When I return I trim away the expandable foam and begin marking out where the curb and tray will be positioned.
The next step is to cut and prepare the Schluter Shower Tray to fit within the space, with the drain hole centered over the drain pipe.
I use a tile to dictate the width and hight of the custom shower curb. Be aware that waterproofing can lead to the membrane building up in the corners. The curb hight and width can be reduced as much as 1/8" less than the actual tile being used.
The drain is dry-fit into place over the drain pipe and measurements for can be made. Refer to the Schluter no drain access on KZbin for an alternative install method.
The shower tray is set to the subfloor with unmodified thinset mortar. The drain is glued into place and set into the shower tray with thinset. Next the custom curb is set into place.
The final part of the install is using drypack mortar bed to build up the space between the shower tray and curb.
Please feel free to leave any comments good, bad or otherwise.

[@scottcoryell1440]

Great video thank you. I actually enjoyed your music

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

LOL! Thank you very much Scott. Thanks for watching and the compliment. My latest video which finished out this build actually had the music volume at about 50%. Thanks again for watching and the comment! -Mat W/1T

[@darksky7810]

I need this exact video and explanation and video with installing the drain and plumbing. About to do that step.

[@darksky7810]

I said video twice.....im tired

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there DS, I think I understand what you're sayin'. :) Let me start off by saying thank you for watching and commenting! I do hope that this video helps, that's the point. As I'm sure you know, there are two parts to the drain; the main body, which is installed during the waterproofing and the frame/grate/hight adjustment collar which is installed during tiling. I include the entire process in this playlist; kzbin.info/aero/PLTekIBzJTs4dFJAG42c_u46xIxdRZei4c. I'd say that the key to success during the drain body install is making sure it's level. Of course you want to make sure that the drain flange is the lowest point in the tray and everything slopes toward it. I would like to add that Schluter puts out a TON of info on their own channel. This link is the one on installing the drain body: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q169en-PfriYjpo. Super amazing resource for proper installation. Please feel free to ask any questions and I'll try to help as best I can. Thanks again for watching! Good Luck! I'm sure your project will turn out amazing!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

@@darksky7810 I hope your install worked out. -M@ W/1T

[@darksky7810]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF entire bathroom redone. I know my faults but it turned out amazing. I had no experiance with bathroom remodels. I studied each step on youtube and pulled it off thanks to guys like you.

[@rogerbakke7535]

Hello, was the section you dry packed just yo extend the size of the shower area? Thx

[@lengland9024]

Great video, music a bit too loud. Why no backfill to subfloor hole around drainpipe?

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Lengland. Yea, I got a lot of comments about the music on those very first videos last year. I've made adjustments since. It was my personal taste to have the music loud, but I've learned that the content is more important than entertainment (actually, I think it might be a mixture of both). So... Why didn't I backfill the subfloor? There's a couple reasons. First, this install was a "blind" install. I really prefer to set the complete shower tray before installing the drain flange. On these kinds of installs, Schluter prefers that you remove the foam "spacers" from the shower tray to use for height adjustment to glue in the drain flange. Using this method I could have used the foam spacers for the drain flange, allowed the PVC glue to dry, removed the foam spacers, tediously backfilled the subfloor under the installed flange, placed the foam spacers back in place then set the rest of the tray... If I would have backfilled the subfloor before installing the flange, the joint between the drain flange and the drain pipe would likely have been contaminated. In the end, the majority of the flange was over subfloor and turned out solid. Based on the history of the shower(s) in this bathroom, I was trying to mitigate potential failure points. This was the fourth shower installed in this bathroom in 3 years. The first shower was a homeowner install right before the current owners purchased the house (waterproofing system unknown). That drain failed and the shower had to be demoed. The second shower install was professionally done in virtually the same way I installed this one. The plumbers cross threaded the shower arm which failed and the shower had to be demoed. The third shower was installed by a tile setter who "claimed" to be a professional. The curb was installed incorrectly and the glass surround couldn't be installed. I had to demo it, plumb the walls and install this (hopefully) last shower. My apologies for the lengthy response and for taking so long to get back to you. The backfill question was a bit of a dilemma during this install. I put some thought into it considering the penny tile used on the floor (also not recommended by Schluter). Thanks so much for the watching and the comment! If you haven't yet I'd really appreciate your subscription. -Mat W/1T

[@JohnathanAulabaugh]

So I read your answer to the why you needed to use the dry pack but my question is will the dry pack being level with the Schluter pan create a space for water to get under the pan?

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hi there Mr. Aulabaugh. Thanks for watching. Thanks for your question and I'm glad the video was thorough enough to make sense. The way I visualize the shower system is as a giant envelope. The drypack is simply part of the substrate. The Schluter System itself is what makes everything waterproof. Every crack that is directly exposed to water has to be covered with membrane (with a 2" overlap). There are other Scluter shower trays with off set drain options. This was the tray the company I subcontracted for sent me. I had to make it work. Thanks again for watching. Please feel free to contact me if you have any more questions. You can find my email on my channel homepage. Good luck! -Mat W/1T

[@mr.eastcoastgrow6132]

Having a cleaner work area when gluing your pvc and dry fitting would be a better practice.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hello there Mr Eastcoast. Thanks for watching and commenting. I do try to keep everything cleaned and vacuumed. You're right, I can always be cleaner. Thanks again! -Mat W/1T

[@Elgoogz]

can you install a schluter pan when the curb was already installed ?

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hi there JS. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. Without knowing a little more about the situation it's hard to assess. Do you mean if the curb is installed and already tiled? if so, then no. If the curb is installed (wood, kerdi, drypack) and not tiled, then yes the shower tray can be installed after. The key is that it will need to be waterproofed with kerdi band or membrane. The membrane and/or Band is what ties the complete waterproofing system together. I hope that answers your question. Thanks again. -Mat W/1T

[@mrdavester]

Is there a noticeable dip or mismatch with the wall tiling run along that cut side of the off center drain? I have to deal with an offset drain too thanks to a joist.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hi there mrdavester. First off, thanks for watching! Please refer to 4:35 on this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZqbkn6Qh6yFaqs The trick is to find the lowest spot where the shower tray and wall meet. That will be your "full width" tile mark. From there, you will need to cut each of your other wall tiles for the first run. On this install, I purposefully made sure that less than a full tile would be required for the entire first row and cut each to follow the contour of the floor. I outline how I do that in the linked video. Thanks for watching and the comment, please visit my channel and if you haven't yet, please subscribe. -Mat W/1T

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

My apologies, the linked time sends you to this current video. This link should take you right to the spot I'm referring. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZqbkn6Qh6yFaqs Thanks again -M@

[@mrdavester]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF thanks, appreciate it. i had learned long ago that you don't typically run the first course of tile at full height. Always need that fudge factor if there are dips on the way. Plus you usually need to half it up with the top row.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

@@mrdavester My pleasure! I guess I didn't answer your original question... Yes, there's a bit of a dip, but it's not that noticeable. Hope this helped. -M@

[@lawrencemongell4303]

Do you need to add the coupler? Are you able to glue the drain directly to the pipe?

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hi there Lawrence, Thank you for the comment and it's a great question. The answer is dependent on where your stub-out is. In this instance I had removed the old shower which was also a schluter system. That meant that the drain was cut below the flange. In order to bring the drain pipe up I needed to add the coupler and a few inches of pipe. If your stub-out is up far enough then yes, you can glue directly to the drain pipe. Thanks for watching and thank you for the question. If you have a chance please subscribe to the channel! -Mat W/1T

[@lawrencemongell4303]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF thanks a lot, one other question. Why dry pack that mortar along the edge? Do you have to do that or can you use the shower pan all the way to the curb?

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

That's another great question. For this job I had a very specific dimension for the glass door. The curb had to be centered below the glass. The shower tray that was provided to me was a 48"x72". With the shower drain being off center so far it left the edges of the tray short of the curb. I cannot remember the dimensions off hand, but I think I had to cut one foot off the short side and two feet off the long side. I used the dry pack to fill in the gap between the curb and the shower tray. If the drain would have been center or closer to center I wouldn't have had to use the drypack. Hope I answered your question. Thank you again for watching and the comment. -M@ W/1T

[@flacau34]

This maybe a dumb question. Im definitely no tiler . Why didnt you fit the pan all the way to the curb? Maybe i missed the answer in the video

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Mr. Cosma. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Thank you for watching the video too. I answered a question similar to this awhile back. Here's what I said: "That's another great question. For this job I had a very specific dimension for the glass wall. The curb had to be centered below the glass. The shower tray that was provided to me was 48"x72" with the drain hole in the center of the tray. With the actual shower drain being off center so far it left the edges of the tray short of the curb. I cannot remember the dimensions off hand, but I think I had to cut one foot off the short side and two feet off the long side. Really, If I had a drawing, I could explain it way easier. I hope that answered your question and THANK you for watching and commenting! -Mat W/1T

[@jacobmaier8993]

Is the drain being off center normative?

[@mr.eastcoastgrow6132]

This is not a good practice. Plan your drain better. He was limited here but could have moved the drain over with a bit of extra work.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hi there Jacob. Thanks for watching. Thank you for the comment, and it's a good question. The reason this drain was where it is, is because originally there was a tub in this location. In order to move the drain to center, I would have had to cut the concrete. I'd then have to dig down a couple feet, hire a plumber to reroute the line, backfill then pour new concrete. If you watch the first video in the playlist, I mention that this is the third shower installed in this location due to the first two failing. The home owners would not have signed off on moving the drain. To answer the question. In remodels with concrete floors, it is pretty normal for me to install this way. If I'm installing where I have access to the drain eg. wooden subfloor I typically move the drain to center or to the tray offset. Thank you for the question/comment! Thanks for watching. -Mat W/1T

[@OG_SQUID_MTB]

Don’t you have to fill in the plumbers box with the system?

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey Ben. Thanks for watching and the comment. That is a great question! This is what it says in the Schluter Shower Installation Handbook: "Locate and cut a hole in the substrate for the drain outlet and coupling to the waste line using the template provided. Limit the diameter of the hole to 5" (125mm) maximum to insure proper support for the tile assembly. NOTE: Fill in box-outs in concrete floors with dry-pack mortar or concrete. A pipe coupling or similar can be used as a form around the waste line." The way I read that is that you can build a form approximately five inches in diameter and backfill the hole. There will still be a gap around the actual plumbing waste line of approximately one inch all the way around the three inch pipe. Therefore the drain line is still free floating. That being said... On this particular install, the existing hole was small enough that the entire circumference of the drain flange was supported. The PVC stub-out was solid and did not flex. I was comfortable installing the flange without having to fill in the box-out any further. Once the tray is in place, the flange is then installed with thin-set. This incases the flange in thin-set preventing lateral movement. I hope this answers your question. Thanks again for watching and the comment! Please subscribe if you get the chance. -Mat W/1T

[@OG_SQUID_MTB]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF Thanks for your reply . Looks like I will meet to fill it in .

[@scottsachs2547]

You're Doing A Great Job Matt!! But........ That Music......OMG... Not So Great! New Subscriber Here. :-) Just Saying.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Looked at your subscription list. Looks like older 70's. I'll do my best to accommodate. Maybe not awesome 60's 70's rock, but I'll try "rock" on my next vids. Thanks!

[@EdgarHernandezragde]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF It's not the type of music, it's the wild music volume swings and overall volume at max. I'm not here for a music video, I'm here for an instructional. I'd be completely OK with no music.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

@@EdgarHernandezragde Hey there Edgar. I understand. I'll be turning the volume down on the upcoming videos. Thank you for watching! Thank you for the comment. :)

[@throlyhd9448]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF i agree with edgar , music is way too loud had to watch with volume off. great content though

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

@@throlyhd9448 I really do appreciate the comments. Loud and clear! (no pun intended) I'll adjust volumes and repost. I think this was the 5th video I posted so there might be a bit of a learning curve. My next video, which I should have finished any day now, has all the music volume down to 10%. It's somewhat of an arbitrary number however, in comparison to 100% I hope it will still add value to the content without distraction. The next video is this shower actually tiled and finished. Thanks for watching!

[@Nebuchadnezzar18]

Nice job, just an observation Isn't the pre sloped pan supposed to go in first before the walls? I noticed you installed the boards on the wall then the pre formed pan ?

[@thefullmonte2003]

Does not matter

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hi there! What a great name, Nebuchadnezzar the Babylonian King. So, the short answer is no, it doesn't really matter considering that the Kerdi-Band waterproofs the system. If the joint failed it wouldn't matter if it was horizontal or vertical water would still migrate out. I've seen water move up a failed joint through capillary action. The long answer: I have several thoughts on this. I've installed the tray both ways. one thought I had was that having the kerdiboard overlap the tray, water would migrate inward similar to window and siding installation. I prefer to install the walls first. That's also how the actual Schluter training videos show how to install. That is also how the Schluter Installation Handbook indicates to do it. Being that the shower tray has multiple angles on it's surface, it's much more difficult to cut the Kerdi-Board to match the top of the tray. It's more important to have a good solid foundation for the tile to be set on. Finally, you don't really want to be spending a lot of time walking all over the foam shower tray. Just kneeling on it puts dents in it. If you drop a tool on the tray there's a possibility to damage the waterproof fleece. Thank you very much for the comment/question. Thank you for watching! -Mat W/1T

[@Nebuchadnezzar18]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF Matt, you're a wise man my friend. Thanks for the great explanation. Good luck and God bless.

[@eemmonline]

Why do you do the dry pack and not just install the pan all the way to the curb?

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Patrick, thanks for watching! I apologize for the delayed response I've been out of town. I actually answered this same question a week before you asked. This was my reply: "That's another great question. For this job I had a very specific dimension for the glass door. The curb had to be centered below the glass. The shower tray that was provided to me was a 48"x72". With the shower drain being off center so far it left the edges of the tray short of the curb. I cannot remember the dimensions off hand, but I think I had to cut one foot off the short side and two feet off the long side. I used the dry pack to fill in the gap between the curb and the shower tray. If the drain would have been center or closer to center I wouldn't have had to use the drypack." I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching! If you get a chance, please subscribe to the channel. -Mat W/1T

[@marcopoulin1897]

Dry pack old school

[@thefullmonte2003]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF Just use the left over cut off material from the pan. Waste of time mudding this.

[@devil262786]

@@thefullmonte2003 I guess you never use foam pans they are pre slope. If you use the leftover foam, there’s a chance that it could be either be sloping towards the middle of the joint or sloping towards the curb what he did makes the most sense.

[@jsnyder5367]

Walls first? Some say floor first…..I’ve been getting told both ways is better.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there jsnyder5367. Thank you for watching and leaving a comment. That is a great question. I can certainly understand the thought behind hanging Kerdi-Board overlapping the shower tray. Similarly to framing in a window, or installing roofing, overlapping reduces the opportunity for water to seep past or "flow up". As per the Schluter Shower System Installation Handbook, it states; "Shower walls may be made waterproof using KERDI/KERDI-DS or KERDI-BOARD prior to construction of the shower base". Schluter has an amazing presence on KZbin. If you watch their videos they always hang the walls prior to setting the tray. I've considered this question from many different angles. Many times I need to cut the Shower Tray to fit in a certain location. Often, the taper of the tray is not consistent where the board and tray meet. I would have to scribe the Kerdi-Board in order to get a nice tight fit, where as, I only have to make right angle cuts to the tray to make a tight fit to the wall. Hanging the walls first reduces the amount of "traffic" atop the shower tray. The tray is made of expanded polystyrene with the waterproof "fleece" integrated over it (think styrofoam coffee cups). It's not really that durable, dents extremely easily and I'm always cautious not to damage the waterproof membrane by dropping something on it. Ultimately, it's the Kerdi-Band applied in the corners that make the shower waterproof. If the Kerdi-Band fails, the shower fails. Water will find a way through the gap regardless of which one was installed first. After all of that, IMHO, it's really all about personal preference. ;) I hope that answers your question! Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment. If you get a chance please check out the rest of my channel. If you would please, share and subscribe. -Mat W/1T

[@mgjamisonaz]

Content good, audio is horrible, couldn’t deal with it and moved on

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Thank you for your constructive criticism. Yes, I've had this comment quite a bit on my earlier videos. If you get a chance check out some of my newer content. I have toned down the music a lot. Thanks for watching (as much as you could handle) :) and thank you for the comment! Hopefully I can win you over with future videos. -Mat W/1T