Waterproofing a corner shower with Schluter membrane, kerdi-band before tile.

If you get a chance, please check out these Amazon links for products and tools that I use and recommend. **By clicking the links below, a couple pennies of your purchase goes to help 1T Fit and Finish through the Amazon Associates Program**
amzn.to/3NlBqbi - Schluter systems products on Amazon
Schluter Kerdi-shower:
amzn.to/3uRpS9B - Schluter Kerdi-Shower Kit 38" x60", PVC Flange
amzn.to/41eghWl - Schluter Kerdi-Drain Grate Kit, 4" Stainless Steel Finish
amzn.to/3No7DyW - Schluter Systems Thinset (ALL SET MODIFIED WHITE (50LB))
amzn.to/478ks7D - Schluter Systems Kerdi 1/8" X 1/8" Square Notch Trowel
amzn.to/4agTPQi - Schluter Kerdi Fix Grey Sealant 9.81OZ
Other Trowels I use:
amzn.to/46RM6Wb - Rubi PRO Bucket Trowel-Carbon STEEL-7” (Highly Recommend)
amzn.to/3thoJaE - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubiflex Handle Notches Size: 1/2" x 1/2"
amzn.to/3GAElZQ - Rubi Tools Square Notch Trowel - 1/4" x 3/8”
amzn.to/3RAKtHR - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubiflex Handle Notches Size: 1/4" x 1/4”
amzn.to/46N1vXT - Rubi Tools Trowel W/ Rubl Square Notch Trowel - 1/8" x 1/8” (for Kerdi-membrane and Kerdi-Band)
amzn.to/46Nac4t - Rubi Steel Notched Trowel - 3/16" x 3/16” (for Ditra underlayment)
Tile cutting blades (highly recommend):
amzn.to/4adF6Wm - Rubi Tools 4-1/2" VIP Premium Dry Diamond Blade (used on the grinder)
amzn.to/4agwz5i - Pearl Abrasive P4 DIA07TT Turbo Mesh Blade (used on 7” wet saw)
Tile Cutter/Cracker I use:
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Spin Doctor Leveling system:
amzn.to/3NnYC90 - Spin Doctor Lippage Control System 250 Starter Kit With 1/8 Base plates, Tile Leveling System 1/8
amzn.to/4898Odt - Spin Doctor Clear View Shield (I really like these for reducing the friction when tightening down the leveling caps)
amzn.to/4abSt9J - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1 by 16Th", 1.5mm- 1 Box of 250 Piece
amzn.to/3NndDHZ - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/16" Baseplates 2000Pc Bulk Box
amzn.to/3TfCAJn - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/8" Baseplates 250Pc
amzn.to/3RCZgSH - Spin Doctor Tile Leveling System 1/8” (2000 PIECES BULK))
Horseshoe Tile Spacers:
amzn.to/488E24m - Horseshoe Shim Tile Spacers 1/16 Inch (300)
amzn.to/3GBhDkn - Horseshoe Shim Tile Spacers 1/8 Inch, (300)
In this video we apply the Schluter system to waterproof a corner shower.
We start by cutting Kerdi-band into 5"x5" squares. Using Schluter-Set thinset mortar, the walls are waterproofed by embedding Kerdi-band onto the substrate walls.
Moving down to the shower tray, we use Kerdi membrane, Kerdi Kereck corners and Kerdi band to waterproof all corners and the custom curb.

[@outlawzescortz]

Out of all the videos I have watched on water proofing I would say yours is the best. I like the way you take the time to go into detail of how and why you do it. I am in the middle of building my shower and I am to the part where water proofing begins and I been kind of holding off because there was some parts I could not comprehend. Thanks for the detailed vides. Now I have more confidence in doing it!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Thank you so much for the comment. I take it as a tremendous compliment. Thank you for watching as well. This is the entire reason I started the channel; to give back and help people (and entertain a bit along the way). The actual Schluter channel does a great job of showing all the steps too. Most tile stores that carry Schluter products will also have the "Schluter Shower System Installation Handbook". The handbook contains a ton of information, step-by-step instructions and is available at no cost. I think the main thing most folks fail to understand is that the substrate under the tile is actually what waterproofs the shower. Drypack, thinset and grout are all porous and water can penetrate. Tile and grout help direct the bulk of the water toward the drain, but there is always latent moisture. Caulk is used more for an expansion joint in the corners more so than waterproofing. The substrate under the tile is what confines the water keeping it from migrating and damaging outside the wet area. I hope your job goes well. The biggest thing to remember while using Kerdi is try to keep from building up too much in the corners. Kerdi is 8mil (8 thousandths of an inch) while Kerdi-Band is 4mil (4 thousandths). It doesn't seem like much, but when you start including 1/16" of thinset it can build-up. Good luck! Thank you for the comment! Enjoy the process!

[@butts4653]

Yeah it's amazing how many videos are out there on KZbin where they just completely gloss over when they switch from a 1/4x1/4 trowel to a 1/8x1/8 trowel. You would think that would be something you absolutely wouldn't want to leave out but this is the first video series I watched where he explains that he's switching trowels

[@JohnathanAulabaugh]

I guess this video answered my question lol Very cool I am getting ready to do a similar setup where the drain is offset and this should work for me as well.. Thank you!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Just wanted to add a reply to this reply... I am also a photographer. I've been freelancing since the days of film. My portrait and wedding days are pretty much behind me. It was nice in the film days when you retained the negatives and just ordered and marked up reprints. These days I go after the fast easy money shooting real estate and architecture. Best of luck again with your project! -Mat W/1T

[@scottsachs2547]

Ok! I'm Hooked! Looking Good Matt!!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Thank you! Let me know what kind of material you're looking for. I do a ton of different construction.

[@frey28]

Excellent video. I'm doing this exact job this weekend. Very helpful. Subscribed

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Fernando! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! I'm grateful that the video was useful. That's exactly why I made it. Apologies for taking so long to respond. How'd your job go? how long did it take? Thanks again for watching. -Mat W/1T

[@dunklechuck1188]

I did tub pull. Walk-in shower build…. Used Kerdi pan n drain system.. Go board walls. Kerdi band n unmodified thinset on pan to wall seams.. aqua defense n membrane on wall corners.. aqua defense on go board screws.. entire build flawless.. kerdi band adhered to go board perfectly. I triple coated all seams w aqua defense too…. Kerdi is good. Go board is good. Good demo!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Sounds like an interesting install. I've been looking at the Go board and looks like a quick, affordable and easy solution. What's their warrantee like? Cost of Go Board sheet vs kerdi-board sheet? Aqua Defense and RedGard are great products. @TileCoach does several reviews on the products. When applied right, I think they provide an acceptable moisture barrier. I use it on the underside of my custom epoxy countertops and vanities in wet areas. The big draw to the full Schluter system for me is that lifetime warrantee (if the system is installed per manufacturer specs). Materials and labor are covered. Considering our current economic state, one failed shower might throw me into slinging burgers. "Welcome to King Donalds, may I take your order please?" It's nice to have a little peace of mind. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!

[@dunklechuck1188]

3x5 Go Board was bout $25 ea. give it look. You’ll be impressed

[@XCBen]

Great job on this video, bud.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there XCBen! Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the compliment! There's more coming, so please stay tuned. -M@ W/1T

[@garyenos2552]

Please look into applying two coats of water proofer such as hydroban, I have seen this system fail with out it, but great technique in applying the mesh, but I feel misleading people in thinking that is a waterproofer is wrong, mortar is porous and will absorb water and eventually break down the schluter product

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Gary. Thanks for visiting my channel and watching. There's actually quite a bit of information to unpack from your comment. I'd like to start off by saying that I have seen some minor failures with this product. However, the failures I've seen have been from improper installation or cracked/disbonded tiles shifting and flexing near the joints. The cracked tiles were the culprit not the system itself. I have heard that if you mix the thinset too dry, it may cause failures as well. I also agree thinset is porous and does take in water. However, I've seen way more Hydroban/Aquadefence/RedGard over greenboard/drypack failures. Most of the failures I see are from incorrect thinset coverage on the tiles themselves. The problem with saying that any of the elastomeric waterproofing membranes are actually "waterproof" is that they are only considered waterproof if installed to a specific mil thickness. The TDS on RedGard states: "Combined dried coatings must be at least 30-35 mils thick. When wet, the combined coatings must be at least 60-70 mils and must not exceed 125 mils wet-film thickness.". Do you have and use a Wet Film Thickness Gauge? The polyethylene itself is hydrophobic; is the elastomeric membrane even able to bond to KERDI? If the premium unmodified thinset mortar is mixed correctly, the fleece between the two Schluter surfaces creates a mechanical anchor. Although a small amount of water might be able to penetrate the very edges, the polyethylene and polyester are naturally hydrophobic and waterproof. If installed correctly, water will not penetrate to the inner structure of the shower. (as long as the tiles are also installed correctly with proper coverage/adhesion and is well maintained and not cracked, broken or loose). Schluter has a lifetime warrantee on these products. That is, as long as they are installed correctly and as per the manufactures specification. The warrantee covers all materials AND labor. Adding an elastomeric waterproofing membrane over the Schluter waterproof membrane would absolutely void the warrantee. To be honest, I believe in redundancy so I can understand the thought behind adding more membrane onto the membrane. Thanks again for watching. Thank you for the comment. If you get a chance, please subscribe to the channel. -Mat W/1T

[@brockjones4730]

Hey Matt, great video! Definitely found the balance between the too much and not enough information. Curious question that you may have explained in another video, but why the dry pack between the shower tray and the curb? Could one just put the tray straight against the curb (then corner and band all the connections, obviously) Not a judgement, an actual question. Thanks!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Brock! Thanks for watching and the comment. That is a good question and I get asked quite often. This is my reply: "That's another great question. For this job I had a very specific dimension for the glass surround and the curb had to be centered under it. The shower tray that was provided to me was 48"x72" and had a center drain. With the actual shower drain being off center so far, it left the edges of the tray short of the curb. I cannot remember the dimensions off hand, but I think I had to cut one foot off the short side and two feet off the long side. I used the dry pack to fill in the gap between the curb and the shower tray. If the drain would have been center or closer to center I would not have had to use the drypack." I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching! If you get a chance, please subscribe to the channel. -Mat W/1T

[@YourTampaRealtors]

Great video! Loved the box top tip for the 5" squares. However, you didn't cover waterproofing the square shower mixer!! I am having issues putting a round seal on a square mixer. Give me a clue...please!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Mike! Thank you so much for watching and the compliment. FYI, I do show how I ended up waterproofing the odd shaped mixing unit in the next video in this series. The video is nearly complete. I've read and seen videos where folks take Kerdi-Fix or silicon and slather it between the opening in the Kerdi-Board and plastic flange of the mixing valve. I'm sure it works just fine I just find it a little unrefined. My method, I'm not sure I've ever seen anyone else do it this way, is to use a piece of Kerdi-Membrane (I think a couple pieces of Kerdi-Band with the proper overlap would work as well). I measure a two inch line around the mixing valve, marking it with a marker on the Kerdi-Board. Then cut a piece of membrane "patch" to fit within the marker lines. From there I cut a hole inside the patch that is slightly smaller than the mixing valve bracket. Dryfit everything making sure it's a very tight fit. Then, using K-Fix I bond the patch to the plastic edge of mixing valve and K-Board. You could use thinset to bond the patch to the K-board, but still need K-Fix to bond the membrane to the plastic. I still use silicon caulk around the edge of the faucet face plate as well. The next video in this series shows what my looks like. Hope this helps. Thanks again! -Mat

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Howdy Mike. Just posted the next video; "Tiling a Corner Shower with Subway Tile" I show how I waterproof the odd shaped mixing valve right at about 8 minutes in. Thanks again for watching!

[@YourTampaRealtors]

@@Mat-W-1TFandF thanks!

[@butts4653]

I don't understand how you manage to stay so clean doing this. Just did my first kerdi shower install and I was covered from head to toe in thinset. It's not even on your hands!

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

LOL! Well, thanks! Yes, I try to stay as clean as possible. I also try to stay as clean as possible when I'm taping and painting drywall as well. The only time it's really unavoidable is when I shoot texture and spray paint. If it's a big enough job I'll jump into the Tyvek suit. This is a lot like taping drywall. I've taped tens of miles of sheetrock seams. I typically keep a towel tucked into one of my belt loops and a bucket of fresh water and a sponge near by. If I do get a little mud on my hands my habit is to wipe it on the wall, then the towel. It also seems that Schluter-Set is cleaner than Schluter All-Set. Unfortunately, I've been told they are no longer making "Set". Just remember mud goes on the walls! You can save on material costs that way. :) Thanks for watching and the comment! -Mat W/1T

[@marcopoulin1897]

Because rockie are dirty

[@corey11011]

Question.. why did you leave the end where the toilet is cut at the top ?

[@corey11011]

Also you didn’t really show how you waterproofed the inside corner

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Corey. That is a great question and thanks for watching so intently! Seriously impressive that you noticed. The short answer is that I used up my remaining thin-set I had on the job-site that day. The next day that I came in to set the floor mosaic tile, I finished up that small corner with a small piece of membrane and three Kerick corners right before I started setting the mosaic. That is one of the wonderful things about the Schluter System; you can set tile the same day you waterproof! In my next video, which I almost have edited, you can see those corners waterproofed. It's even a different color thin-set. I used a Kerdi-Kerick inside and outside corners just like I showed in the rest if this video. Thank you again for watching!

[@DebKiwi]

Great info but PLEASE, NO MUSIC! The volume goes up and down and at some parts, I struggle to hear you. Music isn’t necessary for these types of videos and it’s distracting.

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there Debs! Thanks for watching the video. I agree that the music on some of my videos has been a bit loud and I've started turning it down in the videos. (I think I have 20 vids on my channel now, I can't remember what number this one was). IMovie does reduce the music volume during my Voice Over parts. It's actually a similar process I used when I was a DJ back in the 90s. I can see how that might come across as kind of annoying. I'm still learning this video editing business and I will do better! :) I do prefer having a little music in the background for the entertainment and production value so I'm probably going to be keeping it (I know it's not really needed in a how-to)... I'll just be sure to keep it lower in the future. Again... Thank you for your comment. Thank you for your input. Thank you for watching. Please come back and hold me to my word that I'll adjust my volumes better. :)

[@marcopoulin1897]

Shluter panel to much work N $$ use densheild N redgard

[@Mat-W-1TFandF]

Hey there marcopoulin1897 Thanks for your comment! I appreciate your constructive criticism. How many times have you used Schluter products? I've actually used DensShield and RedGard on installs. I don't believe your troll is sound. :) The cost of DensShield is about $1.60 per square foot. The cost of Kerdi board is about $3.70. However, the Cost of RedGard, at the REQUIRED thickness of 47 mil, is $3.30 per square foot (20sf per gallon to achieve 47mil). So, if "properly" installed, it costs quite a bit more than Schluter. The dust created by cutting and handling DensShield is toxic and comes with an alarming SDS warning label (you choose to read it). DensShield is "water resistant" not "waterproof". There's a huge difference between those two words when you're talking about a $10K second floor shower. ***I didn't include the cost of thinset, Kerdi-Band and gaskets but it's still less $$ than densheild N redgard.*** :) RedGard is pretty toxic stuff too. RedGard requires multiple coats in order to achieve the required 47 mil thickness (as per ANSI A118.12). Do you use a thickness "comb", "wheel" or digital gauge to make sure you've got the correct coverage? What kind of warranty do these two products have? How much will your work cost when it fails because you haven't used enough RedGard to waterproof your system? Schluter has a lifetime warranty. This is straight off the Schluter website: "Our System and Lifetime Warranties have you covered. Full resolution. Full cost. All the way down to materials and labor...". I can cut Kerdi Board with a utility knife (without a respirator) and be setting tile the same day I install the substrate. A 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" Kerdi-Board weighs about 1/8th what a sheet of 3'x5' DensShield does. Kerdi-Board is "waterproof". So, DenShield and RedGard actually costs more per square foot, is more difficult and takes longer to work with and install. Oh, and it's toxic. Maybe you should try actually using Schluter products? :) Don't get me wrong, I'm not a total Schluter fanboy. If you compare Schluter to something like GoBoard I would understand a cost/time savings. I actually like the look of GoBoard and am considering using it on an install. It's just hard to compete with the Schluter Lifetime Warranty. At the end of the day saving a few bucks in materials isn't worth losing the piece-of-mind. Oh, yea... I do think RedGard is a good product and still use it on custom countertops with under-mount sinks. Thanks again for watching. I appreciate the comment. Please feel free to watch and comment of my other Schluter videos! :) -Mat W/1T