Thanks! :-) It's around 0.5 mm as far as I can tell.

@thecultofcrafting : okay. Thank you. I will try it out. 👍🏼😊

Thanks! :-D No, I hadn't, but that's a pretty good idea. If My initial thought is to have the stairs end in a little platform - a flat box - and hot glue some magnets inside that box.

Or find some thicker material like foamed PVC and drill some magnet holes into that. Should be easier than making a cardboard box.

Sorry to hear that. 😞

Thanks! 😊 You'll be very disappointed by the rest of my videos then. 😄

thanks for the shout-out! <3

Oh, sorry. I guess I didn't demonstrate it that thoroughly. Yeah, it's pretty good. It'll cut up to 8 mm thick balsa with no issue. Width up to 6 cm. Nice fast and straight cuts.

@@thecultofcrafting Thanks! I think I will try to make one too, incorporating the improvements you suggested at the end. Great idea!

Yup. Or a track saw! Though that'll probably cost me a finger or two. 😆

Oh, I should have mentioned that in the video. Also cork.

Yup! 😂

1 cm EPS foam, but EPS foam is crap, so use XPS or foamboard or cork instead. 8 mm balsa. Both I bought locally - try a hobby store for the balsa and a hardware store for foam. 1,5 or 2mm Medium Weight Chipboard from Amazon. The buildings are 4-7 inches tall and 5-7 inches wide. Have fun! :-)

I haven't played much with grout.I did give it a try in this case with some random grout I had lying around, but it wasn't great. Is there a big difference in hardness between types of grout?

Thanks! Yup, I have. It's super cool. :-) Won't be in the near future, but I might make one eventually.

That's interesting. 👍 I don't know much about that or even what a polymer really is, come to think of it. I'll have to look into that - thanks for suggesting it. I believe plasters forms different crystalline structures depending on how the gypsum is processed. Some of it is fairly hard and there are materials with crystalline structures out there that are a lot harder. It seems that plaster has a fairly low tensile strength - I don't know if that's always the case, but it has been with the materials I've worked with. And that's of course why you're suggesting adding fibers, which will definitely help with the tensile load (in the case of polymers, I have resins that seem ductile and some brittle, so I guess polymers can be both?) It seems I made a mistake in how I showed and explained the issue in the video, because plaster snapping in half isn't really much of an problem - at least for me. Chipping is the real issue, and I don't know which types of strengths and loads that factor into that. Unless there are some very fine fibers (I believe the ones you're talking about are more than 10mm) I don't know about, I don't think it'll help with chipping, unfortunately.

@@thecultofcrafting My bad, I totally missed the real issue you were trying to solve! Yeah adding fiberglass would increase the tensile strength and make it less brittle, but if you're trying to solve paint scratching you'll want to focus on a surface treatment after the plaster dries instead of additives. I think your best bet would either be to put down a couple layers of matte spray varnish after painting or to apply something like PVA glue watered down enough to absorb into the surface of the plaster before painting. The second option would probably mess with the painting technique you like since it would change how well the plaster absorbs the paint, but might solve the chipping/scraping problem better than varnish.

Well, I didn't say it _works_ through evaporation. I said it _dries_ . 🙂 Water causes plaster to set through an exothermic chemical reaction, yes. That usually happens within half an hour, give or take. There is still water in the plaster, though, and the plaster dries as the water evaporates over the next week or so. Of course, depending on the type of plaster, water to plaster ratio, etc. Feel free to correct me if I am mistaken. 🙂👍

Well, I'm north of _A_ border. :-D

Thanks! :-) It's from Epidemic Sound.

@@thecultofcrafting thanks!

Yeah, that'd probably help. :-)

Ouch. What went wrong, you think?

@@thecultofcrafting If I had to hazard a guess, I measured by ratio, not by weight.

I think burlap mesh might be good, for thicker casts. It won't stop it from breaking, but it will keep the structure together so it doesn't fall apart.

@@Bluecho4 might be possible to make a stuff by running said burlap through a food processor or the light - just to get small fibers that mix into the plaster. The idea with the small fibers is they keep neighboring plaster bits together. I'm wondering if the fibers mixed in could help keep the plaster from scratching away so easily (with the paint on it) I don't have any molds or the like for plaster terrain or I'd try this myself, but the idea has my interest; maybe this could be what gets me to try it

@@nonamo5700 Trent from Miscast demonstrated in a video that textured food packaging can be used as free plaster molds for terrain. It's from him I learned you can use burlap mesh to potentially strengthen the cast.

​@@Bluecho4 Might try that then As for the burlap and fiber; I'm thinking more loose fibers, unwoven like in a stucco rather than burlap which acts like rebar in cement. It'd be mixed throughout the plaster as a component; and I see no reason why you couldn't use both fiber and burlap for (possible) scratch and break resistance. To bring it back to my analogy to cement; this'd then be like glass fiber reinforced cement with rebar for it's structure. Also as an aside, glass fiber is probably overkill for plaster. As I understand it, glass fiber is used in cement because it doesn't interfere with the chemical process that occurs when portland cement is curing/drying. Burlap and twine fiber is likely fine for plaster