You can also adjust the grid tolerance in Siril as well. I think it would be very difficult to do extraction on each sub rather than the final stacked image.

@@Astroimagery I do it all the time in Bortle 8/9 and there is almost no gradient left in the stack.

That's amazing @robj144 - care to explain how did you manage to do this? It would be helpful to share with beginners how this is possible. Yes, me too very little or no gradient after stacking.

yes that's correct, but you still need to create the flats. There are various ways to do this as you rightly point out. Good luck would love to know how it goes.

An electronic focuser could be another video that I will make but I will need to try it out myself and buy one then I can explain everything. Good idea and valuable advice thanks!

I’ve made two Bahtinov masks on my 3d printer, one fits the lens hood on my Nikon and a large one fits my Celestron Nexstar 9.25

Fair point that. I will try to be more specific in future. I generally use the description for details though.

That's a fair comment I suppose @WYOPYRO but I have also talked about free image editing that can be done in software such as Siril and Gimp can be substituted for Photoshop mostly. It is simply the way I do it and I felt that more needed to be put out there about the continued use of Photoshop despite the mass transfer that seems to have occurred to Pixinsight. I hope that you don't judge me on one video. Check the others. I have much more to come very soon!

Photoshop is like $240/yr if you're not pirating. If you can't afford $80 in software astro isn't your hobby bud.

@@jaracgos I have an old copy of Photoshop. Don't have to pay shit. Piss off ass hat.

Astrophotography isn't cheap @WYOPYRO, but there are plenty of free options such as Siril or Gimp. I'm just showing what I use, currently Photoshop. I am lucky enough to have free access to Adobe products through my work, but I agree software can be expensive.

@@jaracgos absolutely correct. Software makes life easier and is worth the money in my opinion. No way around it.

Hope you’ve sorted it out now and that my video help you. Any questions for me?

Thanks for this 👍.

@@AstronurdYou’re welcome!

That's impressive indeed @glaurung666. Could I ask how much did that cost approximately and are you still using this setup? I'd love to see some of your images.

well you could get a simple as-alt mount but having done that I would recommend starting with an eq mount. once you get used to it it’s the best for Astro. Get a popular one with a good reputation such as the Skywatcher HEQ5. I love the mount I have CEM26 from ioptron

Exactly @glaurung666, I have a friend into visual astronomy but I can’t understand why he prefers that to astrophotography which reveals so many details.. Keep watching,

Hi, thanks for your question. I prefer to do stretching manually, the arcsin stretch is very good as I explained. I only use the autostretch in Siril to see what the image looks like or to perform background extraction and colour calibration. Have you tried to do star removal in Siril? I haven't yet tried it.

you are right. It is much easier than Deep Sky Stacker. I also did a lot of testing with different stacking programs and the best image quality came from Siril. I also advise you to try the processing in the software it is a big plus. Good luck let me know how you get on!

@GamerGimador- did you stack many shots of the Milky Way or did you only take one shot? I just posted a new video about using Sequator free software to stack Milky Way photos. You might find it helpful. Let me know how your photo turns out.

@@Astroimagery I tried the Sequator still not yielding results (that I expect) after processing. I’m still new to astrophotography, therefore I’m just having fun learning. Your video on Sequator is good. Thank you for sharing it.

If you have any questions for me I would be glad to try and help you.

Thank you Keith. Yes we all began at the start point and had to learn hard to get where we are today. That's why I'm trying to help those wanting to start astrophotography.

You want me to send you the stacked image? I can do that if you give me your email address

Thanks so much. What did you like about the video?

@@KopLamp ok thanks for the info. I will look into that

@@Astroimagery the manual says: “Technically, when the input files are in FITS format, there is no need to convert them. However, you may want to do so so that the files are renamed to create a sequence and can be processed in Siril. In order not to fill the hard disk unnecessarily, it is then possible to choose the option Symbolic link. This option creates a symbolic link for the FITS files instead of copying them. This option is therefore only available when the output files are FITS images.” From your video I think I saw you had different files (DSLR)

Hi, yes my computer is a Lenovo Yoga 520 laptop which is about 3 or 4 years old now. I increased the RAM to 16GB and the hard drive to SSD. It was only 4MB ram when I bought it and discovered that programs like Photoshop and other astro programs need at least 8GB RAM so that might be your problem. What computer do you have and how much RAM?

Sure thing. More is coming! First the basic videos will foloow then more advanced stuff...Where are you in Spain?

@@Astroimagery South, ALmerimar

Thanks for the question! I have tried using scripts but find I don't really need to use them. I prefer to do these things manually for the most part. If I can find the imaged object in the Photometric colour calibration I use that - it is afaster and gives good results. There is no advantage to use the manual colour calibration that I know of. Do you have any other questions?

I'm glad you found the explanation helpful! If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!

What version photoshop app?

@@ActiveMiow I have Adobe CC and the version of Photoshop I am using is 23.5.5

@@Astroimagery ok thanks

When you save the image from siril, is the data visible or do you make it come forward using photoshop? Thank you

@@Fatimah-ig3bq Not sure if I understand exactly but I save my image and then continue in Photoshop opening the saved image there. Does that answer your question?