Hi, I'm really pleased that the video helped you. I don't know if the issue could be tracked down to just one capacitor but once you've gone to the trouble of stripping it down to get to the right board it's no great hardship to replace them all. Well done for having a go at it. Thanks for the feedback!! It's always nice for any KZbin video maker to know that what they are doing is actually helping folks. I hope that you get a good few more years out of the equipment. Kind regards . . . . Andy

Hi, I think that you are asking, "Is there a book about fixing headphones?" We'', I really don't know, but hopefully you can find most of the answers you need on the web. The thing is have a go! Use your eyes and think about every move that you make, work carefully. You won't get it right every time, but if you never try to fix something you'll never do anything. You should be able to buy old headphones reasonably cheaply, particularly if the don't work.

Hi, I guess that if you are having to adjust the hinge so frequently maybe you need to lock up the fixing bolt a bit tighter that you are doing now? (maybe the end of the bolt has become burnished and smooth and simply not holding. But regarding is there anything better? Well I should think any adjustable door hinge would be better than these blessed things. You've probably got three hinges on the door. You could take the middle hinge off and take it to a double glazing outfit and see if they something that would be a direct replacement. If you do take it off you will be able to measure it accurately and maybe get something on line. Since adjusting my hinges the door has stayed good. Good luck. Kind regards . . . Andy

Thank you for the interest. Isn't it wonderful that theses old radios co still work after all of these years. I'm sure they stir many memorise. Kind regards . . .Andy

Thank you, I hope that you are able to fix the amplifier. It's a pity to think that so many old pieces of equipment will have been discarded simply because folks don't know how to do a simple repair job like this. I can't recall just how many times I've done it, but it always works rely well. Kind regards and good luck . . . . Andy

Hi Thanks for the feedback. . . . . Andy ... GW0JXM 73

@@AndyDaviesByTheSea Your very Welcome 73.... Cant wait to see more Radio from your channel

Hi, sorry but I don't have that information to hand right now but I'm sure that you will find a huge amount of information about this set as it was a very famous piece of equipment and loved by collectors. Good Luck. Kind regards . . . . Andy

@AndyDaviesByTheSea Thank you very much, please.

Hey, that's great. I'm really pleased to have been able to help you and so many other folks. It had me scratching my head for a while. Thanks for the feedback, it's always nice to see how the video is helping people. Kind regards . . . Andy

Thank you. Kind regards . . . . Andy

Hi Kathy, I've never tried it, cutting straight lines on flat glass has always been easy. Cutting bottles however can be very tricky. The key to good cutting of glass is sufficient pressure to get the cutting wheel to actually 'did into" the glass surface. When you get it right you'll hear a satisfying crunch/grinding sound. If that crunching sound stops and starts as you move the glass cutter down the line, then you're not doing it right. If you practice you'll get good at it. Put a little oil, any oil, even olive oil or sunflower oil on the cutting wheel, it really does make a difference, it oils the little bearing in the wheel and it maty do something the cutting zone that helps, although I suspect it can't do much to the glass. Good luck, let me know how you get on. Kind regards . . . Andy

@AndyDaviesByTheSea thank you for that and I will let you know. Most mirror cutting I've seen so far has the mirror being scored and then they snap it. I need exact edges

@@kathypridham4417 Hi Kathy sorry about the delayed response. Your right, most cutting involves scratching the glass and then bending the glass to open up the scratch. I don't know what or how many bits of glass that you want but it's not unusual to cut glass with a diamond saw. or you can cut the glass and use a special stone to rub down the edges and even polish the glass along the cut line. again, not knowing what you want, it could be easier to simply find a supplier who will supply cut and polished mirror to your specification. (probably not cheap !!££$$£££!!) Good Luck Regards . . . Andy

@@AndyDaviesByTheSea Hi there, I am working on trying to get a supplier. What I ultimately want is strips of mirror for making my Kaleidoscopes so they can't have any uneven edges or you see it once it's all assembled.

@@kathypridham4417 Hi again Kathy, have you looked for narrow mirror tiles?? (wall tiles) I've just had a look and there are all sorts of mirror strips and little mirror tiles available, there are some mirror strips that look as if they might have a sticky back. They could be soft plastic. Check out mosaic tiles. I under stand your visible ragged edge issue, but reasonably you only need one perfect edge where the glass touches, so could you buy the narrowest mirror that you can get and simply cut strips off the side and using the 'Good edges' where you need them and simply throw the rest away?? ( or making glitter balls out of them?) Could you paint a straight black line down the outer edges that are rough cut so that you don't see them??? Regards . . . Andy

Well done on staying with it and fixing the door. I turn to KZbin for for help on all sorts of things and and it's great to know that I'm giving something back that helps others. Thanks for the feedback, without it I'd never know how it helps folks. Kind regards . . . . Andy

Thanks for the feedback. Kind regards . . . Andy

Glad to have been of help. Thanks for the feedback. Kind regards . . . Andy

Thanks for the feedback. If you look at the comments everyone is positive, even professionals have trouble coming to terms with the fact that there's no height adjustment screw! Just a 'height locking' screw. All the best . . . Andy

Hi as I guess you know you always use a bit of water in the barrel, not a lot but maybe half a cupful or a little more. The end caps of this barrel fit snugly enough so as not to leak, but once I drilled a hole in the middle that of course is somewhere for water to get out. Because the water gets churned about the endcaps get thoroughly wetted, as the barrel turns so the water runs everywhere in the chamber it will find anyways out if it can. Out of interest I did try running it with my little brass screw removed to see what would happen and after a few minutes a couple of drips escaped, not a lot, but it could only get worse. The other thing is, if you add a little liquid soap just one or two drops. when you run the system the bubbles get pushed out of the hole. it's as if the bubbles increase the internal pressure, just a little bit. I did think that a long plastic bolt reaching half way into the barrel (with a 1mm hole down it) would be enough to stop water coming out but when you run it you soon realise that it'll still get out, it just takes a little longer. (Remember the water splashes everywhere in the chamber.) Thanks for your interest. Kind regards . . . Andy

@@AndyDaviesByTheSea All understood Andy, I see the problem. RE your latest video about the steel shot rusting, I have used car antifreeze in a 'spirit' level I made - curved tube and steel ball bearing in a fluid for damping - and the antifreeze has caused no rusting at all after several years. (not sure of the water content of the antifreeze). I have no idea whether the ethylene glycol might have some bad effect on the items you are polishing mind you ! Just brainstorming here... Cheers, Dave. (also in Wales)

@@noakeswalker Hi Dave OK on the antifreeze, but I don't think that I'll be going down that route. It's always good to hear 'other ideas' as you never know what offbeat idea is going to trigger good things. As for sprit levels, I wanted a highly accurate level so I took the glass bulb out of the middle a a three foot level, I replaced it with my own homemade bulb. I melted one end of a clear Bic biro pen to seal it. I filled the pen case to within about an inch of the top with purple methylated spirit and then, with a gas torch I melted the top of the tube to heat seal it off. A bit of the meths burns off but not enough to be a problem. So now I have a spirit filled tube that's about 4 inches long with a bubble in it. I made a bracket to fit onto the long level that I could adjust very accurately. The bracket has a flat top the length of the tube, each end of the tube is clamped down to the bracket but under the middle of the tube I put a 0.25mm thick strip of metal. This has the effect of very slightly bending the middle of the tube up in a gentle curve. It took a long time to calibrate as it takes several seconds for the bubble to settle and you have to keep swapping end for end. But man it is accurate!! You can detect the thickness of a piece of paper over a three foot length. I was going to replace the biro tube with a glass tube but the reality is the biro is still as good as when I made it some 10 or 15 years ago! I'm trying to stay on track with jewellery on this channel otherwise I'd make a video about it. (I'm just wondering now if I did actually make a video at the time?? I've got the memory of a goldfish these days.) All the best . . . Andy

Wow, I've never seen, or heard, of a thermometer with such graduations as you mention. I guess that, like the mercury barometer they will still be working with the original accuracy in a couple of hundred years time. How on earth would anyone calibrate such a thing to 1/100 of a degree, let alone 1/1,000 of a degree?? Or maybe after a couple of hundred years the glass would have changed shape enough to render it inaccurate?? I'll try not to worry too much about that issue. All the very best . . . Andy

Hi, yes it would be a good idea to pop the desiccant in the oven on a low heat with the shot. I keep a load of the desiccant bags in the airing cupboard, but if someone only has one or two then it would certainly help to dry them off along with the shot. I didn't say in the video to let the shot cool down a bit before putting it back into a plastic container. (I hope folks have the sense to not melt their containers) All the best . . . Andy

Hi Andy J, well I'm glad I've been able to help you. Hopefully KZbin will keep this video live to help others for a long time. It would be good to think that after I'm dead and gone some of my videos could still be helping folks. I'm not planning on leaving this mortal coil just yet but remember anything that you put on the web could be around for a long time. Thanks for the feedback, it's always nice to know that the effort is helping folks. Kind Regards . . . Andy D

Hi, the cutter that I use in the video is one from a fancy 'stained glass' glass supplier. It has a cutting oil holder built into the handle. but you DON'T need that. Any old tungsten wheel cutter will do! Really, if you use it right, any old cutter will work! If you've got a fancy cutter and it's not working, the chances are that you're not doing something right. Things to remember. Press really hard, you should hear the wheel cutting into the glass and you should see a good clean, deep scratch/cut into the glass. The cut line/scratch should be continuous. If there are gaps in the line it won't cut properly. if there are gaps go over it again but try to avoid going over a good cut too much as the takes the edge of the cutting wheel. If there is a stray end of the cut line running off at an angle, because you have failed to join the ends of the cut together, it will fail. Let the combination of hot and cold water do the final bit. don't hit the glass but make sure that you give the glass long enough to heat through. Good luck. let me know how you get on. Don't forget, you won't win every single time, sometimes it goes wrong, I don't know why, but that's life! Kind regards . . . Andy

I can't imagine why anyone would come up with design like this. All the best . . . Andy

Thanks, it's great to know that it's helpful. Regards . . . Andy

Thanks, all the best . . . Andy

Yes, good idea! I didn't know what you meant at first, but I take it that you mean is, measure how far the air vent bolt, (or as you call it, "the fastener") goes in and then drill a hole sideways through to the tapped hole for the bolt in the plastic plug in such a position that this new hole is blanked off when the air vent bolt is screwed in fully. Thereby meaning I only have to turn the air vent bolt a few times to let air in/out. well done! Why didn't I think of that! In my defence I was thinking the longer the thread on the vent bolt the less likely it would be to leak. But I will do it. Kind regards . . . Andy

Not quite, the mirror was at about 120 feet above sea level and the camera was at about thirty or forty feet above sea level. But you can bee sure that the light beam was pretty straight. But having said that gravity can bend light a little. (don't ask how much, you'll have to look that up) All the best. . . Andy

Thanks for that regards . . .Andy

Hi, ok on the warranty!! It’s good to meet someone who thinks like me. One of my original thoughts was, ’can I use a tyre valve.’ It would be push fit into a simple hole?’ But I dismissed it as I really want the pressure on the outside not the inside. In other words, the valve would be facing the wrong way. But I like your idea of using the cap, I didn’t think of that. I did look in Halfords at bicycle innertubes but that gets messy. It’s often easy to slip into a complicated design, you can make anything, but usually the more elegant designs are very simplistic. All the best . . .Andy

@@AndyDaviesByTheSea Car tyre valve is generally very cheap, often you get them slightly used in reasonable condition, at least for this application, for free at any tyre fitment centre, complete with the cap, and of course you do not need the core at all.

You're too kind. But, thanks for the interest. All the best . . . Andy

@@AndyDaviesByTheSea Peace brother. Have a Happy Fathers day id you celebrate the day Sir. Peace v

Hi there, thanks for the interest and comment. Kind regards . . . Andy